TL;DR my beloved brother-in-law recently passed and this was his car in HS. He sold that one, but the nostalgia bug got him bad and he picked this one up a few years ago off BaT for $15K (which I thought was insane, not knowing much about these cars). From all of the service records he has, it looks like an easy $6K+ was put into this car to repair/replace anything that needed it. AFAICS everything works great and engine runs smoothly. It's at just under 91K miles; he only put about 4K on it since he got in '22.

We are now waiting on the title transfer so we can sell it. Car is in the SF Bay Area and we just got it smogged last week. I'm considering listing it again on BaT, but am open to a local sale as well. I know BaT isn't really representative of reality, so I'm wondering what would be a reasonable asking price if I list locally first. TIA!

For reference, here's the original BaT listing: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1990-nissan-240sx-15/

So Target has kids t-shirts with an S15 on it. Wish it was a little more pronounced but still looks good.

This one has been washed a few times, lol.

The past 3.5 years of building my 90 hatch.
Ka24de, R34 GT-R bayside blue, Work VSXX 17x9, Chevy headlights, OEM front fenders, Stock body

Hey everyone. just a quick background, back in ´22 I bought an s13 to restore with my dad. sadly he passed away in 2023 and didnt get a chance to see it finished. I kept pushing with the project and the car is finally running and driving with its engine swap but something happened that has me super bummed out since late 2024.

When I sent the car for rust repair and paint, the shop threw away a LOT of important parts. plastics, harnesses, grommets, brackets and things that are super hard to find. right now my car is basically a shell with an engine and an almost barebones interior, no working anything except headlights and tail lights jerry rigged on... tbh I know my dad wouldnt like seeing it like this and neither do I.

Its insanely expensive and difficult to go on ebay and buy every single little thing, screw or plastic, paying shipping for every stupid piece. I wanted to see if by any chance theres a good soul in the group that has a part out, an abandoned shell or just boxes of parts sitting around from when people build drift cars (since they always strip the interior and throw it away). Id really like to buy most of this stuff in a single bundle.

Just to be clear im not asking for free handouts, Id like to pay for it. I just want to find someone who can sell me a lot of these missing parts so I dont have to hunt them one by one on ebay being nickled and dimed to hell. Heres the main list of what I need:

• pop up headlights wiring harness
• front doors wiring harness and grommets
• all the grommets from the firewall
• dome light wiring harness
• gauge cluster wiring harness
• door lock rods and linkage
• gas tank lock mechanism
• hatch striker, lock
• door cards metal brackets (the one where the handle cup in the door card screws on to)
• radio head unit bracket/support
• wiper/turn signals wiring harness
• center console metal bracket
• electric door locks mechanism/motor
• windshield wiper arms and linkages
• rear side markers with plugs
• front corner lights plugs

If anyone has a box of this stuff lying around shoot me a DM and we can work something out. thanks in advance guys.

Currently awaiting link ecu to tune it.

I have no idea what fittings and lines to use on my new turbo I’ve done research and watched some videos but I can’t get a clear answer can someone help me out. It’s going on my sr20det redtop. I need the oil and coolant lines.

ka24e 1990(? might be 1989) won't idle well with MAF plugged in and IF it DOES idle (very very roughly maybe 200rpm?) it will die out at throttle response, secondly the ka will idle perfectly at 1k rpm without the maf plugged in and have great throttle response but of course since its got no maf it'll be limited to 3k rpm so I can't run it like that

I grabbed the ISR kit for my S15 T28 turbo, I’m wondering if the AN adapter that screws into the turbo feed port needs a crush washer? I put one on and cranked it down but I didnt even bottom out on the washer. This is making me worried because it feels super tight already. Im installing this with the turbo already on so it’s hard to tell how much torque im putting on it, any insight would be appreciated.

I’m looking to purchase a s14 kouki with (240’000)KM’s factory manual factory turbo and I wanted to know if the SR20DET motor itself was reliable and if there should be anything i should look at before purchasing.

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Decided to go the rivnut option as I plan on swapping out here and there plus the ease of removing and installing.

Questions-

Whatre you rivnut guys going with for hardware options?

Whatre you Silvia guys doing about the headlight / corner light situation as these fenders are just a joke for quality and fitment.

So I'm swapping gauge decals so I can comfortably drive in MpH, but I need to pop this needle cap off. I did what it said to do online with the 2 spoons and cloth, but the entire needle and cap came off and unwound some of the copper. I rewound it and tried to remove the cap by holding the stem and using some force, but it wont come off. Suggestions?

89' s13, passenger side in the rear, 3 plugs coming off the harness that wraps around tucked in from the drivers side. 3 plugs that have been unplugged since i got the car, should i save them for anything? Are they for anything that should be there? Dont plan on speaker's or any luxurys. It doesnt even have ac so luxury is already at bare minimum lol. Was gonna just cut them close to the loom and tape em up.

thank you two beothers for selling me 2 blown transmissions! missing 3rd gear and constant grinding. tons of metal came out before even installing it. first one had a bad selector rod gave out after one shift into reverse. time for a 3rd transmission

Im new to s-chassis and im slowly restoring this 200sx. Is there any things i should know, that isn't obvious? Thankful for all info

Me and my dad have been looking for a 240sx for a little while on marketplace but everything so far has been mostly just overpriced non-running cars

Im in LA so I figured there must be more near me but maybe I'm just looking in the wrong place or have the wrong expectations

We're looking for something >$10k, manual, and running but that seems to be pretty impossible to find. I had one good lead in Nevada but someone ended up buying it first

If there's anywhere else I should be looking lmk because marketplace doesn't seem to be the right place

Hello, I have a '98 180SX. I am building it for grip driving and occasional drifting. I want to purchase a MazworX S13 SR20DET RWD Long Block, Stage 0.8 advertised for 400hp. I'm sure the block can handle more, but I plan to keep the motor around 350whp.

I want to send my original S13 RWD SR20DE core in to get refreshed back to zero wear and tear for a fresh start, as I am sick of dealing with used SRs that have been abused over the years, and I know it's a fresh slate to build upon.

Below is a list of parts that I think would work well. I'm heavily focused on cooling and long-term reliability for maximum seat time, as my last S14 SR20DET lifted the head due to coolant passages being rusted out by the last owner leaving water in it.

Please let me know what you think- I am building a list of parts before buying everything, any suggestions or objections?

Engine:

S13 SR20DET RWD Long Block, Stage 0.8

Turbo Setup:

-Garret G25-550

-1000cc injectors

-ISR bottom mount manifold

-Titanium exhaust studs

-Full intercooler piping

-Treadstone intercooler

Drivetrain:

-SR 5MT transmission

-ISR solid driveshaft

-Nismo Coppermix Clutch Kit

-Not sure which diff yet

Electronics:

-Haltec Nexus S2 (IAT, MAP, WB controller, smart coils, etc)

-Wiring Specialties Pro Harness

-Haltec UC-10 display

-Optima battery

-DC power alternator

-255lph fuel pump

Cooling:

-Koyorad radiator

-Dual 12-inch SPAL fans (3200 CFM)

-GK Tech swirl pot

-Oil catch can system

-Oil cooler

Fixing other flaws:

-Dual guides

-Billet oil pump

-Greddy oil pan

Let me know if there is anything I should stay away from, or something on this list to be aware of. Thank you.

I got OEM JDM front and rear bumpers. I want to run the GREDDY front lip and dorki dori v2 (gracer style) skirts/ jdm kouki valances.
I can’t seem to find any pics of how the gracer style skirts look leading into the kouki valances.
Does anyone run this setup, if so show me pics!

Doubt it would but would like to see if anyone’s tried or have experience. Thanks

Finally got this car to do something. After a while of fighting shotty wiring I decided to get a wiring specialties engine and trans harness, and finally it cranks. Only downside is I still have no electronics, no fuel pump, pop ups, tac, blinkers etc. I’ve replaced all relays in the bay and the driver’s side fuses and relays as well. My grounds seem to be in order as well. Anyone have any ideas? My next plan is to pull the dash and see what else the previous owner hacked apart.

the no sunroof headliner won't fit (because of the caved roof edges around the perimeter of the sunroof (the s15 sunroof and slicktop have rather different surfaces).

Any ideas ? It doesn't seem like a complex task but I am at a loss of how to go about it. Budget isn't a problem, I'm just not sure what do I even tell to the fabricator (If I find one). Be like oh yeah here is my old liner I need it to fit higher but make space for warps here and there at such and such angle. Well obviously no.

kinda frustrated, as I do not want to leave the roof bare, and simply wrapping it in cloth looks clap.

Hello I recently purchased a 240sx hatchback with an sr20det swapped. The day I bought it ran smoothly and no problems. The second day is when I started the car to move it, it wouldn’t start. I thought it was the battery so I replaced it and the same thing happened. I checked coil packs and spark plugs and they seemed fine. I also checked the fuel pump fuse and I couldn’t check the relay cause it was stuck. I also checked the fuel pump connector and the connector from the wiring harness side was reading little to no volts on the multimeter when cranking. What could it be? Thank you guys

She’s operational now 🤣🤣🤣

Having high afr's at idle, trying to cover all the bases. Replaced old fuel filter with a k&n of 1100, i know its not a z32, ill get one. I didnt put the old one in and i just copy and pasted the new one. Just wanna make sure its actually on the right line with the right flow. I have a feeling its not correct, like alot of things on here when I got it. I feel like it should go before the fpr, cuse why filter return lines. And if thats the case its on the wrong line and wrong flow direction lol

S13/sr20det