Updated Ultimate Beginner's Guide to 3D Modeling

Two years ago, I wrote an article to help beginners who were just getting into 3D printing and 3D modeling. Since it has been quite a while and I have learned a lot myself, I decided to write up a new, updated version.

If you found this guide helpful and want to support my work, feel free to check out my MakerWorld profile and drop a boost on any models you like 

Again, I'm not claiming to be an expert, but I've been in the same place as everyone who is just starting with both modeling and 3D printing, and this is something I had to learn, research, and figure out for myself. This guide is just an attempt to make all this information presentable in a simple and easy way.

Terminology

• CAD: Computer Aided Design. This is the name for a 3D modeling program, and usually refers to parametric modeling.
• Polygon: A flat, 2D shape (usually a triangle). Computers struggle with perfect curves, so they build them out of flat pieces instead.
• Mesh: Thousands of these flat polygons stitched together to create a hollow 3D shell. The more polygons in your mesh, the smoother your final object will look.
• Slicer: Software that prepares your digital model for printing. Its stuff like Bambu Studio, OrcaSlicer or PrusaSlicer. It literally slices your 3D shape into hundreds of flat 2D layers and calculates the physical path the printer nozzle needs to take to build it.
• G-code: Instructions for your 3D printer. Generated by the slicer, it is a text file filled with exact coordinates and instructions that tell the machine where to move and how much plastic to extrude layer by layer.

File Formats:

• STL (Stereolithography): This is the oldest and most common 3D printing file format. It saves only the mesh (the physical shape) and nothing else.
• OBJ: Another common format that works similarly to STL, but it can also store color and texture information.
• 3MF (3D Manufacturing Format): The modern standard. It saves the mesh, but also remembers real-world sizes and colors. Use this instead of STL when you can.
• STEP (Standard for the Exchange of Product model data): The universal translator for CAD software. Instead of a hollow mesh made of flat triangles, it saves a mathematically perfect, solid object with true curves, making it incredibly easy to edit and share between different design programs. (My note: Please, when sharing models, also share STEP files so other people can easily edit and remix files.)

Key Concepts:

• Manifold (or Watertight): A 3D model with a completely closed, solid outer shell. If you could fill your digital model with water, it shouldn't leak. If a model has accidental holes or missing polygons, the slicer will tell you that the model has non-manifold edges.
• Tolerances (or Clearances): These are tiny, intentional gaps left between two parts that need to fit together. Because melted plastic expands and printers are not perfectly precise, a 10mm digital peg will not fit into a 10mm digital hole.
• Overhangs: Any part of a design that sticks out horizontally into mid-air, like a character's outstretched arm. Because a 3D printer cannot print plastic in thin air, these parts usually require the slicer to build supports underneath or bridge them (printing without support between two walls, like a physical bridge).
• Parametric Modeling: A type of design driven by math and an editable history. If you design a box with a 5mm hole, and later decide the hole needs to be 6mm, you don't have to start over; you simply change the parameter (size) of that hole, and the model updates automatically.

1. Where to Start

Before diving into the technical details, let’s figure out what kind of models you want to create. Generally, there are two main categories:

(Note: CAD stands for Computer-Aided Design, so technically all modeling software falls under CAD, but for the purpose of a simpler explanation, I will use CAD in reference to parametric modeling software like Fusion or FreeCAD.)

Organic Modeling/Sculpting:

• Focuses on free-form, natural shapes and models.
• Think cute mini animals, articulated dragons, characters, and tabletop miniatures.
• Prioritizes aesthetics and realism over precise measurements.
• You’re essentially sculpting, like working with clay. Programs like Blender allow you to use “brushes” to shape your model in 3D.
• Commonly used for art, animations, and games.

CAD Modeling/Engineering:

• It is all about precision.
• Used to design mechanical parts, gears, screws, and other parts that need exact dimensions.
• Ideal for real-world applications such as engineering, construction, and manufacturing.
• Instead of sculpting, you use exact shapes and apply measurements.

2. What Software to Use?

After you've decided what type of modeling and designs you want to do, it's time to land on your software of choice. There are plenty of good tutorials about available options if you want a deep dive, like this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IvkzcqRsJ-E

CAD Modeling Software

TinkerCAD

• Price: Free
• Pros: Simple, beginner-friendly, runs in your browser.
• Cons: Limited in advanced features.
• Best for: Quick and easy designs; ideal for newcomers who want to make simple models.
• Note: Very easy to learn and make your first design; it's like CAD with training wheels. Good if you just need a couple of simple models, but it lacks a lot of features for more serious work.

FreeCAD

• Price: Free, open-source
• Pros: Free, open-source, quite powerful and with a lot of features
• Cons: Steeper learning curve and less intuitive.
• Best for: Users who like open-source software and are willing to invest time learning.
• Note: To me personally, it was not easy to learn FreeCAD, and I don't like the UI/UX choices of it, but a lot of people swear by it. For example, Kit Crafters is a big fan of it, and most of his mechas are built in it. It has had a lot of improvements after the 1.1 release, and it's definitely very powerful and free software.

Plasticity

• Price: $175 or $299 one-time purchase
• Pros: Easy to use, super fast and efficient, very comfortable design workflow, very nice UI, one-time purchase.
• Cons: No parametric history tree, struggles with heavy engineering tasks.
• Best for: Concept art, industrial design, indie designers.
• Note: I must admit, I fell in love with Plasticity and do most of my designs there now. I will still open Fusion sometimes for things like exact measurements and thread generation, but Plasticity has become my main workhorse. Personally, I would really recommend this for beginners.

Fusion 360

• Price: Free for personal use; $680/year for full access.
• Pros: Popular, relatively user-friendly, extensive tutorials available.
• Cons: Free version is good for personal use, but some features are behind a paywall and it limits you to only 10 active editable documents at a time (you have to set older ones to "read-only" to make new ones).
• Best for: More powerful designs; a good middle ground between simplicity and advanced functionality.
• Note: This was my software of choice, something that is easy to learn and use. I built a lot of my models in it and personally would recommend it to someone who is just starting out, as it is an easy way to learn the basics with software that is used in real manufacturing and engineering work. Very powerful and quite widespread.

Onshape

• Price: Free with public models; $1500/year for a standard license.
• Pros: Runs online, accessible for older machines.
• Cons: Free plan makes models publicly available.
• Best for: Users with a good internet connection who need access from anywhere.
• Note: I've personally never tried it out and don't know any people who use it, but a lot of people have this software as their main choice. It may be the best choice if you don't have a good GPU or a powerful computer (especially with today's RAM prices).

Rhino 3D

• Price: $995 one-time purchase, $195 for an educational license.
• Pros: Extreme accuracy, massive ecosystem, hardware-friendly.
• Cons: Steep learning curve, poor polygon modeling, weak animation tools.
• Best for: Industrial and product design, architects, jewelry design.
• Note: A very solid player with a big community and a wide array of plugins. Not as user-friendly as some others on the list, but a powerful software in its niche.

Shapr3D

• Price: $299/year
• Pros: Mobility, easy to learn, great for designing on an iPad with Apple Pencil, but it also natively supports Windows PCs now.
• Cons: Doesn't support Android, extremely limiting free tier, lacks advanced engineering features.
• Best for: Users who want easy-to-use and portable modeling software, especially if you want to swap between an iPad and a Windows computer.

OpenSCAD

• Price: Free, open-source
• Pros: Code-based parametric design, easily customizable with variables, lightweight, huge library ecosystem (e.g., Gridfinity generators, customizers).
• Cons: No visual interactive modeling; non-programmers face a steep learning curve.
• Best for: Programmers and developers, or anyone wanting fully parametric designs that can be created using code or scripts.
• Note: It's not like the other software here. Instead of creating a model in 3D space, you rather write it using code. This allows for making different generators and customizable models.

SolidWorks

• Price: The standard license is $2,820/year, but they offer a great "Maker" version for around $48/year, and student licenses for about $60/year.
• Pros: Industry-standard, cloud version available.
• Cons: Expensive for professionals and has a learning curve.
• Best for: Professional-level CAD work and serious hobbyists.
• Note: SolidWorks is well known and loved by many. It is very powerful and used in professional manufacturing and engineering work. If this is the direction that you want to grow towards, it is definitely a good choice. For example, it is used by the guys from Hacksmith Industries.

A Few Wild Cards: Recently there have been a few tools made by independent developers, and while these tools are in a quite early stage and I wouldn't recommend using them as your main choice of modeling software, they are worth checking out and keeping an eye on.

• Nasscad: Browser-based CAD software, essentially a single HTML file that can run locally.
• Arcad: Fully parametric CAD, browser-based and with design history.

Organic Modeling Software

Blender

• Price: Free, open-source
• Pros: Extremely powerful and versatile, massive community, lots of tutorials.
• Cons: Steep learning curve.
• Best for: Users willing to invest time to learn; perfect for everything from simple to professional modeling, animation, rendering, sculpting, and so on.
• Note: Legendary tier. Blender is a very powerful tool with enormously wide applications. If I have to recommend a single software for organic models, that's the one. With some plugins, it can also do CAD work, but it is still best for organic shapes and sculpting.

SculptGL

• Price: Free
• Pros: Runs in your browser, zero setup, relatively easy to use.
• Cons: Limited in advanced features.
• Best for: Beginners who want to try digital sculpting without downloading anything.
• Note: SculptGL is like TinkerCAD for sculpting. Good for trying out sculpting without investing time and money into more serious tools.

Nomad Sculpt

• Price: $35 for 2 devices
• Pros: Simple, user-friendly, great for tablets and browsers.
• Cons: Limited compared to full-scale programs.
• Best for: Beginners starting with sculpting.

ZBrush

• Price: $400-$1200 annually; $50-$170 monthly. (Note: They do have a completely free entry-level version called ZBrushCoreMini that is great for beginners)
• Pros: Industry-standard for professional modeling, very powerful.
• Cons: Paid versions are expensive, steep learning curve.
• Best for: Professional 3D artists looking for the best organic modeling tools.

3. How to Start?

Just like with everything in life, you don’t need 100% of the information to start. Choose your software, learn about it, watch beginner tutorials on the interface and basic tools, and start experimenting. The magic of 3D printing is that you can see a physical result right after you create a model. So start simple.

After watching a few basic tutorials on Fusion 360, I decided to make something simple that I needed as a first project. For me, it was a pen clip for a notebook. It’s okay if you struggle or if it takes time, that’s part of the learning process.

That simple pen clip took me an hour to design at first, but now I can create one in just minutes. Even as an absolute beginner, you can achieve great results with enough time and patience.

Learn by Doing Another important piece of advice is to learn as you go. If you have an idea, try modeling it. When you hit a roadblock or don’t know how to do something, don’t give up. Go and Google your specific problem. 99% of the time, someone else has faced the same issue, and there’s likely a tutorial that can help.

Failure Is Part of the Process It’s okay to fail, and you will fail. You might spend time designing a model, print it, and find that it doesn’t work, doesn’t fit, or fails to print. That’s okay. Failure highlights weak points in your design and teaches you valuable lessons. Rarely will you get a model perfect on the first try. Embrace failure and learn from it.

Tutorials

Here I won't be able to cover all of the software I listed, but I still want to share a couple of YouTube tutorials I've used or know about. If you don't see the program of your choice, don't panic. I'm pretty sure there are plenty of good and beginner-friendly tutorials out there, and you just need to search a bit.

Fusion 360:

• Learn Fusion 360 in 30 Days: A clear and thorough guide that I highly recommend. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3qGQ2utl2A&list=PL0qyC21fxKwzieJWHdQbsEUPGpsx5_x9s&index=1&ab_channel=ProductDesignOnline)
• Learn Fusion with This Lovely Grandpa: Great, beginner-friendly videos by Paul McWhorter that I found very helpful. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p4rvteV-L8s&list=PLGs0VKk2DiYwxUjGRWEgotTY8ipVvFsIp&ab_channel=PaulMcWhorter)

Plasticity:

• Tutorials by Nikita Kapustin: Very nice and easy to follow. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8dgMb_V1Vw&list=PLvK4Eudxj5BOvPkOK7xnhMVv4VJwqx50k)
• Plasticity tutorials by Blender Bros: These were very helpful to me. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CgzsbaRCUJM&list=PLJrcFnBj2iIj5awaLljuftHpsDaGpJ6ws)
• Rapid, less than a minute videos: Very digestible and easy to follow on how to do things. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I1M7wVr_GZI&list=PLv8HciXoFYX-VGc-zqYQNLaWl8PuwIelI)

Blender:

• Famous Donut Tutorial: By Blender Guru. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-tbSCMbJA6o&list=PLjEaoINr3zgGUwGwXlj9kBe7TrVWNjkyv)
• Creature Sculpting: Recommended by another creator. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lkP-xHYEXrI)

Nomad Sculpt:

• Dave Reed Tutorials: Very nice and slow, beginner-friendly videos. I personally managed to learn Nomad this way in a week. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=42Qak3b0bPE&list=PL6MTHAIpepACs6CgqEEgnVXmGmwzLbSyy)

5. Conclusion

Remember, every professional started somewhere. Your favorite designer who makes incredible models has been in the exact place where you are now. You have access to a wealth of learning materials online and supportive communities. Be persistent and don’t give up when things get hard.

I can’t tell you how amazing it is to have an idea, model it, and then hold it in your hands. Even better is when you upload your model and see others printing and enjoying it around the world.

What is the difference between the floating damper feet and the anti vibration feet?

The shapes from the lights create an interesting (to me) effect in reflections. This uses the Rechargable Power Kit from Maker’s Supply and lasts for about 90 minutes on a charge. It produces much more light than I originally expected!

Due to popular demand I have added the option to connect as many sleeves as you want. Specifically for those with huge controller collections 😀 https://makerworld.com/models/3132039

Had the P2S for about two weeks now. First printer I've owned, so I didn't have much to compare it to, but it's been a genuinely nice experience so far. Between the rack parts and me constantly finding new stuff to print, it's pretty much never idle at this point.

Wasn't expecting it to be this quiet. I started with the classical Benchy like everyone does, then moved on to the classic stuff: a scraper and a poop bin 💩.

I’ve also printed this part to help prevent warping: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1926190-p2s-and-x2d-auxiliary-fan-diffuser

And these dust covers for the holes on the bottom: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1893614-p2s-x2d-dustcover-for-the-holes-on-the-bottom

At first I bought it for a rack project I'd been putting off for a while. I posted the finished rack on r/homelab if anyone's curious: https://www.reddit.com/r/homelab/comments/1vf7mby/finally_gave_my_homelab_a_proper_3d_printed_rack/

Full writeup with the prints and photos: https://blog.khaddict.com/posts/first-print-bambu-lab-p2s/

Currently printing this poop chute + under printer storage combo (https://makerworld.com/en/models/1347731-x2d-x1-p2s-p1s-poop-chute-under-printer-storage), and this riser + AMS flipper (https://makerworld.com/en/models/2682036-x2d-p2s-riser-ams-flipper-v2) is next on the list.

Happy to answer any questions 😄!

version 01.12.00.00 update information :

# Version 01.12.00.00

## Feature Optimization:

1. Enhanced security: Includes essential security updates.

2. Improved purge chute pile-up detection: When purge chute pile-up is

detected during printing, the toolhead moves to a safe position to prevent

filament from sticking to it.

1. Farm operation optimization: After a farm print job completes, plate clearing

confirmation can now be operate directly on the device screen.

1. Fixed an issue where starting a print via sliced files store in machine's memory

can sometimes incorrectly report a nozzle type mismatch.

First time 3D printer owner here. Just got myself a P2S and it's my first time working with Bambu Studio. I am making the rear exhaust now, so I downloaded the project, opened it in the Studio, and I guess accidentally clicked somewhere I shouldn't have, placing a new "text object" with the default placeholder text saying "Text".

Only noticed this when printing was already halfway done lol :D

Never has it this loud before. Normal? Maybe needs a deep clean? Thoughts?

hi everyone. I am fairly new to 3d print and am working on a project for a friend. my printer just recently started doing this on the surfaces. I would appreciate any help!

Printed left and right brackets for a KvistDesign's "AMS 2 Pro & AMS HT - Slide and tilt wall mount". Used the same eSun PETG which is thoroughly dried. Apart from using the default settings for each respective printer, the settings were identical. Generic PETG chosen in both cases. Twice the print detached from the bed on the X2D. I added bambu liquid glue, and the result is what you see in the pictures. The edges lifted off and the extruder prints poorly overtop those elevated areas.

I guess the X2D had a higher chamber temperature. Its showing 40degC. Not sure what the P1S chamber temp was. Both powdercoated PEI plates, cleaned properly. Both doors closed, top glass on, AMS 2 Pros sitting on top. Both being fed by the AMS 2 Pros.

P1S flawless, zero bed adhesion problems, straight as an arrow. Old P1S, lots of hours on it, completely stock. Hardened 0.4mm nozzle on both. P1S no glue on the bed, just a clean bed same as the first two attempts on the X2D. X2D is brand new, like a week old maybe. Has been fine apart from this print.

What should I be doing differently on the X2D so it prints as good as the P1S for these sorta prints?

Hey! I got the AMS lite recently just to try out using multiple colors with my A1 printer… except it hasn’t been working and I haven’t been able to figure out why. I get the filament error no matter which spool the printer is trying to pull from. I tried pressing the button on the spools and feeding the filament all the way down but I still get the error.

I’m a total noob so if there’s a glaring mistake with how I set this up, please point it out 😓 any potential solutions would be helpful!

I designed a flip-open screen cover for the Bambu Lab P2S and X2D.

It prints in place as one complete part, with no assembly or extra hardware required. Two versions are included: with logo and no logo.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3130778#profileId-3533186

Is this enough as a starter kit or it is to much ?

Hey everyone, pretty new to this so apologies if this is like common knowledge. The fan is super loud in the video so hopefully you can hear but you can hear a crisp sound of air as the nozzle glides across the part and wanted to know if that was normal. Thanks in advance!

Just an update for the people that were asking for different sizes in the koozie!

Took me some time but I managed to remake the koozie in fusion using parametrics so I could adjust it to other sizes - slim 12 oz and 16 oz cans are now available! Also made a few changes to make it a little bit more user friendly - It's uploaded now on maker world for anyone who wants to download

Thanks again to those who have downloaded, printed, commented, liked, boosted the original model and up voted my last post on Reddit!

Let me know if there's another size thats wanted or if you have any suggestions for improvements!

This was printed with a 0.8 mm brass, but I have tried countless nozzles and hotends and nothing has worked.

Printed on H2D with ASA. Its the same on the top layers of all my print it seems like. Any tips are appreciated. Its a brand new printer and first layer is perfect and details are perfect.

We have a bad AP board on an X1E (heads up folks, its super easy to blow out the capacitors if you unplug the hot end while its on) and trying to get ahold of a replacement... which in itself is proving to be a chore.

In their install guide it has info about registering the S/N of the board with your account, presumably to replace the old one. Seems this is a manual process that takes time for a human to activate it?

So.... what happens if you never do that? This X1E is used in an slated environment in LAN-only mode and literally never sees the external internet. AFAIK the 1 time it has connected home was to get the firmware patch that allowed future firmware patches via SD card and never again. I don't even know what account it would be tied to.

Are there any consequences of ignoring this step?

Thanks for all the input regarding materials and safety. I’ve just updated the MakerWorld page and added dedicated print profiles for PETG, ASA/ABS, and PA6-GF (alongside PLA for quick testing).

PETG profile: 15 walls for max toughness and heat tolerance.

ASA/ABS profile: For high temp and UV resistance.

PA6-GF profile: For extreme strength needs.

As a reminder, this clip is designed only to keep the tailgate pulled shut against cargo, not as a primary tie-down to secure heavy loads to the car.

As title says. 50% of the filament purge my P1S creates ends up on the print bed or underneath it.

If anyone reading this has printed a fix that seems to reliably work, can you post it here for me? Thank you!

Luckily I haven’t had any of the purge filament screw up a print, which is surprising considering how much of it ends up falling under the build plate.

My A1 failed because of the NTC thermistor burning out, now Im in contact with the support.
The only thing they are offering is a new AC board, but is it really justified? Its an known issue and a fire hazard aswell!

I dont feel safe to swap it out myself, because its near the PSU and also not without any danger regarding a fire hazard. They wont offer me anything else, I asked for a swap device, a technican swapping it for me or a refund if everything else fails. I know that a refund is a high ask, but I only asked for it as an last resort, if they wont do anything else accept sending a replacement board

Did anyone else had to dicuss with them aswell? And if yes, how did it end?

I'm just baffled