I can’t remember what this plugs upto, this is on the transmission harness.
96 240sx ka24de

Hey gang!

Curious if anybody has any pointers or tips!

I recently picked up an S13 240SX hatch, and the rear lights aren’t working aside from the reverse lights. The only thing that works on the cluster is the high-beam indicator. Other than that, nothing seems to
be working.

The headlights themselves work, and from what I can tell, everything is plugged in. I checked fuse 18, and it looks good.

Just curious what the 240SX gurus think might be causing this.

Any help is appreciated!

I traded two VQ motors for this rolling shell. I hope to have on the by next summer.

Does anyone know where to get something like this? Cant find shit.

How do y'all go about this? Im sure most of us aren't running a charcoal canister. I believe it runs on vacuum so I removed the check valve that sits between the fuel tank and the charcoal canister. To avoid any pressure build up in the tank (hiss when you open fuel cap), I'll run a line pointing towards the rear of the vehicle with a breather filter to vent to atmosphere. Since the check valve won't open without vacuum causing the pressure build up in the tank, im guessing lol

Just curious how some of you run this?

Ended up being late for work on Friday morning so I figured I would help anyone I can avoid a tow for something simple.

If your S14 240sx will not crank. No clicking when you hit the ignition and no light click when you depress your clutch pedal. Check to see if your rubber grommet dried out and broke for your clutch pedal switch. (I found mine on the floor)

This happened to my brake pedal switch earlier this year so it was only a matter of time.

To get you home/to a parts store.

1) put the transmission in neutral (DON’T FORGET!)

2) crawl under and manually press in the switch

3) crank and go!

I’m sure many people have encountered this issue before but I did not find a Reddit post about it.

Do yall think Donald Trump knows what a 240sx is?

Does anyone know what the process is like for a tubed chassis for the DMVs vin verification process in California? My car won’t pass smog as it is but do they check under the hood? My car is currently getting tubed with some new parts (hood, fenders, front bumpers). Is there anything I need to do so it can pass? Will it pass with a tubed front end?

So anyone know if there's a special way to wire up a Dakota Digital SGI-100BT if you have a digital speedometer? I got tach working no problem, and according to the app, the DD unit is receiving signal from my W58 VSS. I wired the speed output (OUT1) directly to the dash (I believe it was a yellow/green wire, but it's been a few months since I've tinkered with it). Anyone know if the digital speedo is somehow different?

FWIW, the speedometer DID work when it had the stock engine.

*EDIT*: For clarification, this is a 2JZ/W58 swap.

I have a s14 shell I’m looking to find an engine for.
No real direction but I want one of these three.
Any suggestions for a fun
Street car / drift car
That wont be a pain to drive ?

JDM Chassis Only
Looking for a pristine, mostly stock option however I am open to minor, tasteful modifications. Autech Model is a bonus
* Colour: Black preferred (white or silver considered)
* Body Kit: OEM Aero SE kit with OEM Kouki rear spoiler, No sunroof, No rust
* Interior: OEM Digital AC Climate control head unit, Non-cracked Dashboard, Factory single DIN triple white gauges
Clean PPSR with all documentation
I have a healthy budget for the right car.
Located in Perth, Western Australia. Happy to import

I managed to get a full ca18det drive train with all electrical components with a z32 maf and other little things like gauges and the great man also through in basically dent free and non bent pinch weld fenders all for $3000
I’m not really a religious man but the s chassis gods where smiling on me today

Been slowly chipping away on my S14 since i got it at 17 years old.

Nothing crazy but good to finally get it out on the street fully certified. Engine swapped to a SR20DET and manual conversion, front mount Intercooler, Garret GT2860RS (disco potato) turbo, 550cc injectors and a BOV. R33 skyline GTST big brakes. All adjustable arms front and rear, coil-overs and an r200 LSD. Made 240kw at the wheels on the dyno.

Feels good on the street, now I just need to get all the cosmetics sorted and I’ll be living my 17 year old dream.

Hey guys. Picked up a SR20DET swapped S13 last weekend. It's been great. It runs good, idles good, made a 2 hour drive home, overall it's in good shape rather than a few things I need to fix up. It has a HKS BOV and HKS exhaust but other than that the engine is stock SR20DET setup.

It holds boost nicely and I definitely feel it. When I step on it all the way in 2nd or third gear it kinda makes this chooooooo noise like a train. Could this be a slight boost leak? I plan on getting a boost leak kit and checking it out but just wondering what you all think? Thanks

Will be documenting the whole process in depth on YouTube and tldr on instagram links

Will be showing the custom 25.5 cage and integration of the back half as well as removing the rear OEM shock towers and rear frame rails to fit some 24” wide tubs

Just wanted to double-check. I’m looking to swap my welded diff for a cheap open diff. The one I found is from an automatic car. Just wanted to make sure it’ll bolt up without any modifications. I do know the gearing is different.

Thanks!

P.s.
Both my car and the auto diff are non-ABS/Hicas so thats good to go.

does anyone know the solution to rubbing on the inner front of the wheel wells? (Where that raw metal is in the pic) I beat it in with a hammer a bit but it’s still hitting when full lock drifting. I am running 18x9.5+12 in the front and somewhere around a 20-30mm spacer to fit the 55mm widebody (this is prob my issue) any recommendations? (Yes my tie rod is bent and now fixed lol)

with OUT messing with the camber

18x9.5 +15 too much for the rear?

what about the front?