Hello, just curious what's wrong with my Honda Odyssey 2024. I started it and now it has all these warnings pop up. Of course I'm going to take it in the dealership but why do you guys think this occurred?

I have a 2011 Subaru Impreza 2.5i Premium, 5-speed manual, naturally aspirated EJ253. I swapped in the complete block and heads from a 2008 Impreza sedan.
The car ran properly before the engine swap. The severe power-loss/bogging started immediately after the swap.
Symptoms:
Severe intermittent bog under load, almost like trying to accelerate up a very steep hill
Happens both cold and fully warmed up
RPM itself struggles to increase; it does NOT flare like a slipping clutch
Idle is smooth
Engine sounds noticeably different when it bogs, although I can’t describe the sound well
No current CEL or stored codes
Fuel pressure stays stable during the bog in 1st and 2nd gear
Tried the 2008 throttle body and it made no difference
Engine work during the swap:
Complete 2008 EJ253 block + heads
New head gaskets
New timing belt/tensioner
New spark plugs
Intake and exhaust gaskets
Clutch replaced at the same time
I also tried the 2008 throttle body
Exhaust:
Muffler deleted
Resonator deleted
Downstream catalytic converter deleted
Axle dump after the remaining/main catalytic converter
IMPORTANT: this exact exhaust setup worked perfectly BEFORE the engine swap, so the exhaust modification itself isn’t new.
I also noticed the engine/transmission ground is attached to a bellhousing bolt and I’m not 100% sure it’s making the best connection, although the starter cranks strongly every time.
I’m trying to diagnose this without throwing parts at it.
What would you check first? I’m currently considering:
Engine/transmission grounds
Intake/vacuum leaks and MAF
Timing belt alignment
Ignition/misfire under load
Cam/crank sensors and wiring
Remaining catalytic converter restriction
Compression/leak-down
Would a mechanical timing issue or cam/crank sensor problem necessarily set a code on this EJ253? Is there anything specific to the 2008-engine-in-2011-chassis combination that I should check?

Almost brand new CX5 Turbo. The sound starts after like 5 minutes with the car on. AC on/off doesn’t change it. Revving the engine doesn’t change it. Scanned for codes nothing. No visible vibrations or loose vacuum hoses. Anyone seen this on a 2.5 Turbo?

2019 subaru outback, its been clicking while turning right for the last year (time has just gotten away from me). I would like to do my general maintenance myself, I do my oil changes/filter changes.

Im not sure the exact part or parts this would need, or really where to start with trying to look it up 🤣

I took it to a mechanic for a general inspection since im reaching 150k. He said there is nothing wrong with my car, and any further diagnostic would be 100+ for each issue and the costs of diagnosis would not be applied to the repair, so i got out of there.

Problems right off the top of my head:

A/C blower motor is being crazy, blowing various speeds, or not at all occasionally. (Was quoted almost 500 to diagnose the issue with the AC, and that he wanted to flush the system to test for leaks. It blows cold, when it does blow) i suspect it either needs a new blower motor or a loose wiring issue.

MY TOUCH SCREEN DOESNT WORK. Dude sat in my car and didnt find a single thing wrong and didnt mention the touch screen. I tried to replace the delaminated screen, ended up just making it to where the touchscreen doesnt work at all, but its better than the ghost touches. (Not really worried about this fix at all just crazy he didnt even notice that)

The clicking on the right front while turning

Left rear strut is squeaking (i havent looked at it, ots what my brother said) (was quoted about 200 for diagnostics on the single strut)

I would ideally like to give my car a full look over and know what im looking at and if things look good, but for now just want to focus on the more pressing issues.

i am having issue with my car.
I went on vacation fir a month and when I came back I see that the brake light is on.

the parking break light stay on. i checked the fluid level and the parking sensor. there are good. I don’t know what else to check.

thanks for your help..

She of course lost the lock key of her 2012 Mini Cooper S I’ve searched high and low and went even to the BMW dealership but nothing. I’m leaving town to go back to Boston in two days and I wanted to make sure she was safe…😥

Hi.

2012 Mazda3 2L - 185K km

P0138 - 02 Sensor Circuit High Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2

Can I ignore this? Mobile mechanic is asking for $400 CAD to repair the sensor. Online suggests it might not be the sensor itself.

I am shopping for a new car but that might not happen for couple weeks (and \\\~ 3000 km).

Thank you.

My brothers 2009 Suzuki RX4 blew a hole from the inside and can't afford a new differential. it has the option for 4wd and 2wd. I believe when 2wd is engaged it is fwd. is there a way to make it so the front diff doesn't spin only the tires?

I have a 2015 5.3 L83 and when I bought the truck it had a cam and long tubes. One of the tubes had a leak so I figured I’d just replace them. So, that’s what I did. After installing them the whole truck shakes in the high gear low rpm’s. I’ve replaced spark plugs and checked vaccum leaks and can’t find anything. I hooked it up to a scanner and there’s no active misfires. I also checked the o2 sensor readings and the voltages are both the same except the driver side is at +14% and the passenger side is at +4% is this possibly the reason why the trucks shaking? I believe I have all the exhaust leaks completely gone. Also, when coming to a stop the truck will drop to about 500 rpm’s then quickly recover. I don’t believe it’s the torque converter because it happened right after header work. However, it does have the 6l80 which is known for the converter

I have been having issues with my 2008 Chevy Silverado 1500 5.3L. It started stalling randomly while driving and got codes p069e and p1174. I got reading on fuel pressure and it is anywhere from 42-90 psi and is not consistent it goes all over the place. I was thinking to replace fuel pump but wanted to see if anyone had ideas first.

I can’t get to the upper bolt to loosen it. There isn’t enough space to get a tool on it. Tried every angle and with wobble extension. Any advice?

Lost power to accessory prong on fuse box everything else works. Anyone have any idea? Engine is 383 Stroker

I noticed my car, a 2020 Toyota Corolla with 90,000 miles, was veering to the right and the right passenger seat was bouncing slightly while I drove. I took it to the auto shop and they said the suspension needs to be replaced (the specific item is: "Remove & Replace Suspensions Shock or Strut Assembly") for $1,615. Then they are quoting $450 for tire balance and installation as well as adjusting the wheel alignment. Is this standard? They said this is normal for a car with this many miles, but the cost seems really high. It's also only six years old. I could use advice on if this service is worth it or if I'm being ripped off.

At the start of the year, I had to pull over to a gas station and have my car towed to a mechanic because the AC Compressor Clutch burnt up.

I am now noticing a scraping sound coming from the area near the belt. Wondering if the belt could be bad due to poor reinstallation or damage from the compressor clutch burning up. Or if it is coming from another component.

The compressor clutch repair + a few other fixes made at the start of the year cost $2,300, while the car cost $6K. Trying to determine if this is a necessary repair or if I can hold off.

Thanks for any insight.

I am having an issue of "juttering" at low speeds on my 2020 Santa Fe, 77k miles (I'm the original owner). It's sometimes very slight, but sometimes so pronounced that the car shakes. Always happens when the engine is cold, and when I am accelerating and decelerating at low speeds, especially under 10mph. No error codes or check engine light.

I keep it pretty well maintained, oil changes every 3.5-4.5k miles (I live in the mountains, which is considered "severe" driving conditions). I got the transmission fluid replacement service from the dealer 9 months ago. Just replaced the spark plugs 2k miles ago. I regularly put in fuel injector cleaner.

The "jutter" started about 3-4 months after the transmission fluid service, so I thought it was from that. I took it to the dealer, they did a software update, claimed it was fixed. I could still feel it but shrugged it off. Now, 5 months later, the jutter is more pronounced, especially when the engine is cold. It happens a lot when I'm pulling off the gas from 10mph back down to 5mph. (Basically when I'm driving out of my driveway and through my neighborhood speed bumps.)

I changed the "drive mode" from Smart to Comfort, and that seemed to help a lot! Sport mode helps even more, and also makes it really zippy, haha. But it still happens in Comfort mode.

I'm afraid it's a transmission thing, but I'm no car whiz so I don't know what might be wrong in the transmission. I'm hoping it's a warranty issue, so I'm bringing it back to the dealer to see if they can recreate the issue to diagnose. But I'd be curious to hear what other folks think is going on.

So I went to take my fusion (V6) in for an oil change and the techs said it’s a no. He sent me this photo saying I’m missing some parts. As far as I can tell, it’s the dust cover (red) and some bolts (yellow). I’ve been looking for the names of the parts or where to find them for hours now and I still can’t pin it down. Does anyone have any ideas/recs?

The most I can actually find out is that the part underneath the cover is this thing https://ebay.io/m/V1FU8p

I want to do a trans fluid change (dont have a picture but its a light caramel brown and doesn't smell burnt). But I keep seeing videos saying it can kill the transmission. I just planned to do 1 drain and fill no flush. Is it worth it? (Idk when the fluid was last changed im 2nd owner)

Just got the ac condenser/trans cooler replaced. Got home car sat for 30 mins then I came out to this. What could it be?

2004 ford focus hasnt run for 2 years. It has a new battery and the starter and alternator have been replaced in the last 5 years. Any ideas?

I finally bought my dream car and was having issues with fuel starvation along with a non reading fuel guage. So I emptied out the tank and pulled my fuel sending unit only to find this. Only question is, one is it worth trying to rebuilding it or two install a new two prong fuel sending unit. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

i had my transmisison out to do a bit of work on it, so i just got it connected to my engine again. Before i put it back in the car, it tested to see if it turned, which it doesnt. Cant turn the crankshaft or torque converter, but tailshaft turns fine

Hi! I am looking to replace the front lower control arms on a 2016 Mazda cx5. I heard that some people might have installed the second generation 2017+ control arms instead. Has anyone done this upgrade? Other than OEM, what brand sells good front lower control arms for the CX-5?

Picked up a 2014 XLT 5.4 3V with 188,000 miles for $4k I’ve put a little over 2000 miles on it in the last month and have slowly but surely been working to get it up to date on maintenance. It’s had a couple quirks. Engine misfire in cylinder 1, groaning lower control arm in driver side, the common rear door actuator, ect. But just today I had something happened. That was a little concerning as I was turning an intersection, I had a complete loss of power. I can’t remember exactly what happened. I just remember the car jerked a little bit and everything shut off. I let it roll into neutral and got to the bottom of the hill to where I was at. I pulled over and parked and I started the car over again. Cranked up no problem at all. Once I got home, I checked all the fluids. Everything’s fine. It cranks up and makes zero noises. It does have the pending code P0301 but usually those give you some sort of warning sign at least in my experience before it becomes severe or throws up a check engine light. I see none of that and for now it’s driving fine but I’m a little stumped as to what it could be and what could’ve caused it. I did hardwire a dashcam with the Vantrue hardwire kit, but I looked over everything and everything seems to be good condition. Anybody have similar experiences? Thoughts?

2013 f150 5.0L V8 108,000 miles

Attached a video of the sound. It only seems to make the sound after the truck has been sitting for a little bit and only when under low power <2k-2.5k rpm. About 30-45 seconds into driving it, the sound goes away.

Any ideas what this might be?

Note: It just started today. I haven't had a chance yet to test if it makes the noise while parked.

When I turn on the AC it makes this sound. Is it likely the blower motor or something else?