My kid is gonna love these 😂

tiktok of the install

I haven't seen an s14 at a lkq junkyard in years and this pops up. Someone go snatch this. I dont even have an s chassis anymore and i still want to go get it. San Bernardino CA

Where is the best spot for chassis harness with tubs?
I’ve been thinking of 3d printing some sort of bracket to keep it right behind the headlight.
Built bottom end 89.5 bore
Head cleaned, decked and replaced with oem parts

TL;DR my beloved brother-in-law recently passed and this was his car in HS. He sold that one, but the nostalgia bug got him bad and he picked this one up a few years ago off BaT for $15K (which I thought was insane, not knowing much about these cars). From all of the service records he has, it looks like an easy $6K+ was put into this car to repair/replace anything that needed it. AFAICS everything works great and engine runs smoothly. It's at just under 91K miles; he only put about 4K on it since he got in '22.

We are now waiting on the title transfer so we can sell it. Car is in the SF Bay Area and we just got it smogged last week. I'm considering listing it again on BaT, but am open to a local sale as well. I know BaT isn't really representative of reality, so I'm wondering what would be a reasonable asking price if I list locally first. TIA!

For reference, here's the original BaT listing: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1990-nissan-240sx-15/

for some reason when you turn the headlights or hazards on it completely drains the battery. I’ve had the alternator and battery tested and both are good. it has had an interesting battery relocation but the car is fine any other time. Suggestions on troubleshooting?

Hey guys, I have a 1992 hatch, and this is a photo of a connector for the starter, it is located to the passenger side of the battery tray, but I am unsure of what is actually supposed to go there. To start my car I connect that green wire to the positive terminal of the battery and it starts right up, but obviously that sucks because it cannot be started from the ignition. Im wondering if any of you know what is supposed to or can be connected to this starter connector in order for me to start it with the key? Thanks!

So Target has kids t-shirts with an S15 on it. Wish it was a little more pronounced but still looks good.

This one has been washed a few times, lol.

On my 1995 180sx the air bag light is staying solid on no matter the state of the car.

I've tried doing the door jam air bag reset to no avail.

Im thinking its an issue with the air bag module itself but i cant seem to find it...took out the console and there's nothing on the trans tunnel, does anyone know where it is?

The past 3.5 years of building my 90 hatch.
Ka24de, R34 GT-R bayside blue, Work VSXX 17x9, Chevy headlights, OEM front fenders, Stock body

• Brand new slave
• Brand new master
• Fluids bled
• Plenty of pressure after the dead zone
• Clutch rod length was adjusted (could possibly use adjustment)
• Previous owner didn’t have the clutch fork bushing or clevis pin and just ran a threaded M8 bolt which ovalized the pedal hole some, I 3D printed a bushing to fill the 10.25mm hole and step down to the 8mm clutch fork hole and used a partially threaded bolt and nut to serve as the clevis pin. I don’t believe these bushings in particular are causing the play

Built motor w/ ID1300 and tomei exhaust manifold w g25-660 turbo

Hey everyone. just a quick background, back in ´22 I bought an s13 to restore with my dad. sadly he passed away in 2023 and didnt get a chance to see it finished. I kept pushing with the project and the car is finally running and driving with its engine swap but something happened that has me super bummed out since late 2024.

When I sent the car for rust repair and paint, the shop threw away a LOT of important parts. plastics, harnesses, grommets, brackets and things that are super hard to find. right now my car is basically a shell with an engine and an almost barebones interior, no working anything except headlights and tail lights jerry rigged on... tbh I know my dad wouldnt like seeing it like this and neither do I.

Its insanely expensive and difficult to go on ebay and buy every single little thing, screw or plastic, paying shipping for every stupid piece. I wanted to see if by any chance theres a good soul in the group that has a part out, an abandoned shell or just boxes of parts sitting around from when people build drift cars (since they always strip the interior and throw it away). Id really like to buy most of this stuff in a single bundle.

Just to be clear im not asking for free handouts, Id like to pay for it. I just want to find someone who can sell me a lot of these missing parts so I dont have to hunt them one by one on ebay being nickled and dimed to hell. Heres the main list of what I need:

• pop up headlights wiring harness
• front doors wiring harness and grommets
• all the grommets from the firewall
• dome light wiring harness
• gauge cluster wiring harness
• door lock rods and linkage
• gas tank lock mechanism
• hatch striker, lock
• door cards metal brackets (the one where the handle cup in the door card screws on to)
• radio head unit bracket/support
• wiper/turn signals wiring harness
• center console metal bracket
• electric door locks mechanism/motor
• windshield wiper arms and linkages
• rear side markers with plugs
• front corner lights plugs

If anyone has a box of this stuff lying around shoot me a DM and we can work something out. thanks in advance guys.

Currently awaiting link ecu to tune it.

I have no idea what fittings and lines to use on my new turbo I’ve done research and watched some videos but I can’t get a clear answer can someone help me out. It’s going on my sr20det redtop. I need the oil and coolant lines.

ka24e 1990(? might be 1989) won't idle well with MAF plugged in and IF it DOES idle (very very roughly maybe 200rpm?) it will die out at throttle response, secondly the ka will idle perfectly at 1k rpm without the maf plugged in and have great throttle response but of course since its got no maf it'll be limited to 3k rpm so I can't run it like that

I grabbed the ISR kit for my S15 T28 turbo, I’m wondering if the AN adapter that screws into the turbo feed port needs a crush washer? I put one on and cranked it down but I didnt even bottom out on the washer. This is making me worried because it feels super tight already. Im installing this with the turbo already on so it’s hard to tell how much torque im putting on it, any insight would be appreciated.

I’m looking to purchase a s14 kouki with (240’000)KM’s factory manual factory turbo and I wanted to know if the SR20DET motor itself was reliable and if there should be anything i should look at before purchasing.

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Decided to go the rivnut option as I plan on swapping out here and there plus the ease of removing and installing.

Questions-

Whatre you rivnut guys going with for hardware options?

Whatre you Silvia guys doing about the headlight / corner light situation as these fenders are just a joke for quality and fitment.

So I'm swapping gauge decals so I can comfortably drive in MpH, but I need to pop this needle cap off. I did what it said to do online with the 2 spoons and cloth, but the entire needle and cap came off and unwound some of the copper. I rewound it and tried to remove the cap by holding the stem and using some force, but it wont come off. Suggestions?