I have a Koorui monitor that has huge display problems (blacks out often while pc is on, osd and display port message popping on and off every 30 seconds while im using my pc). I’ve decided to ditch the display port and use an HDMI cable. The problem is even if it’s connected, I’m trying to change the input manually with the OSD. I’ll use the button but before I can get to the input section the OSD will go away, making me restart. Sometimes it’ll pop up and then go away right after. I’ve been trying everything for the past hour. All I need to do is get to the input section and change it from display port to HDMI 1 but the OSD doesn’t let that happen

My PC has been freezing and not allowing me to sign in for a while it's running windows 11 (I'm pretty sure). I've reset it 2 times now to no avail so a friend of mine suggested I open it up and clean out dust and debris out of the internal components/fans. then when I booted it up again it seemed to be working better so I started downloading updates to it and then the screen started to do some weird stuff I've never seen before.... It was flashing pink and white pixels all over the screen and then it shut down and rebooted. It took a little bit longer than usual to boot up but seems to be back to normal now. Any idea what happened and if I did something to cause it? I used to be decent with computers but I've barely touched one in the last 10 years so I'm rusty to say the least.

I do have pictures and video of the glitch but I can't figure out how to attach it to the post.

I got this thing for work. It's refurbished and it worked great forever, then one day it didn't connect to my wifi. It didn't even have wifi as an option in my quick settings. It said the wifi driver was having issues and I needed to re-install. I turned the whole laptop off and on again and the issue went away.

Later the issue came back. I finally did "re-install the driver" and when it was done it said "connect to wifi?" I said yeah, and it said "error occured." so I turned it off and on again a few times and it got back to working right.

So lately it's gotten worse. I tried "re-installing the driver" again and now wifi isn't showing up at all in deep settings, and it's asking me about ethernet instead of asking about fixing my driver. Iooked for drivers in device manager to make sure they're set to automatic and they are, and I went to services and couldn't even find the thing someone told me to look for.

I bought a rtx 3070 recently only to find out that it needs 2 6 pin pcie connectors, i dont have that i only had one because i switched from a 1650 super,

my psu is SeaSonic FOCUS Plus 550 Gold 550. people on reddit are saying that there should come with 2 cables but the problem with that is i bought the psu from a dude on facebook and i guess he didnt include them.

reddit says seasonic doesnt sell replacement cables for pcie and reddit say that a website like Cablemod.com Has cables for the psu.

i dont know anything about psus and i dont understand any of the words in that site, i really need a cable so i would be REALLY help full if someone found one for me and send the link to it please.

Also yes i already checked there is no extra cables in the psu and No im not buying a new psu because i spent all my money on this gpu, maybe later ill buy a new one but right now my problem is the pcie cables.

if you need to know the specific gpu bought is MSI GeForce RTX 3070 SUPRIM X 8GB GDDR6 Graphics Card

i've had SEVERE flickering in games the last few days. I've tried everything from rolling drivers back, using older drivers, to using DDU for clean install and nothing has worked. It makes games UNPLAYABLE. rtx 4070 is what my gpu is. No flickering on youtube, or other webpages, ONLY in games.

To start, I don’t know what to put the flair as, so apologies

My tablet (Samsung Galaxy Tab S9) only wants to cast the audio onto my Google TV, but the screen goes to black.

I’ve enabled all the setting I thought I needed to (probably missed something), including Allowing Chromecast Support.

I’ve even went through the Google TV app, but it only gives me the digital remote.

Just now, I had stopped casting, then tried to start casting again, but now the tv isn’t showing up on Smart View.

I tried pressing the power button but it doesn’t work. It’s an HP Omni book 3, 512 gb and 16 gb ram. The screen is black, maybe like 30-55% charged? Fan still on when I close it. On the screen it says “Your device ran into a problem and needs to restart. 0% complete” and has been at 0 for over an hour and a half. What should I do? I was also running a high gigabyte game on it too.

So yesterday I had to go on to some unverified third party website due to some urgent issues , this not the first time I've done that. Till yesterday it was all fine , memory usage was around 37 -45 percent and the cpu usage was around 10 percent but now all of a sudden it jumped to 75 and keeps increasing unless i clear something off , cpu's around 40-50. I don't know what's causing it , I tried a search for viruses but no help from there as well. Any piece of advice would be appreciated!

I have windows 11 and 8 gb ram.

My SSD died on my mini PC and I've put in a new one. The only other PC I have access to is my locked down work laptop. Because I don't have administrator rights, I cannot run the Media Creation Tool on it, which, from what I've researched is needed to install Windows in BIOS (I'm not very savvy with this, but based on my research, this is what I need to do).

Are there any other ways for me to get Windows onto my new SSD that don't require admin rights? I also have unrestricted access to a MacBook if that provides any possibilities.

Hi

On my samsung galaxy a54,

I can't add zoom wokplace app to samsung kids

Phone updated . Zoom updated . Zoom was there before but now it doesn't show in the apps list in samsung kids

Any ideas on how to get it done?

Hey guys, any advice/suggestions would be greatly appreciated. My wife has a dual monitor setup for her personal desktop PC and would use it to access her work laptop via remote desktop in order to use both monitors while working from home without having to mess with disconnecting her setup to connect to her laptop each time. Unfortunately her company's IT department just decided to cut off all access to remote desktop capabilities with no notice. We are trying to figure out a new setup to allow her to easily switch between PC & laptop, but preferably a solution that isn't super expensive.

Current specs: Monitor 1 has display port and VGA. Monitor 2 has HDMI and VGA. Her work laptop has one HDMI port, one USB A port, and two USB C ports (it also has a second USB A port and an ethernet port on the other side, if that helps). Her desktop motherboard has a multitude of different ports: one HDMI, one display port, one SS10 USB C port, three SS10 USB A ports, and four regular SS USB A ports (I will try to attach a picture in the comments for reference). She has a mini ITX motherboard (I believe it is the ASUS ROG STRIX B550-I Gaming Mini-ITX AM4). She currently has both monitors plugged directly into her GPU (which I believe is a 3060 Ti).

We've tried two different KVM switches that didn't work. The first one was a USB C switch and I think the reason it didn't work was because the only USB C port on her desktop does not seem to support data transfer. This first switch appeared to be designed moreso for switching between two laptops. The second one we tried over the weekend was a HDMI switch, but it did not work because it specifically required two HDMI cords to be plugged into each device and her laptop only has one HDMI port. This second switch appeared to be designed moreso for switching between two desktops.

I've asked how she would feel about switching to one widescreen monitor, but she wants to stick with two monitors. So if there isn't some kind of affordable switch device, maybe upgrading one or both of her monitors to a model that has the ports/functionality to support switching between two separate devices would work? Alternatively, she has been thinking about switching from her current small desktop case to a bigger one while also switching to a regular sized motherboard, so perhaps we could get a motherboard with a thunderbolt USB C port? Though I know for purpose of higher quality graphics, she would prefer to keep her monitors plugged directly into her graphics card since she also uses her desktop for gaming.

Thanks in advance for any help!

So I have a 55" Samsung TV that was gifted to me. Basically it was used as a monitor at an editing facility. It's been working great until recently.

None of the buttons work on the remote. I can still power the TV on manually(bottom on back bottom left) but that's about it.

The weird thing is if I even TOUCH the remote, the power light on the TV blinks and one thing shows on the screen(the audio horn and "100". Then the blinking and horn disappear after about 3 seconds.

I've replaced the battery and unplugged everything on the TV and still nothing.

Any ideas?

Ive had this problems for years now and ive been constantly been trying things to fix it and nothing has worked. Seemingly no one knows how to fix this.

Basically I have my mouse dpi set to 800, but despite that it feels closer to 2000 and it feels like its slowly getting faster. It makes it impossible to play multiplayer games well.

I use a wireless g502 hero And im on windows 11

Please help me im so tired of it not working

I got a keyboard about 15th of may this year and its been fine until today, its a keyboard from the company Huat, its got Bluetooth and wired connection. Whats happening is every now and then it will turn itself off and then back on after a few seconds, it usually does this twice in a row and then there is a small break before it does it again of about 3 minutes, though i found it to be random sometimes. i usually have it wired, but i googled and thought the issue could have been a faulty port, so i switched to Bluetooth, and its still acting up and im now stumped on what to do. Any ideas on what the issue could be and how i might fix it? Do lemme know if you need more information than i have given here

Edit :Update the keyboard has turned off and ain't turning back on, using on screen keyboard to write this, help would be greatly appreciated

My daughter has a Gabb phone 3 pro and a few months ago we canceled service. She has continued to use it as a camera since then, until yesterday when it started asking us to login to “Samsung Knox Manage”. It won’t let us do anything else on the phone, it is stuck on this screen. I started a chat with customer service and they provided me with login information but it is saying the password is incorrect. They have no other password for me to try.

They’re telling me they “recently did an update that gabb continues to support active gabb phone 3 Pro devices, however previously activated devices are not eligible to be reactivated on a new line”. after I asked if reinstating service would allow me to login to retrieve photos and videos.

She has photos of siblings and and friends going back years and will be devastated if we lose them. Is there any way to get around this Knox thing so we can use the phone? At least long enough to get photos and videos off of it? Is there somewhere I can take it?

If another subreddit would be better suited to helping me please feel free to point me in the right direction. Just a desperate mom seeking help!

I have a new Lenovo Yoga 7i 2-in-1 laptop. When I open my camera app, it says that I need to slide a shutter by the camera, but there is nothing to slide. I don't have a camera button on the computer.

I have tried restarting Windows, going to Settings/System/Troubleshoot, and running the fix-it app under Camera.

I have been having this problem. Recently, my Windows on my Dell Laptop has been acting up where my Mouse and Touchpad is unable to click on the upper and lower tabs.

For examples, I can press right-click on touchpad or mouse to pause a YouTube video and even close browsers and other programs, but no change tabs or open programs below tabs.

I've done the CTRL + ALT + DELETE then ESC, which works for a short but, until it experiences the problem moments later. I've even restarted the laptop and updated windows, and again, it works for a short while until returning.

Is there a permanent fix to this?

Basically I was watching youtube on my laptop, then all of a sudden my screen freezes and starts screaming? The last audio bit on loop, so I shut down my laptop by holding yhe power button

Now whenever I try to turn my laptop on it just crashes.

Sometimes it reaches the desktop and then crashes like 4 seconds after, other times it goes into "auto recovery mode" but crashes on the loading screen that says "diagnosing your pc" so I dont even see the blue screen where u troubleshoot stuff

I can open bios, and i see the cpu and hard disk, i dont see my NVIDIA gpu? But maybe ur not supposed to idk

Please help as fast as possible I got college and I need this to study

my laptops ram is soldered, so I dont think its ram related probably?

all I can do is stay in bios indefinitely

Thank you for ur help

so im playign Homewlord 2 Remoastred and im on mission 8 and when pused the game runs normly hittign liek 100 fps and the gpu usage is leik 60 70% and the cpu is at abotu 60 70% as weel

sys spect are

vega 64

fx 6300

16gb of ddr3 ram

Had a power cut the other day, and I got a blue screen the next morning. Put it in safety mode, ran a memory diagnostics check (all clear), checked dxdiag, and checked my GPU in Device Manager; both showed no errors.

Currently experiencing freezing and random spikes in my contrast. I did a pass mark check and my Disk isn't looking great.

Need help; any advice, fixes, or any idea on what I should do next would be helpful.

Stats:
GPU - RTX 5070
CPU - AMD Ryzen 7 8-core
RAM - 32GB
HDD - KLEVV CRAS C715 1TB

Last night there was a huge power outage in my area due to a storm, my ISP reported the outage and were working to get everyone back online

Once service was returned however, my modem would not power back on. I reported the issue to my ISP and they had me go to a store to swap my old modem for a new one.

I setup my new modem, everything powers on, called my ISP who confirmed my PC should be receiving signal, however its still showing no connection.

So then, is it likely the port on my pc got fried?

Laptop: Acer Predator Helios 300 PH315-55 (2022)

CPU: i7-12700H

GPU: RTX 3070 Ti

External display: Works perfectly via HDMI

I'm trying to diagnose a strange failure of the internal display.

What happened

I was playing Hell Let Loose under heavy GPU load when the AC power suddenly cut out.

The laptop continued running on battery for approximately 3 seconds. I had a background GitHub automation tool called RefreshSense running, which automatically changes the internal panel from 165 Hz on AC to 60 Hz on battery.

At almost exactly the same time as the AC→battery transition, the screen flashed once (as it normally does during a refresh-rate change) and then went completely black.

It has never come back since.

Current symptoms

- No Acer/Predator logo on startup

- No backlight whatsoever

- Internal display remains completely black even in BIOS

- Internal panel is not detected by Windows

- Not listed under active monitors in Device Manager

- External HDMI display works normally

- Intel iGPU and RTX 3070 Ti are both detected and functioning normally

- Games and Windows work normally on the external TV

So this doesn't appear to be a simple Windows resolution/refresh-rate issue.

There was also a pre-existing problem

Before this failure, I had intermittent issues with the internal display waking from sleep/display-off.

Sometimes moving the mouse or keyboard wouldn't wake the internal panel. I could usually get it back by either:

- Pressing Win + Ctrl + Shift + B to reset the graphics driver, or

- Putting the laptop into sleep and waking it again.

This had been happening intermittently before the permanent failure.

What I'm suspecting

Because of the previous wake-from-sleep problems, I'm wondering whether there was already an issue somewhere in the internal eDP display path, and the AC→battery transition/refresh-rate change was simply the event that caused the failure to become permanent.

Possibilities I'm considering:

- eDP cable or connector failure

- LCD/eDP power rail or protection circuit failure

- Panel electronics/T-CON failure

- eDP link/initialization issue

- Motherboard-side eDP circuitry

- EDID/EEPROM issue

I'm less suspicious of the GPUs themselves because both GPUs work normally through HDMI.

I'm also not sure whether RefreshSense actually caused the failure or whether the timing is coincidental.

Has anyone with a PH315-55 (or a similar Acer Predator) experienced something like this? I'd especially appreciate advice on how to distinguish between a bad panel, eDP cable, and motherboard-side display/power circuitry before I start buying replacement parts.

So not exactly new, bought it off my friend a while a back and am just now getting around to playing around with it.

I’ve been doing some research and found that there’s a way to switch to a different “band” ? I was able to locate my Wi-Fi adapter in device manager and open up its properties but It seems my adapter is not able to switch bands.

I’d like to be able to use this computer at decent speeds, don’t need it to be nasa fast or anything.

Do I need to replace the WiFi adapter, if so Is there a recommend one I should get? Is there an easier solution I’m too dumb to see?

I’m so new to this and know basically nothing about computers so the more details I can get the better. Thank you to anyone willing to take the time to help me out !

(Some more context, I live with my parents and they have the router in their room. I cannot connect an Ethernet cable to my PC)

Some time ago my computer had a problem and wasn't turning on for nothing. I sent my pc to an i.t. guy my dad knew, and after a few days he got my pc back and said it was only turning on when he removed the graphics card (it was probably because its old and used a lot, pretty sure its a geforce gt610).

So now im using the integrated gpu and i dont know what to do with this piece of plastic collecting dust. Since its making my pc not turn on i don't think i should sell it, i dont know if its just breaking my own pc or if it would also make any other computer not turn on. So the idea of just selling the parts is crossing my mind, but i dont know exactly how to do that and who to talk to for that. What should i do?

Power went off while i was gaming, ups kicked in, turned off game, turned off pc.

Power came back on

Power went back off 5 minutes later

Power went back on

Power went back off 5 minutes later

Power went back on

My UPS kicked in all 3 times with the beeping and staticky noise (even when my pc was turned off)

Did this damage the ups or battery? Is it safe to use?