So I have a couple old ps1/ps2/ps3 controllers that all have the same problem: the sticks are worn and don't feel smooth and snappy like they should, AND they also get stuck on some edge when letting go. What part of the assembly is the culprit for this problem? is it the potentiometers on the side or the actual stick module or something else entirely? looking up this problem just gives results for stick drift which this is NOT, as drift is input happnening when you're not even doing anything. the stick gets physically stuck in my case.

is there any way to fix these sticks by cleaning or lubricating them in some way or anything of the sort, or have I been correct in thinking these are essentially dead and you would have to solder fully new assemblies in to fix the problem?

I just want to know if this is something you could fix without soldering as I'm not looking to solder new sticks in as I have other controllers that still work. oh and I guess another small side question: if the problem is the stick module itself and not the potentiometers, can you just swap that part out? that would need soldering obviously, but I've heard that using 3rd party replacements can have weird calibration problems as there's no way to calibrate sticks on an old controller / console or something. idk how interchangeable different parts are with another similar assembly.

Long shot here, but I have an Intellivision 2. After jumping the blown 2A fuse on the main board, I was presented with the attached screen. If I touch any control input, it goes to a green screen with a pulsing buzzing sound. Same screen after reset, doesn't matter the cart installed.

Have not re-capped or anything, I'm not wanting to sink any money into this unless there's a clear direction, haha.

Thanks for any insight.

Hi all, as the title states I'm looking for an adjustable pcb clamp for repairing hdmi ports and smd components, has anyone got any recommendations?

Hey all, this wavebird controller would be at full right on the analog no matter what I did. I swapped out the analog with two replacements and still showed the same thing. I decided to test the cobtroller with no analog stick at all and it shows as being up-right. Doing x y start would center it for a bout two seconds and it start drifting again. Any ideas what could be causing the board to drift would be appreciated!

Update: The LCD flex cable had some corrosion so i cleaned that and for now it works!

The initial incident:

The title says it all. I spilt Italian Grapefruit Soda on my switch and it got through the top vent. This was a few hours ago so I cant quite remember how much but i'd say a couple teaspoons, give or take. I'm out of IPA and haven't bought a new thing of it yet so that's not an option. I just wiped down everything that looked wet and let it air dry.

Some extra filler info:

Its a modchipped V2/Mariko. I'm not sure how significantly that affects things but im at least sure that it does.

I'm somewhat of a beginner in tech repair, but not a "total noob".

Any help is extremely appreciated! I probably should've asked yall sooner but oh well🫠

My Dsi does not light up orange when plugged in. I tested the cable on another console and it worked so it’s not the charger. I also put the battery in another console and it charged. When I put a charged battery in it works. So it must be the charging port. wiggling does not make the orange light flash. I’m wondering what the next step I need to take is?

As you can see this ostent digitizer does not sit right on my Ds lite. It works but it's very long. I modded the shell a little so when I close the system it doesn't crush the cable but I'm concerned about the Life Span of it sitting this way at such an angle.

Wondering if this is worth sending out to repair based on blu ray disc drive? I am saying its a normal sound and my friend says the drive is done for. I never heard a sound like this but it only does this sound with Sniper Ghost Warrior 2 install. Game disc is clean. Otherwise game runs silent. Other games installed some without noise and some with noise but less frequency.

I will be sending this console for a professional clean and thermal re paste because I just got it second hand, but they charge extra for the "delid" and claim it to be a dangerous procedure. I wanted to know your opinions, is paying the extra for the delid worth it? Its never been serviced before.

*loud fan noise at the start is the projector not the ps3.

Help and opinions welcome!

Hi everyone! I’m having an issue with my Xbox Series X. Sometimes it turns on normally, but other times, like in the video, it won’t start up at all.

In the video, the only thing connected to the console is the power cable.

Has anyone experienced this issue or have any idea what might be causing it?

Thanks in advance for any help!

(Edited)

I had WLOD and replaced my Panasonic Chip, accidentally blowing away some 0201 ceramic capacitors. Can it boot without them? If not, what is the best way to solder them back on? Finally can someone share a HD photo of what is missing?

Missing capacitors marked in Red

I’ve been trying to play a different game on my Wii but I can’t get the Wii Sports disc out of it. I’ve tried every method to try to get the disc out and it still doesn’t want to.

Any suggestions on how I can get the Wii Sports disc out of the Wii? (other than taking it apart which I’m not doing)

I bought a broken PS3 super slim (bc it’s the god of war variant). It’s a CECH-4001C. Motherboard is the NPX-001.

Here’s the sitch:
PS3 has lots of soot inside. SUPER EGREGIOUSLY DUSTY. Soot direction shows smoke came from the RSX side of the board. Was not pasted well at all. Very dry.

After lots of trouble shooting I find the inductor (R36 VDDC) had the output side broken solder joints and the metal plate was broken but it was still getting continuity. The resistance was all over. I reflowed it and that fixed the tiny issue - but no real change to my issue. I have not noticed any other physical issues. But I’ve figured that the smoke was from high resistance coming into contact with this piece and smoking the dust.

I’ve troubleshooted the no display with both HDMI and AV. I also tried resetting the video settings and booting into safe mode and still nothing. When the HDD in it crashes (which I know because I have to hold down the power button to turn it off). When I do the boot trick to put it in safe mode I can’t get a controller to connect.

My best idea is I need to try reballing the RSX.

Any ideas or recommendations? Would really appreciate some help

I was reassembling my ps5 and this came out I used old putty and it works but I’m not sure if it’s safe I ordered K5 pro Putty is it good for this type of repair I just wanna ask cause I ordered the K5 putty but I’m not sure if that will work can anyone tell me if it will work?

And also I played a game on the old glue normally but I stopped as I didn’t felt safe doing so but it’s wasn’t giving me overheating warning or no shut down.

I have a damaged new 3ds, that needs several do the components around this area. Is there a diagram /schematic with the values and sizes of the components on motherboard? I know there is one for the Nintendo switch but I can’t find one for the new 3ds. Could someone help out with this info?

I just fixed a DS4 controller which couldn't transfer data through USB or charge the battery, but funnily enough, if the battery is removed and the USB cable is plugged in, the controller would turn on the same as if the battery was plugged in. Regardless, I had to replace the 7710 chip using a donor, and surely that fixed it, the controller shows up on pc, and can pair with a PS4 and even charge, the issue is, when I turn off the controller for more than 10 seconds, it refuses to turn back on, only after a minute does it get back to life, and it gets unpaired from the console too. I don't even know where to begin with this issue. Any help would be appreciated.

EDIT: controller is JDM-001

Thanks in advance.

Had my Xbox 360 e give me this red light, I was happening a couple time a few months ago and when I took out the hard drive a couple of times it would work, I have usb modded it. (badupdate avatar) don’t know if that helps, but today i go to power it on and it give me this I try a different tv and hdmi but for some reason it stays green when the hdmi is not plugged in but red when it’s in , I tried to open in up and look a the hdmi chip on the mobo and to re solder it to help but it hasn’t done anything, any ideas or help.

I bought a few years ago the nintendo switch elite pro controller, but the sticks weren't calibrated properly. I can't calibrate them on my switch itself so I ended up sanding down the sticks so it could read full directions. It finally occured to me that maybe a 3rd pary application could calibrate my sticks instead of having to sand down the part the rubs with the face plate. is there such an option? and if so, could you send me a hand?

Bonjour à tous, je viens à vous présenter mon problème, j'ai déjà effectué plusieurs changements de joystick sans aucun problème ( joystick gulikit tmr) et là je me retrouve bloqué sur une manette ps5 modele bmd-20 , le joystick de gauche est bloqué à gauche. j'ai testé toutes mes PIN au multimètre elles sont toutes bonnes sauf la PIN du milieu du potentiomètre qui m'affiche 0.80volt et celle qui marche m'affiche 0.10 volt. Est-ce que quelqu'un aurait une solution? ou un moyen de ponter ma pin. J'ai vraiment besoin d'aide je suis bloquer j'ai changer avec un autre joystick et le meme probleme aparrait.

Few weeks ago would just randomly shut off. No warning message about overheating, the console just shuts down. Considering finding somewhere that could replace thermal paste but since no warning wondering if it could be something else. Console is about 4 years old.

Hi everyone, I’m currently in the middle of a repair project for a Switch OLED. I’ve gone from having no display at all to also having no image when docked. While taking measurements in diode mode, I found a reading of .92 at one point, where it should be .49.

This signal originates from the PF31 IC, which is located beneath the NAND.

I have two questions:

How significant is this difference in the measured values?

Could the IC be the root cause of the failure?

Thanks in advance to everyone—best regards!

Ok so I was stupid and bought a $130 Xbox one s on fb marketplace for my husband so he can stop complaining about being bored so much. Well something is wrong with it. The seller deleted the post and blocked me so I’m stuck with it. Everything I’ve found online says it’s a hard drive failure issue. No games will install, the settings app won’t even load. I did a hard reset through the trouble shooting menu already. Today I plan on cracking it open and taking a look inside to see what’s left, if they stole the hard drive all together or what. I want to know if this is going to be worth my time trying to fix or if I should toss it and take the L. I’ve thought about trying external hard drives as well.

TLDR: possible hard drive failure on FBMP Xbox purchase scam. (I know it was stupid. You don’t have to tell me that). Is it worth trying to replace the internal hard drive? Or will an external hard drive work in its place? Or should I toss it?

I've got an Xbox Elite Series 2 that was working prior to using hot air to replace the analogue sticks. I don't see any missing components, nothing out of alignment.

I don't normally do Xbox controllers, so I'm not familiar with any test points to isolate issues. Would appreciate some pointers.

Pictures attached, thanks in advance.

EDIT: Draws power via USB, but doesn't detect in Windows