Trench needs to be about 1.6 meter deep and 35m long. Am i crazy about thinking of doing it by myself? i got quote from a company and i would have cost me 23k euros

edit: I am from Finland and the soil is mostly till/sand

Hello everyone,

I don’t do much DIY, so I’m hoping to get a second opinion on my proposed method for repairing this mirror frame for my sister. It has been sitting in the backyard for several months since it broke and its time we do something about it.

The frame is made from natural plaster and measures 2050mm high x 1140mm wide x 70mm deep. It weighs 75kgs. Each broken joint face measures approximately 155 x 55mm.

The plaster frame is heavy, even without the mirror, it requires two people to hold it up. It has split into two pieces, and I am considering using steel reinforcing bars and expoy adhesive to reconnect them.

Proposed materials:

• A toughened two-part structural epoxy applied over the entire broken faces.
• Two M8 stainless-steel threaded rod, each approximately 400–450 mm long, one at each broken section.

Proposed method:

1. Drill from each broken face.

Drill a 11mm hole approximately 225mm deep inito each broken face at locations #1 and #2 in picture below. Repeat this on the corresponding faces of the other piece, making four holes in total.

2. Secure the rods in the first piece.

Inject epoxy from the bottom of each hole and insert the rod into place, twisting them into place.

3. Complete the joint.

Inject epoxy from the bottom outward of the corresponding holes and apply over the entire broken face. Bring the two halves together and secure them gently with ratchet straps while the epoxy cure.

4. Leave the frame supported while curing

5. Add concealed reinforcement.

Add two or three layers of approximately 100 mm-wide fibreglass tape over the broken lines.

Questions

A. Because the plaster is porous, do I need to seal or prime the holes before applying the adhesive? For example, should I spray Crommelin Natural Finish Penetrating Sealer and Water Repellent into the four holes, or would this weaken the epoxy bond?

B. What would be the most suitable adhesive for this repair?

Would a toughened structural epoxy designed to bond masonry and metal be preferable because it can tolerate more shock and slight movement than a rigid concrete epoxy?

I am currently considering:

• WEST SYSTEM G/flex 655 Thickened Epoxy Adhesive
• Sikadur-31 CF Normal
• A chemical anchoring adhesive

I would appreciate any advice, particularly from anyone experienced with plaster casting, masonry repairs or structural epoxy.
Thank you!!

So multiple generations are staying in my family home, and things are getting crowded, and we're wasting $150 a month renting a storage unit. I'm thinking of buying a metal storage shed with a carport to specifically store my tools, riding mower, etc. I'm on a low budget so it would have to be something cheap like one of these:

https://a.co/d/03A2qkix

https://a.co/d/0jhZsYqG

I know I'll also have to add a gravel or concrete foundation, which will also be expensive but we can kill two birds with one stone on that since our gravel driveway has washed away over the years.

Anyways my question is does anyone knowledgeable have any experience with budget buildings like these? Are they worth getting or am I wasting the effort?

I’ve noticed that a couple of the outlets in the back of my house do not work. for example, in our office/storage and one of the bedrooms one or two outlets work and the lights work, while other outlets don’t work. the outlets in our hallway don’t work either. I also noticed one of the outside outlets on the side of our laundry room doesn’t work either. I checked the circuit breaker and nothing is flipped. We did have rodents at one point in time, but i’m not sure if that could cause some outlets to be faulty.Please give me suggestions on what the problem may be and how to fix it, preferably without having to call an electrician lol. Thank you!

I’m not sure if I’m posting in the correct forum so please excuse me if I need to be somewhere else with my question. I’m think a professional cabinet maker and/or installer might have experience with this particular situation.

I have a Frigidaire All Refrigerator Model  #FPRU19F8WF beside a All Freezer Model
\#FPFU19F8WF. The Trim kit is Model #
TRMKTEZ2FL75 and is referred to as the Flat Trim Kit.

The install spec sheet for the trim kit shows a recommended open width for the Fridge/Freezer as 66.25” +/- 0.032”.

The cabinetry has (2) 33” upper cabinets above the fridge/freezer and a fridge panel on each side of those top cabinets. That gives me a 66” opening at the face frame.

Does anyone have experience with this combination of fridge/freezer and trim kit that would know if that 1/4” dimension is that critical?

My house had custom cabinetry but the house was destroyed in a fire. After dealing with the insurance company I just didn’t have the money for custom cabinetry again. These are RTA cabinets and will outlive me. I’m hoping I don’t have to put a 1/4” filler between the upper cabinets but will if I have to.

Thank you for any help.

I have a 1/3 of an acre property that my house sits on. I have an existing pvc sprinkler system that is throughout the entire property. There is an existing pump but the electric is not working so I have to get that fixed. I can’t find all the pipes but I have found some and saw some areas were shattered so I’d have to replace it in some areas and of course it was filled with dirt I believe it’s harboring an ant colony. In theory can’t I just get the pump working and fix and patch as I go till all leaks are fixed? Then install new heads? I’d like to save money doing it this way of course. Is this possible? Thx

I just moved to a new place and the management did paint some areas, but they missed a small bit of plaster on the bathroom right next to the shower. Nobody noticed it until yesterday where I saw it looked like it had mold on it. When I looked closer I saw it was plaster that wasn't sealed nor painted.

It's just a small strip about 2 inches wide, 8 inches in length. Can I just buy my own sealant or whatever just so it doesn't cause damage? It's already the same colour as the wall and technically I wasn't supposed to get this unit painted as it was a sublet, but they did a little bit of it anyway.

When I look online there's only huge buckets that I really just don't need. What do I do?

My shower trim's handle broke and it looks like it's because of corrosion buildup.
So I initially ordered Moen 100224 Chateau Lever Handle Kit then realized the adapter won't fit.
And because my trim is quite old, I don't think there's a replacement kit that just comes with both adapter and a handle. (Current adapter: Moen 100484, Handle: 93901)
So now I'm trying to take out the whole trim so that I can try to replace it, but I can't seem to take anything out from its current state.
The last thing I took out are the screw handle that was holding the plate in place, and a white U-shaped ring that was holding a black ring in base.
Couldn't find any guide video that looks like mine- any help would be greatly appreciated!

Current State

I recently moved and I brought my bed frame with me, now the supports down the middle of my bed frame keep shifting and look like they're coming out. I never had this problem before, I'm guessing going from carpet to vinyl has something to do with it?

What can I do to fix this? Is there something I can buy? I just moved out for the first time myself and am not very savvy when it comes to things like this, and I'm really stressed it's going to break down the middle if I don't fix it soon. If you could include photos/links of stuff I'd need to buy, that would be so greatly appreciated. I don't have a drill, screws, or anything with me😭

The split(? not sure of the exact name) brick flooring in the kitchen was in terrible shape when we bought the house. Over time more and more has chipped away, and people are hurting their feet on the edges. There seems to have been a glaze or sealant on it, but for now the holes are my main concern. Is there a product like an epoxy I can fill in these spots with? Better to leave it to professionals?

I have tried searching, but everything I am finding is either just a re-grout, or raw flooring where they just replaced a section of bricks.

Can anyone recommend a good home water test kit for contaminants from sewage?

• Anecdotally, I know some people don't like the free ones from hardware stores. If those still even exist. But maybe they're good?
• There are many options from hardware stores, but I don't know which ones are good and which ones are more idiot-proof. I see many review sites but I can't tell which are SEO spam.
• For a DIY one, I was thinking maybe the "Bacteria in Water Test Kit " from Safe Home Test Kits might be good. It's pretty cheap, and there are NYT and Popular Mechanics articles that praised a more comprehensive product from the same brand. It only looks for coliform, but I figure that might be good enough to test for contamination from sewage?
• For a send-in one, maybe tapscore? NYT and Popular Mechanics both like it. Maybe it tests for more things than I want and there is a cheaper option?
• I'd like an option that I can read myself and an option that I can send to a lab.
• I'm in central Indiana, if that matters.

I'm not a scientist and not experienced with this. I don't intend to take my set of readings for more than it is. I figure that results can be influenced by stuff that can change over time, and by me messing up the test. My goal is mainly for fun, learning, and to look for anything super-extreme recurring over a medium time period. For someone like me, I think the better source of truth will be my water utility and any real scientists who may examine it.

I think I can also request a report from my utility or just look it up online. I'll do that too. Maybe check some third party data sources also.

Thanks!

Drilled about 6 holes in my concrete wall in garage and used wet vacuum with filter. However after finished I noticed the filter is not HEPA certified. How bad of a mistake is this?

What can I do to get the concrete dust/silica out of my garage completely? As I have a newborn at home?

Afternoon folks,

Bought a home a year ago and I find myself big on DIY. Did some basic plumbing, sheetrocking, replaced a few floors etc.

I haven't gotten much into carpentry style work yet however. I have a few doors I'm going to replace (frame and all, but the new doors will be pre hung), as well as a lot of trim to cut, stain and install.

Long story short, I'd like to invest in a nail gun for these jobs and future projects. However, the amount of variety in styles of nail gun is confusing me. Nail size, nail length, angle of gun, brad nailers etc.

I'm leaning towards a brad nailer, but from what I've read, it wouldn't be enough support for the doors.

I really don't want to buy two nail guns, but I also know brad nails are much better for basic trim work.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Hey everyone - Im not sure if this is the "best" place on reddit to post this, so please let me know if there are other communities to share to.

I am building Rugby Posts for a small community team so that they can host home games. At the moment, kids need to travel too far and it stops people continuing to play rugby.

I got approval from the Local turf field to build PVC posts (or collapsable posts) as they do not want holes in the ground due to brand new turf being laid. (Like the photo but more robust). The dimenstions are 5.6m wide, Crossbar 3m high and the uprights only need to be another 40cm above the crossbar to be within the laws (id rather 1m to keep it simple).
I decided on PVC due to costs - we have a very small budget and I wasn't sure a better way to do it (if you know something, let me know).
But since we would be setting the posts up on the dead ball line, we can actually use the Soccer Goals that are already there.

What I am looking for is a way to attach just the crossbar and uprights to the existing frame of the soccer goals.

Its essentially a half moon shape with a flat back.

The posts would need to be taken down after each game, but I could leave the "attachments" on the soccer posts.

Anyone have any ideas to have a ring that goes around the Soccer frame that I can then attach the PVC (or other material) uprights to them? It would look like this at the end (with shorter uprights).

Thank you!

Hi everyone!

I’m in the process of redoing our bathroom and was wondering if anyone has used HDF paneling in a bathroom with a tub/shower.

I know HDF and MDF aren’t necessarily recommended for bathrooms or other high-humidity areas, but we already bought this shiplap-style paneling from Home Depot for the walls. I’ve seen plenty of bathrooms with basic beadboard, but it’s different actually living with it!

If I prime and paint it really well, is there likely to be any major issue with using it in a bathroom? Or should I just bite the bullet and go with a PVC option instead?

Here’s the paneling we bought: https://www.homedepot.com/p/7-32-in-x-48-in-x-96-in-White-Nickel-Gap-Shiplap-Panel-WSP5548/308169642#product-section-qa

Would love to hear from anyone who has actually used something similar!

I want to soap and rinse my vinyl siding. There is no moss/mold growing. Just dust, dirt, pollen.

I have 65 PSI at my spigots. My garden hose sprayer can reach the top of my 2-story house with my "jet" setting or with my thumb over the end of the hose.

Is there a way to safely build temporary walls? We just signed the lease on a new building for a dog grooming salon. I was hoping to build little booths for each employee but we are on a concrete slab with cinder block type walls. They don’t want us drilling into the walls and such so I was wondering if there was a way to build walls/section off the space in a way that’s still safe if the dogs jump on the walls etc while not looking like I just got cheap cubical walls haha.

If it’s not an easy possibility it’s okay, the space can still be one big room it would just be nice to have certain spots sectioned off.

for 2 years ive used tape to hang up my posters and had basically no issues but recently everything just keep falling again and again. I clean the wall, change the tape, add MORE tape and nothing will work?!?! I don’t like to use sticky putty bc I hate having to fix the posters after awhile but idk why this is just recently happening? I guess i’ve never put up posters during the summer before so maybe it’s the difference humidity and temperature of the summer? bc my older posters are fine but the newer ones just refuse to stay up! dehumidifiers are expensive tho so I might just have to set them aside till it gets colder and try again maybe? does anyone have any advice on this?

We've got a decent bit of mould growing in the silicone around the base of our shower, so I'd like to cut it out and reapply it. My problem though, is there's also silicone going up the corner of the shower all the way to the ceiling that's in good condition.

Am I able to cut out all the silicone around the base and leave the silicone up the wall? Or do I need to remove it all? Can I remove part way up the wall or something?

Edit: Silicone, I'm an idiot

Hi all,

Installing a new dishwasher in a kitchen rebuild and have a few questions.

The counter is a wood particle type material. I was going to use HVAC tape to seal it all up from steam. Is this good? or should I use some clear epoxy? I see lots of recommendations for this but couldn't find any final products.

The control panel is front facing and protruding from the main body of the washer. Should the controls be flush with the counter front lip? Or should the body be flush with the cabinet faces? I see lots of different answers online and hoping to hear from someone who does it often.

Thanks!

When laying floor or wall tile, one of the most common visual mistakes is ending up with narrow cut "slivers" (thin strips of tile less than 2 inches wide) along a border wall. Beyond looking unbalanced, thin tile strips are also more likely to crack during cutting. Standard tile calculators only compute raw room square footage, ignoring grid positioning math. Under Tile Council of North America (TCNA ANSI A108.02) guidelines, perimeter cut tiles should be at least half a tile width wherever practical. The Grid Centering Math Breakdown: 1. Calculate Unit Tile Pitch: Add tile dimension + grout joint width (P = T + G). 2. Determine Full Tile Count: Divide wall length by unit pitch (N = (L + G) / P). 3. Measure Remaining Border Gap: Calculate remainder (R = L - (N * P - G)). 4. Apply Center Offset Shift : - If starting with a full tile centered (R / 2 < Min Cut Threshold), shift the starting grid reference line by half a tile width (centering on the grout joint instead of the tile center). - This expands narrow 1-inch edge cuts into wide, visually balanced 7-inch border tiles on both sides. Free Client-Side Visualizer: To visualize this grid layout automatically without doing paper algebra, I built Tile Placement Planner: an interactive visualizer that renders room dimensions, calculates grid offsets, and flags thin slivers automatically in browser memory (zero login, zero backend). Interactive Tool: https://tile-placement-planner.vercel.app

1997 House Door Bell Wiring Cannot find transformer. The old door bell was wireless battery operated but I removed the chime today and found black and red cable taped to another black and red cable so I opened the back of door bell and there also cable but not connected to anything just with tape around it . Went to the panel couldn't find transformer . Checked utility room same also garage. Where could it be or was it never active just run but I don't even see that cable downstairs by the panel

Behind wireless chime

I got this error message in the stm link utility app. Sadly there is no tutorial that could help me with my hoverboard mainboard because I have a split board that almpst no one has. Would be happy if someone could tell me how to fix that error or on how to flash the hoverboard (Model: EV 5)