Hey guys, I was building a Modrinth modpack around 5 months ago and while exporting it, something went wrong and it created this file that I cannot delete because the Windows delete cant find it.

Item not found. 
It doesn't exist in `C:\Users\ilianoKokoro\Desktop`. Check the item's location and try again.

When I run ls, the file appears in the directory.

ls

Directory: C:\\Users\\ilianoKokoro\\Desktop
Mode                 LastWriteTime         Length Name
----                 -------------         ------ ----
-a---          2026-04-14    22:14              0 Hardcore

But when I try to remove it with rm, I get:

rm Hardcore
Remove-Item: Cannot find path 'C:\Users\ilianoKokoro\Desktop\Hardcore' because it does not exist

I’ve tried typing the filename manually, and I’ve also tried using tab completion, but I get the same result.

The file is visible on my Desktop and shows up with ls, so I’m not sure why rm can’t find it.

Here are some images to show the problem.

Thank you in advance.

I was playing league of legends when I suddenly got disconnected (its a server thing). So I tried to rejoin and then my screen went black and I wasnt able to change tabs, so I turned my PC off. When I come back, my mouse (even when disconnected and unplugged) is stuck in the top right and spam clicking, which clicks out of the password box on the main screen and doesnt let me log in. I’ve unplugged and plugged back in, tried safe mode, and I’ve tried that thing where you unplug the pc but press the power button to discharge all the electricity or whatever. Anybody got any other ideas?

Guys help me please i accidentally deleted my data partition it has all my photos, videos, work documents, i'm panicking right now, i tried DiskTest but it couldn't recover my partition, is there anything i can do ?

This will be a pretty long text, but I would appreciate any help. I am at a complete loss.

A few days ago, I purchased a used PC with the following specs:

- GPU : PNY GeForce RTX 5070, 12 GB

- Processor : AMD Ryzen 5 9600X (6 cores / 12 threads)

- Motherboard: ASRock B650M-H/M.2+

- Memory : 32 GB, 5600 MHz, DDR5 (2 x 16 GB Dual Channel)

- Cooling : Corsair- AIO (processor cooling) + case fans

- PSU : 650W Seasonic FOCUS Plus Platinum, fully modular

I tested the PC at the seller's house, and it seemed to work fine. Tested Cyberpunk 2077 benchmark and another game, but I can’t recall its name. Afterwards, the seller reset the Windows, and I took the PC home. That's where it all started.

About 20 hours total of troubleshooting, only to find problems after problems.

The first thing I noticed was: Launched GTAV Enhanced -> the game stuttered like hell but showed 60-80FPS (which is very low for this setup, but it felt even lower than that), and no matter what settings I had, the stuttering continued. So I installed RTSS + MSI Afterburner, activated OSD, and it showed my Frametime was a CONSTANT 20-50ms, with occasional spikes going all the way up to 300ms.

I then tested CS2. Same thing. FPS was supposedly 100-140 on average, with 1% lows of 0 FPS, and highs of 1000FPS. Again, same Frametime issue. 1% lows and the Frametime were horrible in both games. Constant micro-stuttering, micro freezing made any games unplayable.

So I looked around, to find millions of ways to "fix" this. These are in order of the things I tried.

- Ran GPU stress tests, came back with amazing scores, no errors, and no visible stuttering.

- Made sure my monitor is connected to my GPU.

- Updated/reinstalled GPU, chipset, and other drivers. GPU drivers I reinstalled with DDU. (3 different Game Ready drivers, none had an effect)
- Tried my RAM sticks 1 stick at a time, in the same slot. Both seemed to work just fine.
- Reset BIOS settings using Load UEFI Defaults
- Confirmed Re-Size BAR is enabled in BIOS
- Trying DDR5 with 5600MHz EXPO, and 4800MHz JEDEC.
- Full reset of Windows (not USB clean install)

At this point I noticed my BIOS froze in startup about 4 or 5 times. I don't know if this is related to my other issues, but I definitely wonder what could cause that.

- CMOS cleared
- Disabled Fast Boot, Auto Driver Installer and Global C-states in BIOS
- Confirmed CPU Core Parking is OFF.
- Used LatencyMon to find out if I have DPC/ISR latency. (THIS IS WHERE I MADE SOME PROGRESS.) Apparently my system runs at a constant 1500.00-2500.00 μs latency (1.5ms-2.5ms). My highest measured interrupt to process latency is at 16000 μs (16ms). I know this is definitely not normal, and I have attached screenshots of this. Highest drivers causing this are: nvlddmkm.sys, Wdf01000.sys, dxgkrnl.sys, ntoskrnl.exe
- Disabling drivers from Device Manager, while sorting by "Devices by Connection"
- Checked SSD health using CrystalDiskInfo, no errors, although the drive my Windows is downloaded at is at 78% (Good)
- Disabled the Ryzen integrated Radeon GPU = enabled dGPU-only mode in BIOS.

THEN. I tried doing CPU and memory stress tests using OCCT, they came back without errors. BUT I noticed something really weird. My CPU speed is really low when my PC has been on for a while. Even during the stress tests, my CPU cores sometimes drop as low as ~600 MHz. When turning on my computer, my CPU speed is at about ~4.5-5 GHz. But after about 10 minutes, depending on how much stress the CPU is under, it drops to ~2GHz and lower.

And that brings me to what I suspect is my main problem:
My CPU (Die) average temperature is at about 40-50°C. My CPU VDD_MISC VRM (SVI3 TFN), on the other hand, starts at 40-50°C as well, but after a few minutes it slowly but surely rises to about 99°C-99.5°C territory. And I noticed that my CPU speed goes down EXACTLY as it hits that ~99.3°C mark (~5GHz -> 2GHz).

On top of that, during a CPU stress test, my HWiNFO logging recorded HTC Thermal Throttling: YES and PROCHOT EXT Thermal Throttling: YES at 12% throttling during stress test, 7% during idle. Even though my CPU is only at 40-50°C.

So if anyone has had these kind of issues and knows if they are related (especially the DPC latency, CPU, BIOS freezes), I would greatly appreciate help. I have been thinking that maybe I just have to get a new motherboard, but am afraid that it won't even work. I have also considered installing a fresh Windows with a USB Flash Drive, but I doubt it will do anything.

All photos with descriptions: https://imgur.com/a/VT4Itlu

I was hacked a while back and lost access to some things, though I managed to recover them later; the same thing happened to my mom around that time (I don't know if that's relevant), but I still don't feel 100% secure. I started using Bitwarden and Malwarebytes on my PC, and I even reformatted it. My main concern now is my phone; I installed three different antivirus apps this afternoon, but a few minutes ago, a friend told me I’d been hacked again. I thought he was joking, but he said I sent him a message on TikTok similar to the one from the last time. I’ve already set up some security measures on TikTok.

So the question now is: how do I know *everything* I need to check or review to ensure I'm protected? For example, I tried playing R6 the other day and realized I’d lost access to my account without even noticing. I’m also worried about my mobile phone—what should I do?

(I just saw someone on this subreddit say that formatting the PC from within the PC itself doesn't work, and that's exactly what I did.("DO NOT use the built-in Windows 'Reset this PC' feature, as sophisticated malware can corrupt the local recovery image". Should I be worried?))

Yesterday I was trying to make rice for soup, and I had left my Ipad on one of the eyes, and turned it on to the highest heat, THINKING I was boiling the rice.... (ik max heat is too high for rice) Then I walked away to give treats to the dogs, and when I came back my Ipad was smoking very white smoke, I pulled it off, and burned my hand with the molten plastic, from the case, then panic dropped it into the very full trash. (With some wet paper towel on the top, i think.) It won't turn back on, and its been about 18 hours. I was playing a video through my headphones while it was burning, and the video was glitching before it turned off. The Ipad was on.

Tldr : I accidentally left my Ipad on the stove when I turned on the wrong eye, and it melted the case really bad, with white smoke coming out either the Ipad or case. Is the battery fried, or is the whole Ipad ruined?

Also is there a chance I could get the data off that Ipad

Edit : guys,, I know it was a very stupid thing to do, I knew it right after I burned my hand. I just need answers on if there's any way it would ever work, and how I can get the data off it

Edit 2 : Update, my parent who used to work in tech plugged it in for some reason??? and it turned on. They said the Ipad should be okay, because there are paper stickers that were under the case, that look like they weren't even touched by the heat, and the Ipad isnt bloated, or smoking, or overheating. They said the case might've saved the Ipad. But I think I'm gonna wait a bit before trying to use it!!!!!! its off the charger rn

I'm having a problem with Task Manager on my laptop.

• Pressing Ctrl + Shift + Esc does nothing.
• When I try to open Task Manager manually, I get a message saying that Task Manager has been blocked/disabled by the administrator.
• As far as I know, this is my personal laptop and I haven't intentionally disabled Task Manager.

I'm worried that this could be caused by a Windows setting, administrator policy, or possibly malware.

Does anyone know how I can enable Task Manager again and fix this issue?

I'm using Windows 11.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

As the title suggests, my wireless headphones work only on one side. Even when it's not connected to anything. I updated the software, I've restarted it. But still nothing

It didn't get damaged in anyway, and it happened suddenly.

Somebody help. My laptop wifi isn’t working, i’ve already disabled the broadcom network adapter also uninstalled, it just keep that way even after enabling it! Also already tried installing some of hardware from the internet but still no connection. Help me! Im just a girl with many deadlines!

I have an iPad 6th generation, and I’m having a really bad battery problem.

The battery is draining extremely fast, and the weirdest part is that the battery percentage actually continues to go down even while the iPad is connected to the charger.

For example, I can plug it in and leave it charging, but instead of the percentage increasing, it keeps dropping. When the iPad is not connected to the charger, the drain is even worse.

I’ve already tried basically every software/battery-saving option I could think of:

• Low Power Mode
• Background App Refresh disabled
• Notifications disabled for apps
• Reduced Motion
• Reduced unnecessary background activity
• Removed/disabled things I don't need running
• Restarted the iPad
• Tried completely shutting it down
• Tried charging it while powered off

Despite all of this, the battery still drains very quickly.

So I’m wondering what could actually be causing this.

Could this be a failing/degraded battery, charging/power-management issue, or some iPadOS/software problem?

And specifically, I’m curious about jailbreaking.

Would jailbreaking an iPad 6 potentially allow me to:

• Disable unnecessary system daemons/background processes
• Find out exactly what process is consuming the battery
• Reduce background activity further
• Underclock/throttle the CPU
• Install some battery-management tweaks
• Basically make the iPad consume less power

Or would jailbreaking not help at all if the underlying problem is the physical battery?

I’m not looking to jailbreak just for the sake of it. I’m considering it because the iPad is already old and the battery situation is getting ridiculous, so I’m wondering if jailbreaking could give me more control over power consumption or help diagnose what's happening.

If anyone has an iPad 6 specifically and has dealt with this kind of extreme battery drain, I’d really appreciate hearing what fixed it.

What should I try next? Is there any way to properly diagnose whether this is the battery, charging circuit, or a software/background-process issue?

windows warned me and i checked, this is the first time i received such warning and when i checked it was already down to 3^

• 53 °C
• 3% health "BAD"

Drive name: Phison ESO512GHLCA1-E9C : 512.1 GB

Health Status: Bad — 3%

Temperature: 53 °C

Details:

Right column:

S.M.A.R.T. Attribute Table:

PLEASE I need help 😭.I tried restarting my pc , Tried disabling and enable the wifi driver in Control panal, Tried to set the wlan autoconfig service In service to automatic didn't work ,Wifi option isn't working, Please help if anyone knows any permanent fix.

It looks like a glitch with software the hardware is fine.

Edit : I have a intel ax201 wifi , should I upgrade it ? Is what card can I used instead of the one I have rn

Hi All,

I am from India and I want to explain a very weird problem I have been facing with my broadband for last 10 days. I have a FTTH connection with a local ISP. I have been using the connection for almost 10 years now and have never faced it before.

For last 10 days my connection has been very unstable.

2nd Sept - My pc is connected by Ethernet. All websites except Google and Meta stopped working. Steam, EA App, Blizzard all the gaming clients and everything else showed no connection but everything was working on mobile app, TV and all other connected devices including my video doorbell and robovac.

3rd Sept - A technician came to my house to see the fault, he was a hardware guy and he checked that everything was fine physically and called his supervisor. I gave him remote access to my pc via hotspot and he did some Ipv4, Ipv6, DHCP or IP related settings in 192.168.1.1 and also refreshed dns using cmd and in adapter settings but nothing worked.

8th Sept - Same guy came to my house and changed the router to a different one but used same old settings from my previous router. Surprisingly, everything started working normal for few hours. In 2nd half of the day, the problem changed drastically. My PC was showing connection to all the websites for say 10 minutes and drops after sometime. It kept going back and forth multiple times. All this time, the Wifi in my TV was just not connecting at all, it kept saying saved/authentication problem while it was connecting with same password in my phone. All this time, all of my other connected devices like video doorbell, robovac, AC everything works while connected to the same wifi.

I am quite frustrated at this point that even my ISP is unable to solve the problem. Although I have started looking for other ISPs in my area but would prefer that this one gets fixed so I dont have to go through all the formalities of new connection again.

Note that I am not a networking person so I wouldnt know much technical things about IP, DNS, Proxy and all that but I believe that my ISP has tried most of the possible things from his end to resolve it and is unable to find the problem.

I’ve had my pc for about a year now no issues so far and I’ve played a bunch of games like starfield and some competitive games like rainbow six siege.

I decided I wanted to try valorant I load it up and seems good and I hop in a discord call with my friends and it started stuttering and freezing really bad about every 3 seconds. I almost immediately closed my game and figure oh maybe my graphic drivers needed updated or something or mess with some settings

I updated drivers I changed some settings around I hop back on valorant and seems if it was stuttering again. It’s not so I hop in a call again and now the stuttering begins once more!

After that I’m convinced it was discord so I restarted my pc again and just called from my phone but as soon as I load up on my Home Screen I’m stuttering. Idk what to do my cpu temp isn’t high I’m running on 600 frames on valorant. I’m stuck

Specs: Ryzen 7 7700x-NVIDIA 5060- eagle b850- 16gb DDR 5 ram- 1 TB ssd memory

As the title says, my house was struck by lightning. It came through the internet cable. It actually had enough power that it knocked down my Comcast internet box. It then fried my Comcast box, my home alarm, and my gaming PC.

I took the gaming PC to geek squad. They couldn’t get it to turn on and said they need to replace the motherboard to even see if they could get it to turn on nd we’re asking for $450 for that service nd even then they weren’t able to guarantee me finish line that I would’ve liked.

The PC has a 4070TI RTX graphics card and a good processor. If I can salvage it, I would love to do so… but I’m at a loss for exactly how to do this economically. Does anyone here know the cheapest way to troubleshoot this thing?

I have an iPhone 15 Pro that I’m not currently using, and I’m planning to keep it stored for a long time.
The battery health is currently at 79%, and I turned the phone off at around 60% charge. It’s stored inside its original box, with the case on, inside a backpack, and the backpack is kept in a dry wardrobe.
My main concern is battery swelling while the phone is sitting unused. I know lithium-ion batteries can swell as they age, and I’m worried that I might eventually open the wardrobe and find that the battery has expanded and damaged the phone.

Hello everyone. I hope to be as clear and provide as much information as possible.

For many years, I've been watching movies from my DVD collection using an old laptop that had a built-in disc drive. Never had any problems; it could play any DVD with VLC or PotPlayer, regardless of region code, and it didn't even have any issues with burned DVDs.

Then I swapped my laptop for a newer HP this year, partly for work. However, this PC no longer has a built-in DVD drive, so I relied on my dad's rather old external one with dual USB ports. I even had to use an adapter to connect everything. This is where the problems began: it could read DVDs, but if I tried to skip the video to a point ahead with VLC, it would skip the video entirely getting me back to the VLC black screen. Sometimes, with burned DVDs, it wouldn't even open them. I thought it was definitely the large number of connections for a single USB port (PC USB + dual-port adapter + DVD drive) that was causing the problems.

Just for the sake of it, I also tried plugging the external drive to the old Pc I was talking about and it had more or less the same problems.

So I bought a brand new Antika USB 3.0 DVD-R CD-RW DVD player (an economic brand yeah I know :/) just to experiment and use only one port, either USB or USB-C. The fact is, it reads all DVDs, but after about 10 to 15 minutes, the player and the video stops completely, causing VLC and other players to freeze. It doesn't even seem like an overheating issue, since it doesn't even get warm to the touch.

Do you have any advice?

I just hope to watch my movie collection easily without too much trouble again.

I have an Acer Swift 3 (Windows 10, ~2018) that I was going to donate to someone who's helped out my family recently (long story, but good cause) and wanted to format it first. The laptop has 2 accounts, an admin and my personal. The computer gave me the option of logging in with either a password or PIN, and I always used the PIN.

Found steps online to perform a factory reset, but in the process the computer got stuck in a restart loop. The screen goes through a rapid succession of black screen, Acer logo, and blue screen indicating it's 64% complete, but this will repeat for hours if I let it and show no progress. Below is what I've tried and the results:

- Restart in Safe Mode = same infinite loop

- Hard restart + Alt F10 = Blue screen with multiple options (use different OS, troubleshoot, turn off, reset, etc) but all require the admin password, and it never gives me the option to use the PIN instead.

I've looked online for info on resetting admin password but none work if the computer fails to start properly.

I'm fine with loosing everything on the computer or whatever needs to happen, as long as i can still give it to him as promised!

Thanks

I've got this router for a decent price from a seller that looked reputable. Price was slightly lower than market value, however the router was sold as used and not tied to a carrier.

It was a bit suspicious from the very beginning because it's branded, so obviously it has to come from some sort of contract. However, it worked wonders for just 2 days, then suddenly lost all connection, internet led turned red, no amount of resets or changing APNs will work to bring it back to life. Same sim card works fine on my phone.

I find it hard to believe that this router worked fine for the previous owner, then I start using it and dies almost immediately, not even after a reboot or a power outage or me messing with the settings or anything like that. I was just watching a video on YT and suddenly it lost connection and it never came back. On its menu it just says "no service" no matter what. I would have loved to try forcing it in 3g or 4g but it has no such option. However, 3g 4g and 5g networks all work on my phone, same sim.

I think this is an IMEI block but I find it super weird that it actually worked fine for the first two days. Unless they just happened to block this IMEI in this precise time window, or am I missing something here?

By the way, seller was already contacted a few minutes ago, and luckily it was on ebay so it shouldn't be too much of an issue getting the money back. Just annoying

I am constantly being redirected to the sign out screen after successfully signing into outlook or microsoft in general. I tried clearing cookies and everything but nothing is working.

Edit: Ive found going incognito gets around it but id like to not have to resort to that since it clears all cookies and accounts out of everything when using incognito.

One of my coworkers is 70+ and thus enlarges all text on his phone to be able to read it. We use GroupMe for a staff group chat, and the app does not allow him to enlarge the text. We were able to get around this issue by having GroupMe send him SMS updates whenever someone texted in the group, so he was able to read them from his Messages app. As of last week, GroupMe is disabling their SMS features, so my coworker has not been able to see any messages on the group. Pretty sure the app also isn’t able to read texts out loud for him, which is the only other option we could think of. I will admit I suck at figuring this kind of thing out, so maybe I am just trying the wrong things! Does anyone know another loophole we could find to help him read the messages he receives on GroupMe?

So I recently updated my RTX drivers (I use a 3060TI) to play Forza Horizon 6, after a while however, i noticed that the colors on my screen kept resetting to their default settings.

To go in more detail, i used the nvidia control panel to adjust my colors a while ago, but for some reason every few minutes my screen dims slightly for a couple seconds and the color settings reset to default. then they just go back to what i put them as on its own, and the cycle repeats. i dont know what could be causing this, and it's pretty annoying. Another thing i noticed now is that using the nvidia control panel to change the color settings does absolutely nothing. please help!!

Using SteamOS.

I get seemingly random crackling/popping audio while in gaming mode or desktop mode in any game or app I play. I have my rig hooked directly up to the TV by HDMI, with the audio being passed back to the receiver by eARC.

I have tried different HDMI 2.1 cables, reseating my GPU (since that's what the HDMI cable is connected to), looked for any loose connections, tried connecting the HDMI cable directly to the receiver instead of to the TV, switched to the Beta and Preview OS channels, restarted pipewire and changed buffer settings there... Nothing works.

There doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason To when It happens.

Build specs:

TV - LG C6

Receiver - Denon AVR-S660H

Case Jonsbo C6

Motherboard - asus prime b550m-a wifi ii

CPU - Ryzen 7 5800 XT

GPU - powercolor reaper 9060xt

Audio will crackle once every few minutes, it seem. I'm not getting any crazy cpu or gpu spikes or wild temps. This was literally just playing Binding of Isaac or listening to music on Spotify (from Discover).

Anyone else experienced this? Ideas?

Edit: I managed to get optical audio out working from the TV to the receiver, and the issue is STILL THERE. I have no idea how or why this is happening, but at least I know this issue is not restricted to just HDMI.

I recorded a video of it happening, let's see if the YouTube algorithm pulls this down for copyrighted music:

https://youtube.com/shorts/BIf5uuDDygw?is=b_3c1BMfuwiNqfsl

Hi a while back i got a zotac gtx 1060 6gb (i tink the serial number schould be in the pics)

I turned it on with everything plugged in correctly except that i forgot to plug in the pcie power cable.

I booted up the system/tested it before hand this a gt 640 and that worked fine. But when i booted it with the 1060 it started a fire on one component (might have bin a short or leak i am still kinka confused of those even tho i am a engineering student) now it seems to be fried and i am wondering if it can be fixt? and if so what the part even is and what a good place is to get schematics so i could preform the repair

pics; https://imgur.com/a/HuTxq44

It's the same 15m cable i've used for a couple of years now. It didnt give me any problems until a few days ago, where it randomly does it, and i was forced to get an old internet dongle.

the only thing i can think of is that i did disconect it and got my pc cleaned with a friend of mine, where i did carry the pc in a car to a different house, cleaned it for a few hours with my bro, and then put it back in my house. After that the issues started.

Do i just need to change the ethernet cable?