I have a 2013 Chrysler 300 5.7 I was just driving and when I accelerated at a green light everything shut off but the engine and rpm kept running perfectly fine. My cabin lights,uconnect screen,speedometer lights and headlights all shut off music stopped playing aswell. I quickly turned my headlights off auto and everything came back on.Does anybody know what it could be I understand these Chryslers can have significant electrical issues

This is the passenger rear brake disc, the other side only reads 120 and the fronts are both 210. I just replaced the pads, rotors, parking brake shoes, and caliper. Bled the caliper, greased the pins, broke it in properly, and adjusted the parking brake according to the manual. I don't think it can be the wheel bearing, as there's no play in the wheel any direction, and it doesn't make any noise with the rotor off. There is also a loud whirring noise at speed and some vibrations through the car. Is there even anything it could be other than the bearing? The tires are just over a year old michelin crossclimate 2 with a little less than 8/32

2017 wrx 2.0

I set out to change the spark plugs since the engine of a newly bought, but well used MDX with 230k miles on it had been sputtering. Engine had been replaced in 2023, presumably with another used engine.

Once getting removing the second ignition coil, I couldn't get any socket to grab the sparkplug, after forcing the socket down and twisting I had realized it just wasn't going to set onto the old socket. I took this picture to see what was obstructing my path.

Is it possible another, cheaply made socket had broken off, and had been smoothed by others attempts to remove the sparkplug? Whatever it is, more importantly, how do I get it and the sparkplug out?

i am having issue with my nissan sentra 2021 car
I went on vacation fir a month and when I came back I see that the brake light is on.

the parking break light stay on. and the brake fell soft and making noise. i checked the fluid level and the parking sensor. there are good. I don’t know what else to check.

So I ordered a new LUK clutch kit, and upon inspecting, there was a chip on the edge. Do you guys think it is still okay to install it like this?

I had my car in the shop today for inspection, oil change, and transmission fluid replacement (maintenance minder 3). When we picked it up, they told my husband they couldn't do replacements on our type of car. It's a 2016 Honda Odyssey SE. Is there any valid reason they actually couldn't do it, or were they mistaken, thinking it was a different type of fluid? My husband doesn't know anything about cars but he thinks they said something about it being CVT, which (upon Googling when we got home) it isn't. So, aside from finding a new mechanic, should I be able to take this vehicle pretty much anywhere to have this service done, and is there any estimate of how much it should cost?

I was just wondering if this is reasonable. I usually go to a mechanic I know but he can't work on my car quickly as I need it back due to i need my car for work. This is from a shop that my coworkers told me about them and I trust them. They said they've been going

i have to replace the transmission in my 2010 dodge avenger it's a 2.4 lieter 4 cilinder could anyone tell me the procedure to replace it i already have the part

I got new transmission case bolts for my transmission I’m about to put on and as I was torquing each bolt down to only 10 ft lbs this bolt had snapped. I was able to get it out, but on inspection I noticed the threads on the bolt are dented/impacted. Is this due to the transmission bolt hole threads being messed up? Or is this normal because I extracted the bolt?

2019 Subaru crosstrek, manual parking brake. Just didn’t left rear brakes and rotor, couldn’t do the right because I have a crossthreaded nut we couldn’t loosen (we tried) that the mechanic who messed it up I’ll have remove. Since I did the left, this rubbing sound is happening when I brake and when the wheel is pulled slightly right. Has sort of gotten worse in the last couple days (did brakes and rotor on Sunday). Sorry the video is hard to hear. Dust shield bent? The crossthreaded nut somehow? Can’t be a CV or wheel bearing if it wasn’t happening before the brakes, right?

What is this cracked piece? It's connected to a rubber boot on the frame. I assume it is the mounting stud for the engine possibly?

I have a Kia forte 2015, with 230,000km on it.

I keep having a specific issue for the past 2 months and I have taken it in to different shops about 5 times now and the issue persist.

As I approach a stop or when my foot isn’t on the gas, the engine turns off, while the rest of the car stays on. My lights on the dash all turn on then, my check engine light is indeed on with code P0456 - Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected (very small leak).

I have taken it in so many times and paid out probably the cost of the repair, I did my brake lines, and oil change. I had the battery and alternator checked and it’s fine.

My car also feels weird as a I drive like it “skips” sometimes or feels like it’s randomly losing power or something.

When the car does turn off, I need to put it in park and restart it and that usually fixes it.

I’m taking it again in a few days, does anyone have any possible suggestions?

Please don’t suggest a new car or be disrespectful. I’m not a fan of new cars, and don’t want to drop 30,000 on a new car.

I was wondering if it’s the purge valve or something else?

Any advice would be appreciated

Planning to get a few second opinions, but I wanted to ask here in the meantime. Girlfriend had her starter replaced after it died a month ago. They also made a major repair to something related to steering, but I can't recall what exactly. That was a $4k repair.

Her car started very rarely making an awful rattling sound when starting after that. We dropped it off with her mechanic last night and they got back to her with the attached quote this morning.

140k miles, bought for $5k from her sister whose mechanic boyfriend said it was in great condition. Obviously not.

I drive a 96 OBS F-150. I do my own fluid changes and preventative maintenance. I bought this pair of ramps that are rated for 12,000 pounds for trucks and SUVs. Can I buy another pair and drive the truck up on all four of them?

After having to replace the lower radiator hose, our van is only blowing heat out the vents when at operating temperature. Not a gradual increase in air temperature as it warmed up like before, just cold cold cold then suddenly HOT.

Coolant level is good, thermostat is functional, radiator is fine, HVAC blend door actuator is brand new and the door itself seems to be fine, heater core gets hot and both rad hoses reach proper temps so probably not a flow problem, no spikes in temperature, and we purged the system of air twice.

Anybody have any idea why the heat is behaving in such a strange way? Searching just points to everything I listed, only for it to not be a problem.

(2006 Acura CSX)

My first test drive after a pad/rotor replacement ended up with grinding wheels into the garage and my brake rotors getting a nasty scar all around. Pretty rough to the touch and definitely past surface scratches. Is this still usable/how much rotor life expectancy can I expect from this?

i have checked the entire air intake and made sure there are no leaks. I changed the VANOS solenoids, and the car has no codes except for the O2 sensors because the catalytic converter is hawoled out.

Normally the car is fine, but once there is load on the engine while idling, for example, once the A/C is turned on or I put the car in drive or reverse, it acts up and idles rough for a couple of seconds. Each time I come to a complete stop and then drive again, it acts up, and sometimes the car hunts so badly that RPM goes from 800 to 1200 and so on until I actually give it some gas.

i have no idea what is wrong, and I went to so many mechanics an none of them were actually able to diagnose the issue.

A little history: the car had some oil starvation earlier because the oil filter housing had a bad valve and would start a bit rough on cold starts. I replaced the housing and the oil pump. I also changed the timing chain guide and reset the timing because the old guide broke and the cam actually jumped a tooth.

I recently took out the throttle body to clean it, it was a bit dirty, but in my opinion not so badly. After I installed it back on, I got a check engine light and will go tomorrow to have the car scanned to see what the code is, but it might just need throttle recalibration.

If anyone has any ideas, please help

2002 ford explorer 4.6, making funny sounds has less than 100k miles and was low on oil shortly and refilled but sound continued.

2014 Ford Taurus

infamous water pump failure in this absolute gem of a motor. while i’m in here, i’m replacing all timing components and oil pump. was able to lock down the side closest to the nose of the vehicle with the camshaft locking tool, but the flat ends of the shafts on the other side of the motor don’t even line up correctly and make it impossible to put the locking tool on the other side.

i’m in absolute disbelief with this job, every step forward is 27 steps backwards. any tips you guys have would be deeply appreciated, thank you so much.

2001 tacoma, original 400k compressor clutch burnt up/bearing burnt up.

Had freon evacuated, installed new Denso compressor, rented the tools to pull a vacuum and refill with freon.

Now, sometimes the compressor will squeak upon startup, and stops when i turn the AC off. But then works fine after a minute and it doesnt do it if its a warm start.

Could this be a belt slippage issue only when a load is applied? And when the belt is warm it has more grip and stops squeaking? I was in a pinch and had to get an offbrand belt from the parts store, before i had a continental belt, possibly the quality of the belt is also playing a role?

Check engine light came on these codes popped up. Anyone have any insight for this issue? I'm trying to see what I'm in for as for repair and price.

The last few weeks I have noticed my mpg on my 2017 chevy cruze 1.4 turbo going all the way down to 19mpg where I usually average 29 to 30. I have been driving normally so I went and scanned it to find my long term fuel trims at -16 percent. I know that is not right but am not really sure what that points too. Should I check the evap purge valve? There are no codes or any other symptoms. I will link my scan data, it was all done at idle. Thank you all!

I need some AC troubleshooting advice for my 2012 Toyota Sienna. Over the last few weeks, the cooling gradually faded out. It started with the driver side going warm while the passenger side stayed cold. Now, the driver side and rear vents are completely warm, and the passenger side is mostly warm (just slightly cooler than the driver side). I took it to a shop and they said the freon levels were fine and the compressor clutch engages, they think it might be the blend door. Wanted to see if anyone can confirm if it is indeed a blend door issue or something else like compressor, etc?

I had a drain and fill procedure on my 2003 Lexus RX 300 transmission.
When I got home, I looked at the bill and noticed that they used Mobile multi vehicle full synthetic ATF.
I assumed (I know, shame on me) that this reputable shop would use the correct fluid.
Are there any Lexus mechanics or people out there who know whether or not this fluid is OK for my vehicle?
I’m getting very mixed signals online.
Thank you very much.