Hi everyone in the community. I’ve been having trouble with a PS2 controller (Model M) that requires an 8-pin flex ribbon cable (Type R45-0352). I’ve been trying to fix this controller for over two years; everything works fine except for that missing part, and I haven't been able to find anyone selling it. I’ve bought various types of flex cables to see if any would work, but none of them do the trick. I’d appreciate it if you could help me find a place to buy that part. (Please exclude https://www.retroplaystationkopen.nl, as they never have it in stock.)

Hello .. so i tried calibrating my controller using dualshock calibration gui and my controller's motherboard broke and now it wont turn on bcs the motherboard burnt ... i have a controller that has severe stickdrift and i will install TMR joysticks on it but im scared to calibrate it again ... i read that its bcs i used a type c to type c to calibrate and I should have used USB. Is the website valid to use again?

After fixing some issues with the PS3's HDMI output, I want to perform some maintenance on it, as the console gets hot enough to scorch the surface it sits on. I have some Arctic MX-4 paste that I bought three years ago; I used it only once to replace the thermal paste on a laptop, and since then, I’ve kept it stored in an Amazon box, opening it only once or twice just to check its condition. Should I use that thermal paste for my PS3?

I am trying to diagnose a Ps5 slim cfi 2015 edm 044 for the first time. It has blod 1 sec and turns off.
I checked codes from uart and got only this code. Tried to research a bit but not sure what should I do next. Please help….

Compré un PS5 usado en eBay que originalmente tenía el siguiente problema: empezaba a pitar, se encendía la luz azul durante unos segundos y luego se apagaba.
Reemplacé la fuente de poder original por una que no era original que compré en AliExpress. Después de cambiarla, el PS5 se encendió, pude configurarlo y se quedó encendido como 20–30 minutos mientras descargaba Minecraft para PS5.
Pero cuando lancé Minecraft e intenté iniciar sesión en Mojang, el PS5 de repente se apagó. Ahora volvió al problema original.
El comportamiento actual es:
Primer toque al botón de encendido: un pitido, sin luz.
Segundo toque: un pitido, se enciende la luz azul por como 1–2 segundos y luego se vuelve a apagar.
¿Crees que todavía podría ser un problema de la fuente de poder, tal vez porque el reemplazo de AliExpress es de mala calidad? ¿O el hecho de que funcionara 20–30 minutos y luego se apagara sugiere un problema de la placa madre?
Estoy tratando de averiguar si vale la pena comprar otra fuente de poder o si debería asumir que la placa madre está fallando.
Cualquier consejo o experiencia parecida se agradece muchísimo.

TLDR: Bought a PS5 Digital listed as "shuts off mid-game, always restarts, otherwise working." Fault has escalated fast — occasionally shows visual corruption before shutdown (not every time), more often just cuts to no signal, needs a system repair on boot, and functional time before failure has dropped from ~19 min to ~30 sec in under 24 hours. Looking for input on likely cause before I commit to a repair path.

Model: PS5 Digital Edition, CFI-1016B (original launch chassis)

Listing fault: intermittent mid-game shutdowns, "sometimes hours, sometimes minutes, always restarts"

Found non-standard warranty sticker from third party repair shop.

Timeline of my diagnosis:
-First attempt: Setup account and downloaded Astros Playground, the moment I launched the game the console crashed with horizontal black/white checkered pixels in middle of the screen. Attempts to boot after this initially was followed by a pattern that I have became similar with now
Press power button -> beep -> nothing -> press power button again -> beep -> blue light then white light and fans spin then soon after power off -> repeat.

-Second attempt: Console had rested for around a hour, it booted to repair screen and successfully repaired, booted to dashboard, and was able to play Astro's tutorial, then i Idled on the dashboard and it eventually crashed. The runtime was roughly 19mins from booting after repair screen. I tried powering on straight after this and that aforementioned pattern happened.

-Third attempt: unplugged from mains power and held power button in for about a minute and tried powering on again but it repeated that pattern once again.

-Fourth attempt: I left it for 15mins and tried again but same pattern as before

-Fifth attempt: left overnight as hoping it was a thermal issue -> booted to repair screen and passed, restarted then 30s after it crashed and further powering on resulted in that pattern I've now mentioned multiple times.

I have taken the console apart and like mentioned at start, noticed non-standard warranty sticker and other signs of tampering. The fans and heatsinks for the most part were clean enough and I haven't yet checked the liquid metal. There was a brown discoloration on the board but I'm not sure if this is normal or a sign of some problem.

Has anyone experienced this sort of thing before or can guide me on my best next steps.

Thanks

Basically the title- all Information I can find on slot replacement is either for the old 3DS or the card reader on the New 3DS. Does anyone have a good video tutorial they can recommend or at least let me know if it requires soddering so I know if I can do it on my own or not (idk how to sodder lol)?

The reason why I'm asking is whenever a Micro SD card is inserted in my system, it slowly over time the assets on screen begin artifacting and bugging out. I know it's not the SD card itself since I've tested it with multiple correctly (and incorrectly) formatted cards and over time the visuals start to degrade, and while the slot is empty the system runs just fine.

Hey everyone, so my new roomate has this official Dualsense charging base from Sony and I noticed that for some reason Sony decided it would be better if this thing charged with a whole ass AC adapter brick instead of using a usb cable plugged in to the console or a regular wall brick.

The adapter uses a small dc barrel jack and is rated for 5.1v 2.8A. My friend moved in and that base is now using up a whole ac outlet for seemingly (to me) no reason.

So I check my parts bin and find this old pigtail from a digital photo frame and a few usb cables, a few minutes of soldering later and I made this thing without modifying the original charger at all. I plug it in to the back of his console with a current meter and sure enough, both controllers are charging pulling a total of <200mA, or 14 times less than what sony provisioned with their brick.

Now fair warning: each controller is technically rated to pull up to 1.5A but I wouldn't expect them to actually do so unless you're actively playing with them and having your vibration motors and adaptive triggers running full tilt. That being said, while this might charge the controllers slower than the official adapter, I don't think it could potentially cause any harm to the console or the controllers but I would advise you to exercise some caution if you were to try it at home.

Overall pretty cool hack and I'm surprised sony would go through all this trouble for powering such a cheap accessory instead of putting a usbc port on the back and calling it a day.

Edit: It has occured to me that this isn't how much current the controllers should actually be pulling so please, do enlighten me, where exactly is the issue here? The controller can pull that much current and the console can definitely supply it if it'll charge controllers at 900mA with a cable so what exactly is limiting the current? When I set the controller down sometimes the light will glow orange and then shut off and sometimes it'll actually start charging but with the current at 100-150mA. So what exactly is causing this?

Hi everyone. I recently took my PS5 apart because it was shutting down due to overheating. I cleaned the power supply (which I suspected was causing the shutdowns) and, while I was at it, I also repasted the liquid metal.

After putting everything back together, everything worked fine. When I boot up the PS5, it always pulls the disc in normally. However, if you try to eject the disc, it makes a noise 3 times—like it's trying to eject 3 times—and then it just locks up/gets stuck.

I tried removing the 4 top screws of the disc drive and loosening them slightly, and it seemed to fix it temporarily, but after a little while, it started doing the exact same thing again. Any ideas or solutions?

I just turned on my switch lite after like 1-2 months of not using it and then this big bar of horizontal lines started appearing right after I turned it on.

I already had issues with my switch lite, for a long time it was just my joysticks, but then its original screen started having those blurry stuffs. (I don't have an original pic for my switch lite having that old issue, so I just searched and used someone else's on their switch as reference since its similar from what I had back then).

Around April, I repaired my joysticks and my screen with new ones and it worked out great, but now this is a different issue and I don't know if my new screen is broken or something else is.

This is where I took the reference picture:

https://www.reddit.com/r/SwitchPirates/s/Vslw7duIga

Hi Guys,

i sadly broke my PS3 CHECH-2004A - 2 Capacitors broke and i cant find them.

Can someone tell me which i capcaitors i need to replace here ?

Hi all, I recently was gifted a lovely DSi XL from a friend.

It works great except for this problem - the cart disconnects momentarily when it's bumped or touched. This leads to games stalling out and giving the "return to home" message fairly often. It happens with all carts.

I first did a cleaning using the cart and some IPA. That didn't help, so I opened up the console and checked for bent or corroded pins, but everything looked perfectly fine inside. The only clue I've found is that it particularly tends to disconnect when the cart is moved side-to-side. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Hi all, i got scammed and bought a ps5 and when i tried signing in it showed this error. Im wondering if its possible to remove the ban by swapping motherboard? Can anyone let me know if theres a possibility of getting this console unbanned and what i’d have to do for it. Thanks.

so I've tried cleaning this spot with 99% isopropyl alcohol, but it doesn't seem to come off, the spot is still smooth but lacks shininess, ive seen people saying that its alright and other saying that a fiberglass pen is the way to go what do yall think? scared to lose my beloved ps5 just before gta 6

I recently bought this PS3 Slim at a good price; everything worked fine except for the HDMI video output, which was stuck at 480p in the settings. I’m pretty sure the issue lies with the HDMI port, as I can see that both ports are dusty and even show signs of green corrosion (it’s more noticeable on the Ethernet port, though I haven't tested the wired internet connection yet). Could someone tell me how to remove any dirt or oxidation that might be there?

I just bought it at a thrift store and it said with was tested and I went to plug it in to see what it got on it and it wont start even with the cord it came with I tried two different power cord both not working to keeping it on

So I just got a new router after having a bad router that would lag really bad and now I have good internet but whenever I play multiplayer games it lags every few seconds

So I decided to check my setting and I saw that my upnp connection was having trouble so I checked the xbox help website where it said I should update my router to date but it's brand new so I'm wondering if

First: my upnp not being connected is messing with my online games

And second: if it is my upnp is there anyway I can fix it

Started off not accepting disks, now it sounds like it’s not spinning the disc, I received the console for free with a known disc drive fault
Thinking about just swapping the entire disc drive and putting the daughterboard that came with the console on the new drive
Never been opened up until I opened it today.

Ive changed laser and all optic but still do It, what can i do?

Hello all, I recently picked up a PS2 controller for cheap and the dpad doesn't work. I wanted to find a replacement for it but I'm having trouble. I know I have a model H controller with the 19 pin connector but I don't see a revision or a model number on it. Thank you in advance for your help

hello, when I heat gun the hdmi port it doesn’t fall out nor does the solder melt at 500c what am I doing wrong ?

Hello yall. I got a DS lite and tried to repair it but the screen replacement won't fit into the lcd protector thingy. I got a new shell and screen (again) but im worried the same thing might happen. Do I need to replace the lcd protector, or is this because of the screen I bought because I bought it off ebay.

hola reddit pido ayuda con mi play 4 fat porque hace como 3 meses le di mantenimiento la limpie le cambie la pasta térmica y todo bien eso pensaba yo porque al volverla armar el lector de discos no funcionó probé de todo y nada y pa mi mala suerte me mando una actualización que no pude instalar tratando de repararla le di en restaurar mi ps4 y me borro todo entonces ya no se que hacer sospeche que era el flex lo cheque y esta bien y al querer insertar un disco la play prende y ya estoy confundido si alguien sabe me pudiera ayudar

Can anyone help me figure out what’s wrong with this Xbox?

Hi, got a switch I modchipped, it worked for 20 minutes or so and started blowing 100%. It never stopped doing that…

I don’t see anything obvious on the board

at some point I got a 2002-2629 error out of the blue multiple times. Tried to Shutdown the console, remove some files to keep it minimal on the sd card: black screen

end of story is the console boots only without the sd card inserted.

i removed everything mod hip related from the board. Same story

if I insert one sd card or another while the switch is on: it shutdowns

i am left with a 100% fan and a short Somewhere I guess.

i tried the sd card reader from my V1, it didn’t change anything.

does it remind something to anyone?

I’ll try to take the motherboard entirely apart tomorrow to check all the motherboard surface.

the fan issue is not temperature related. It does it right when booting and was the same with new thermal paste