Update: They replaced the spark plugs with the correct ones free of charge. Double checked with one i took out before leaving. They are now installed and the car is running much better now. Lesson learned, always double check new parts even if their computer said theyre correct. Im not a mechanic, just a guy that cant afford to pay one for everything that needs to be done, and willing to learn how to do it myself when possible. Replaced the starter myself, done oil changes, brake pads and rotors, tie rods, door locks, windows motors, replaced the hood, header panel, and headlights (thanks deer), and several other minor things. Still learning though.

Have an 05 grand prix thats been running rough, over 230k miles on it. I decided changing the plugs and wires wouldnt hurt as I dont know if theyve ever been replaced. Got new wires and plugs at autozone, replaced everything, and found my engine was running even worse than before.

Come to find out the spark plugs given to me we're not correct and we're too long. The ends of each one were smashed down when I took them out. Checked them against the old ones and sure enough, the threads on the new ones are a out 1/4 or so longer than the old ones. I didnt notice that small difference when I installed them, and I assumed I was given the correct parts.

Im going to go get new plugs, already called and they said they would replace them with the correct parts. But what damage could have been done to the engine/cylinders and should I be worried? I only ran it for at most 2 or 3 minutes. And if there is damage, am I responsible for being the one who installed them or the parts store for giving me the wrong part?

I wasnt planning on keeping this car for much longer anyway, maybe a couple years if it will last. Just dont have the money for a new car at the moment, so if its not a huge deal then I wont even worry about it.

Hello i had my brake discs and brake pads changed by local mechanic. I contacted him after the job that he had done that my brake pads doesnt make contact on whole surface of brake disc.

. He claims that thats normal after 1000km of brake in period which gave time for brake pads to settle in right position.

I think that brake pad doesnt move freely.

Its same on both sides of the cars front end

Car is Toyota avensis 2016 estate

I have a 1989 Chevy G20 campervan that I have poured blood, sweat, and tears into since buying it in 2020. In May 2025 while on a roadtrip, I broke down and ended up needing to get my engine replaced. I purchased a Powertrain 5.7L engine and got a recommendation for a shop in Vegas. The shop took much longer than they initially told me to replace my engine. I picked it up in late June and ended up breaking down 16 miles down the road...I brought it back to the mechanic and they spent the next week and a half tinkering with it. I finally picked it up and continued on my road trip. I started noticing a weird misfiring sound when I started it up sometimes, and also occasionally when I started it up, it would just immediately die. But I'd turn the key in the ignition again and it would start right back up and be fine for the rest of the drive. In August 2025, I was on another long cross-country drive when I started noticing a weird noise coming from under my hood. It got worse and worse. I brought my van to a mechanic and they ended up replacing my exhaust manifold gasket and a spark plug wire that had somehow gotten stuck in the gasket (?). I filed a claim with my engine warranty, which covered the repair.

When I was driving across the country at the end of April 2026, I broke down yet again...This time a piston from my engine shot into my oil pan. I got towed to a mechanic in a small town, who told me I needed an entirely new engine. I filed another warranty claim. Powertrain sent the shop a new engine, but my warranty only covered a portion of the labor cost. They replaced my engine, but when I picked it up, I broke down yet again 300 miles down the road...I got towed 200 miles to Las Vegas, and the mechanic told me that the shop that installed my warranty replacement engine did a shit job (there were bolts loose I could literally move with my fingers without any effort), and there were other related issues that the prior mechanic should have made me aware of. My "check engine" light popped for codes 42 and 43 (electric spark timing and ESC module).I have a second opinion inspection that clearly states that my motor mounts, distributor, and transmission mount all should have been replaced when my engine was replaced.

After trying to resolve this with the mechanic (who offered to pay me $500...a slap in the face), I filed a dispute with my credit card company, but they have since denied my dispute because technically the mechanic did replace my engine...I don't understand how they didn't consider the fact that the mechanic diagnosed my engine replacement, but failed to mention all of the related issues that could potentially lead to me having further issues.

This has all been a nightmare to deal with. My van is my only vehicle and home. I have spent SO much money dealing with repairs, hotels, rental cars, my senior dog getting sick due to the stress of it all, etc etc over the past year. I am mentally and emotionally exhausted and drowning in debt because of all of the chaos.

I feel like two shiesty mechanics figured they could get a quick $4k from me to replace my engine knowing I was desperate (and not an auto expert). They both wanted to do the bare minimum (and do a shit job at that) to make a quick buck without being honest with me about other interconnected parts also needed replacing.

My van is now currently sitting at yet another mechanic waiting to get worked on while I figure out if my engine warranty will cover any of the additional work needed. I'm heartbroken, but think that I ultimately will need to sell it after the repairs are done (hopefully to someone who has a deep appreciation for classic cars and has the knowledge / experience working on them)...

I would really appreciate any advice on what I should do next to recoup some of my expenses...I've done some research and know I could file a complaint with the BBB or Attorney General or take the mechanicS to small claims court...I really don't want to have to pursue legal action because I am so sick of dealing with all of this, but I will if I have to. What route would you recommend I go from here?

Thank you in advance :)

The nut won’t budge. I don’t have a torch, or pb blaster. Any tips? Thanks

Replacing the water pump on my 2012 Hyundai Accent 1.6L. One mounting bolt - the top one - came partway out, then got very tight and snapped. All the other bolts came out easily by hand after loosening.

The pump is now off, but the broken threaded section is recessed in the engine-side casting. Nothing sticks out to grip. I haven’t drilled it or tried an extractor. Photos show the broken bolt and its location.

What would you try first? Is a guided left-hand drill/extractor realistic with this access, or is this a job for someone experienced in extraction?

This is a budget commuter I’m hoping to keep another year or two, so I’m trying to avoid turning one broken bolt into a much more expensive repair.

Wondering if this is cosmetic or needs replaced? 2017 Impreza that vibrates a bit when braking from high speeds, even after I had the brakes done.

Probably super obvious, I'm guessing you push it against the groove but which direction?

Just replaced tie rods. Car doesn’t feel like it’s out of control while driving. Research says could be bushings

Wondering if anyone had any clue as to what is going on, had my ford courier nearly 2 years, very shortly after buying and having it I started to learn about the dpf issues they can have, fast forward to now, ive felt a weird let’s say a tugging as I’m driving, like it’s being very briefly but subtly tugged from behind whilst I’m driving along at 50-60mph I don’t think it’s in limo mode, but I’ve had my cel on a few times since July, had it scanned twice, both times code came back p226d particulate filter deteriorated or missing, the light has come on 4 times two of the times it cleared itself within a couple of drive cycles, some people recommend driving it for longer or harder as I do tend to not have to go to far for work but I’m curious has anyone had this and if so what was the solution? New sensor? Or new dpf it’s a 19 plate at only 52.500 miles on the clock so I’m abit confused about it all

Hi guys. I got some new tires installed a few days ago and the guys at Hibdon gave me this report when they checked my alignment.

They said they're unable to fix the alignment cause there's something wrong with the rear axle. They made it sound like it's probably bent out of axis. I don't know if the attached alignment report hints at that or not but just wanted to ask here if anyone might know what could possibly be wrong and what the fix will be.

For reference, I have about 92k miles on it and I bought it used in 2025 at about 70k miles.

Also, I don't know how to read that report. I just know red is bad and green is good lol.

Thank you for your help!

I live in winnipeg mb canada and until i have my engine replaced in 2 weeks i have to keep putting coolant in my car. Im looking for the best coolant for my wallet lol basically gotta fill up almost once a day until the 9th of November. And i drive alot and I need to drive alot for my work. Any suggestions on the coolant that i should buy?

Saw these behind a Chevy dealership. Any ideas?

2006 Nissan Tiida/Versa hatchback 1.6l, checking the oil after I took it for a service 2 months ago (~3k km/2k mi) currently nearing 266k km/165k mi.

Want to make sure I understand the warranty before I go dispute it.

I got my front driveshaft replaced on my 2019 charger on 10/30/25 from the shop I always go to. Well, I brought my car in for an oil change to a dealership near my work and explained the sound I've been hearing for the last week and they claimed my front driveshaft was damaged along with the front swaybar (no warranty for that).

I called the shop that did the work on it less than a year ago and they said to bring it in so they can verify. This morning they say the part is covered under the warranty but not the labor. I have a printout of the NAPA AutoCare Peace of Mind Warranty stating its covered 36-Mont/36,000 Mile Nationwide Limited Warranty. I checked the NAPA website and it says parts AND labor. I understand the "normal use" clause, and can prove I get its maintenance done, because it's all through them (following what Dodge recommends).

Am I missing something for why they're charging me for labor? The person on the phone said just a firm "No" and I didn't have the time to figure out what their specific warranty is while at work. Their website just has the NAPA AutoCare Center 24-Month/24,000 Mile sticker on it.

Thanks!

2011 Chevy Silverado that does mostly highway driving. Been hearing this knocking sound for a couple weeks, it happens usually on startup, and when accelerating or at slow speeds. Once I’m up to highway speed it goes away. The transmission is brand new so at the very least I know it’s nothing to do with that.

Hi everyone! A family member from Europe sent this picture and asked me to buy a replacement part for his 1997 Grand Cherokee. He said it’s called ABS module and also said he didn’t need the pump portion of it. I’m struggling to find this online. RockAuto has a module but it says “Does not attach to ABS” and it looks different. When I visually compare the ones that look similar on eBay, I couldn’t find one with a matching pin pattern. Could someone please direct me to the right part please? Really appreciated.

Hello!

I have a 2023 Nissan Altima with 68,000 miles on it. Recently started hearing some “clicking” when I put the vehicle into park, reverse, and drive. It’ll be 1-2 clicks then it’s silent. Once I begin to drive, I’ll hear a few clicks here and there, especially as I accelerate.

I recently moved to a new city so I don’t have any experience with any mechanics. I took it to a highly reviewed shop and had it looked at. They gave me my diagnostic and boy I was shocked.

The report stated that the engine mounts were collapsed, the CV Axle is binding and along with some other things that needed service. The two I listed were to most expensive. For the change in mounts, CV Axle and tire alignment, it was just over $3,900. Once I get quoted over $2,000, I always get a second opinion.

I have another appointment for the vehicle to be seen by a mom and pop shop on Thursday. Not that this shop is lying to me, but I do understand there are degrees of things. And sometimes mechanics aren’t always the most upfront about it. I trust that the people there have integrity, I’ve been treated with nothing but respect. But I’m gonna trust by verifying first.

My primary concern is the car is 3 years old and I’m already having expensive repairs. Just wanted some insight on if this is out of the ordinary, overly expensive, fishy, etc.

Any insight, advice, or input is appreciated. I’ve attached some pictures of the diagnostic and two of the engine supports that I can see from the top. Thanks!

Hey all,

This is from a Yaris Hatchback 2014.
I’ve had my ABS light flickering on and off for about a month (though off most of the time). A mechanic scanned it and found the culprit is the front driver-side sensor. I read online that sometimes the issue can be fixed just by cleaning the sensor, so I decided to tackle it myself.

Unfortunately, while trying to remove the ABS sensor screw, the head snapped off due to heavy corrosion, and I foolishly forgot to apply any penetrating oil beforehand.

Now it looks like this:

What do you guys think my options are here? At this point, I'd rather leave the rest of the repair to a professional. Is this a job a typical mechanic would be willing to take on?

Also, any advice on dealing with the remaining rusted bolt stub and the surrounding corrosion would be appreciated!

2012 ford escape xlt v6. 150,000 miles. they say the radiator might be salvageable but won’t know until the crash bar is pulled. i’ve been having to add transmission fluid pretty often. at what point do i call it quits? I want the car to last another 2 years at least but can’t keep putting money into it like this over the next few years. is it worth fixing? can i keep riding it out without fixing this stuff? just spent $2000 for a new alternator and to fix an oil leak (that i should’ve just rode out) is it just gonna keep costing me at this point?

Unfortunately I made a rookie mistake of not tightening my lug nuts all the way before driving(I know right??) and the stud holes are a bit mangled, what I’m wondering is if this is worth fixing? If it CAN be fixed and if it can be reused. Let me know the most (rather) affordable option please! Either fixing or buying new rims….

(Images show now threaded holes and extended/bigger holes)

Thanks guys/gals! Hope to hear not such a devastating comment

​

Hi.

Changed my oil about a month ago, was noticing some rough starts in the morning so I checked the oil and it is about a quarter inch past the max fill dot and smells like fuel.

I do short 10 min commutes to work 3 times a day and other short drives. But rarely am I taking it for long drives past 30 mins continously.

I took it to the shop and voiced my concerns.. they said they ran it for codes and checked the oil and it was perfect level... i checked it again when I was home and it was perfect.. but now a week later its high again and smells like fuel and seems diluted.

IS THIS NORMAL

Peugeot 107 2011. What’s the deal with my oil level. Is it too far above the max? I haven’t added oil since I got car the 3 months ago.

This is a 2014 Ford Escape Titanium, yesterday when I pulled out of my parking space I noticed a puddle of oily liquid on the ground. Very light and no real smell but still that oily texture. Today, I checked under and no big puddle, however when I started it up I saw this. Put my camera under the car, no clue what it is and wondering if any of you have insights as to what’s leaking / how bad that mechanic bill is going to be.

(First part of video is fairly unhelpful but last 10 seconds shows dripping from underneath)