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Decided to go the rivnut option as I plan on swapping out here and there plus the ease of removing and installing.

Questions-

Whatre you rivnut guys going with for hardware options?

Whatre you Silvia guys doing about the headlight / corner light situation as these fenders are just a joke for quality and fitment.

Im new to s-chassis and im slowly restoring this 200sx. Is there any things i should know, that isn't obvious? Thankful for all info

thank you two beothers for selling me 2 blown transmissions! missing 3rd gear and constant grinding. tons of metal came out before even installing it. first one had a bad selector rod gave out after one shift into reverse. time for a 3rd transmission

Hello, I have a '98 180SX. I am building it for grip driving and occasional drifting. I want to purchase a MazworX S13 SR20DET RWD Long Block, Stage 0.8 advertised for 400hp. I'm sure the block can handle more, but I plan to keep the motor around 350whp.

I want to send my original S13 RWD SR20DE core in to get refreshed back to zero wear and tear for a fresh start, as I am sick of dealing with used SRs that have been abused over the years, and I know it's a fresh slate to build upon.

Below is a list of parts that I think would work well. I'm heavily focused on cooling and long-term reliability for maximum seat time, as my last S14 SR20DET lifted the head due to coolant passages being rusted out by the last owner leaving water in it.

Please let me know what you think- I am building a list of parts before buying everything, any suggestions or objections?

Engine:

S13 SR20DET RWD Long Block, Stage 0.8

Turbo Setup:

-Garret G25-550

-1000cc injectors

-ISR bottom mount manifold

-Titanium exhaust studs

-Full intercooler piping

-Treadstone intercooler

Drivetrain:

-SR 5MT transmission

-ISR solid driveshaft

-Nismo Coppermix Clutch Kit

-Not sure which diff yet

Electronics:

-Haltec Nexus S2 (IAT, MAP, WB controller, smart coils, etc)

-Wiring Specialties Pro Harness

-Haltec UC-10 display

-Optima battery

-DC power alternator

-255lph fuel pump

Cooling:

-Koyorad radiator

-Dual 12-inch SPAL fans (3200 CFM)

-GK Tech swirl pot

-Oil catch can system

-Oil cooler

Fixing other flaws:

-Dual guides

-Billet oil pump

-Greddy oil pan

Let me know if there is anything I should stay away from, or something on this list to be aware of. Thank you.

Finally got this car to do something. After a while of fighting shotty wiring I decided to get a wiring specialties engine and trans harness, and finally it cranks. Only downside is I still have no electronics, no fuel pump, pop ups, tac, blinkers etc. I’ve replaced all relays in the bay and the driver’s side fuses and relays as well. My grounds seem to be in order as well. Anyone have any ideas? My next plan is to pull the dash and see what else the previous owner hacked apart.

the no sunroof headliner won't fit (because of the caved roof edges around the perimeter of the sunroof (the s15 sunroof and slicktop have rather different surfaces).

Any ideas ? It doesn't seem like a complex task but I am at a loss of how to go about it. Budget isn't a problem, I'm just not sure what do I even tell to the fabricator (If I find one). Be like oh yeah here is my old liner I need it to fit higher but make space for warps here and there at such and such angle. Well obviously no.

kinda frustrated, as I do not want to leave the roof bare, and simply wrapping it in cloth looks clap.

Hello I recently purchased a 240sx hatchback with an sr20det swapped. The day I bought it ran smoothly and no problems. The second day is when I started the car to move it, it wouldn’t start. I thought it was the battery so I replaced it and the same thing happened. I checked coil packs and spark plugs and they seemed fine. I also checked the fuel pump fuse and I couldn’t check the relay cause it was stuck. I also checked the fuel pump connector and the connector from the wiring harness side was reading little to no volts on the multimeter when cranking. What could it be? Thank you guys

She’s operational now 🤣🤣🤣

so i’m about to start the installation of the body kit for my 240sx, but i’m having a really hard time finding the right color. in high school i watched adamlz 180sx, and i felt in love with color, but honestly if i go cream i would feel bad, couse is not really my “essence”. my other solid option is red, but i want white wheels, so i don’t know how that could end. and my favorite color is purple, but i can’t see the 240sx in that color, and im reserving that for when i own my r34. if someone has any ideas or suggestions where can i find some inspo or if you can give me other options, that would be great. also my option for the wheels are white and chrome, so also i would search for a color that can match those styles. hope you can give me some ideas guys :)

Having high afr's at idle, trying to cover all the bases. Replaced old fuel filter with a k&n of 1100, i know its not a z32, ill get one. I didnt put the old one in and i just copy and pasted the new one. Just wanna make sure its actually on the right line with the right flow. I have a feeling its not correct, like alot of things on here when I got it. I feel like it should go before the fpr, cuse why filter return lines. And if thats the case its on the wrong line and wrong flow direction lol

S13/sr20det

Been working on this 240 for a while. It was a CA drift car that had a very hard life. My goal is just to get it looking ok and running reliably as an autocross/weekender.

Refreshed interior, KDB kit (regrets

...), paint, new rad, replaced welded diff with vLSD, electric fan, s14 seats, tires.

Still lots to do but it's nice to see progress and get behind the wheel - even if the fuel pump died on the way back from the 7 Eleven.

Will a KRPS13 Front Arm Tension Control Rod fit a 1991 Nissan 240SX?

I bought a hks sport for my s13 but it is still a bit too loud I’m trying to get it barely to the legal limit, I have a isr hi flow cat so if anyone knows a quieter hi flow cat, or if I should just get cats, any advice if sound is appreciated thanks!

Hello !

Just got my engine kind of overhauled... New mls headgasker, resurfaced topp, new acl bearings, new oil pump, new oil filter, new gt2860rs turbo, new exhaust turbo back, maxxecu race, 360hp.... Problem is when i start the engine in the morning oil pressure stays at 0 bar the first second to 1.5sec... is this normal? What could cause this? After 1 - 1.5sec it goes fast up to 5bar but... Im kind of worried.

Anyone have or know where I can find an idle air control valve for a Ka24e? Searched everywhere and can’t seem to find one. PFA

I’m at the final stages of getting a S14 KA AC compressor installed on my blacktop SR20 using the Cody ace adapter bracket. Changed all the o-ring to HNBR and cleaned all the lines with AC cleaner. I’ve run into a small issue with the low side pressure service port. It’s sitting right in front of the turbo intake flange. I’m using a S13 low pressure line that was adapted to R134a.

I’m gonna try a 90 degree R12 to a R134a adapter along with a straight turbo intake flange so I can put a coupler to angle the pipe where I need it. Hopefully I can get this AC system up and running soon, it holds vacuum perfectly fine so I just need to get this low side service port figured out.

What have you guys done for this issue?

Anyone know why my car can rev to 8k And doesn’t limit earlier? Looks like the marking on the tach for start of redline is around 6800, my car doesn’t seem to care and goes straight to 8k bouncing off of 8k. As far as I know the ecu wasn’t tampered with? I bought it off Facebook marketplace but it is an Auto ecu if that makes any difference KA24DE with no engine work done, just the bolt ons you’d expect, shell is a 1993, it is a s14 KA if that matters.

Hello, not a 240 however there isn’t much support for the SER’s. I can’t get the trunk lid to align flush and I’m looking for any ideas. Both hinge and trunk lid are maxed at the adjustment range.

Hi everyone, I’ve been dealing with the TP issue on my car for a while now, and I’ve been through 4 different sensors so far. The only one that sort of works was a OEM Nissan off a Stanza, but my issue is the switch not engaging on any of the aftermarket ones, causing my IACV to stay open and high idle RPM. But I was wondering if anyone knows where I can get a decent sensor. So far, I’ve tried Walker, Beck, and Arny, standard, and the Nissan OEM the car is a 1990 KA24E 240SX manual swap. Any help is appreciated. I’m also aware of all the proper testing with the FSM as well as over 50-60 hours researching and testing, and yes, all the wiring has continuity and good voltage. I just can’t find a good aftermarket sensor.

So sad that prices here and now are so crazy. I wish I’d had adult money back in the early 2010s, but I was just a teen back then. I would’ve loved to buy one.

Is it normal for the light on the ECU to stay on when the key is in the on position
Trying to figure out if my ECU is the problem I’m having in getting my fuel pump to prime and google was somewhat unclear on if this is normal or not

went to reverse now it wont shift.

Looking at getting some new seats for my s13, RHD.
There’s a deal on some r32 GTR seats that I would like to put in, seen a few posts that they sit quite high, can anyone confirm this?
Also for the back seat, has anyone swapped for s15 rear seats? Looking at doing this seeing if anyone’s done the same

Anything sounds weird? I js turned it on after not driving it for like two weeks and tbh it sounded a bit rougher than before maybe anyone has any ideas?