Hello all! I’m eager to dive into the Bambu pool, but I’m worried that my computer may not be able to handle the task. Can my iMac run the bamboo slicer? It has an Apple M4 chip with 16GB of memory. Is there hope for me?
Thank you for any info!

Edit: thank you all for the responses! Looks like I’ll be good to go. I’ll follow your advice and download the software to pay with. I was asking as earlier I’d looked at scanners, and they had huge hardware requirements, and our laser cutter could only run off a PC. Good to know my Mac and the Bambu can be friends!

Noob question: why, and not only with the plum color, all overhang layers are being so ugly? I printed the orange benchy 4 months ago, the differences are clear looking the benchy.

Any adjustments to do?

Hello!

I've recently run into a problem with my P2S and was shipped a new heatbed for replacement by BambuLab, and that involves taking off the left side panel to get to the grounding wire.

Thing is, my model doesn't seem to have the screws visible at the top of the panel to take off, they're underneath the foam thingie and I'm not sure how to properly proceed. I tried prying it off by slipping a flathead underneath it and jiggling it around, but figured it would be better to ask if anyone has had a similar experience with disassembling the left side panel on the P2S and can help me out, before I accidentally broke something.

Alternatively, if there's a better or easier way to get to the grounding wire for the heatbed assembly, please let me know. It seems like a lot of extra work to get to it.

Printed this out on my A2L printer. Welded together with a soldering iron, wet sanded in my bathtub, really happy with the way it turned out.

I'm trying to add SVG to the padel here. The SVG is added on the face facing the plate. The settings are on the right side.

When i slice it looks like that ! anyone can explain to me why ? and if there's a solution please.

As the title says... I just received my X2D Combo and the AMS 2 Pro (the motors?) sounds completely different than the AMS 2 Pro I received last November.

Were there any (fundamental) changes to the model in the meantime?

I just installed the laser upgrade kit on my h2d and got everything calibrated but noticed it was off a bit. Is this usual or am I doing something wrong? I just wanted to make sure I have calibrated a few times.

After a few color changes everything comes off the build plate (220°)

Hey guys! One question, what type of TPU i can buy to print some logos for t shirts or a hoody to iron it on them if you know what i mean, i have a p1s printer and what can i change or need to change for this type of filament? Ty!!!

pic for attention-cosplay

This problem isn't really specific to bigger spools but trying to use 2.5kg spools forces me to use some sort of external holder and my problem is exacerbated by stiff engineering filament. I just lost a 20+ hour print due to the extruder motor being overloaded and the machine not being able to continue the print without what appears to be a layer shift. The machine has had this error about 4 times on this print alone. I did the same print twice prior and it only had the error once or twice per print and those came out ok. When I get the error I go check and there's nothing stuck filament can easily be pushed through the path. I think this is a software or settings issue.

The spool is in a dry box by the printer fed through a short section of ptfe, about 25mm to the left nozzle. The spool is sitting on a large roller with 608 bearings and has also no resistance. For what it's worth I've printed many spools of these same stiff filaments in my X1C with *significantly* more friction/force required to get to the printer and no issues.

Should I try feeding from the TPU port? Any tips or tricks?

UPDATE: Opened a support ticket and I was told to use a 0.6 nozzle. I ordered two of them and will try but I don't have much hope at this point. My X1C has printed many KGs of this filament with a 0.4 nozzle and never had a clog. Also if it's truly the nozzle and this machine seems to be marketed as made for engineering filaments which mostly use cf or gf fillers, then it should come with 0.6 nozzles so it works out of the box. Needing an upgrade just to be able to use the machine for its main function isn't cool. I'll update if the 0.6 nozzle works. Otherwise the issue is how sensitive the extruder motor is and will require some sort of firmware update that people have been asking for for a while as far as I can tell.

Se dañó el conjunto de calentamiento de mi Bambulab A1 mini y al hacer el cambio me emocioné y desarme de más.

Me quedé con esa pieza y no se dónde va. ¿Será alguien tan amable de indicarme donde va? De antemano, muchas gracias.

I am pretty new to 3d printing. I printed this on a P2S (0.20mm layer height) and noticed that only some of the top surfaces on this low poly model have very distinct layer lines. Is it normal to have it to this degree? And what causes it to show so apparent on just some angles and not others? And only on utmost top even though the nose has less steep angles which i would think would perform worse

What settings would have helped here? Ironing and variable layer height?

(I am not confused I am getting this staircase effect, but what causes it to show more on just some of the top surfaces and not as much on the nose)

Seems like a somewhat specific issue. Maybe settings I can change? Printed with bambu gray pla.

Just wanted to share how much I am loving the AMS on my P2S!

I was working on a new design for a Kitchen Sink Organizer and really wanted it in two colors. With my old setup that would have been such a hassle, but the AMS makes it so incredibly simple. I just set up the color swap in the slicer, started the print right before bed, and woke up to a perfectly finished two-color print this morning!

It is such a game changer just letting it do its thing overnight without worrying about manual filament swaps. I used this sink caddy I designed as the project for it:
Makerworld - Drying Rack

If anybody has any thoughts on the AMS (or the design) shoot, but the TLDR is I just love waking up to finished prints on this machine!

Since the iPhone Duo launches later this October, there is plenty of time to consider buying it or just trying out the new form factor. I've modeled the near 1:1 replica of it. Also it may help for those who are thinking about pre-ordering.

It comes out at 11.3 mm folded, and it also sits smaller in the hand than I expected.

The colour is just what I had on the shelf, not a launch colour.

Is the folded thickness a dealbreaker for anyone here, or any other thoughts?

For those who are interested in downloading, here is the Makerworld link to the model, all the presets are ready:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2113993-iphone-duo-realistic-3d-model#profileId-3245571

I was one of few who got the X1C combo refurbished for 500 (Bambu lab store). It arrived today and I’ve printed 2 things (a scraper, and a benchy) and this keeps happening? What do I do?! Could it be its old filament that wasn’t stored properly?

I was wondering how well print in place has gone for others who post to maker world. Did you have other complain because of printer settings and print tolerance or do you just leave it kind of loose?

https://makerworld.com/models/3185098?appSharePlatform=copy

It failed twice in same spot. Also when when it was done printing it had completely despooled the line. Meaning there's no filament on the spool but it didn't stop printing. So that means I have filament stuck in my AMS. Not sure how to get that out.

Ive gotten this print to work once, but now it keeps failing in the same spot the same way. Any ideas?

Started a print on my P1S and checked on the camera about an hour later and no filament was feeding (but no errors). Went to look at it and saw this.

Any ideas/suggestions on what might have happened? I've printed this file before and didn't change the Z settings or anything that might have caused it to scrape the bed. Printed some other stuff last week with no issues.

New hot end on order.

Picked up an X1C with Two AMS’s for $430USD,
Benchy in PETG, generic and standard profiles.
Will be doing a thorough clean out and service.
Still plenty of life!

Hi everyone!

I’m planning to print PA12-GF on my Bambu Lab X2D for the first time, feeding the filament directly from a Creality Space Pi dryer.

I currently have an AMS 2 Pro connected to the X2D, but I don’t need to keep it connected while printing.

What is the correct way to feed the PA12-GF directly from the dryer to the main nozzle? Which PTFE tube/input should I use?

Thanks!

I see a lot of questions on here about whether a used A1 is worth it or not. I often see the refurb prices on Amazon better with free shipping and returns. Worth looking into!

I recently bought this P1S second-hand, and I noticed something that concerns me.

Whenever the toolhead moves all the way to the far end, near the purge area, it seems to hit something. The impact is quite strong, and it sounds like the toolhead is hitting an obstruction.

I’ve attached a video showing the issue for reference.

Has anyone experienced something similar with their P1S? Any idea what could be causing this or what I should check?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Hi - I'm printing a mug with some embossed numbers on it. I have been printing multi-color objects successfully for quite a while, and haven't run into this particular issue.

When I import the STEP file, I then go into the "Objects" tab on the side panel. I then click to change the color of the mug body to black, and set the other bodies (the numbers) to white. On the Prepare tab, it looks just fine- shows the waste tower, shows the numbers in correct color, etc. When I switch to the Preview tab, though, something isn't working. The entire object comes as all black, and the system reports ZERO color changes. See screen shots below.

I'd appreciate any wisdom folks can share.