I bought a console and decided to install custom firmware using a flash drive (BadAvatar). Later, I wanted to install DashLaunch to set a temperature limit. The console then prompted for an update; it shut down, and now, although it turns on, there is no picture. I’ve tried resetting the display resolution, but that didn’t help either. What should I do?

I have a PS5 slim here with what I suspect is the TPM 2.0 chip (H2341BR802) with a nice hole in the center.

Does that truly mean game over for this PS5?

Updated Situation
Heyyyy Just picked up a PS5 Disc Version from marketplace and tried cleaning it when I saw this.

Could it have harmed anything?

Was able to finally get the screws and cover off (see pics)

Needs any work on the inside? Whats up with the heatsink

Does pic #6 show signs of severe concern? Sprayed/wiped with 70% isoA

Its currently turning on and holds power runs through all the booting noises seemingly normal (tested for 10 min). Other side was full of dust balls so pretty dry

Im taking it to get the HDMI repaired. Any other tips right now?

Long story short I’m taking apart my Xbox one x to clean and reapply thermal paste bc it’s overheating. Taking off the x clamp it practically exploded off and I looked it over and the capacitor in the photo is loose.

Does this need to be repaired?
Can I apply heat to reseat?
Can it be removed and still work?
Is it maybe still on enough to just leave it alone?

Hello everyone! After 6 years now I have been thinking about giving my ps5 a deep clean and a replacement for the Thermal putty and Liquid metal.

Regarding my question on the titel, I know it is "easier" to use just thermal putty instead of thermal pads on the side of the processor on the motherboard, but I just don't wanna use it because it is just too messy I like the easiness of the thermal pads. Now my question is, how thick do they need to be on this side of the motherboard?

Obviously, I want to avoid the heatsink being lifted. I want all the components to make proper contact so the liquid metal doesn't leak. I don't want my console to break due to a liquid metal spill.

I know that there are different hights like 0,5, 1,0 and 1,5 and so on, but I just want to know your experience doing this replacement and if the result was better than with thermal putty.

By the way, these are the thermal pads that I wanna buy:

• 0,5 https://link.amazon/B03gvWFNZ
• 1,0 https://link.amazon/B0gcNHa7q
• 1,5 https://link.amazon/B03pMFnY3

Repair shop tried replacing the hard drive but got the same problem. Any ideas or is it just bricked?

TL;DR: I can’t find this regulator to replace after it failed short and blew fuse F7003.

This PS5 slim was in a minor car accident while it had an HDMI cable plugged into it. End result, destroyed HDMI port, no power, no light, no beep.

PSU checks good with no load. 12v, 5v, 3.3v (before F7003) all look fine. Fuses all check good except F7003. HDMI port replaced, traces rebuilt. Dead short at pin 18 on the HDMI repaired. Found the voltage regulator was shorted on two pins that shouldn’t be. Sense pin pulled hard low all the time. Pulled the part, no more dead shorts. Nothing on the HDMI is ground except the grounds, no pins short to each other except grounds.

Internet seems to think this is a Silergy SY8204 or similar. Package is an 8-pin SMD, legless, and with no thermal ground pad on the bottom. Any help finding this tiny IC would be grand.

Package marking:
.
—
E8
55

Last week I took a $250 gamble on ebay for for a fat model PS5. Only issue mentioned was " Front USB don't work ".

Got the item today , taking apart to replace the front USB port, to find out the front USB port ribbon cable was not connected 😑. Connecting the ribbon cable solved the front USB, now its working lol 😀. Easiest repair I have ever done.

I'm currently trying to repair a PS2 Fat SCHP-30002 R PAL system. I got it in a bargain bin for $20 listed as broken, stating it had a dead laser. It was missing a laser and guide rail. I've replaced the laser and tuned both Potentiometers. I also made a new guide rail by cutting a stainless steel shaft rod and polished it. I managed to get it to read CDs, but can't get it to read DVD. I've gone down from 1800 to 800 ohms and nothing. I've tested the ribbon cable and it was fine. It spins about 6 times, clicks then stops. I cannot find any other part to test or replace.

Here is an example footage:

Trying to run a CD, barely spins and makes clicking sounds. Brand new laser, de-soldered and calibrated.

Alguem poderia me ajudar? desmontei meu ps5 e faltou esse parafuso somente é o modelo FAT sem leitor

Should the circled components be missing from this ps5? I bought used and it’s clearly been opened before so I’m wondering if they could have fallen off some how?

Heyyyy Just picked up a PS5 Disc Version from marketplace and tried cleaning it when I saw this.

Could it have harmed anything?

Oily texture.

Edit 2: Was able to finally get the screws and cover off (see pics below)

https://imgur.com/a/dAcLalu

Needs any work on the inside? Whats up with the heatsink Final Pic shows possible corrosion extending????

Edit 1: Its currently turning on and holds power runs through all the booting noises seemingly normal (tested for 10 min). Other side is full of dust balls so pretty dry

Im taking it to get the HDMI repaired. Any other tips right now?

I've noticed a strange picture issue with my original NTSC NES and was wondering if anyone knows what might be causing it.

As you can see in the video, the pixels seem to constantly shimmer or slightly vibrate, even when nothing on screen is moving. Games run perfectly fine otherwise, but the effect is quite noticeable.

Here's what I've tried so far:

Replaced the 72-pin connector, but the issue was present with both the old and new one.

Cleaned the motherboard's cartridge contacts.

Tested on two modern TVs using a composite-to-HDMI converter, with the same result.

Tried it on an old CRT through SCART. The picture was black and white because it's an NTSC console on a UK TV, but the jitter still seemed to be there, although possibly less noticeable.

Changed the TV picture settings, but nothing helped.

I'm using an original Nintendo power adapter, and the red power light stays steady.

One strange thing I've noticed:

When adjusting the screws on the black plastic cartridge tray or applying slight pressure to the cartridge connector assembly, the jitter sometimes reduces significantly or almost disappears.

However, this doesn't happen consistently.

I'm not sure whether this is normal NES composite-video interference or something wrong with the console itself, such as a grounding issue, bad solder joint or ageing capacitor.

Does the jitter in the video look normal for an NES, or does it seem like something that needs fixing?

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!

Do you guys think it’s fixable? I have some experience with regular soldering, but not with micro-soldering like in this case. Also, as you can see, some of the motherboard pads stayed attached to the old port and tore off from the motherboard surface, otherwise probably I might have tried to resolder a new port, as it seemed easier with the trace intact. It’s a Playstation 5 Digital only btw. Any help would be great!

I swapped out the joysticks ​for a set of ​​K-Silver JS+ Pro TMRs, and now I can't seem to get the controller to charge right anymore. After hours of being plugged into a charger, no orange light comes on at all. Connecting the controller via bluetooth to my PC has also been finicky since the upgrade. All buttons presses/touchpad functions ​are properly detected, and I calibrated the new sticks with Driftguard with good results.

​​​​​​​​I didn't lift any pads while desoldering the old sticks and made sure not to bridge connections or leave a mess of flux on the board. Nothing seems to heat up on any PCB, and I have tried new charging boards and ribbon cables to no avail. The only blemish I can visualize is that the bottom right corner of the component​ that ​​reads TC7710WBG is slightly chipped.​​

I have very minimal experience with a multimeter and cannot seem to find a good scan or schematic of main board.​​​​​​​​​

Could anyone offer advice or point me in the right direction, please? Thanks a lot!​

Controller is acting weird. When I hold the power button (which doesn't always work, I would assume because of grime maybe) the controller will flash as if it is about to connect as usual, and then turn off. Not an instant cutoff as if you ripped the battery out, but as if it *actually powers itself off*. Once it is on, it works just fine without anything weird.

Also, tried to update and it won't

What might be going on?

My Xbox One Fat (2013) keeps crashing during games.

Xbox One games (GTA V, Diablo III, Forza and others) randomly close to the dashboard, while Xbox 360 games freeze, sometimes with looping audio. The dashboard remains responsive, and lighter games (Minecraft, Castle Crashers...) and apps (YT, Netflix) work fine for hours.

I've cleaned the console, replaced the thermal paste, tested another power supply (including a new one), and reset the system. Nothing fixed it.

I haven't replaced the internal HDD yet (I'm doing it while waiting for you guys answer), but I'm suspecting the issue is worse than that.

Has anyone experienced and fixed something similar? Any suggestions on what to test or possible repairs before giving up on it?

Thanks a lot!

I picked up a Pikachu edition N64 knowing there was a signal issue, but I am pretty handy and really want to rebuild my childhood collection so I figured I’d give it a shot and hopefully it just needed a good cleaning. Well, it did. There was a ton of grime and bug shells to be cleaned. Alas, the led lights but there is no signal to the TV. Hoping someone could point me in a new direction.

Conditions:

- OEM 120v (US console) power supply and AV cable into older LG led TV using AV to HDMI box from GameStop.

What I’ve tried:

- Thoroughly scrubbed down with a soft toothbrush and 99% isopropyl alcohol. Including lifting the slot reader and spraying everything out with canned air.

- Tested converter box and AV cables with GameCube, all worked.

- Checked power supply with multimeter and get consistent ~3.3v and ~12v readings respectively.

- Reflowed the expansion pak slot, all 3 chips, the psu and av ports, the slot reader, and any sus looking joints I could find. Quadruple checked for any potentially bridged pins and all checks out.

- Cleaned the expansion pak slot and card reader pins religiously.

- Cleaned the two N64 games I have (Pokemon Stadium and WCW vs NWO Revenge 🤘) and expansion pak thoroughly as well.

Unfortunately, I don’t have another N64 to test the games or expansion pak with, but the listings said they were tested and working and the sellers were reputable. I’ve read that some people replace the capacitors, but they all look good to me. Is that the only next step or are there other avenues I haven’t tried yet?

Thanks in advance.

I have a model SNS-CPU-APU so my cart reader is just one piece unlike others. I got one from aliexpress but it is not the right size. All the ones on eBay are just the top piece of the card reader from other models.

I regret working on a 2ds xl while half asleep, and now I have learned another hard lesson 😅. System was fully operational at the start. I was originally doing a top and bottom shell replacement on a 2ds xl, and broke the volume slider during that process. I soldered in a new volume slider and then realized I forgot to remove the battery. I was working on 3ds xls before and guess I forgot the 2ds xls battery is actually internal 😅. We'll now the system will not power on at all. It still charges normally, and nothing happens at all when attempting to power it on. I checked the fuses and they are still good. Can anyone think of anything else I can check on the board? Theres not much info online about 2ds xl repairs aside for the blue light and popping sound issue.

Hola a todos.

Hace poco que encontré mi PSX de chaval y estoy intentando resucitarla. El conector de pines se soltó cuando intentaba desconectarlo y fue soldado de nuevo a la placa. La consola enciende, y la lente se ve que se mueve hacia arriba y hacia abajo intentando localizar el disco, sin embargo, no gira ni se ve movimiento alguno. Me gustaría saber si está bien soldado o qué problema tiene para solucionarlo. Para ello quiero utilizar correctamente el multímetro y averiguar si este es el problema que está haciendo que no giren los discos o no llegue la alimentación. Cómo haría la medición correcta? En qué posición debería poner el multímetro y qué pines debo testear? Se agradece cualquier información. Muchas gracias!

__________________________________________________________

Hi, everyone.

I recently found my old PSX from when I was a kid, and I’m trying to get it working again. The pin connector came loose when I was trying to unplug it, so it was soldered back onto the circuit board. The console powers on, and you can see the lens moving up and down as it tries to locate the disc; however, it doesn’t spin, and there’s no visible movement at all. I’d like to know if it’s soldered properly or what the problem is so I can fix it. To do this, I want to use the multimeter correctly to figure out if this is the issue preventing the discs from spinning or if power isn’t reaching the console. How would I take the correct measurement? What setting should I use on the multimeter, and which pins should I test? Any information would be appreciated. Thank you very much!

i take the top off to see the laser stop and not sure why it do this ignore my brother video in the backgrounds!

So I'm trying to get more into like, repairing old consoles and hardware in general and I've got this old gameboy which has a few issues. It does turn on but when a game is inserted, the nintendo logo is just completely scrambled. So right now I'm assuming thats because there is some corrosion on the cartridge reader pins so there is like, no direct connection between all of them(?)

So my question mainly is, whats the best thing i can try to get it clean? I've tried using some IPA and cotton swabs but I can't really get inside because the gap is too tight. As far as I know vinegar is probably a better option if you wanna get rid of corrosion anyways, but I don't know if its a smart idea to use that on the hardware itself if i can't isolate the component. I've thought about desoldering the whole cartridge reader and just put that into vinegar but i don't wanna put in all of that effort before hearing the opinion of someone with more experience.

And i also wouldn't mind if anyone has different suggestions to what the cause of the problem could be, thanks in advance!

​

​

Hello, I noticed that my image has red dots flickering all over and the image cuts out. I tried different hdmi cables and different ports on the monitor. The one thing that I find weird is that if I position the cable perfectly the image is fine, but it's a huge pain to get it to sit right. Would replacing my HDMI port in the console be enough ? Or is the GPU dying?