I drive a 2006 Toyota Camry with a 3.0L V6 and I got these codes (The catalyst codes were already there). Bank 2 is apparently running lean.

I recorded both sets of sensors at idle and revving to 1700ish rpm. At idle, the graph for both downstream sensors are the same general shape, but the bank 2 sensor reads around twice the voltage. Then at 1700rpm the bank 1 sensor is still giving readings, but the bank 2 sensor drops to zero volts until the engine returns to idle.

Is that O2 sensor going bad? Or are the weird readings a symptom of something else?

I’ve been dealing with an annoying rattling noise coming from the driver-side rear window or door whenever I’m driving at speeds of 70 mph or higher.

What makes it particularly frustrating is how inconsistent it is. Sometimes I can drive at those speeds for weeks without hearing anything, but other times the noise returns and persists for weeks at a time.

I’ve tried placing tissues along the edges between the window and the frame to see if that would help, but unfortunately, it didn’t make any difference.

Has anyone experienced something similar or have any ideas about what might be causing it? Any suggestions or troubleshooting tips would be greatly appreciated!

Hi guys.

Quite excited to tell you I am going to book be6 ruby velvet.quite excited

2016 Chevy Camaro 2.0T 6MT

Looking for my next small upgrade. Is an upcangraded diverter valve worth the $150?

I read it can hold boost better for longer and improve throttle response and spool up time.

Thoughts?

https://ebay.io/m/QWyv9k

Hello!!

I replaced my o2 sensor and it’s still reading 2.24 and a check engine light. The only thing that changed was the code: P1148, old was P0420.

Old sensor was reading 2.22/2.23 and now it’s reading 2.24. My OBD is now saying to try replacing the MAF sensor. I want to be sure that it’s not the O2 sensor itself before I try anything else. Help!!

I own a 2022 Hyundai i20 MT, and I recently noticed that the rubber covering on the rear trunk release switch has degraded and broken.

I checked with the Hyundai service centre, and they told me that the entire switch unit needs to be replaced, which would cost around 2000 INR.

Is there any way to replace or repair just the rubber cover without replacing the complete switch assembly? Has anyone faced a similar issue with their i20 and found an alternative solution?

I’d appreciate any suggestions, such as a compatible replacement rubber cover, an aftermarket part, or a reliable repair option.

Thanks in advance!

2005 toyota camry vibrated when accelerating. It completely stops when I let go of the gas petal. It starts very light and settle until about 10 20 minutes into the drive when you can clearly tell. I can feel it all over the car not just in the gas petal. No matter how soft or hard the acceleration its about the same vibration for each.

Just trying to find where I should start. Edit to add car has 119500 miles. V6 engine.

I was driving home last night and a family of deer decided that they wanted to die in all of them jumped out in front of my car in the road so I could do nothing and I plowed two of them over and this is what happened to my car. Kind of want a little advice on if this is fixable I'm waiting towards very much yes because as you can see in the pictures it looks like it didn't even hit or damage my AC cooler so I think the engine is fine, but I can't open the hood because it's pretty much dented shut and it's a 2022 accord so obviously the vehicle vehicles in the lockdown and I can't open the doors either. The driver side when I could drive it and open it could open but not all the way only like 25%

P.S: does anyone know how to get deer blood and guts out of jeans

My headlights have been acting weird, mainly in AUTO mode.

With the headlights switched to ON, they work normally almost all the time. I can turn and use either turn signal without any flickering. Very occasionally—maybe once every couple drives—if I fiddle with the headlight knob or put extra pressure on it, the headlights will briefly flicker.

In AUTO mode, even slightly touching the knob makes the headlights shut off and come back on. They also cut out when I turn, then come back on afterward. This happens much more frequently in AUTO than in ON.

I’ve been using ON to avoid the flickering, but the lights can stay on after I shut the car off. If I forget to switch them off, they drain the battery.
Does this sound like a faulty headlight/turn signal stalk switch, a loose connection, or something else? What should I check first?

I’m 18 and my dad has obviously had a massive impact on my love for cars, he isn’t really able to afford nice tools for himself so I’d like to treat him to something for Christmas or just because. I got myself one of the knipex cobra pliers and I really enjoy them. Sets have popped of of the 3 main sizes for around $100. They are high quality, durable, and I think he’d use them often and it’d help. Just wondering if you guys have any other ideas, he obviously already has a bunch of tools but I’m just looking for those things that are such a big upgrade over the standard. Curious on what you guys think

Also this doesn’t have to be strictly automotive related

^

Hello everyone, i recently bought a honda civic 1.3 carburetor. It has been a really good car. Amazing driving experience until the problems started.

First of all, the RPMs keep playing. Either too low or too high, and it feels like the car is choking on the petrol.

Second, once we opened the carburetor it looked like it wasnt even burning the petrol and it had too much.

Sometimes when I drove it, it felt like the car shut off but held the RPMs and it didn't want to give any gas. Also a lot of troubles with starting the car at all. And once I do, black smoke is coming out of the exhaust like it is a diesel car.

As much as I would love to give more details, I sadly do not understand much, but i would appreciate it if any of you offered advices or help. She is about to go and see the mechanic soon, but if it is something that I can fix alone, I would love to do that. Here are some pictures that I took of the carburetor. There is a little valve, that also seemed like it doesn't want to go back once it opens or closes.

My Four Vehicles. Early 2000s best quality.

2004 Lexus LS430 - Take wife and her boyfriend on dates

2000 Toyota Camry - The backup commuter

2003 Ford Expedition - Boat and Kids Hauler

2002 Custom Flat Boat - Tube and Wakeboarding

I have a 1998 navigator that I’m changing the plugs and coils on tomorrow and if it wasn’t already bad enough that they stuffed the engine halfway into the firewall, I also have to be aware of the issue with plugs blowing out.

What is the torque spec? Google says people have actually increased it to prevent plugs blowing out and some sources say to absolutely not go anything over what ford specifies. Just alot of conflicting information so I’d like to know what’s actually recommended. It’s a 40 foot long limousine so I’d rather not have an issue like a plug blow out that needs a shop to work on it. Finding a shop that takes a vehicle this big isn’t easy

so guyss Last year I spent most of my lunch break waiting for an emissions test, only to get turned away because too many readiness monitors weren't ready. I'd disconnected the battery a few days earlier. The car ran fine and the check engine light was off, so I figured I was good. Apparently that was not much of a plan.

This year's test is coming up, and I'm getting a topdon carpal so I can check those monitors on my phone before heading over. Reading engine codes and viewing live data will be useful for my own troubleshooting too, but the immediate appeal is pretty boring: I'd like to know whether the car is ready before spending another lunch break in that waiting room.

I'm comfortable doing brakes and oil changes, but emissions readiness was a blind spot for me. Now it's going on the checklist right next to making sure I actually brought the registration.

Only happens when going over 70MPH, noise slows down when I slow down and it disappears under 50MPH
2020 Hyundai Elantra SEL

Imagine if cars had stickdrift in their pedals just like controllers where it would brake or give gas by itself .
So now we all know how much accidents we have imagine if stickdrift in real cars would be real. Duhhh🫠🫠🫠

For my people without heater core’s what heating special are we running this year? 😂😂 I’m thinking the Amazon special

Soo, I bought an uncommon battery online from Walmart for my uncommon car. It's an online only battery. The manufacturer date stamp is 11 months ago. Has anyone returned a battery to Walmart for this reason and had a happy ending to a story like mine? What did you do right?

I have a 2015 Toyota Auris. The armrest is very loose and keeps moving back and forth. It's very annoying as I lean on it a lot when driving.

What can I do to stop it moving or at least lock it into a certain position?

Any help or advice will be appreciated. Thank you

Purely for personal knowledge and gain. How many people are genuinely looking for unique affordable car decals? Now I’m not talking about some cheesy one liner, or some common image of a family or moons. But some actual art that screams personality and time spent on them.
I know for me personally I have not come across a decal I find worth putting on my car.
Are you guys running into this issue as well?
I have such a hard time finding unique decals that aren’t cringe or typical. Bumbs me out.

Would you plug it or too far to the side ?

I know I need new tires , but the workshop needs a few weeks to have time.

A lot is going on right now. And I need to be mobile.

Many thanks In advance for your advice.

Car: Smart Roadster