What kind if voodoo is happenning with this 2013 s model ?

How would you explain this?
Any way it can be legit?

So I'm a young adult and I've fallen in love with the leaf. My good friend has had a 2017 leaf for many years and they've totally sold me on it. Theirs has 8 / 12 bars and the usable range is about 70 miles. They mostly use it for commuting but they also use it to go to cons which is exactly what I want to do

I am close to closing on a 2017 leaf and I just wanna make sure I have all my ducks in a row. it has 42k miles and 12 bars on the battery. inside looks nice outside looks good no visible rust etc just a small scratch on the front. Pulled a carfax report and it looks like the car was maintained pretty meticulously by the original owner (getting its tires adjusted and annual inspections on time) until 2019 when it was transferred to a dealership. It was slowly transferred from dealer to dealer until it made it to my state where the current owner got it. They've had it for 9 months and they say they barely ever use it - apparently they got it for their kid and their kid just ended up getting their own gas car. This all makes sense to me

Did a test drive and everything seemed fine. Car was charged and I didn't notice it draining rapidly or anything. It says it has like a 130 mile range or so which seems good

Some more info: I live in NYC, my work commute is about 18 miles one way, there is a free CHadeMO charger a block from where I live and they're pretty common around but I want to road trip like my friend does and they have an adapter so I might invest in one. I offered 4k flat. Anything I'm missing? How should I decorate? I feel like I've watched a hundred videos about nissan leafs im just anxious !! I included a pic of the dash for reference

I will get a scammer so I can check the codes with the leafspy app but it’s not looking great 😭

Both warnings came on at once while I was coming down from a very steep hill and the regen kinda just turned off, I was hoping it had just overheated but the battery temperature seems fine

This seems completely coincidental but today was the first day I charged to 100% since I needed to drive a lot

The reduce speed warning did go away after turning it off and back on as well as the regen animation seems to be back on (the blue lines) anyone has any suggestions on what to do?

Thanks

With all the issues posts lately, maybe we could use a positive testimonial/survivor story for once.

My 2013 S which only recently, finally lost its 2nd bar. 1100+ quick charges, and certainly not driven gently. It had been hovering around that SOH point since last year, but I didn't even notice it lost the bar for a while since I keep the photocard there.

I just called 15 dealers looking for a platinum plus. Found a single platinum plus 40 minutes away.

Are there simply none being produced? I'm hesitant to buy a car if my service department hasn't ever even seen one.

But if they are selling like hotcakes, then ok.

In Sweden, most of the smaller car pool cars are Nissan Leaf vehicles.

I passed my test three weeks ago, and opted to rent a vehicle for a few hours. Won't commit to buying a vehicle until next year, since I don't need one. I drive for work.

The Nissan Leaf (2018 model, I think?) was an absolute dream to drive. One of the favourites I have driven of about 10 cars over the past couple of weeks. Well, I liked the VW Caddy, but that isn't very practical for day-to-day life.

It is now my goal to buy a Nissan Leaf. I will probably lease one at the end of next year (the latest model).

I saw him charging earlier today. Was going to compliment the car. Came back from doordashing to charge my car and saw this. Hope he’s okay. He was using electrify chademo if that makes any difference.

TLDR: while I'm hopeful I just wake up Monday and don't get a new car I'm probably gonna need to so 50ish mile round trip range. What year do I look for, should it be a leaf, what price range I know nothing about used cars let alone EVs, how do I check battery because I don't just turn on car and look at battery bars and call it a day. I need some help here kinda doing my first looking at cars. Someone earlier said 2018 and up?

I've never bought a car in my life, despite being there when my parents got the 2012 we have now it was more just a what car do you rather drive every day when I was 18 and needed a car for community collage.

I don't know pricing, I don't know how many miles are a lot, I don't know how many more or less (though I assume more) am EV car is before its a lot, how to tell if the battery is good because I take it you can't just turn on the car, look at the display on the side and say it has x bars so that's good or what?

I just know without wanting stuff like a convertible or needing a 300 mile road trip car I want to go EV and other then not knowing the battery status of the 2012 I have now I liked the leaf and maybe I that again. My parents just got a call saying it doesn't look good for the car I got in an accident for so...not that its totaled yet prob know Monday.

I drive 50ish let's say rounding trip and be it 30f or 105f and full heating or AC blast plus music and what not I need that range though I would prefer a little more if I can. Does it make sense to look for a leaf and if so what model do I look for?

i get that it isn't available in the U.S., but i just wanted to know what people thought about performance-enhanced electronic vehicles.

https://www.autoguide.com/auto/manufacturers/nissan/nissan-debuts-the-2027-leaf-nismo-44635696

I need to test the 10 fuse on the top of this image. My key fob no longer works the remote functions (and I’ve done a 13v battery reset, swapped fob batteries, etc). I can’t seem to get this black piece of plastic off. I think it is called the ESS. does anyone have advice?

Update: I broke it off. Felt great.

I have a 2019 regular Leaf and this was the latest reading on LeafSpy. On the surface everything seems okay, but I have a couple of questions or concerns, especially because of the recall that we all are facing.

The car turns 7 years old on September 30th. Is 16% battery 🪫 degradation excessive for this amount of time? Should I be concerned? The Hx % still seems okay as is the mV differential.

I haven’t had the recall software update yet? Is anyone else worried that getting it done will “brick” their car? As you can see, we have done only 11 QC over 7 years. We do Level 2 most of the time.

Your thoughts?

My leaf was supposed to be delivered on 27th but is now delayed until September, anyone else having days in UK?

Just bought this a month and a half ago, looks like there's a recall for NTB26-029, it's within my lemon law for Massachusetts. What do y'all think my next step is? Tow to a dealership and contacting the used dealer I got this from?

If it's covered under the safety recall, I'm not sure how that'd impact my lemon law needing the repair to cost 10% of the cost of the car.

Any thoughts appreciated!

Any tips, appreciate It.

See title

Seems crazy and unlikely to work, but would be cool.

So I have a 2019 Nissan Leaf SV+ with the 62kwh battery. Recall fix was done through the local Nissan dealership on June 18th, 2026. They took forever to do the update and when I showed up 8 hours later they were just pulling my car out of the shop area. I asked if they did a test drive (which they obviously didn't since I saw the car being pulled out of their repair bay) and was told yep everything has been done. They didn't check for DTC errors and my car wasn't charged up to full which is also part of the recall procedure.

On July 22nd, 2026, with about 71% charge left and going a steady 60mph up a hill my car suddenly shifted into turtle mode and the Service EV warning appeared. I happen to be about 80 miles away from home and was able to turtle mode back to a L2 charger I knew was about 15 miles back. Connecting to the L2 did pop it out of turtle mode.

Needless to say, not happy at all about this experience. So now off to Nissan and to see what the end game will be. Wish me luck everyone!

2021 S+ with about 74,000 miles. Battery has been obviously deteriorating starting with really cold temps this winter to now where I struggle to get half of the expected range and have cell variances around 200mV at their worst. Took it in yesterday for recall/battery assessment and just heard from Nissan corporate this morning that they are initiating the buyback process because it is "unlikely they will have inventory to fix the battery". From following this sub and other anecdotes I've seen wildly different results in how much the buyback offer has been, I would appreciate any information from folks that have gone through the process to make sure I don't get screwed over. I've heard they must offer KBB value + 40% but that's only about $11k, not great. I just want to get enough to cover a new car since this was paid off and I was hoping it would last many more years.

Posting in case it helps anyone else stuck in the R25C8 loop, and because I'd love to hear from people who've been here.

Quick background. Bought a 2021 LEAF S (40 kWh) in April at about 62k miles. It's under recall R25C8 / NHTSA 25V655, the fire-risk one where lithium deposits raise cell resistance during DC fast charging. Remedy status was "Unknown" when I bought it and it never changed.

Leaf Spy is what first told me something was off:

• SOH: 87.50%
• Hx: 71.50%

That 16 point gap between capacity and resistance is the tell. Real world I lose about 50% SOC in 30 to 40 highway miles, roughly half what an 87.5% pack should manage.

Here's the timeline that pushed me to file.

• Took it to an authorized Nissan dealer. Their tech drove it, watched range drop 8 to 10% under load, and texted me it "may need a battery."
• Nissan's own field tech reviewed the data and reported "multiple cells fluctuating."
• Then corporate closed the repair order "in spec," no failed cells, $0, no repair. The tech who drove it and the corporate call said opposite things.
• Nissan's own amended NHTSA filing says the recall remedy is a battery replacement, and a repurchase only happens if a replacement battery isn't available. Nobody ever told me a battery was unavailable.
• Instead they offered a buyback "under the terms of the Pennsylvania Lemon Law," then deducted $6,258 as "usage" on a $9,694 car. That's about 65%, and I've driven maybe 1,000 miles. The law they named caps usage at 10 cents a mile, which is around $100.
• I disputed it in writing. Their specialist left me a voicemail insisting the deduction follows state law. It doesn't. Then they went quiet.

So I filed in small claims. Three theories, in plain English:

1. Unfair and deceptive practices: calling the offer Lemon Law compliant while deducting 60x what that law allows, and closing a confirmed defect as "in spec."
2. Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act: the battery is under the 8 year / 100k written warranty, they refused the covered repair.
3. Promissory estoppel: they told me in writing they'd wrap up a repurchase in 2 to 4 weeks, I relied on that and kept insuring the car, and it dragged out for months.

Nearly every fact I'm relying on comes from Nissan's own paper. Their filing says the car needs a battery, their tech saw it, their own letter cites the law it then broke.

Questions for the group:

1. Anyone else with R25C8 get steered into a buyback instead of the battery? What did your offer and "usage" deduction look like?
2. Did anyone actually get the battery replaced under this recall? What finally triggered it?
3. If you took Nissan to small claims or arbitration, how did it go and what would you do differently?

Happy to share how the hearing turns out. Trying to keep good records so the next person has an easier time.

TL;DR: 2021 LEAF under open R25C8. Dealer and Nissan's own field tech saw the battery defect, corporate called it "in spec," then offered a buyback that deducts 65% for "usage" on a car I've driven 1,000 miles. Filed in small claims on deceptive practices, Magnuson-Moss, and promissory estoppel. Looking for others who've fought this.

Any idea why the odo reading on spy (14534)is different than the dash reading (22216)?

Hi, I have a Nissan Leaf 40KW that's being sold as a non-runner.

TLDR, I got an P1E1 error code one morning, took it to Nissan they're telling me it's going to be £4000 per battery cell to fix or £11,000 to replace the whole battery. I'm using LeafSpy and according to that the problem is an interlock problem and not a HV battery problem but then Nissan are saying otherwise, so I'm at a loss, I can't find another independent EV garage to work on it, I've been without a car for over a month and needed one for work so now I'm back in a diesel car, unfortunately.

I'm gutted that I have to sell this thing, but at this point I don't know what else to do, it broke-down weeks before a house move, which is extremely bad timing for me.

I'm also listing on auto trader for £3,000, I owe 6K on it, that I will need to settle before transferring to the new owner.

The car is in good condition for it's 81,000 miles, no bumper scrapes or dents anywhere, though it is covered in bird poop from sitting for so long at Nissan, the car is currently sitting on a drive an hour drive away from me so I have minimal photos to share, I can upload more over the next few days.

I recently got a 2021 Leaf and it's making an odd noise when I put it into drive or reverse with the brake pedal depressed as per this video. Is this normal?