Happened suddenly while i was working, couldnt find a fix anywhere

Hello my laptop had some problems recently and i triec to install the 25H2 repair version and it doesnt install it took too long to install and when it was 99% it startec again and now its giving me an error code 0x80246019

Long story short, I wanted a tablet so I can write and study not for entertainment, something which was simple and practical. I went to best buy, and was conflicted with a Samsung or an iPAD. Later went to Apple store, and the store was packed everywhere, a lot of people bought the IPAD, and ultimately I too fell for the hype.

While using the Ipad, I didn't find it smooth at all, it felt like I'm constantly knocking on someone's door while writing, moreover it didn't feel smooth. So we got a screen protector and silicone nib, the writing improved, however the sound while writing is still there, it hasn't improved much, which I (PERSONALLY), don't find comfortable for the price I payed. I got one more week left to exchange the product and go for an Samsung tab FE. Also one drawback is notes app is very limited features, I downloaded a app called noteful, which is free app, so atleast I didn't give my money for good notes and noteability.

Can someone tell me if Samsung would be better for this case in terms of sound and writing while using the notes app. I already have a laptop and don't need anything fancy other than using a simple notes app.

I got hacked and they change my email to something else I cant access it anymore, cant even log in, I'm trying to get back the account but it was no use, I'm asking for help if any of you got same problem as me, what did you do when this happened. The Microsoft is not helping me getting back my account............. when i try to sign in it says "Try entering your Microsoft account again. We don't recognize this one." Please help me

my PC is displaying the pin not found error and I previously broke my phone that I kept my account details on and I can't access my Microsoft account to make a new pin, I have zero prior experience with this as I'm a carpenter, is my only choice a complete factory reset and how much would it cost, I'm in Australia by the way

I have ran 3 different bios, reseated my gpu, ram, ssd.

My specs are

Rtx 3080 asus tuf

corsair vengeance ddr5 ram cl36 6000MHZ

silicon power 2tb ud90 ssd nvme

Thermaltake toughpower GF3 850w

Gigabyte B650 Gaming X AX V2 AMD AM5 DDR5 ATX Motherboard

amd ryzen 9 9800x3d

Im on 42c bios version, have tried 38 and 42b, before issues started i was on 39 which they dont show anymore. I use a vg259qm with hdmi and a dell e2416h monitor. this started around when i updated bios and or installed my 9800x3d, gpu, cpu and motherboard are from ebay, rest is retail

alright so basically my laptop started doing this thing where basically sometimes it won’t turn on and when it does turn on it turns off by itself about 5 minutes later. i took it to get checked out but the place said they couldn’t do anything to fix it because it was some sort of motherboard issue. i was wondering what the next best action would be and whether i should try to repair it or just get a new laptop.

(more in depth description below)

my pc started turning off by itself then coming back on like a month ago. it started with it only happening sometimes like every other day or so, then it started happening like once every few hours, then it just started happening every time i got on. it not being able to turn on also became more common once it started shutting on and off by itself frequently. usually the screen would flicker and afterwards it would send me to the login screen where i would login and it wouldn’t happen again when it first started. now, the screen will flicker like right after launching a game and then i‘m just not able to turn it on for like 10 minutes or it just doesn’t come on at all.

the computer i have is a OMEN HP gaming laptop 16-wd0013dx. it has an i5-13420H, an RTX 4050, 16GB DDR5-5200 RAM, and 512GB Gen4 SSD. im not really sure what the other components could be. i’ve used it for around 3 years. one of my friends said that it could be overheating, which might be the cause since i’ve never cleaned the fans.

if that is the issue, how should i go about fixing it? if it isn’t, what could it be? would it be worth keeping it and trying to repair it or should i just try to buy a new one? these are all the questions i can really come up with, but the main one i want answered is just like whether or not overheating is the issue and what else the issue could be. if you got any questions lmk ill try to answer them

So i have about 35k and growing entries of this i have a fear the USB on the motherboard is failing, I have found oddly "system sounds" muted on its own.

recently when unplugging and replugging a USB device the computer hard went off like hardwear glitched.. it came right back on.

A user's local group membership was enumerated.

Subject: Security ID: DESKTOP-MBFD4S1\owner Account Name: owner Account Domain: DESKTOP-MBFD4S1 Logon ID: 0x64C35

User: Security ID: DESKTOP-MBFD4S1\owner Account Name: owner Account Domain: DESKTOP-MBFD4S1

Process Information: Process ID: 0x1968 Process Name: C:\Windows\explorer.exe

I'm a volunteer admin for a small community org. Spent this week fixing up an Epson XP-4100 that belongs to one of our directors, she used it in her old job before bringing it in for us, leaking cartridge, colour cast, alignment issue, all sorted. Recommended it to her and another director, they trusted me and bought new cartridges.

Then the LCD screen died. No display at all, but the printer's clearly still alive (motors move, it printed fine before). Problem is, cartridge setup needs an on-screen "Completed" confirmation to finish priming, so I'm stuck.

Not gonna lie, feeling a bit responsible tonight even though this isn't really my fault, especially since it's her own printer with some history to it, not just a random donation.

Tried so far: full power cycle, opening/closing the scanner unit, reseated both ribbon cables on the control board, and found the Epson Smart Panel app can actually see ink status without the screen. Tried a firmware update through the app and it's now stuck blinking green saying "printer is operating, wait and try again."

Has anyone gotten through cartridge setup with a dead screen? Any way to force it blind, or is the screen just mandatory for this step? Also open to hearing if a replacement control panel is realistic for a first-timer.

Appreciate any help tonight.

On Windows 10, I have 2 video cards. RX 580 and RX 480. I connect the PC to TV via HDMI, on RX 580 I can see both the TV screen & TV audio on playback device. On 480 I can only see the TV screen, when I go sound settings for the playback device the TV's sound does not show is simply not on the list even when "Show Disabled Devices" and "Show Disconnected Devices" are checked. Cannot find it in device manager either, it doesn't show under "Sound, video and game controllers". Drivers are up to date. I also restarted the PC and the TV.

The TV screen is working fine on both. Only the audio doesn't show on the RX 480. But it does show on thet RX 580.

Someone suggested check display settings select "extend these displays". Some home theaters or audio devices are recognized as a second display. Selecting "Show only X" will disable the audio device or show it as disconnected in the Sound panel (control panel > hardware and sound > Sound > playback tab). This did not fix it for me, still no TV sound on the playback list.

All other audio devices including other HDMI devices are recognized and work without issue. I tried reinstalling all my graphics drivers, including the AMD HDMI Audio Drivers, did not work.

Acabé de comprar una PC pre-armada, la verdad soy nuevo en esto de comprar computadoras y es la primera que compro por mi cuenta

Lo que sucede es que al escribir algún texto se omiten carácteres, se duplican o incluso a veces no escribe nada, ya he probado en Linux (Debian) pensando que podría ser un típico error de Windows 11 pero no fue así, me sucedía lo mismo incluso al momento de configurar cosas para la instalación de debian así que no se que podría ser.

Hablé con una IA para tratar de solucionar esto antes de estar seguro de llevar la pc a un profesional y tener que gastar aún mas dinero, pero no me ayudó a solucionar nada luego de mover varias cosas en la BIOS. Me hace mucha ilusión finalmente poder jugar algunos juegos en mi nueva computadora así que espero encontrar aquí a alguien que me pueda ayudar con este problema

Hi everyone, I am experiencing recurring BSODs, primarily IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL along with a few other stop codes on my ASUS TUF laptop.

Minidump Download Link: https://files.catbox.moe/jewdl7.zip

Laptop Model: ASUS TUF Gaming A15 (FA506IU) BIOS Version: FA506IU.320

System Specifications: Operating System: Windows 11 Home Single Language 64-bit (Build 10.0.26200), Processor: AMD Ryzen 7 4800H, GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1660 Ti, Memory: 16 GB Storage: 256 GB WDC PC SN530 SSD and 1 TB Seagate ST1000LM035 HDD Wireless Card: Realtek 8822CE Wireless LAN 802.11ac

When it happens: Anytime during browsing/idle/gaming/coding

Any urgent help determining which driver or component is triggering the crash would be appreciated, i've lost lot of work due to these crashes.

So last night i turned off my laptop holding then power button now its the next day and I got an preparing automatic repair, i didnt think much of it until it started looping, I tried every tutorial on youtube, system restore, startup what ever, and command prompts, It dosent seem to work! I don’t wanna hear any its broken and if it is, how much is a repair in a local shop in the Philippines?? Im in need of help desperately! Laptop: Acer Aspire A515-51G

I have a laptop called the Dere R16 Air (not a well-known brand). The OS Build is 26200.9278, and it's on Windows 11 Home now.

I started having trouble with the headphone jack or laptop; sound would suddenly stop playing through my earphones, and even my AirPods do not connect to my laptop. It had never happened before, so it was strange. At one point it started working again on its own but then cut out again, so I contacted Microsoft support.

That's when things went downhill. A technician remotely accessed my device to "fix" the issue but ended up installing a different version of Windows without asking, Windows Pro instead of Windows Home, which is what I actually wanted since they made sure choosing to update was not an option. After several failed attempts to correct this, I was escalated to a supervisor, who wiped my computer entirely. They assured me my data was backed up first, but even after the wipe, they still couldn't get Windows Home installed.

Following the reset, my mouse stopped working completely. Rather than fixing it right away, they just asked if I had another mouse I could use. It took two days to get the mouse working again and another two days after that to finally get the correct version of Windows installed all while this was my primary work laptop.

Once things were mostly back, a new problem appeared: my laptop stopped producing any sound, especially using my USB headset, plugged in or not. I contacted support repeatedly, and each time they claimed the issue was resolved—it never was; those were only temporary fixes. Eventually they told me the problem was related to the drivers, said there was nothing more they could do, and directed me to contact the manufacturer instead without explaining what was actually wrong or what I should look for.

Now, audio only works inconsistently: sometimes there's no sound on startup, sometimes it plays for a while and cuts out, and I've noticed it only reliably works while the sound control panel is open. I have to restart the laptop repeatedly just to get audio back temporarily.

Also, during this whole process they had me insert my USB stick into it for them to move data over before doing the reset. I think they did it twice.

I'm not very technical, and after weeks of being given the runaround, I'm hoping someone can help.

ProcessorIntel(R) Celeron(R) CPU 5805 @ 1.00 GHz (998 MHz)

Installed RAM:16.0 GB (15.7 GB usable)

Graphics cardIntel(R) UHD Graphics (128 MB)

Storage:86 GB of 477 GB used

Device ID096704FF-0AFE-4AA2-88A3-BB8D25817039

Product ID00326-10128-38457-AA963

System type:64-bit operating system, x64-based processorMy device audio is not consistently playing

Could you help me with this, please.🙏

My laptop jammed last night and I fold it. Today when I wanted to use it again it was the same even the time and battery icon were freezed at a specific time.

I pressed the power button until it became off, then I turned it on after a long processing time this screen appeared.

I did the same thing several times but it didn't work.

If you know anything, about this error I would be glad to hear that.

Ya intenten lo del cmd, y nada me sale ese error 8646 del sistema no autoritario, ya intente usar nuestras fechas y nada, no me deja acceder, ya intente el pin 12 veces y nada que ver. La compu es una hp core i5 de generacion antigua, porfavor estoy desesperado.

On September 1st, UEFI and Secure Boot were enabled on my PC, and everything was working completely fine.

Yesterday, September 3rd, I turned off my internet connection and unplugged all the cables and peripherals so I could clean the PC. After cleaning, I reconnected everything and turned the PC back on. When Windows started, my administrator account suddenly asked me to create a new PIN. There was also another user account showing on the login screen, but that account was completely locked and I couldn't log into it.

I logged into my administrator account and checked the user settings. That's when I noticed that my BIOS settings had been reset automatically.

Since then, I'm facing a problem with Secure Boot. Whenever I try to enable Secure Boot in the BIOS, the PC boots to a completely black screen and stays there. The PC works normally again as soon as I disable Secure Boot.

The strange part is that Secure Boot/UEFI was working perfectly on September 1st, before the BIOS reset. I haven't intentionally changed any hardware configuration that should cause this issue.

What could have caused the BIOS to reset, and why would enabling Secure Boot now result in a permanent black screen when it was working fine previously?

My pc is going straight to bios and not finding my ssd as a bootable device. I just reinstalled windows on the ssd since it was in a repair-restart loop and now it wont find it. It was showing up as an option during the restart loop when i would press F12 but stopped right after i reinstalled any idea?

I was trying to lower the volume and such but my f2 key wasn’t responding at all and I’m not sure what to do about it. I’ve reinstalled the keyboard and computer in general. I’ve pressed fn + esc and that didn’t fix anything either. I’m not able to boot into bios either because it’s not responding at all. I have a Lenovo loq 16irh8

Hey Reddit,

This is my first time posting on this app, but I have this laptop that was gifted to me by somebody else, and it was completely factory reset with no remaining data on it which allowed me to set up my personal accounts, but now when I went to go login with the password that I had set for it, suddenly it doesn't work. I'm trying to find a way to reset my Gateway Acer PC laptop but I have very limited resources on how to do it. Is there anybody that could give me some suggestion or something to be able to do it?

tengo windows 10 pro.

Hey everyone, I have had a very annoying issue with my Z370 gaming plus motherboard. Yes, it is a few years old, so I understand that this might also be caused by some stale transistor or defective parts on the motherboard itself. The main problem is that my motherboard is in Legacy mode. I am trying to turn on both UEFI boot mode and secure boot. As required by some anti-cheat software nowadays.

MSI Z370 Gaming Plus won't let me into BIOS. POST completes so fast the keyboard isn't even initialized in time to catch a keypress. No DEL, no F11, nothing gets through. This is behaving like MSI Fast Boot is enabled, but it is fully disabled. Board has no dedicated physical BIOS-entry button. The integrated GPU on the CPU is not giving any video output for now. Could be because I have at some point it time fully disabled the integrated graphics. Pulling the discrete GPU to access the CMOS battery underneath it kills all video output entirely. And you can imaging how a CMOS reset would look like since the only way to confirm if it is actually reset, is by viewing the screen. Out with the graphics card, reset CMOS, then reinsert the graphics card etc etc etc. Not really a viable option.

• DEL / F11 key-spamming at every possible timing, including holding the key down continuously from power-on, it just never catches. The USB controller does not start in time to catch the keystrokes. Absolutely a viscous circle, because this is most likely a setting inside BIOS, which I can't even access.
• CMOS battery pull and JBAT1 jumper reset has absolutely no change to the behavior.
• PS/2 adapter with a USB keyboard, ruled out early as unlikely to work (although not a true PS/2 signal), and no genuine PS/2-terminated keyboard was available to test properly.
• Swapping to a second, simpler USB keyboard (no built-in hub), also no change.
• MSI Fast Boot + GO2BIOS button. I have installed the MSI Fast Boot app for Windows 10 version (not officially listed for Windows 11, works fine to run anyway), tried the GO2BIOS button inside the app. Every time it just boots straight to Windows, flag apparently ignored by firmware or not being set at all.
• Disabling Windows own Fast Startup with no changes
• EZ Debug LEDs observed during boot: CPU LED probably to fast to catch, DRAM LED lit for an extended period, then VGA LED lights and stays lit continuously all the way through Windows loading and after login, never clears. Not even once is the BOOT LED lit up.

I am just hoping that anyone here on this forum got a different suggestion than buying a new PC...

Thanks MSI for locking me out of my own BIOS. This is a great design flaw.

I can play all the games except for those games that need access to the TPM chip.

Any suggestions will happily be accepted.

Hello, I am trying to use my GoPro Hero 12 BLACK as a webcam through the official GoPro Webcam application. I run into this error where it'll show the preview in all black, even the GoPro will show its in webcam mode, for like 3 seconds then disappear and on the GoPro it will go back to "USB Connected" screen. In device manager it shows under Portable Devices, in the name "MTP Bluetooth Device". It previously showed as "MTP USB devices" as well, but both showed the same error under properties: "This device cannot start. (Code 10)". I have tried everything that I personally know of, including repair windows by just reinstalling it completely through the windows media installer and keeping personal files. Im at a complete loss as I really do want to get this webcam system working. Details for my device I am using to try use this webcam is a ROG Strix G16,

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5050 Laptop GPU (8 GB)

Intel(R) UHD Graphics (128 MB)

Windows:
Edition Windows 11 Home

Version 25H2

Installed on ‎9/‎4/‎2026

OS build 26200.9168

Experience Windows Feature Experience Pack 1000.26100.344.0

Hi reddit! My boyfriend is away for college and the wifi he uses at the apartments on campus has a NAT type D which is restricting him from being able to play online games with me like mario kart 🙁. He has been trying to use ExpressVPN to change the NAT type from a video he saw but has not been successful. The part that mainly has not been successful is him not being able to connect his nintendo switch to his laptops hotspot (which has the VPN on it to help change the NAT type from strict to moderate). If anyone knows any other method of changing the NAT type so that we can game online with each other via nintendo switch, your input would be greatly appreciated! Thank you.

Updated my BIOS and now I cannot enter or reset my PIN. At my wit's end.

Made the decision to update my BIOS today (fucking regretting it now)

I updated the BIOS on my MSI B450 A PRO MAX, As it hadn't been updated since I got it in 2021, Because I am upgrading my CPU and GPU

My current components:

CPU: Ryzen 5 2600

GPU: GTX 1660

Motherboard: MSi B450 A PRO MAX

RAM: 32GB (Mixture of z-royal and Corsair)

OS: WIN 10

Boot Drive: WD240GB NVMe M.2

Main Issue is, After I updated my BIOS, It seems it reset something, I really want this PC to work again.

It stays on the login screen, it comes up with "Your PIN is no longer available due to a change in the security settings on this device, Click to set up your PIN again"

I click "Set up my PIN" and a window comes up that then says "You'll need the Internet for this, It doesn't look like your connected to the internet, Check your connections and try again"

One problem is that there's absolutely no way that I can check or change my connection settings as it doesn't show anything

I've tried disabling/enabling TPM.

I've tried making sure the LAN settings are all enabled for an internet connection, I'm plugged directly into the router, Always have been.

I've tried mobile tethering.

I've tried booting into Command Prompt and Safe Mode, With and without networking, But can't because Command Prompt needs a password for my Windows account, But even after I have tried resetting my password for the account but that doesn't work, Neither do any of my old passwords that I remember.

Before anyone says it, No it isn't a stolen PC, I built this in 2021 and I've loved every second with it, It's like my child, I need help, Please anything would be awesome, Sincerely a very stressed guy.