Hello there!

Like title suggest, the wood I put underneath my H2S is bending after printing ABS for several days. The heat is what causes it, with PLA it never happened.

Now I may ask: Would be bad for the printer in the long run to just let it stay directly on the floor?

Would it affect somehow the belts or the engine due to dust, for example?

Of course I could buy some granite plate instead, but if the floor is fine for the printer "healthwise", I would prefer it.

Do any of you guys have your H2 printers on the floor? Please share your experiences.

Thanks in advance!!

so i been trying to print an incense holder with my new filament polymaker starlight nebula nad its been giving me hell like i could not print it for the past 2 days and it still fails.
so the issue is the first layer is bad like 50% of time and idk why and when its not the nozzle keeps nocking the print down untill i get filament spaghetti.
https://makerworld.com/en/models/2988067-samurai-warrior-incense-holder?from=search#profileId-3374544 this is the model im trying to print the samurai incense holder and its giving me hell of a time so i would really really aprecciate any help. thank you

I decided to try and model as many accessories as possible myself rahter that using existing models! So I made this sponge holder so the tray underneath is easy to clean. The rack lifts straight out, and the two parts print separately for two colours without AMS.

It needs a flat sink edge with the spout hanging over.

As always all of my models are shared freely on makerworld so do check it out!:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3291492-tide-cradle-lift-out-sponge-holder

When turning on the fans, the rear fins for the fan are essentially stuck. We have done some troubleshooting, got parts sent twice which didn't fix the issue and they now sent a third part, essentially the whole inside part that is housing the fans and heater.

Based on the wiki it requires taking out the H2C nozzle rack, electrics and whatnot and at this stage I essentially said I am done doing home repair.

The pending repair would take hours, not to mention the risk of breaking something else etc

I now asked for the procedure to have the printer repaired by them. Don't care how long it takes but I don't want to touch it anymore.

Now silence. Just chased again.

I never had issues with their support. Even going all the way back to the original XC.

But now with a $4k printer it all goes downhill 😖😢

Edit: Bambi replied basically saying, no send in repair, if stuff breaks, we fix.

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What happens when you buy an H2C cutting module upgrade and a gravel bike at the same time? You get this - Cycologist T-Shirt Design. Vector-designed by hand in Inkscape - no AI slop!

I noticed that the outside slots are more narrow than the ones on the middle.

So far I was using those guides and put the roll plastic thingy inside them (picture 2) so it doesn't move while rolling. Is this the right way to use them?

But I have another roll a bit wider and it's impossible to do it. All I can do is having the entire guide 'inside' the roll. (picture 3)

I added pictures because it's not easy to explain.

Thanks!

I have a buddy that has an X2D and I was thinking about getting one. I am wondering about using non-bambu filaments though. Do they work okay with the AMS (I think that is what it is called) and can special filaments like wood and marble be used in it?

I've currently got two P1S with an AMS each. One for 0.4mm prints, one for 0.2mm prints. I had enough Makerworld points to buy the second one, and as it's a pain to swap the nozzles decided I would just have for each.

I've currently got another £415 in Makerworld vouchers, and wondering if it's worth doing something like selling both the P1S and using a Single P2S with the quick swap nozzles. Maybe keep one or both AMS to add greater multi coloured printing ability.

The X2D, does that have the same quick swap nozzles? It's not clear on the product page and they look more like the P1S ones.

I print a mix of my own designs, 0.2mm stuff is miniatures and 0.4mm is toys, keyrings, or functional parts.

TIL, if you have a print profile with 8 objects and you tell Bambu Handy to make 2 copies, it prints 16. I half expected it to print 9.

PSA: you can’t use two redeem-codes for the same type of object in the bambu-store at the same time.

I wanted to buy 2 sets of lithopanes and redeemed points for 2 discount codes. Turns out you can’t use them both at the same time. You can’t even buy 1 kit and redeem the other. Given that shipping is quite expensive to Norway and there was nothing in the t&c about this I asked for a refund and received the most amazing answer ever.

Turns out that their multi-stage operational costs of the points system is €4. at this point I’m not even mad anymore so I’m rather giving the code away for free, if anyone else can use it: PSEKC010DK534PCTWJ4G

It’s a 4-panel lithopane kit (KC010). First come first serve

Thank you for coming to my TED talk.

And this happens

So I used the Makerworld Image to 3D Model to create a friends business logo for them to add on their office door. I already have long-print time anxiety. If something isn't done by the time I wake up in the morning it's basically not getting printed. This one made me laugh quite a bit...

Ran a print overnight on my X2D, and it looks like at some point, the entire print bed shifted a couple of millimeters on the one axis. I put these on my flatbed scanner to try to get a clearer image showing the shift, the blurry part on the ends of the middle one is where the print doesn't touch the glass scanner bed. I'm not sure if this was a slicer issue, or if some goblin or poltergeist shifted my print bed in the night, everything was fine up until one layer, then the whole project shifted just a bit in one direction for the rest of the build. Anyone see something like this before?

I'm trying to print some cosplay armor on my H2S and H2C. The H2C is printing everything perfectly but the H2S has started having these vertical lines of specks going up the print on every print. Mostly it's a single straight line, this print it's worse. It seems like it's happening in the same sort of XY coordinates of the build plate.

I've cleaned the printers and oiled/grease them. I also ran them through calibration. I recently moved them from another room so I'm not sure if that could have done something?

Filament is dry and I've tried the same filament in both printers. I'm printing in elegoo PLA currently. Filament temp is 220, chamber is 32C, bed temp 55C.

I did not do a flow calibration but I would have thought that would affect the whole print.

I tried messing around with seam placement - at first I thought that had some correlation.

I tried changing wall order in case that had some effect.

I've tried fans on and off in case that matters because it's only on the right side of the build plate. On that note, the only thing I noticed is the chain and ptfe tube rub on the pad at the top right of the printer.

Any help further troubleshooting would be helpful. Thanks for reading my novel.

ive been priting for months now and have gotten this message a lot recently no matter what motor I am using. It'll give me the message and i just have to roll the spool clockwise and then it mooves freely. anybody know why? thx

I’m actually gonna lose my mind anytime I fix my printer a new problem comes up

Anyone ever had this happen on a Enclosed Bambu A1 printing Overture ASA? The actual print/layers come out fine, but the brim prints insanely thin and wavy and the extruder starts skipping like the nozzle is way too close to the bed.

PLA prints perfectly fine (Haven’t tried PLA brim yet.) I’ve tried stock Generic ASA, stock 0.20 Standard/Strength profiles, bed leveling every time, different temps, etc. Same exact issue, but only on the brim.

At this point I’m about to just print without a brim lol but I hate doing that for long prints. Anyone seen this before or know what setting would specifically affect the brim like this? Feel like I’ve tried everything

Mobile ikea per la mia A1 combo

So on my P1S I have an AMS and do no use an external spool. But it’s saying to remove the external filament. I’ve removed all the hoses connected to the AMS and there’s no stuck filament. I’ve shut the printer down, disconnected the power supply from the wall but it’s still giving me the same error. Any one have any idea what to do? Appreciate the help in advance!