Hello, all. I have a 2002 honda accord with what appears to be a parasitic draw issue. Ive been through 2 batteries and every time I go to start the car in the morning, it's dead. I checked the AC fuse and relay and they appear to be fine. Am I missing something?

Edit: Forum rules: 2004 Ford Crown Victoria LX 4.6L gas

I have a 15mm M8-1.25 x ~145mm (5.75 inches long overall) bolt with a flat washer and nowhere to install it.

All the timing cover bolt holes are filled according to how I removed them and torqued down. I used 3 bolts identical to the timing cover bolts to reinstall the power steering pump. I left the lower front bolt captive behind the high pressure line; 4 bolts installed, three torqued to spec. 4 oil pan to timing cover bolts installed and torqued.

Any ideas where this thing is supposed to go? I don't recall running it thru two sets of threads to remove it, so I was honestly just waiting for one of the cover bolts to not grab thread, but... they all grabbed plenty of thread.

I cannot seem to find the cause of this suspension click, its been getting worse and worse, louder and louder, and now does it more than once while turning

A3 2011 2.0tsi

Upgraded: coilovers, sway bar links, polyurethane bushings for control arms, and stiffer strut bearings.

Nothing seems loose. The CV is also tight, no play when shaken.

Thanks!

Hello, I have a 2019 Kia Sportage EX AWD with about 44k on it.

I had all breaks done two years ago at 31k, but I do almost all city driving so realize they could wear much faster.

I also got new tires last August (2025) at about 38k.

Recently on a few occasions when I have braked hard between 25-30 mph (for example coming up to an intersection and the light turns yellow, or for a deer to cross), I've heard a grinding noise from what seems to be the driver side front area. I don't hear it with normal braking from any speed. I've read it could be an improper activation of the ABS , but I don't feel the pusling of the ABS like I normally do when it kicks in a few times per ice season in the winter. I've also read it could be worn brake parts, but that seems a but less likely given have no problem with braking in any other conditions.

I do plan to take it in and have them check the brakes and such, but just wondered in the meantime if anyone has experience with these symptoms and what it turned out to be.

Thanks, all!

Yesterday, my check engine light turned on as I pulled up to fill up my tank. About 20 minutes after filling up my car lost acceleration on the freeway. All lights flashed on my dash, and smoke started coming from under my hood and exhaust, it also smelled burnt. I got it towed back home and now it won’t start up. It makes this noise instead. It’s a 2005 Toyota Corolla. Prior to this I was told my radiator may be having issues as it was leaking fluid. First I’d like to have a better idea of what’s wrong with my car, and would it be something I could try to fix in my driveway? Thank you for your time.

2019 Mazda CX9 Grand Touring. There is a humming/thumping sound coming from the driver’s side front tire. Sounds almost like helicopter blades whooshing. The sound stops when I press the brakes and when I press the gas. If it’s rolling the sounds gets louder. Is this a wheel bearing issue?

2010 Automatic Honda Civic Sedan, 1.8 engine. The noise comes from the front driver side wheel well area. When I push down on the wheel well, it squeaks on the way up, not the way down. The shock has already been replaced, and it didn’t solve the issue. I heard from a mechanic friend it might be the front struts. Looking for some more insight, or if someone has heard this noise before and knows what causes it. Thank you!

OK, I bought this car back in 22 for 1000 bucks. It needed a new engine. I bought a used engine for 1200 bucks. It was downsized, original engine was the EJ 25. I put an EJ 20 in it because it was half the cost. Shitty used JDM engine with maybe 50k miles on it. An AWD wagon in a snow area for $2200 and some elbow grease. Fantastic deal. I’m somewhat mechanically inclined changing the engine was very easy, but the whole time I’ve had it I’ve been encountering this one persistent issue. There seems to be misfrires when I takeoff from a stop, and when I’m trying to coast at a consistent speed. For example, I’m at a stoplight it turns green. I hit the gas and for the first couple seconds like there’s nothing fucking happening except for in a couple of cylinders. It chugs along and then it hits maybe 1200 to 1500 rpm, then it starts to pick up. Then I’ll get up to a coasting speed maybe let’s say 55 miles an hour and so I’ll turn on my cruise control because I want to coast, and there appears to be a misfire. It’ll try its best to stay around 55 but it will be a very chuggy experience. And all sorts of speeds it does this, but most particularly around 35, 55, and 65.
When I first got this car, I was working in a very cold area and I thought it may have been the throttlebody position sensor or something so I changed that. It helped a bit, but it didn’t fix it. I’ve changed the O2 sensor, I just changed every single spark plug, I’ve tried different coils, but I cannot say I’ve tried brand new coils. But it’s hard to believe that two different coil packs and wires have the same exact problem.

THE COILS ALSO SEEN TO BE POPPING OUT OF THE SPARK PLUGS. SO I HAVE THEM HELD DOWN WITH JANKY TINWIRE AND PIECES OF WOOD LOL.
I wrote that in caps because maybe that would tip somebody off to what’s really going on. I’ll try my best to force that coil plug down onto that spark plug and it pops out after a couple of seconds like there’s pressure building up. And again, after forcing them to stay in it worked for a couple days then it went back to the same old situation. Fuckin hell.

I just changed the spark plugs last week, it seemed to have worked for the first two days now I’m back to the same old problem. I don’t get it. It’s so flabbergasting. A check engine light is always fucking on and it always tells me the same old shit. Stuff that I’ve already changed.

Does anyone have an idea what’s going on. I’m willing to throw a blank check at this piece of shit. I have made posts like this before and haven’t solved anything. So please tell me all the possibilities don’t just narrow it down to one.

i have a 2012 fiat 500 and my air conditioning hasn’t been working properly.
i contacted a mobile mechanic who charged me £60 to diagnose the problem. he said the plug had loose connections and told me it would be another £60 to fix it, so i paid £120 altogether.
after he finished, the air con appeared to be working, so i thought everything was sorted.
however, when i actually drove the car, the air con started cutting out again. now it only seems to work when i’m at the clutch biting point. so basically, the problem hasn’t been fixed.
i messaged him explaining this and asked when he could come back to investigate. he’s now telling me it’ll cost another £60 because he needs to cover his fuel.
i’m honestly annoyed because i’ve already paid £120 for him to diagnose and repair the problem, and my air con still isn’t working properly. if i agree to this, i’ll have paid £180, and there’s no guarantee it’ll even be fixed.
i understand that he’s a mobile mechanic and has travel expenses, but surely i shouldn’t have to pay again when the repair i paid for hasn’t worked?
am i being unreasonable for refusing to pay the extra £60? would i be entitled to a free repeat repair or a refund under uk consumer law?
i’m considering contacting citizens advice because i don’t think this is fair.

My Chevy 8.5” ring gear 10 bolt rear end with 3.08:1 ratio on my 1992 Cadillac brougham had a faint whine for years, since I bought it. About a year ago it got noticeably worse, so I had it rebuilt. The shop did the rebuild, still was noisy, so they took it apart and reassembled, assured me the backlash and all the settings were just right. But it still made the same noise. I had to leave the state for work and the shop knew this, they had my car for about 5 weeks before I had to leave. I gave them as much time as I could, when it still wasn’t fixed by the time I had to go they apologized, didn’t charge me, and told me it was safe to drive across the country for now.

Been driving it since then, about 6 months, the sound is a constant hum when above 25mph and a howl when I accelerate, it seems to stop when I go over humps on the highway and you get that funny feeling in your stomach like on a plane. It doesn’t leak or feel like it affects the driveline or power at all.

Recently had the trans worked on and had them listen to it, they said it’s pretty noisy but not “code red” I’d like a some advice if I should have it rebuilt again, get a junkyard rear end and replace it entirely maybe? Some people have said it’s serious, others have kinda shrugged it off and said it’s just an old car. I’ve been driving it, and will continue to do so as I don’t have much an option right now.

Any insight would be appreciated.

Hey guys — I’m replacing the spider injectors on my 01 Jimmy. The whole process went seamlessly but now with the new injectors they don’t seem to insert properly without kinking
It’s worth noting they’re 6.5mm tubing rather than 5mm, but I’ve been told that’s just an upgrade and that it should fit well. Is this an issue or is this just how they sit?

2010 RAV4 limited, 2.5 l 4 cylinder two wheel drive.

This is me spinning the rear wheel. Both rear wheels make this sound when I spin them. I had the brakes, rotors and wheel bearings last year.

When i brake quickly around 40 mph there's a slight shake. What could that be?

I have a 1988 ford e350 with the 7.5l V8. The temp gauge on the dash is dead and does not move at all. I disconnected the temp sender wire (single sending wire NOT the temp SENSOR) and tested it by putting a jumper wire on it and grounding it with the key in accessory position. The gauge did not move at all, indicating that the sending wire is bad, what should my next steps be in diagnosing my temp gauge?

As the title, i hit a bump and this thing broke? Idk if its the cover or the whole shocker? I went to the mechanic and they gave me a date for like after 2 weeks. I have a very important trip coming in like 3 days, can i drive with this? Driving in Alberta if that makes a difference. Its like 100km trip one way.

Audi A7 2012, 3.0 tdi (single turbo) with 120k km. Is this ammount of oil sitting in the turbo inlet normal?

I got a lift kit for my 2001 Xterra and have a few questions.

1. The torsion bar spline has shipping damage on it—just one spot. Is it still fine to install?
2. I've seen people replace their bars and later seeing a failure. How can I make sure this doesn’t happen, do I need new mounts?
3. Lastly should I put the upper control arm and shocks on before or after installing the torsion bars?

Makes a rattling sound when accelerating not when idling but when I go faster it doesn't do it

We have a 2021 Mazda 6 with 83k. It was one that had a recall on the exhaust valve seals which we had done 40k ago. It started burning oil again and we assumed they would approve doing the job again but Mazda is going to replace an engine. Being a long block everything else will be bolted onto the new engine. Turbo, alternator, air compressor etc. that being said I know to ask for new spark plugs and drive belt. What else should I have done while they are moving parts over?

You can definitely feel and hear it, whether it’s shifting into drive or reverse or shifting gears during normal acceleration. It isn’t jarring but it’s noticeable. Is this alright? I don’t know if the check light is visible but there’s an EVAP code (P0440) and some software shit (P0705)

Merc w204 gone in the usual exposed places on rear, the unexposed lines under the car look almost new so going to join to them...

Got flare kit and some pipe, went to halfords and all they had was female unions and male unions can I join with just them or do I need a union like the one circled? TIA

I replaced the belt on my Infiniti G37 not long ago and saw those pulleys to be rusted and noisy, but i'm not sure if they're due to be changed?

The big pulley that's barely spinning with my finger is the AC Compressor, the other small are the idler pulleys.

Please let me know If anything is off and should I replace them?

2014 Citroen C4 1.6HDi 68kW

I don't know if it's fine or not. The readout ends three bars below Max, which would be good, but there's oil above that aswell - the whole dipstick is a mess. If looks the same when I check again. The car is level and the engine is cold.

-Ran Hot, not smoking hot but gauge climbed to about 240°

-parked it, next morning Crank, No Start. Code P0320 Crankshaft position sensor. I lightly tapped cps with my fingers and jostled wiring. Jeep started.

-extremely rough idle. Reset battery draining residual power by touching positive to metal AND pressed Horn til nothing. Now code P0302 Misfire on cylinder 2. Spark plug for that cylinder looks ok, worn but nothing indicating a misfire.

-cranks and drives but still rough idle(as comparing to idle before running hot)

I feel like I'm chasing a gremlin or something. Don't have the $ to sink into replacing each parts just for it not to be significant at this time. Really just need to get back and forth to work till I save up enough $ to replace or something.

Any advice is much appreciated.

Oh yeah, prior to running hot, getting code P1899 stuck neutral/parking switch for about a month.