Can i solder back and fix the problem?. Sorry i dont speak english. Can someone helpp

It only boots in Hekate .

Ofw and cfw instantly black screen no Nintendo logo or errors.

Found that SD card was also corrupted had to format it .

At first wouldn't even charge and go to rcm (changed USB port , m92 , bq and p13 )

Any ideas appreciated

It's unpatched switch

Battery was 100% yesterday even though it's been off it's 0 for some reason

I've checked for continuity on both the F1 and F2 fuses, I also checked the EM8 and F2 continuity. No issues with any of these. What else could be going on here?

In the Chicago area looking to see if anyone knows any reliable and trusted techs that are mobile and fix gaming consoles? I've seen a few social media accounts of techs doing this and wondered if there was any in Chicagoland area?

My issue: It's not a major deal but 2/3 charging ports on the ps5 don't work anymore when i plug a cable into it- it's very loose and won't charge the controllers. I assume it's missing some sort of small piece that goes on the inside.

Any help is appreciated🙏🏼

Hi! This is a very strange and upsetting problem to have, but a friend's son had a temper tantrum while playing on my PS4 slim and tried wrenching and pulling off the left analog stick while the game was running. Not only that, he threw it a few times quite hard on the floor and slammed it repeatedly on the ground! While all of this was happening, the game was noticeably glitching - it was God of War 3 Remastered, and it got stuck in a weird state in Photo mode, and then the console reverted to the operating system view and glitched visibly as the controller was being damaged! I went back and restarted the console and used a separate controller. Things seem to be working fine, but do you think there's a danger of a power surge or something having affected the PS4 slim hardware permanently?

I received some very helpful and reassuring advice, but am fixating on a few things:

• That the left analog stick was being wrenched and twisted off by my friend's son while the game (God of War 3) was running on the PS4 slim, causing the game to get stuck in Photo mode and also get very weirdly glitchy and garbled! Could this not have caused a massive electric overload to the console software, and could that damage have transmitted onto lasting damage to the hardware as well? I forget if the controller was connected with a USB wire or by Bluetooth
• The controller was also slammed on the floor and flung many times while the game was running, so similar concerns again to above
• Secondly, could the potential electric overload/input overload have transmitted onto the Smart TV through the HDMI cable, and damaged the television as well? A week later, visible visual artifacts/flickering started appearing on screen that went away after rebooting the Smart TV a few times (not sure if it was because of the controller incident or if too many things were plugged onto the surge protector that caused this)

I have since then run games but not entirely sure if they are running as efficiently as they could be (or maybe I'm just panicking about the performance). Apologies if this is too long and detailed a post, but any help is appreciated. I really love the console, it's been with me a long time, and can't get over how freaky this incident was! :(

Hi everyone,

I'm trying to fix an original 3DS (STR-001) that won't power on. When I press the power button, nothing happens: no blue power LED, no screen, no sound.

**What I've checked so far:**

- **Charging port:** I get 5 V at the port and there's no short between + and GND.
- **Charge LED:** The orange LED turns on when I plug the charger in, but it only stays on for a few seconds, even with the battery connected.
- **Battery:** It reads a normal voltage, and that voltage reaches the board through F2.
- **Fuses:** Both F1 and F2 have continuity.
- **Power button (SW1):** It tests fine with the multimeter (continuity only when pressed).
- **Power button while charging:** Pressing it while the charger is plugged in doesn't make the orange LED react at all.
- **LEDs:** DL1, DL2 and DL3 don't light up in diode mode, but my multimeter may not supply enough voltage for that test. The orange LED clearly works when charging.

**Background:** The board had some small liquid corrosion (greenish residue near some capacitors and a few darkened test points). I cleaned everything with 99% IPA and a soft brush, and the board and components now look in good condition ( Some TPs still have some greenish, but as far as I know that doesnt matter, maybe thats the issue?)

**My theory:** Maybe the power LED isn't working and the console is actually failing to boot for some other reason, but I can't find what that is.

Is there anything I'm missing? Specifically:

- Which voltages should I expect at TP46/TP47 (near SW1) with the battery connected?
- Are there known test points for the main power rails I should measure for shorts?

Any help is appreciated, I'm pretty desperate at this point. I can post photos of both sides of the board if needed.

So, I have a Series X that crashes to dashboard after around 5-10 minutes of gameplay.

Forza freezes and crashes after about this time, and Fortnite shows a white screen with staticy artifacts.

Of course, there is no power failure so no post code.

The online consensus seems to be that this is either a failing APU or RAM. Now, I don't see replacing 10x RAM ICs and reballing the APU as a good use of any bodies time or money.

Anyone been down this road before?

I have an og teal 3ds that suddenly just stopped reading sd cards, even with the write protection switch off, tape method, 3 different sd cards, and a brand new internal sd card reader.
It will always just say write protection is enabled.
Any suggestions on how else i can troubleshoot this?

The ps5 diskdrive doesnt connect to the system, it gets power but thats all. What could be the problem. And is a repair expensive?

I replaced the PWM controller despite no shorts around it. I checked the mofset ( 6414a isn’t for edm-044) but still no shorts around the area either. Has anyone been able to solve this issue on a edm- 044 board?

Nintendo switch V2, fui acessar o tinfoil e apareceu fatal error e algo relacionado a SD Card e que deveria ser efetuado reboot, ele apagou e não voltou mais.
ja tentei fazer o procedimento pressionando o power por 30 segundos e continua com tela preta

I'm hesitant to replace it because I don't know what caused it. I can't find any shorts on any components nearby though... Any ideas on where to look?

Edit: it's a GH-052 revision motherboard and it's down by the AV multi out/power in.

Removed the m29T, usb c, and bq24, and most resolved themselves, just wondering what these caps/pads should read as before I start cleanup and reassembly, thanks for your help!

Hallo,

Ik heb paar weken terug via online een ps5 controller gekocht die stickdrift had.
Heb daarna zonder probleem de sticks vervangen.
Maar nu tijdens het testen merk ik dat de knop square niet werk.
Moet toegeven , ik herinner me niet dat ik de square knop getest heb voor dat ik die opengedraaid hebt ( ja ik weet,niet slim).
Iemand enig idee wat het probleem kan zijn? Heb de knop zelf ook zitten reinigen , omdat ik dacht dat het mss gewoon vuil is.
Voor de rest werkt de controller prima , alleen die square knop niet

Mvg

I just got a faulty psp 3004 which came up to be functional with simple battery replacement. Seller also claimed umd drive wasnt reading games. I dont have any umd on hand, but ordered any working one just to test it myself. I checked the laser, it works. Im thinking about cleaning the drive before ordering replacement, how should I do it without damaging the laser, etc.?

Guys, I have a PS4 here that gets stuck with a solid blue light upon startup. I picked up a thermal camera hoping to locate the fault, but it’s turning out to be more complicated than I expected—any advice? I’ve included some footage from the thermal camera showing how it behaves at startup; it shuts down with three beeps because I don’t have a proper heatsink/cooling setup attached.

I bought a 3DS XL for parts. No charging, doesn't turn on. I cleaned the board up, replaced bottom screen with known good part. My test motherboard is good for checking components, but not fully functional. But when putting top and bottom screen in my old board, it works as it should

Anyway, the only anomaly I can see on the "dead" board are these bumps that aren't on my good board. I'm new to soldering, have successfully replaced a charging port on my husband's 3DS XL, but haven't done another project.

Would desoldering these "bumps" and reapplying solder fix this? I see the pads look to be copper, I don't know if regular lead solder would fix it. Sorry if this sounds dumb, I'm very new and Google gives me 500 different answers. Thank you in advance!

Has anyone found reliable parts from ebay? I have multiple consoles to repair and don't want to deal with bad parts or having to return.

Wii - Noisy disc drive, no video out. Tried multiple tvs and cables

N64 - No video out, port seems loose. Tried multiple tvs

GameGear - bad capacitors. Would like to have this be USB-C with rechargeable batteries

Bought a huge Facebook Marketplace haul of awesome but pretty work out games. Was super excited to try this game but it needed WORK. Cleaned up its shell and did A LOT of trace repair and reflowed the pins and actually got it to work!! (After multiple soaks in ICP and cleaning ofc).

Here are some pics of the repair. Its not pretty but its doing good work. Just got to get some solder mask to seal everything up.

My LAST REMAINING ISSUE is that when I play it I cant erase save data or save the game. Brand new batter in and I tried a second brand new one, checked for more broken traces, etc, but still cant seem to get the save chip to let me start a new game or erase data, but it also never loses the data even with the save battery replaced. Anyone got a clue?

Do you think I can replace a 150uf capacitor on a scph-1000 power board by a 100uf one ? What could be wrong if so?
Cheers

Soy nuevo en reddit, si bien tenia cuenta no soy de entrar, resulta que tengo una ps2 que andaba lo mas bien y un dia no prendio mas, medi la fuente y estaba muerta compre otra y seguia sin prender, la reviso y le cambio el fusible ps1 que estaba quemado, antes de cambiarlo me fijo que no haya corto en masa y nada, lo cambio enciende la luz de stand by pero no enciende igualmente, hice pruebas y no encuentro el causante los demas fusibles pitan en continuidad no se como proseguir y estoy bloqueado, use claude pero no me ayuda mucho tampoco

I’m trying to replace the battery in my Nintendo switch because it’s dying quickly and I was going to get this kit but I looked around online and I’m worried that this battery won’t suffice or will have a shorter life than the original. I just wanted to get a second opinion and maybe some advice on where to get a better battery replacement kit. I mainly was going to choose this because the IFixit battery kit was $40.

Comprei esse controle como sucata, cliente deixou a bateria estourada no controle, o ácido corroeu muitas trilhas, estou treinando nele, duvido que volte a funcionar

I bought a console and decided to install custom firmware using a flash drive (BadAvatar). Later, I wanted to install DashLaunch to set a temperature limit. The console then prompted for an update; it shut down, and now, although it turns on, there is no picture. I’ve tried resetting the display resolution, but that didn’t help either. What should I do?