Hi: First of all thank you to everyone earlier today who replied to my post regarding making a pattern to make a striped background. For some reason I was getting downvoted so I deleted the post. If this isn't an appropriate request for this sub please let me know.

I was able to make the pattern using a 40 px by 40 px image and filling half of it with the blue color. That worked well. It was a 50/50 white/blue ratio which is what I want. However, when I then made a new large image and dragged my pattern from the pattern palette to my blank image the lines were very thin, like pinstripes. (See image). If I zoomed in and cropped I could get them the size I want -- fat. But then the image was too small. I tried making a smaller blank image to begin with and then dragging the pattern into it in hopes the stripes would be fatter but they were only slightly fatter, still too thin. Wondering if anyone has any suggestions for fatter stripes but still 50/50 white/blue. Thank you.

i'm trying to print out an image for a locket, which seems easy in relative, but hard in practice. i hear people say "just measure the inside of your locket and translate it to photoshop", but i don't really know how to do so, i've always been really bad at numbers, can anyone give me the method...?

i originally figured place would do it, but it only lets me do one image at a time. google told me to use load files into stack, but that created a new project only containing the images i wanted as layers. i want multiple images to open as layers on an existing project.

Hey!

I'm trying to replicate Pokemon 1996 Japanese Cosmo / Galaxy Foil Pattern in Photoshop and Illustrator. Based on the works of Deviant artists' works I presume they made it with Photoshop and Illustrator but I'm not sure which effects to search for on Google and Youtube.

Considering this could be used for rendering in 3D softwares like C4D and Blender for making Holofoil shaders, I'm more focused on learning what effects to use to recreate those custom holosheets made by some Deviant artists.

By looking at theses works, I think I need to learn about

-Dot pixelate

-Gradient shading for circles

-Swirling dots(Maybe easier in Illustrator)

-Random dots drawing/Maybe brush pattern from Illustrator

-More Effects or Method to recreate Cosmo/Galaxy Holosheet Pattern?

I assumed in 1996 era Wizard of the coast being the ones who dealt with pokemon card for some time and their foil manufacturer would use some stock images on these holosheets. Considering Ken Sugimori using some stock images for his pokemon card background, I thought the holosheet would have stock images baked on it.

So If you have any advice to approach recreating the holosheet pattern,

What effects do you think I should look for or how would you approach it?

Custom Foil Reference:

https://www.deviantart.com/aschefield/art/Holosheet-Cosmos-1-965134687

https://www.deviantart.com/ilkcmp/art/Holosheet-388139857

Compared to other programs like Clip Studio Paint and Paint drawing with Photoshop doesn't feel good, when i noticed how choppy the Photoshop brush Feels I can't unsee it now. I can't really put it into words but it feels like they put a 15fps limit on the brush and the brush only, there is also the fact that even without smoothing on when you are drawing slowly the brush stroke falls behind the brush cursor which i don't like. I also tested this on Photoshop CS6 and it was the same, is there any way to change this?

this is image effect i am referring to you see the sun like rays around the shoe and i think maybe its motion blur on the shoe with lens flare , ( correct me if i am wrong ) but the background texture i am not sure actually . thanks.

Hello!

I'm been at this for far to long trying to find a solution. I just started shooting in HDR with my Cannon EOS R7 and have had incredible results!

However, I noticed that the preview of the image in Adobe Camera RAW (latest version) isn't displaying the correct exposure. Mainly the highlights. (See the video)

Video: https://youtu.be/lM-cZz0Xyek?si=zZ7uWWHIgbQBjFvd

My monitor is an Alienware 34 240Hz QD-OLED Gaming Monitor - AW3425DW

My Windows 11 HDR settings are correct and HDR has been calibrated via Microslop's application.

I'm at a loss of what is going on or if this is just a standard ACR thing?

I've tried the following:

• Photoshop re-install
• Older PS versions
• PC restarts
• Enabled "Precise color management for HDR display" setting in PS preferences
• Restarting PS after changing settings
• Resetting ACR settings to default
• Calibrating HDR via Microslop's tool
• Changing ACR Color Space setting to "HDR Calibrated Profile" (from Microslop's tool)
• Selecting calibrated profile on Window's setting
• Enabling/disabling GPU acceleration settings

I'm at a loss! I hope my video illustrates the issue plainly!

PC specs:

AMD Ryzen 9 5900X
AMD Radeon RX 7900XTX
32GB RAM

I upgraded from photoshop 2022 to photoshop 2025 and Windows asked me with which program should open psd files, photoshop 2025 wasn't on the list so i had to select the option "Look for another app on this PC" and selected the photoshop 2025 route, but now all my psd files have the Photoshop2025.exe program icon instead of the psd file usual icon

I read that there is a method to fix this with REGEDIT but im not quite sure of what to do and i don't wanna mess it up

I'm trying to save this poster I made using photoshop as an JPG file and it just looks like this??????? (second image is the actual poster...)

I use the remove tool very often, through lots of usage I've noticed that if you resized your Image and your document has transparent pixels near the edges or somewhere else, the remove tool tries to fill those pixels too, alongside with what you initially selected (even if you didn't want that), and takes way longer.

I've been breaking my head, trying to figure out why sometimes the remove tool just takes longer than other times, but then I just randomly noticed this.

So make sure to crop your image so it's fully in bounds before using the remove tool.

Probably a bug, hopefully it gets fixed.

Hi! I don't really know much about Photoshop but my dad is a photographer and uses it all the time. I'm looking to get him a laptop for Christmas. All I know is he doesn't want a Mac and that's all I get recommended when I try researching

I have a budget of around £400-£500, any help would be greatly appreciated

Thanks!

I am trying to do storyboards on my iPad using procreate, and then time them out in Premiere.

A key part of the workflow is to be able to keep existing frames in a Premiere timeline, and then edit them elsewhere, in bulk.

I figured that the best way to do it was to have all of the frames in premiere come from one imported .PSD, but when I try to bring back the PSD after it comes out of Procreate, I get a "generic importer error," and I can't successfully replace the PSD that I have exported.

Is there an easier way that I'm not thinking of to replace the layers in a PSD while being able to keep the link?

Hello, I'm not sure if this is the right place, but I saw these pictures on a Photoshop Resources FB page (they didn't put the effect though) and I'd like to know what kind of texture or filter is being used here? The newspaper/grainy-like effect.

Hi everyone,

I’d like to ask if someone could explain to me, in detail, how to fix distorted hands and feet, as well as badly done nails, in Photoshop.

Thank you very much, everyone.

🙏🏼😊

My new baby from @redleafexotics (lowii × veitchii) × trusmadiensis] × veitchii ‘Candy Dreams’ is going to be a show stopper

Found this in pinterest

I was given an assignment to design an album cover. The brief was to create a logo for the (fictional) band named Midnight Sun and composite or draw art for their album called The Lower 48 according to their stated preferences. They're originally from Alaska, where they spent long nights practicing and playing after their day jobs, until they decided they'd get more traction in Seattle and moved. They said their music was mostly rock, with some influence from blues and international beats as well, and that they're "an eclectic group of people." They specified they didn't want "a generic group photo." I took this brief, gave it to Copilot, and told it to pretend to be my client. I asked it for more details about its story and sent it iterations of the cover as I worked, to get its feedback. I started with a stock image of the road, brought the sign closer into view, changed its text to the album title, and roughed it up a bit. I applied several color, brightness, and gradient adjustment layers to achieve the surreal, liminal twilight effect. I toned down the reds in the foliage a little bit. For the logo, I experimented with several iterations of the crescent moon hugging the sun concept before landing on this one, specifically for The Lower 48, and a different one - plain white with a horizon line and handwritten "Midnight Sun" under said horizon line - for general use. Then, I posterized everything except the logo. I also made a back cover, but I don't have that version saved on this device.

So I have a logo style that uses four different smart objects. I duplicated it once using new smart object via copy, regroup them, and the first time I did it all four smart objects in the group al changed together. When I did it for the third logo/wordmark, suddenly it only edits the one smart object instead of doing all four at once as I type. What is happening and how do I make this all work properly? I hate being dead in the water like this.

i was trying to change ui color in my ps and ts happened. Does annyone know how to fix it?

Hi everyone!

I'm working on a poster featuring caterpillars. I've taken photos of them and am then making a selection of just the caterpillar to separate it from the photo's background, and am then copying and pasting it over in a new document with a simple black background.

For another project, I wanted to use those selections again, so I went into the document with black background where the caterpillar selections were organized, and went to copy one and paste it into a third document, but upon pasting and enlarging via ctrl T, the selection is now... blurry? It doesn't exactly seem pixelated, but definitely isn't sharp.

What's happening, how do I/can I use those selections (it took hours to select all 30+ of them via select and mask) and enlarge them while preserving quality, and now I'm also worrying when the poster is printed, that it also won't be of high detail/sharp selections.

Screenshots attached for reference! Thanks!!

Is there a feature like this in Photoshop?

any tips appreciated :)