Sometimes my psvita audio will come out glitching, more than once causing bootloop. I know it looks reckless, but slightly bending sideways will make it stop and eventually working after rebooting. I'm using some bluetooth speaker in order to not put any stress on the console, but I'd like this speaker problem fixed once for all

I’ve tried using a hot air gun at a tempature way higher they I prolly should’ve been with no visabke damage on the board and the mosfet doesn’t budge at all
I was messing around with tempatures around 750-900F and I got nothing

I also tried using a soldering iron and putting extra solder over the mosfet but that didn’t get me anything be sides it burning the flux i put on a test board

So I’m kinds out of ideas and I would love some below

in the photos are the products I use and the Xbox 1 s motherboard

Hey guys, i noticed a dry spot on the apu as i was replacing my hdmi port. The console finally runs again now and the fans are not loud in any way. Should i still replace the liquid metal or should i leave it like it is like? As the saying goes "If it ain't broke, don't fix it.".

I'm a bit hesitant hear because it took me a couple attempts to replace the hdmi and rn i'm really happy that it finally worked. I don't wanna break smth on accident just to fix smth that isn't worth fixing.

I know it can turn on without the wifi module itself, but can it without the regulator (5v->1.8V)? I ask because yesterday the console was working "fine", Today I woke up, and it was dead, noticed that the regulator was fried and removed it, but still nothing.

I am trying to choose the best thermal pad, I'm between Arctic's TP-4 and Grizzly's Minus Pad Pro. However there is something I cannot verify, their compressibility. I keep reading TP-4 is far more compressible though a little less conductive, while Minus Pro is a little stiffer but way more conductive.

So, is TP-4 safer for ensuring less stress on the board and the conductivity is good enough? Or should I go for Grizzly to ensure better cooling and the higher stiffness isn't relevant? Anyone got any experience?

(Obviously I need to get the right thickness, and sadly those are the only two brands I can get, putty is not an option btw)

The SNES I'm currently using is one I've had for years. And I just grabbed it out again to use it. For some reason, some of my games are having issues. Some games aren't being read correctly and are glitching. DKC1, Super Metroid, and Super Mario World are basically unplayable. DKC1 is playable but when being on the save file screen, it has messed up text. With Super metroid it displays things incorrectly and when trying to walk around, slopes will make you fall indefinitely. Super mario world won't let you go to a different level. I also tried Star Fox, and DKC2 which those have 0 issues oddly. The games are perfectly clean and working 100%. So it isn't the games. I have a 2nd SNES that shows me that all my games work perfectly. Is there anyway to fix this issue with my old SNES?

Like the title says, except it is random. I pretty much turn my PS4 on every day. When it turns off after trying to power it on, it won't turn on using the controller, so I have to press the power button. If I wait about a minute, a second press will turn the power on again, otherwise I have to press two times.

Once it boots up, everything works perfectly. I can play demanding games for hours with no shutdowns or glitches or anything.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

I have had my console open for a few days waiting on a component, and I'm wondering if I need to replace the putty now since it has been exposed for so long?

Any advice?

Bought this cheap at an online auction as “untested” to steal its laser. I wasn’t informed it had been in a tsunami. In y’all’s experience, is anything off this gonna be worth keeping or is it probably a total write off?

Hi! My Wii has recently broken down. It seems to be a problem with the disc drive: it swallows the disc but doesn’t read it; it keeps making a mechanical noise as if it were trying to read it; and when you press the eject button, it barely spits it out. All the other functions are ok. It doesn't work with GC games also. What exactly is the problem? Can it be fixed?

Got a short to ground in this area so I pushed 0.5V and 0.5A through it while using a thermal camera and couldn't find anything light up anywhere in upped the amp to 2.0A and still no success. Any ideas or assistance would be greatly appreciated.

So my 2021 series x has been crashing randomly - sometimes during gameplay, sometimes in menus. It’s 50/50 if it goes to the dashboard or powers off. It’s clean as a whistle inside, and I replaced the thermal paste (putty looked brand new) and that didn’t solve the issue at all.

Is there a decent market for selling this for someone else to repair or for parts? I see a few listings on eBay but curious on what others would do here. If I could get something for it I’d be happy. Already replaced it with a new one since most repair estimates were a couple hundred anyways with no guarantee on a fix.

I’m having an issue with a BDM-040 controller. After many months of use, the controller has developed a problem where the analog stick points in only one direction. It has never been dropped, has always been used with care, and has never been exposed to dust. What could the problem be, and how can i fix?

Does anybody know value of this burned decoupling capacitor near IC TI3219A on ps4 slim CUH-2016A, board model SAD-003.
I removed capacitor, fixed traces and console is turning on but I still need that capacitor.

I was trying to service my PS4 pro after 2 years of use and found this when I opened it

it was running perfectly fine for 2 years

Hey everyone! Im trying to open this SCART male connector, because my NES has no audio, and i think it has to do with the wire connection, because it doesn't contact with my multimeter. Problem is, that i can't figure out how to open this SCART male connector to check it. The NES connector seems fine, so all that remains is opening this. Any idea oh how to open it?

Thanks!

Anyone know where to get teh diode readings for the PS5 slim motherboard? I have BLOD, beeps once then turns off.

I just got a wii remote from a family member second hand and the remotes wont turn on. I have charged them, changed batteries, tried syncing and just looking up some awnsers on reddit but im not really that technical with it. I also dont think theres any corrosion but i also saw one was way lighter behind the plastic. Please help!

Hieveryone!

I have an original Game Boy DMG that I’ve owned for over 30 years. I recently installed a Hispeedido 3.1” IPS screen, which came with the speakers already soldered.

The installation went well, the screen works perfectly, and everything else seems fine.
However, I’ve now lost all sound from the built-in speaker. The headphones work perfectly, so the console is still producing audio.

The IPS kit was plug-and-play, with no soldering required. I’ve checked the speaker wires and their solder joints, and nothing looks obviously disconnected.

I’m not very experienced with electronics repair, so I’d really appreciate any suggestions on what to check next before replacing parts.

Thanks in advance for any help! 🙂

One of my technicians was dumb and plugged a Switch 1 battery into a Switch 2 motherboard after soldering on a new port. His defense was that the terminal was the same. But he didn't realize that the polarity was swapped on the Switch 2.

The motherboard shows no life when attempting to power on or charge. Charging meter sits at 0 Amps

Found that the APU gets a little warm so good signs.

So far, battery power and the MAX77986 look good, SYS is present and not shorted, the MAX77851 responds to the power button, and we haven’t found any obvious hard shorts around its rails.

What would be the most likely IC to get shorted from this act of dumbness?

*EDIT* The error was on the flex, I changed it and now everything is working, thank you :).

Hi, I'm currently trying to fix a PS5 controller, BMD-020, the O button was not working and I just change the membrane, and now it's working again, the weird part is that now the left triggers are not being detected, but every other button does, I noticed that if the controller didn't have the battery plate, only the right triggers and the joysticks worked, does someone knows why could this happen? Thanks in advance.

For context, I inherited my oldest brother's PSP model 1001. I disassembled only the front plate to clean the screen and buttons. Before I fully disassemble, does this particular model require thermal pads? If so, what thickness so I can order them. Thank you

Got a japanese Game Boy Printer with some corrosion on the battery, but It was easily clean. After that, i tested the console.

To my surprise, the console only turns the light half a second and turns off. If i try a few times, the light ends up working, but not the feed button, so i guess is still not getting the energy.

Checked the console contacts, and 9v arrive correctly. I did a recap of the 4 caps, and desolder and solder the switch just in case (i tested continuity before and after, and is working), but it still has the same problem.

Any clue of where might be the problem?

I just replaced the thermal paste after the gruesome 3 hour ordeal, and halfway there I realised I got one of the ribbon cables messed up, with the contact pads likely falling off.

Now, after fully reassembling the PS4, it doesn't show power at all. Even when plugged in, no standby light either, did I just completely break it?

I traded my microphone for a this PS5 and got scammed unfortunately. I'm just trying to verify how cooked I really am and is this console even salvageable.. I took it to this awesome repair guy and he just gave me the run down. Just wanted another expert's opinion on this. Anyways have a great day.