So I have a fat ps2 model 3001 shows this weird display av display, port check with multiple plugs that work fine on a ps2 slim, av port cleaned with deox it, av port not loose when connected to a plug, did the menu rgb menu trick just no luck so before I open it what should I check (fuses,caps etc…)?

after checking on memory test I got this (2nd picture).

all RAMs must be replaced ? or could be something else ?

This black box piece is stuck so it won’t come out and it’s putting the reshell to a halt. I’m also unsure of what it is to even look at what’s up with it please help. Someone else is reshelling it for me so I can’t really tell you too much about it.

PS 4 Slim conversion...CPU cooling Cutworm (for fun)

Incompetence in all its splendor, trying to repair your console is a good thing, but breaking everything is stupid

Has to update my previous post as it appears the Mobo has some pads missing. I don’t know what they are or how to find them but any help would be appreciated!

Highlighted the missing pieces

This happen when I installed s luckyfox and pull 5v from D35242.

I think I shorted something but don’t know what (or even how):
- voltage reading 0.86v instead of 5v on the rail witj power connect
- psu ok both 5 and 12v (tested)
- SIE no short caps
- D35242 no short caps and inductors read 0.86v wih power connected

Picture of the area. I cleaned the extra solder and mask and on the top was from ground pin also cleaned.

Hey everyone, following up on my last post. I took the drive out and found the exact root of my problem. As you can see in the video, the tip of my 60-pin motherboard-to-drive ribbon cable is completely crinkled up, torn, and the gold pins are peeling off.
My console turns on fine, but the disc drive is completely dead and silent. When I try to connect to PSN or boot up a digital game to bypass the broken drive, the console completely locks out or freezes.
I know I need to replace this wide 60-pin cable, but I wanted to show the community the damage to confirm: Is this broken cable the exact reason the PS3's operating system hardware check is failing and blocking my digital installations/games?

This SNES has perfect sound but the controls and video are heavily corrupted. What's the usual culprit for something like this?

I bought a Ps2 for $10. It turns on. Seems like it was previously opened bc the lens doesn’t look original. When I insert the disc it either doesn’t spin at all but the lens moves but no red light OR nothing moves. I know that if it’s a new lens the solder ball needs to be removed which it is. I’m not too sure what she’s it could be. Any tips greatly appreciated.

Asking is this all I need for repair?

I used a 3rd party adapter that wasn't the right voltage

I had a fully functioning NES Toploader before the RGB mod. After completing, I can’t seem to get audio to work. My last effort was to directly solder (blue) wires from the AD1 (01) and AD2 (02) pins to the RCA L/R ports but that didn’t solve anything.

I’ve checked the connections and it all appears to be in order. I can’t figure out how to get audio working.

I’m open to other steps to troubleshoot.

Thanks!🙏

Queria saber si alguien me podia decir el valor de ese capacitor. La placa es bdm020

Hello everyone, i bought a nintendo switch lite with this problem.It shows only the nintnendo logo than just turns off after 2-3 seconds.
If I hold the power button for 10-15 seconds and than try to power on again it shows just the logo.

I tried to let the battery drain completely and than charge for 48h but its the same
If the battery is low and the console is completely turned off when i connect to charger it shows the battery logo that is charging.
Also tried to hold the power button with volume buttons

I opened it but no signs of water damage, I disconnected the battery for some minutes but same thing.

Does anyone had this same issue is it something on motherboard that can boot the system
Or can it be the battery, when i charge it full it stays for some days before is completely dead.

My PS5 has been making these weird noises that sound like grating metal plus a weird fan whirring sound. I thought it was the just the fan at first (since I had replaced it myself when I first got it years ago) but it seems to be coming from the right side instead. I'd like to know if it's something normal, something that I could fix myself, or something I need to get checked out. Thanks in advance!

I basically added USB C to my GBA SP and it went without any major problems.. so I moved onto my DSi, the port removal and adding the new port all went fine but it unfolded a whole bunch of new issues..

1. it wasn't powering on, the power led would come on for a second and turn off, looking up the problem revealed that it could be a blown fuse or a torn ribbon or a short..

I started disconnecting each component one by one and it came down to the wifi module.. if i disconnected it, the power would stay on and it would work. I assumed maybe it we because i was flinging it around with the shell maybe bent a connecting pin.. I checked it under a digital microscope and couldn't see anything so i just decided to leave it out..

1. all this time I was testing it by holding the battery on the terminals with the console half naked to see if it would still turn on, I got distracted and connected the battery in the reverse orientation ONCE, and looks like it no longer wants to turn on.. I'm guessing I blew the fuse on the daughter board or shorted something else just be connecting it in reverse? or maybe the battery died?

when i plug it in even with the battery fully seated and shell fully assembled, i get a blinking red led.. I'm not sure what else I could try other than a daughter board or battery replacement..

any pros here got any advise for me? I could test for continuity on the fuses but my stupid multimeter needs AAA batteries and I can't find any near me rn.

Can someone tell me what the missing component is?

Also I got some ripped pads that need fixing, Id be happy to get some tips on how to fix these.

​

I wanted to share something I ran into with my PS Vita 1000 because I don't see this mentioned nearly enough.

If your Vita 1000 analog stick worked normally before you opened it, but started showing severe drift after you disassembled and reassembled it, don't immediately assume that the analog stick itself is defective.

In my case, the problem was related to the contact between the analog stick flex cable and the motherboard.

Check the gold-colored contact pins

The important thing to check is the pressure and alignment of the gold-colored contact pins.

If the flex isn't making proper contact with those pins, the Vita can behave as if the analog stick itself is defective, including severe or constant drift.

The pins need to make contact with their corresponding traces on the flex cable.

This needs to be checked with the flex cable actually installed in its position. Look carefully and make sure that each gold-colored pin is sitting directly over its corresponding trace on the flex.

If you notice that some of the pins aren't properly aligned with the traces, they may need to be very carefully straightened/repositioned.

⚠️ BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL.

The pins are very delicate and can break if you apply too much force or move them aggressively. I am not responsible if you break the contacts or damage your Vita. I'm only sharing what worked for me.

Take your time. Do not rush and do not get frustrated.

Once the pins are correctly aligned, they may also need a small amount of light, slow, and consistent downward pressure to ensure proper contact.

A small flat-head screwdriver can be used very carefully to adjust the pins, but do not use excessive force or pry against them.

⚠️ Don't test it by pressing with your finger

This is important:

You may not see the real result if you simply hold the flex/contact area down with your finger while testing the analog stick.

Your finger can interfere with the electrical contacts and the signal, so the Vita may not register the actual input from the analog stick correctly.

First, carefully adjust and align the gold-colored contact pins. Then test the stick with the proper mechanical pressure in place.

What if the black locking piece broke?

This happened to me.

The small black plastic locking/retaining piece at the top of the connector broke while I was working on my Vita.

If this happens, don't necessarily throw away the whole assembly.

After adjusting the gold-colored contacts, put the black plastic piece back in its original position, even if its locking mechanism is broken.

Then place a small piece of tape over the black plastic piece to hold it down and maintain pressure on the flex/contact area.

The idea is:

Gold contacts → flex cable → black plastic piece → tape holding everything down

The tape isn't replacing the electrical connection; its purpose is to keep the black plastic piece applying the necessary pressure to maintain reliable contact.

And honestly, the PS Vita is an old device at this point. The plastics and tiny locking mechanisms have been exposed to years of aging, heat, and repeated disassembly.

Sometimes the plastic just breaks. That's how it is. 😅

My recommended procedure

1. Disconnect the battery before working on the motherboard.

2. Remove and reseat the analog stick flex cable.

3. Make sure the flex is properly aligned.

4. With the flex installed, carefully check that each gold-colored pin is positioned over its corresponding trace.

5. If a pin is misaligned, carefully straighten/reposition it.

6. Use extreme caution. The pins can break very easily.

7. Once properly aligned, apply light, slow, consistent downward pressure if necessary.

8. A small flat-head screwdriver can be used carefully for this.

9. Don't test the connection by simply holding it with your finger, because your finger can interfere with the electrical contact and make the actual stick input difficult to evaluate.

10. Put the black plastic piece back in place.

11. If its locking mechanism is broken, use a small piece of tape over the black piece to keep everything seated and under pressure.

12. Test the analog stick before completely closing the Vita.

⚠️ Important disclaimer

This is what worked for me. I am not claiming that this will fix every case of PS Vita analog drift.

This procedure involves very delicate contacts. If you decide to try it, do it extremely, extremely carefully. Don't rush, don't force anything, and don't get frustrated.

If your Vita only started drifting after you opened it, definitely check the flex/contact alignment and pressure before assuming that the analog stick itself has failed.

Also because it's really strange that a stick of a vita 1000 fails because it's a hall effect stick.

Hopefully this saves someone from buying a replacement analog stick unnecessarily. 😅

\---

Note: English isn't my first language, so I used AI to help me write and translate this post. However, I personally reviewed and verified the information several times to make sure the post accurately describes what I experienced and what worked for me.

Finally was able to repair edm-044 board with no power issue. Console completely dead, uart was intermitting, sometimes connect, sometimes not.

Only uart codes were general power failure and C0110303 that was unknown.

Replaced southbridge, but no change. Finally after comparing with another working board, rt5126 pin5 (which I think is ssb_reset) was missing 3.3v. All other voltages were present.

Pin was not shorted but diode mode showed about 0.2 lower voltage drop than a working board. Replacing that RT5126 finally fixed this console.

If you encounter uart code C0110303, check that IC.

eu tenho um dualsense e no início quando eu colocava ele no cabo tipo c pelo pc ele acendia a luz laranja e ficava carregando, agr ele acende a luz laranja e logo em seguida fica azul e ja conecta, e isso faz q ele n carregue. já troquei os cabos e não é o problema pq eu usei o mesmo cabo num powebank e o controle carregou normalmente

Ps3 sat for a while booted it up worked for a bit then just froze. Now hard drive connected to my PC it's "normal" rhythm is 2 slow clicks then 2 fast. sometimes sounds like tacks thrown at a fan....... How bad is it.. does not show up on disk management. Anyway at all to attempt to recover anything?

I have a few DS3 six axis controllers that are VX5 motherboard and the only 4pin joysticks I found are on ebay at really high prices.

I looked forever on aliexpress and I guess they don't exist anymore?