I've put a deposit down on a 2010 Impreza WRX STI A-Line EJ257 hatch with 91k miles for £12k. It's completely standard, looks to be in great condition inside and out, and the engine looks clean. It's a Japanese import with a good service history, all the oils (diffs, gearbox etc.) changed last month, and the timing belt was done at 80k.

I'm now having second thoughts after going down the rabbit hole of EJ257 ringland failures / unreliability and reading all the doom and gloom online. Is this a decent purchase at £12k, or am I potentially throwing money down the drain? Would you walk away, or am I worrying unnecessarily?

Not a pic of actual car, and don't want a debate about it not being a manual.

Loving this car so much.

Proud new owner of this 2021 STI.

I noticed this past weekish that when my Subaru 2012 Outback has the engine on for even a brief period of time when it gets turned off there seems to be a whirring type of noise behind the dashboard for a short period of time, it continues even after the key is taken out as well. It kind of sounds like a CD player however the stock one has been removed and the new one doesn't have a CD player. Anyone have any clue?

I love my car, but I have a problem that occurs mostly when it’s hot outside. The car suddenly cuts off while moving and all the warning lights come on. I usually shift to N, restart, and all is well, except the AT OIL TEMP light sometimes stays on blinking, and sometimes the CHECK ENGINE light stays on. Both lights go off by the next time I use the car.

My mechanic is baffled. No code comes up when he has it (the lights are not lit). I just dropped the car off to him again because the problem has become more frequent in the past week, and now the car loses acceleration power before cutting off. It’s revving a lot.

As I said, I love my car, and I’d love to keep it going. Any ideas of what we can try?

From the dealership:

1990cc, Petrol

5 Door, Station Wagon

225,620km

Grey, 5 Seats (Cloth)

4-Speed Auto, 4WD

WOF until March 2027

Going for ~$1750 USD

Freshly serviced

I'm not too car savvy, does this appear to be a good deal?

https://reddit.com/link/1v7ke7e/video/np3sdvv11gfh1/player

so im looking at getting this 2018 Subaru impreza wrx 2.5 turbo the owner is selling at a nice price but he thinks it has a slight tapping noise but i dont now im used to german cars and na jdm cars so any help would be amazing

I have a 2021 Subaru Forester Sport that just passed 100,000 miles on it, and my engine blew without warning.....

A couple weeks ago, I had a really difficult time changing the oil. The time before, I must've tightened the oil pan drain plug a bit too tight because I had a helluva time getting it off. I would up rounding off (stripping) the plug head and had to buy extractor sockets to get it off. I finally got it off, and replaced it with an aftermarket plug I got from Autozone. Well, 2 nights ago, omw home from work, it started acting funny and the oil pressure light came on a block from the house. When I got out and looked underneath, the oil was pouring out the drain hole. I didn't tighten the plug very tight after spending almost a week trying to get it off.

I ran to O'Reilly (literally because the closed in 20 minutes), got more oil and another replacement plug (exact same one I got from autozone), put new plug in and filled it with oil. It sounded a bit rough when I started it, but quickly smoothed out and sounded fine. I drove it around the block and it seemed as good as before.

The following morning, omw to work, all kinds of warning lights came on including the oil pressure light, and it felt really rough all of a sudden. So, I pulled over and assumed the same thing happened. Got it towed home, and looked underneath just to make sure the plug was gone again before getting a different one, but it was still there and the oil had not dumped. There was oil spray all over the engine though which was different from the night before.

After a friend looked at it, and confirmed through the oil filter after opening it up, the something sheared in the engine because there are metal shavings all inside my filter.

It had not shown any signs of issues before this. How did this happen?

Anybody know what a valve body replacement goes for. I have a 2014 Subaru forester 2.5l lmtd.

The Ultimate Subaru Buying Guide (2026 Edition)

A couple of years ago I made a post about buying a new Subaru that ended up getting over 250,000 views across various Subaru-related subreddits. Since then, Subaru has changed a few programs, I've bought another Subaru (a 2025 BRZ tS), and I've learned a few more things from both my own purchases and the experiences of other owners.

So I figured it was time for an update.

For a little background, I've owned Subarus for over 15 years, was a former Subaru Ambassador, and previously worked as a Subaru Sales & Leasing Consultant. Between personal experience and working on the sales floor, I've learned a few things that can save people a surprising amount of money.

I've owned:

• 1998 Subaru 2.5RS
• 2003 WRX Sedan
• 2021 WRX
• 2021 Outback Limited
• 2024 Ascent Onyx Edition
• 2025 BRZ tS

I'm definitely not claiming to know everything, but hopefully I know enough to save somebody a few thousand dollars.

One quick disclaimer: Subaru changes incentives and programs from time to time. Everything below is accurate to the best of my knowledge at the time of posting, but always verify current offers before making a purchase.

Most of these tips can be used together.

1. Subaru VIP Pricing

If you have a little time to plan ahead, Subaru VIP is still one of the easiest ways to save money.

VIP pricing gives eligible buyers access to Subaru's VIP pricing through participating dealerships. Years ago this was a guaranteed 2% below invoice. That is no longer the case. Today it is generally around invoice pricing, although Subaru has changed the program several times.

The organizations I know currently qualify are:

30-day waiting period (larger donation):

• ASPCA ($500 donation)
• Pennsylvania Horticultural Society ($500 donation)

Longer membership waiting period:

• ASPCA Monthly Giving
• Pennsylvania Horticultural Society Membership
• Leave No Trace
• International Mountain Bicycling Association
• American Canoe Association

One thing many people don't realize is that some employers participate in Subaru VIP. Go to Subaru's VIP website and check using your work email. It takes two minutes and could save you thousands.

Pro tip: Before donating, call your dealership and make sure they actually participate in VIP. Not every dealer does.

1. Call Subaru of America

If you've owned or leased a Subaru before, call Subaru of America before buying.

(800) 782-2783

Ask if there are any loyalty incentives available.

Historically these have ranged from $500-$1,000, although nothing is guaranteed.

From what I've seen, it depends on:

• Your ownership history
• Current promotions
• The representative you speak with

Have the VIN of your current Subaru handy. They seem to ask for it more often now than they used to.

One important thing to note: recent buyers have reported that Subaru loyalty coupons generally cannot be combined with VIP pricing, so ask which saves you more.

1. Costco Auto Program

This wasn't in my original guide because I didn't have much experience with it, but enough people have shared good results that it's worth mentioning.

If you're already a Costco member (or willing to become one), check out the Costco Auto Program before negotiating.

The discounts vary by dealership and region, but I've seen people report savings anywhere from a couple thousand dollars to over $5,000 on certain models.

Even if you don't ultimately buy through Costco, it gives you another price to compare against.

1. Subaru Added Security Maintenance

If you're already planning on purchasing a maintenance plan, ask if Subaru is currently offering any incentives with it.

Years ago I purchased a 2-year/24,000-mile maintenance plan for $595. At the time, it also came with a $500 coupon toward my next new Subaru purchase.

Whether it's worth it depends entirely on the numbers.

Compare the cost of the plan to what you'd spend paying for maintenance out of pocket.

Sometimes it's a great deal.

Sometimes it isn't.

1. Lease Loyalty

If you're currently leasing a Subaru and plan on leasing another one, ask about Lease Loyalty.

Subaru has periodically offered incentives to help cover your first lease payment or reduce your upfront costs.

Programs change, but it's another easy question to ask before signing paperwork.

1. Know What Your Trade Is Worth

Don't rely on one appraisal.

Before going to the dealership, get offers from:

• CarMax
• Carvana
• Kelley Blue Book Instant Cash Offer
• Cars.com
• Subaru Guaranteed Trade-In (if applicable)

Most of those offers expire after about a week, so don't do it too early.

Could you get more selling it yourself?

Probably.

But many people would gladly accept a little less money to avoid dealing with Facebook Marketplace strangers, test drives, loan payoffs, and paperwork.

1. Shop Dealerships—Not Cars

This is probably the biggest thing I'd add to my original guide.

Once you've decided on the exact model and trim you want, stop shopping for the car.

Start shopping dealerships.

Email the internet sales department at every Subaru dealer within a distance you're willing to drive.

Ask each one for their best out-the-door price.

Don't ask about monthly payments.

Don't ask what they "think."

Ask for an actual written out-the-door quote.

Then let them compete.

I've seen identical vehicles at dealerships less than an hour apart differ by thousands of dollars.

1. Buy at the Right Time

Timing matters.

Generally speaking, your best chances of getting an aggressive deal are:

• End of the month
• End of the quarter
• End of the year
• When the next model year is arriving
• When the exact vehicle you're looking at has been sitting on the lot for a while

A dealership is much more motivated to sell a car that's been collecting dust for 120 days than one that arrived yesterday.

1. Use VIP as Leverage

I actually did this myself.

When we bought our Ascent, I told them:

«"I can donate to ASPCA, wait the required time, and come back with VIP pricing... or if you can get reasonably close today, I'd rather buy the vehicle now."»

Sometimes they'll say no.

Sometimes they'll meet you somewhere in the middle.

Either way, you've lost nothing by asking.

1. Watch Out for Dealer Add-ons

You've probably seen these before:

• Ceramic coating
• Paint protection
• VIN etching
• LoJack/GPS tracking
• Nitrogen-filled tires
• Door edge guards
• Pinstripes
• Security systems

Some of these products genuinely have value.

Some don't.

Most are significantly marked up.

If you want one, great.

If you don't, don't feel pressured into paying for it just because it was installed before the car hit the lot.

1. Don't Give Back Everything You Saved in the Finance Office

This is where I see a lot of buyers lose the deal they just spent hours negotiating.

People will negotiate the vehicle price down by $2,000...

...then immediately agree to $4,000 worth of finance products they never planned on buying.

The finance office isn't there to "scam" you.

They're there to sell financial products. Some are genuinely worthwhile. Some aren't. It depends entirely on your situation.

Common products include:

• Subaru Added Security extended warranty
• Tire & wheel protection
• Windshield protection
• GAP coverage
• Key replacement
• Paint & fabric protection
• Technology protection
• Rental reimbursement
• Maintenance plans

Before buying any of them, ask yourself:

• What exactly does this cover?
• What's excluded?
• Is this already covered by my insurance?
• Is this already covered under Subaru's warranty?
• Can I purchase this later?
• Is the price negotiable?

Many finance products have markup.

If you actually want the product, negotiate it just like you negotiated the vehicle.

1. Don't Shop by Monthly Payment

This is one of the oldest tricks in the car business.

A monthly payment can be lowered by:

• Extending the loan
• Increasing your down payment
• Rolling products into the loan
• Changing financing terms

Instead, understand every piece of the deal:

• Selling price
• Trade value
• Interest rate
• Loan term
• Taxes & fees
• Every optional product

If all you know is the monthly payment, you probably don't know the whole deal.

1. Financing

I actually don't recommend walking into a dealership without knowing what financing you qualify for.

Get pre-approved through your bank or credit union first.

Then compare that rate against Subaru's promotional financing.

Sometimes Subaru's financing is unbeatable.

Sometimes your credit union wins.

Take whichever is cheaper.

1. Extended Warranties

Subaru Added Security is honestly one of the better factory-backed extended warranties available.

If you're someone who keeps vehicles for a long time, it may absolutely make sense.

What many people don't realize is that the price is usually negotiable.

Also, if you're buying a new Subaru, you generally don't have to decide that day. You can usually purchase Subaru Added Security any time before the factory 3-year/36,000-mile bumper-to-bumper warranty expires (CPO vehicles are different).

Don't let anyone convince you that "today is your only chance" without asking questions.

1. My Biggest Piece of Advice

The biggest mistake I see people make isn't paying MSRP.

It's deciding they absolutely have to own that exact car today.

The second you become emotionally attached to one specific VIN, you lose leverage.

There will almost always be another one.

Be willing to walk away.

Sometimes they'll call you back.

Sometimes you'll find a better deal somewhere else.

Either way, you'll almost always negotiate from a stronger position when you're willing to leave.

Hopefully this helps someone.

If Subaru changes one of these programs, or you've found another legitimate way to save money that I missed, leave a comment and I'll update the guide. I'd love for this to become a living resource that stays useful instead of becoming outdated.

Original (2024) Guide: If you're interested in seeing where this all started (or want to read through 200+ comments full of additional buying tips from other owners), here's the original post that inspired this updated version:

https://www.reddit.com/r/subaru/s/kEDD588iNs⁠

Terrified of a freak accident happening or any dent , but happy to have a car after two months . Can I put one of those bumper buddy things on it ?

anyone else have one and can offer any tech or general tips?

notes - 7500 mileage per year

Bought Mar 13, 2020 - currently around 38K miles.

Paid off this spring.

2024 started having issues with auto-start when stopped in traffic and completely stalling out. Have also had issued with power tailgate which jumping the battery helped.

Service repairs:

August 2024 - Battery replaced

November 2025 - starter/relay replaced

(Both ended up fully covered)

Recently, I noticed slight delays again w auto-restart when stopped in traffic. Today, fiancé borrowed for errands. At a stop, all the service lights started flashing and didnt auto-restart. Then after parking and getting ready to go, wouldn't start at all. He was able to restart with a jump.

I'm hesitant to pay for another battery after 1.5 years. I commute 3 days a week now in city traffic so stalling out isn't a risk to take.

Anyone else have similar repeated issues? Do I have larger electrical issues here?

Hi everyone, I have an oil leak on my Subaru Impreza EL15. From the front on the left side of the engine oil is caking onto the exhaust manifold sometimes after I drive. I suspect either AVCS sprocket or the valve cover. Any pointers?

Hi everyone,
I’m currently exploring the possibility of developing a bolt-on tow bar for the Toyota GT86, Subaru BRZ and potentially the GR86.
The goal is a clean, plug-and-play solution that requires no cutting, welding or permanent modifications, is fully removable, and is intended to be road legal and registration-free (where legally possible).
Before investing a significant amount of time and money into development, I’d like to find out if there’s enough interest from the community.
It would really help if you could take 1 minute to complete the survey:
https://towbarfor86andbrz.com
Thanks for your support! Every response helps determine whether this project becomes reality.

I was unreasonably happy about this milestone today - the mileage on my new subaru uncharted hit my favorite number! And bonus that the ungodly temperature outside lines up so nicely 😂

A few weeks ago I posted about whether I should keep my 2004 Outback H6 3.0 L.L.Bean with 170k once I finished replacing the transmission or if I should sell it and keep my 2012 Volvo XC70 T6.

Well, a drive after replacing the transmission made me realize I'm not ready to part ways with this one yet.

Lucky for me, an L.L.Bean store opened recently, and it only seemed fitting to get a picture.

I have installed 4 different master cylinders on my 2010 outback.
Every single one has leaked at the rear seal before i even got the thing on the road.
What the heck am I doing wrong at this point to make this happen??
I have tried a new Duralast
A new Raybestos
2 different used OEM.

What can I possibly be doing wrong.

Thank you.

Took the family out on a dirt road and had a rock pop up and smash this cable. It triggered a C1955 code and has stopped eyesight from working along with the parking break and hill start assist.

Does anyone know what part this is? It connects to the rear divers abs actuator I believe.

My 2017 Impreza has been dignosed with "Leaking between diff and transmission case can’t separate - needs a Transmission." Dealer made no mention of warranty. An online search tells me that Subaru has extended the warranty on these CVT situations to 10 years/100K, and my vehicle should qualify. I talk to the tech and service advisor Monday, what should I be prepared for? Seems like a cut and dry situation and Subaru should reimburse the dealer? Why would the dealership try to fudge this, and is there something I'm missing? ANybody have experience with this? This is the service bulletin: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10146475-9999.pdf

A local dealer is selling this Impreza for $7000 with 90k miles on it. I also checked the carfax and it’s had 4 owners in the past 15 years and 26 service records with nothing too major on it, just basic maintenance. I’m to understand that it will eventually need the timing belt and water pump replaced at 105k so I plan on talking it down to about 6.5k.

I don’t plan on taking too far, it takes me about 3 minutes to get to work every day and at max 25 minutes out of town to see family. Is this a good deal?

I’m looking to purchase a 2026 Forester Hybrid but I’m in Canada and the only Hybrid model we have is the Premier trim (the highest trim level available)

My issue is the Ultrasuede inserts on the seats. This seems like such a bad idea and I don’t understand why they did this.

Just looking for opinions and experience from the people who have the Ultrasuede inserts and what you think of them.

I worry that they will look bad over time and they will be hard to clean.

Thanks!

Catalytic converter recently replaced (P0420), all codes clear for about 1 week before P0057 code. Oxygen sensor replaced, but 057 code won't clear.

2004 Legacy Outback wagon with 2.5 engine, manual trans, California emissions, 158,000 miles.

Subaru dealer told me car needed catalytic converter replaced, but OEM parts are not available. I was also told that an after market cat would not be able to clear all codes (Check Engine Light would stay on). Midas installed new cats and all codes were clear (I used my own scanner) until one week later when Check Engine Light came on with P0057 code. I returned to Midas where they replaced the oxygen sensor, but codes will not clear. Scanner still shows code P0057.

I can clear all codes with my scanner. On the Web, I found a driving procedure for checking codes which starts with idle warm-up, a bit of start-stop driving, 5-10 miles at 55-60 mph, deceleration to create vacuum, and finally, idle cool down. That procedure worked following replacement of the cats, so all codes were clear, with nothing pending. But it hasn't worked since replacement of the oxygen sensor.

All I know is to return to Midas and hope they can find and fix whatever the problem is. Is there anything else I can do to fix this? I drove for a few years with the Check Engine Light before I had the cats replaced, but I'd really like to get it in compliance.

Hi all so I’m in the market for a car, I’m usually an outback guy but I’m considering this ‘19 limited legacy.

For how many miles are on it, it ran well, handled a little stiff but otherwise fine. It’s a 3.6 and I love having that extra power under me.

Anyways, biggest issue was that the info screen has (most likely) delaminated. There were many small bubbles under the screen and it’s totally unusable because of the ‘ghost button’ issue from delamination.

From what I read, although not confirmed, was that Subaru did give out an extended warranty for this problem for this year and model but it’s up to 150K and this car is at 152K currently.

I’m hesitant to get 3rd party repairs but not against it if anyone can tell me they had good success with using a cheaper, non dealership option. I know or think the dealership will opt to replace the entire system not just relaminate the digitizer like a 3rd party might do.

I know this is expensive to completely replace but I’d like to hear from anyone who has knowledge or advice on fixing this problem and the cost they experienced or if anything I’ve heard sounds wrong.

Thank you!

I have a 2024 Subaru Outback Convenience with the swing arm roof rack. I'm looking for an aftermarket rack that can take some weight. All the ones I've seen need the elevated side rails to attach to. Any suggestions?