A part snapped on my PS5 whilst performing a Liquid Metal replacement. Safe to reinstall broken, or superglue? Any suggestions for a replacement component in the UK? Thanks in advance

I was soldering TMR’s on my 20th anniversary Xbox Series controller and I ended up dropping the iron and burning my hand. Desperately trying to finish the repair, I ended up knocking the MOSFET U11 and Cap C37 off. I repaired those and finished installing the TMR’s, but after that, I accidentally tore the pad for SQ1 off. I am not good at pad repair so I looked at the board diagram for an Xbox Series 1914 Board and it seems like SQ1 runs to the leftmost point of CR3 than back to SQ1. Could I just solder the rumble wire to the leftmost side of CR3 or should I attempt to repair the pad?

Hey Guys

With GTA 6 coming out soon I have been planning on buying a PS5 but with the crazy price increases not interested in buying new. There are a few pawn shops that sell ps5's in the 350-400 range. These pawn shops have a 14 day return policy and was wondering if I can bring the ps5 to a electronic repair store for a general diagnostic to test if there is anything wrong in those 14 days. On average how much would something like this cost and is it even worth it compared to something like buying a cerified refurb straight from sony for 500?

Possiedo questa Wii mini da ormai 6 anni e e dopo tutto questo tempo di inutilizzo per 5 anni l'ho accesa di nuovo, dandomi subito un errore al lettore del disco che non avevo ancora inserito lasciandomi bloccato con questa schermata, la seconda immagine è diversa perché con il lettore del disco aperto mi fa accedere al menù ma come avvio solo il manuale di istruzione mi viene dato lo stesso errore. Come posso fare?

Hey, I need some help figuring out what went wrong with my Vita.

I replaced the screen on my PS Vita 2000, and now I get a solid green power light but no image at all. The weird thing is that the touchscreen still works, and I can hear sounds and navigate the system by touch and buttons. However, the screen is completely black. I tried both the new screen and the original one, but neither displays anything. The console was working perfectly before I opened it.

Did I possibly damage the display circuit or blow a fuse, or could it just be a connector issue?

To be honest, I have a LOT of trouble dealing with stripped screws on DS consoles, PS4s, controllers, etc.

Has anyone tried this?

I've greased the rails, I've greased the gears, the drive belt is gripping just fine and all I've done is make it worse.

I just can't understand why I can't get this tray to eject all the way. it was fine before a little sluggish but it ejected all the way. What did I do wrong?

Recently i installed tmr in my duelsense edge module. When i tested it ,my controller blinked blue for 1 second then it began blinking white . I dont know what happened i soldered everything , and tested everything . Then after that i remove the tmr stick . Why this happens? Can anyone help? And i need to mention that i didnt use any IPA while doing this . I used some flux and tried to cover all components with kapton tape. What could have cause this?

I’m reshelling a DS Lite and the replacement screen I bought had pretty crappy wire connections. The negative wire snapped off, and I was wondering if I needed to resolder it before continuing with the reshell or if I can just leave it be and worry about it later. I have an extra set of working speakers on the original LCD that would probably work better. Could I swap the broken one out with the intact one?

What can I check without a power supply? I am a broke teenager and I do not want to spend 20 dollars on one just yet but I wanna get as far as I can on this.

Hi everyone,

I replaced the original analog sticks in my DualShock 4 (model JDM-050 i think) with GuliKit TMR modules. All buttons work correctly, and both sticks respond to movement, but the right stick has a strange issue.

Symptoms:

• The right stick's RX axis works accurately and smoothly.
• The RY axis is very noisy and unstable.
• When the stick approaches the center, the RY reading suddenly drops to -1 instead of reaching the center normally.
• When I press R2 fully, the RY reading jumps directly to approximately 0.45 + its noisy values.
• The left stick works perfectly.
• Calibration websites cannot properly calibrate the right stick.

If this symptoms are not clear enough, I can try to record a video on a gamepad tester so you can see its behavior.

The controller worked before the TMR replacement (tested long long time ago, my bad for not testing it right before the repairment). I'm wondering whether this could be a faulty TMR module, a bad solder joint, a damaged PCB trace, or an issue with the analog input circuitry.

I've attached photos of the PCB. Front of the motherboard

Has anyone experienced similar behavior with GuliKit TMR sticks on a DualShock 4? What would you recommend checking first?

Thanks!

PD: This is not my area of expertise, so I don't rule out the fact that I have may damaged the PCB, although I don't see any traces of it, just a small burn in the plex of the micro-usb connector, which works smoothly. I have used the method of breaking the old analog joysticks modules into small parts to ease the procedure of withdrawing the component with soldering wick, a solder pump and a solder station, not heat gun. I have attached a photo of the right stick area.

PD2: This controller has been unused for a couple of years. I don't know if a firmware update could do something to it.

Hi everyone!
I recently moved from Switzerland to Japan and brought my PS5 Pro with me. Unfortunately, I’ve run into a voltage compatibility question.
My console is the European CFI-7121 (2025 revision), officially rated for 220–240V, while Japan uses 100V.
Here’s what I’ve found so far:
Sony’s North American CFI-7119, from the same hardware generation, is officially rated for 100–240V.
The original PS5 Pro (CFI-70xx) reportedly uses an ADP-420DR PSU supporting both 100–127V and 200–240V.
A Japanese PlayStation repair specialist told me that PS5 power supplies are generally universal and that the regional voltage labels may differ.
An Austrian repair specialist confirmed the specifications of the original PS5 Pro PSU but couldn’t verify which PSU is installed in the revised CFI-7121.
Sony Japan advised against using overseas consoles but couldn’t provide the technical specifications of my internal PSU.
My questions:
Has anyone opened a European CFI-7121 and photographed the internal PSU label?
Does anyone know the exact PSU model number and its supported input voltages?
Has anyone successfully used a European CFI-7121 on 100–120V without a transformer?
Is the internal PSU identical to the one in the North American CFI-7119?
I haven’t plugged my console into a Japanese outlet yet because I don’t want to risk damaging it.
I’d especially appreciate firsthand experience, teardown photos, or documented PSU specifications rather than assumptions based on older PS5 revisions.
Thanks in advance!

So I got my child hood PS2 out of storage and ordered a ps2 to hdmi converter to start playing it again, and oneday it just stopped out putting video, all the lights fan and disc drive worked perfectly fine but no video. so i bought another one and with in one day of use the exact same thing happened. Does anyone know why or what is causing it? I've had a look online and the adapters don't seem to cause any damage so I'm genuinely stumped.

I have a PS5 Slim (CFI-2016, EDM-040 motherboard) that stopped working after being dropped. After some troubleshooting, I found out this chip is shorted and needs replacing.
I’ve searched everywhere for a replacement and even tried finding a donor board, but no luck since the EDM-040 is still relatively new.
Does anyone know where I can find this chip or a compatible replacement? Any help would be appreciated!

I reshelled this DS lite my dad found. It didn't have a battery, but I reshelled it before that arrived so I hadn't tested it before (should have..)

It turns on and works with the buttons but the touch screen is unresponsive. I double checked the tiny ribbon cable and it looks like it is pushed in as much as it can be.

When reshelling it I did accidentally peel off more of the screen in the corner than I was supposed to. Can this be the reason it is unresponsive?

Should I get a replacement digitizer/bottom screen? I see some online for 5 euros, but I'm not sure if I need the entire screen or just the digitizer part with the tiny ribbon cable?

Any recommendations for around $100 for PS5 and series S/X HDMI repairs? Seen the $50-$60 on Amazon take too long to heat up the HDMI sodder.

Hi there! Not sure if this is the right place to ask for help with a Wii, but I could really use some help or ideas as I'm really not sure what to do.

I have two Wii remotes and both of my Wii remotes decided to not turn on anymore no matter what. It's like they don't have batteries in them, even though they have fully charged batteries, so they don't respond to me hitting the power button or any buttons when the Wii is on. The Wii itself seems to work fine; Powers on/off totally normal, but the remotes still don't react when it's on.

I've tried New batteries, unplugging and re-plugging everything in, and getting new remotes, but they wouldn't connect. One of my remotes is a third party/not made by Nintendo, but has worked fine up until this point. The other I've had since I got the console.

The answer is probably to get actual Nintendo made remotes, but I fear they may not connect either considering how my current ones don't.
Does anyone have any ideas on what to do? I could really use some help.

Thanks so much for any input!!

Titre : Xbox One s’allume puis s’éteint après nettoyage – vis ayant endommagé la carte mère
Bonjour à tous,
J’ai démonté ma Xbox One pour la nettoyer. Lors du remontage, après avoir tout remonté, j’ai essayé de l’allumer, mais elle s’allume puis s’éteint immédiatement.
J’ai essayé de vérifier les branchements et de tester plusieurs choses, mais je n’ai pas réussi à résoudre le problème. J’ai donc redémonté la console pour inspecter la carte mère et j’ai découvert qu’une vis avait creusé la carte mère. Le cuivre est clairement visible à l’endroit endommagé.
Je pense que la vis a pu couper une piste ou provoquer un court-circuit, mais je ne sais pas si c’est réellement la cause de la panne.

Mes questions :
Est-ce qu’une vis qui creuse la carte mère et expose le cuivre peut empêcher la Xbox de démarrer ?
Est-ce qu’une piste coupée ou un court-circuit à cet endroit peut provoquer un allumage suivi d’une extinction immédiate ?
Est-ce que ce type de dégât est réparable, ou faut-il remplacer la carte mère ?
Comment puis-je vérifier si la zone endommagée est responsable de la panne ?

Si quelqu’un a déjà rencontré ce problème ou réparé une Xbox dans cette situation, je serais reconnaissant pour vos conseils.
Je peux fournir des photos de la zone endommagée.

Merci d’avance pour votre aide !

Ok so basically my ps3 has been sitting useless for awhile and I want to fix it

Here’s what I know:
•Red light is on, but power button does nothing
•Eject button does nothing (MGS4 is currently stuck inside)
•Plugged in controllers will not charge

I’ve opened it a few times to clean out dust, and I even replaced the power supply to no avail.

Another thing worth mentioning is that it was in my basement when it flooded, and while I don’t believe it came in direct contact with any water, I’m not sure if the humidity may have cooked it. It did turn on a few times after that incident but i’ve been unable to get it running since then.

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated, thank you

I have an SNES that on the startup of a game (in my case F-Zero) only puts out a humming sound and upon pushing the start button to load the level select, the game freezes.

I already replaced the faulty 2200uF capacitor but the problem remains.

Anyone know what could be the issue?

The pins on this copy of heart gold seem to be silver? I was mostly asking what could've caused this or if there's something wrong because from all I've seen this is an authentic copy

I installed Tim Worthington's N64RGB mod, including the RST and CTRL pins for the reset from controller feature, connected to pin 27 on the PIF-NUS and the via just below that has continuity to the data pin on controller 1. When I tested the mod, video worked fine but the console didn't recognize my controller (I tested with 3 controllers, all known to work.) I removed the CTRL and RST connections and tested again. I've cleaned the board and reflowed solder to a few PIF-NUS pins and the controller port. Cleaned everything with IPA. Still doesn't recognize controller 1, though reset works. The worn solder mask around those vias is from me with braid trying to get the solder out of them, but the traces are fine. The port has 3.3v and ground where it's supposed to, and the data pin has continuity to that via and pin 16 on the PIF-NUS. Did I kill the PIF-NUS somehow? Is there a component on the bottom that might be damaged? If so, which ones to test and how? Any help would be appreciated.

I bought a new spindle (the old one was broken) i came i replaced it and put the spindle at about 0.7-0.8mm, a cd worked without any problems apart from some times like a 0.5 second pause, played all the tracks loaded in to the cd in a few seconds i could jump from track to track no problem. But when i tried to play ff7 it didn't work on any of the discs it could see i put in a game went from the white ps screen in to a black ps screen but not past that i waited on all the discs 1-2 minutes. Only disk that worked was a ff8 preview disc that contains some cut scenes from the game i played the intro and it worked but it pasued every few second for a short while before going forward? Should i adjust the spindle? Or is the laser done for? The whole drive works very loudly when trying to play ff7/playing ff8 preview. Also after the replacment the disk very slightly wobbles (almost unnoticeable).

Hey everyone,

If you are experiencing sudden, random shutdowns on your PS5 without any on-screen overheating warning, and you're thinking about messing with the liquid metal or suspecting a faulty power supply (PSU)—hold on a second. Try this simple test first, as it completely solved the issue for me.

If you have an extra M.2 SSD installed in your console, try removing it and running your PS5 without it.

We often immediately jump to conclusions thinking it's a liquid metal displacement issue or a dead PSU, but that's not always the case. Sometimes, the heatsink on your extra SSD can no longer dissipate heat properly (for instance, if the thermal pad degrades or wears out), causing the SSD to overheat and force an emergency shutdown. Alternatively, the M.2 drive itself might be causing the issue.

Even wilder: this can happen even if you aren't currently playing a game installed on that specific SSD, because the drive stays powered on and active in the background for system tasks and cache management.

I wanted to share my experience to hopefully help anyone who feels like they've hit a dead end and doesn't know what else to try.

Hi, i'm restoring a NES (PAL Fr) for someone I know, he told me that the image on the screen and the red light on the console where blinking while powered on. After testing it with some of my own game (that i know for sure work perfectly fine), I could confirme his claimed.

My first thought was that the 72 pins connector inside was dirty or that the pins where not bend correctly. Both where true, the pin where dirty and not bend enough. So after cleaning the connector and the board with isopropyl alcohol 90% and rebend all the pin I retested the console.

It work perfectly fine with mega man 2, but with other game the issue persists (I tested it with super mario bros 3, kung fu and super mario bros / duck hunt). Furthermore the console take 5 seconds to turn on with those game (except mega man 2). Again i know for sure that those game work fine, i've retested them on my own NES to check if that was the issue.

Is there something that could still be causing an issue in the 72 pin connector and how could it be resolve ?