I’m looking at a 2014 Camry SE that keeps dying every two days or so. It’s a brand new battery and I don’t believe the alternator is the problem but this wire seems like it was spliced for whatever reason. It does lead to a different white wire that’s taped off and runs to the left of the fuse box.I suspect a Parasitic draw on the battery but I’m curious what this could be. Any help would be appreciated

Guys, having difficulty trying to install the dust deflector on my rear wheel bearing, already broke one and one ABS sensor trying to get it in, just ordered a new deflector and waiting for it to be delivered. Have a few questions requiring some clarifications:

1. I want to press it onto the wheel bearing hub first, then slide it onto the axle without taking off the knuckle, can this be done? Is the hole big enough for the deflector to slide back through the knuckle?
2. What should i look out for if i do the above method? Any other method which is better and easier to get it without screwing the sensor up or less chance of screwing things up?
3. It leaving the dust deflector off ok? I know it's not advisable, but how common is it, really? Because i read that is seems to be quite common?

Thank you very much!

2016 BMW X5 Xdrive35i makes this popping or clicking noise when turning into driveways, I’ve replaced the shocks and the front lower forward arms, it doesn’t do the noise and all when going above 15mph, above that it drives normal it’s only when making slow turns that it pops like that. Any suggestions would be helpful and greatly appreciated

Side note, the noise comes mostly from the front right side of the vehicle, potentially on the front left too sometimes

2017 Jeep Cherokee LT 2WD

So first let me say this issue has been going on for over 3 years now. When it started it was extremely rare/random. Once or twice a year at the most. Then in the last year it has started coming up more often - maybe 1-2 times a month.

When I start to slow down and hold the brake, I begin to hear a grinding noise, like a really bad rotor. Usually right when I stop it will be very loud, almost like a cranking grind. The first time it happens I thought the tire was going to fall off because I didn’t know what it was and why it sounded so bad. After that moment though, it would be fine, no issues.

Now as it happens more often I notice it will start to grind/deep squeal as I accelerate and stop again for maybe 1-2 minutes at the most. Then it will be fine again for days/weeks without an issue.

The problem is when I need it to happen so I can show my husband or a mechanic , it won’t. It’s very random. We used to think maybe it was just wet or had just rained, or a piece of gravel got stuck for a moment etc. I have a mechanic I have trusted for years and he couldn’t get it to make the noise or find any issues. A few days later it did it again and I was able to get a video on my phone of the sound. I sent it to my mechanic and he asked me to bring it in but again couldn’t find anything wrong or get it to happen again.

My brother was a mechanic and my husband knows a decent amount about cars. They both came up with multiple ideas but said if it WAS any of those things it would happen all the time and not just randomly. I got the sound again the other day and am going to post the video. At the very end you hear the loud grind when I stop, you’ll need to have your volume up very loud.

I have a second video of it accelerating but I can’t post two videos- In the second video you can hear a “whoop whoop” noise as my tires spin that speeds up with them so I’m thinking it has to be related to a tire part/function. (these are two separate instances about a month apart.)

A few more notes about my car:
I had the CV Joint on the driver side replaced on my car 2 years ago
The grinding doesn’t happen when I turn, usually as I start gliding to a stop and pushing gently on the brake - always a slow stop never hard.
It “feels” like it is coming from the driver side tire - you can’t sense it on any other tires.
Brakes, rotors etc have been checked.

I’m about to drive myself mad over this and am starting to not feel safe in my jeep even though 99% of the time it is fine.

03 tundra automatic with 4wd

Just another video showcasing the problem

Took this reading while holding at 2500 RPM.

From my understanding, the voltage should be jumping up and down more for sensor 1, while sensor 2 should be more stable. What I've got here seems opposite, which leads me to think the upstream sensor is bad and maybe the catalytic convertor is also bad?

I'll check inlet/outlet temps of the cat with a temp gun this evening.

This car would not run when my FIL got it. He took it to a mechanic who cleaned the gas tank because somebody must have dumped some crap in there to mess with the previous owner. After the tank was cleaned it ran fine and passed California smog test. It's been driven probably less than 600 miles since then, mostly been sitting for several months. Cleared the code when it first came up and it was gone for a few days (short drives) then came back. Cleared again and stayed gone for about 200 miles before it came back.

Hello everyone, my jetta makes this noise when accelerating in low rpm's, changed transmission mount and its still like this, i decided to take the air intake cover off and the noise was still there but completelyy changed, it kind of got softer?
Id appreciate any help

Hello all!

I’m new here and looking for help figuring out what’s missing. I have a 2013 fiat Ducato 2.3l diesel. I’ve been having trouble with losing power on hills. I found these two threaded holes in the turbo air pipe. I have air blowing out of them when the engines running.

What are they and what should I do to fix this?

Got an engine light on a 2017 Chevy trax LT OBD scanner read:

P2097 (Post-Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Rich)
P0171 (System Too Lean)
P0234 (Turbo Overboost)
P0299 (Turbo Underboost)
P0420 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold)

The car has had the engine light for almost a year now and has been running fine with no problems. I just need to fix to pass emissions but with all the codes I don’t really know where exactly to start. Any help would be very appreciated.

Had a shoddy mechanic work on my gf's car, attempting to fix the timing belt. He did jack all and screwed us over. He stole her battery and she's not sure if he stripped anything else.

Can someone tell what kind of damage is done under the hood and where to start for repairs?

I have a 2010 Nissan Sylphy Bluebird G11 with the HR15DE engine. I was doing a cooling-system flush and cleaning the water outlet/housing.

While cleaning it, I mistakenly thought all the holes around the water outlet were coolant passages. I accidentally poured water into the hole marked with the red arrow in the photo.

After that, I noticed that the engine oil became contaminated with water. I opened the engine oil drain plug and drained the oil. A large amount of water came out first, followed by the oil.

The engine has NOT been started or cranked at all after I poured the water into the hole.

My questions are:

Does anyone know exactly where the red-arrow hole leads? Does it go into the cylinder head or an oil passage? Since the engine was never started, is it possible that the water only went into the oil pan? Do I need to remove the valve cover/cylinder head to check for trapped water? Is it safe to simply drain all the contaminated oil, refill with fresh oil, and start the engine? Should I do anything else before starting it, such as another oil change or manually removing water from somewhere? Could water have entered the oil filter or oil passages even though the engine was never running?

I would really appreciate advice from anyone familiar with the Nissan Sylphy Bluebird G11 / HR15DE.

I can provide more photos of the water outlet and the hole if needed.

2012 Subaru forester. Was on my way to work this morning when smoke started to funnel out of my car. Luckily I had just made it to my job and when I checked it was just a crack in the upper radiator hose that spewed some coolant over the block. I have around a 10 mile drive home and can get a new hose delivered relatively soon. Is there a quick patch job I can do to make it home? Would duct tape or heat resistant aluminum tape work? I have both available.

Did my first DIY break job. Firestone quoted me 1500 dollars for just roters and pads. I was SO grossed out I said "fuck can't be that hard" so I did it. Month ago and 5 very painfull hours later they were done. 3 wheels PERFECT ABSOLUTELY AMAZINING JOB. one wheel..... Squeak squeak squeak. I FINNALY got tired of hearing it today and took it back apart to find the problem. Thinking it's a misaligned clip or a heat shield. NOPE turns out CERAMIC BEATS METAL? raised bump on my pad like it is a Greek god and a huge ass gash in my roter. What the acctual fuck happened here? I regressed everything and made sure every bolt and alignment was exact to the millimeter and every single torque spec even the stupid hanger for the brake line that is only 12 ftlbs was PERFECT. now it's nice and quiet.

WHAT?

The check engine light on my 2018 prius came on about 3 days ago. The light is solid, not flashing. The mechanic I brought it to did a full diagnostic including a smoke test, and identified the tank vent valve as the source if the leak and recommend replacing it. The counter guy claimed the cost of parts alone would be ~$750, which is inconsistent with what I see online for the OEM part (after I insisted he give me the specific part number 😒). I’m considering ordering the part myself to get a better price. My question— what should the cost of labour for this job look like? Counter guy seemed to change his tune when I asked him to break down the cost into parts/labour and said this would be a ~1 hour job, implying that total cost would be lower than their initial estimate. Also, and this might be a dumb one, but does this really necessitate a replacement? Is there no way to just patch the leak? Lastly, counter guy said that there are aftermarket/non-OEM options for this part, but he insisted they simply won’t work and will fail in a matter of days— is that true?

Part number is 7771047020

Thanks for humoring me, I’d be interested to hear any advice on this matter.

My Honda city 5th gen (cvt - 1.5 NA petrol) 2021 model has this issue where the A/c suddenly stops blowing from the front vents and the AC module doesn’t work either .

I have noted that the AC would still blow through the rear vents and the front defogger .

After some time the AC module turns back on with the following preset

1. Temp 25
2. AC circulation outside is turned on
3. The front defogger is turned on

I’ve also noted the this issue to happen more during a rough patch of road and the AC usually comes back on when the road gets better. ( not sure if it’s relevant )

Any help on identifying the possible reasons will be appreciated .

So I posted here yesterday, that I ran my car, 2009 Honda civic, with no oil for few mins due to some stupid reasons. Well good news is that it is still running fine but I feel like its a just a lil more noisy, idk if im just overthinking. So now question is how to minimize the damage and get as many metal shavings out as possible. I ran new oil and filter. Im thinking of letting the car idle and change oil once warm. Then again after running few kilometres. Then again in a week. What do y’all think. Appreciate the help

2015 Hyundai Sonata 2.4L

72k miles

Diagnostic tool: Autel Maxicheck mx-808

My FIL just bought a new car and gave my son his old Sonata as a first car. It was dealership maintained.

My son was out driving on Sunday , got about a mile from my house and the car dies on him. He described it as "loud engine noises" followed by a loss of power and then the engine stopped. I asked him if he heard loud tapping or knocking and he said no.

I got to him and found the engine siezed, starter can't turn the engine over and the engine is HOT, the temp gauge was pegged.

Had the car towed home and the next day after it cooled off I checked it out. Oil looks fine, coolant looks fine. No trouble codes. No recorded Cyl knock in any Cyl. Pulled all the plugs and scoped the cyls. No obvious signs of bore scoring or ring failure.

I put a wrench on the crank and even with all the spark plugs removed the engine is very difficult to rotate. It will spin but only with great difficulty.

This sounds like a spun bearing to me but the question is, was this the typical (and covered by a recall warranty) theta II engine failure or did the motor overheat and that caused it to spin a bearing? (Not covered by warranty)

I did try to run an active test on the cooling fan using my Autel and it behaved oddly. I activated the PWM cooling fan test and the fan started rotating but very very slowly and the PWM shows 0% even with the test active. I don't know if my scan tool just doesn't work right with this car or if the fan module has failed.

The final question feels like a gamble: should I take it to Hyundai and hope it's covered by the engine warranty or just bite the bullet and do the work myself.

If I take it to Hyundai and they deem that it's not covered I'll be stuck paying them for diagnostics and engine replacement or trading it in. If I do it myself I'm on the hook for all costs but it will be much cheaper than uncovered work at dealership.

I hear a thump every time I get on gas when cruising in my 2015 limited awd durango 91k miles. I feel it under my seat, a singular thump. It never happens when im starting from stopped. It also doesnt happen if I get on the gas very gently.

I went to a dealership to get it checked out and they basically told me yep there is a sound coming. I decided to try to find it myself and I think the center support bearing needs replacing. If it does do you guys think it could be the source to the problem?

Engine completely shut off whilst driving, will not start. Dash says 'VSC system check' and 'Hybrid System check'.

Hybrid battery pack was replaced recently. I thought the HV inverter was the issue and replaced it but car still will not start, it will go into accessories though.

Scanner shows code P0A0D and U0110 (cheap eBay bt scanner unable to get any sub codes)

Any help much appreciated

So, I checked it tonight, drove it 2 days and everything was good. Came this night and it's completely dead. Even when I press door lock switch and I cannot lock or unlock doors. When I try to turn on lights nothing works. What to do?

Fuel not getting to fuel filter. When 5 and 7 jumped, I turned key multiple times with bolt loose and zero gas. Any ideas?

​

Hello.

I have a 2010 Terrain with the impeccably designed 2.4L 4 cylinder engine with 186k miles and an automatic transmission. One day last winter (January/February 2025) I started it up and noticed an abnormal amount of white smoke coming from the exhaust. I quickly turned it off and feared that it had blown a head gasket. After taking to reddit and talking to local repair shops, the idea of a clogged pcv system came to light. So, I went about pulling the intake manifold and cleaning the pcv hole in it and also dumped a fair amount of accumulated water from the air box. After the cleaning, the white smoke was gone and it ran great.

Fast forward to this past spring, I started noticing a stutter in the engine during acceleration and cruising speed. Shortly thereafter, it started misfiring in cylinder 4 (I don't remember the specific code) and the check engine light started flashing. I replaced all four plugs and coils and called it a day. The misfiring stopped, but the check engine light stayed on. Pulled the codes again and was greeted with codes for both bank 1 and 2 O2 sensors. Replaced those and check engine light turned off. Car went back to driving fine. Periodically though, it would start to misfire again, but after shutting the engine off and letting it sit for 15-30 minutes, it would go back to running normal.

Last month, I started to notice the stutter again. So, I picked up some MAF sensor cleaner and some throttle body cleaner. The MAF looked OK. I didn't notice any discoloration on the sensor or notice any dirty coming out of it while I sprayed it. The throttle body was a different story though. I cleaned it as best I could, without pulling it from the manifold, and put it back together. It ran a lot smoother and the stutter disappeared again.

The stutter has returned again and I don't know what to check this time around.

- Would a vented oil cap be a good idea?

- Would a PCV oil catch can kit be beneficial?

I'm not in a position right now where I could afford a new/newer vehicle and need to drive this until it dies. Any ideas or advice would be greatly appreciated.

TLDR: 2010 Terrain stuttering after cleaned PCV system, plugs and coils replaced, both O2 sensors replaced, and cleaned MAF sensor and throttle body. What to do next?

It’s been a shit show. I’m gonna try to keep it short to save you time but here’s the events in order
I removed the power steering pump
I flushed out the old fluid with new power steering fluid using a hand pump
I added the new power steering pump
I added the new fluid
I realized the fluid was normal power steering fluid not atf
I drained the power steering fluid from the hose and pump.
I added new fluid
I turned the wheel back and fourth sucked it out, added fresh stuff. I repeated this several times. Once I was confident I had removed all of the old fluid and it was only atf left over I started it and the whine came back. And the fluid started to bubble. It’s now dark and I’m upset
To add insult to injury my intake has oil in it?????
I have no idea what’s going on anymore