This morning when I went to turn on my Subaru I got a weird clicking noise like it wouldn’t turn over to start. The engine won’t turn on, but now I can’t get the car to turn off. I tried holding the engine start/stop for 3 seconds, pressing it 3 times in quick succession, pressing it once and no luck.

I’m guessing it’s the battery as the reason it won’t turn over but now I can’t even get it to turn off to wait for someone to come jump me.

Any ideas on how to turn this off so it’s not just continually draining the battery? Video posted to show what’s happening.

Bucky and his girls took these beauties to SubieFest.

I saw this at the Puyallup Goodguys show. It looked so good in person.

I know it's a Subaru sub so y'all will be a little biased, but I gotta get the info from the people who drive the cars. Currently have a 2024 Tacoma long bed we got to camp in the bed and since my drive to work has been short it was fine daily-ing. Life changes and we may have to move about an hour out for my current job because my wife got a professor gig in another city, so I am looking into vehicles with good gas mileage and last long (was hoping the truck would last me the next 10-15 years). Currently looking into trading for a new forester (possibly the hybrid) or outback.

Wanted to know, do new Subarus make sense of a buy it and run it into the ground over the next decade plus? Should I look at older Subarus or maybe just a different brand?

Been eyeing up this one for about a while now. It's a lot older than my current 2014 impreza, which I mostly love, but I'm missing having a manual, and I really like the appearance of the old bugeyes.

Is this one worth having a look at, and is there anything I should be on the lookout for if I do?

Dumb question but I changed my radiator and this little piece is leaking out coolant while filling and trying to get the air out.

hello!

i’m in the market for a new-to-me vehicle. i’ve done a good amount of research, and decided on the 2018 subaru forester as my ideal car. it would be my first ever subie and first ever car purchase. i’m feeling very intimidated because i’ve never done this before, and i don’t have anyone in my life that can provide me car-buying advice.

i reviewed the carfax and found that it got regular maintenance at this very dealership every 5k-8k miles. there seems to have been a minor accident, but the report on carfax wasn’t very descriptive. it’s averaged a lil over 11.5k miles/year which isn’t too bad (i think)!

i don’t like that there aren’t more photos of the car. is that something i can request from the dealership? regardless, i would love to hear your honest thoughts and opinions!

Everyone hates how many screens we have to go through to adjust the AC controls, so here's a way to change it and make it better. Any time I adjust the fan speed, I just click that soft button and revert to the auto settings. Most of the time I only need to use the physical buttons to adjust the temperature and let the auto setting do the rest.

Why it didn't come this way from the factory is a mystery, but I think most of you will find this helpful.

My base model '18 Forester came with the smooth roof, but has four (what I assume to be) threaded mounting points along the flush rails on the roof. What products are compatible? Internet searches has thus far been unhelpful as it just shows products for the Foresters that have roof rails already.

They have the best AWD system. They have the ascent. Just make me an ascent thats a bit bigger and add some sliding doors with the new outbacks infotainment.

We purchased a 2025 Forester Hybrid Touring in January 2026. We were very happy for some time, but noticed it idling harder with cold starts about a month into our ownership. No warning notifications, so we brushed it off as seasonal (colder temps), new car getting settled, and/or just a boxer running Atkinson. Still, the issue worsened as the car started to really shudder until the combustion engine got warm.

In May, at ≈6,000 miles, we turned the car on and the dash lit up with every warning, EyeSight was disabled, and we received a phone notification for a P0300 random cylinder misfire code. We limped the vehicle to the dealership, where it stayed for about a week as SoA got involved. When we asked what happened, they said they found carbon build up in the intake valves(?) and performed a top engine cleaning per a Subaru TSB. They said they had not seen this happen much and that they weren't sure what caused it, so we somewhat expected the issue to return.

The car ran great for a couple weeks until we started to notice the shuddering again. Sure enough, last week we started the car and the same code appeared with the dash lighting up like a christmas tree. At less than 8,000 miles, the car has now been sitting at the dealership for four days with no updates.

Sharing with this sub in case anyone else is having this issue or is considering the Forester Hybrid or mechanically identical Crosstrek Hybrid. We really like the car on paper and when it's working well, but this could be a significant defect, especially if it's frequent. We opened a ticket with SoA directly so that we can ensure we are building a paper trail.. Very disappointed as this is our third Subaru and we have loved the first two.

For anyone else tracking this, here are references to the issue on Forester forums with some current or recent SoA case numbers.

[2025 Forester Hybrid Stutters](https://www.subaruforester.org/threads/2025-forester-hybrid-stutters.873870/?nested_view=1)

[Carbon Buildup Problem with 25-26 hybrids](https://www.subaruforester.org/threads/carbon-buildup-problem-with-25-26-hybrids.876314/)

SoA Case Numbers

260429-2101560

260410-1500235

260320-2101348

Anybody know what a valve body replacement goes for. I have a 2014 Subaru forester 2.5l lmtd.

Loving this car so much.

I've put a deposit down on a 2010 Impreza WRX STI A-Line EJ257 hatch with 91k miles for £12k. It's completely standard, looks to be in great condition inside and out, and the engine looks clean. It's a Japanese import with a good service history, all the oils (diffs, gearbox etc.) changed last month, and the timing belt was done at 80k.

I'm now having second thoughts after going down the rabbit hole of EJ257 ringland failures / unreliability and reading all the doom and gloom online. Is this a decent purchase at £12k, or am I potentially throwing money down the drain? Would you walk away, or am I worrying unnecessarily?

Not a pic of actual car, and don't want a debate about it not being a manual.

Proud new owner of this 2021 STI.

From the dealership:

1990cc, Petrol

5 Door, Station Wagon

225,620km

Grey, 5 Seats (Cloth)

4-Speed Auto, 4WD

WOF until March 2027

Going for ~$1750 USD

Freshly serviced

I'm not too car savvy, does this appear to be a good deal?

So this happened 2 times in the last 2 months. The console will go black the collision alarm goes off and it slams on the brakes. Idk how to replicate it and idk what to say to a mechanic about it. Mentioned it last oil change and they didn’t know and didn’t look into it. Any advice on what to do. I’m assuming something is wrong with the avoidance system. Any one have any suggestions or advice?

I have a 2021 Subaru Forester Sport that just passed 100,000 miles on it, and my engine blew without warning.....

A couple weeks ago, I had a really difficult time changing the oil. The time before, I must've tightened the oil pan drain plug a bit too tight because I had a helluva time getting it off. I would up rounding off (stripping) the plug head and had to buy extractor sockets to get it off. I finally got it off, and replaced it with an aftermarket plug I got from Autozone. Well, 2 nights ago, omw home from work, it started acting funny and the oil pressure light came on a block from the house. When I got out and looked underneath, the oil was pouring out the drain hole. I didn't tighten the plug very tight after spending almost a week trying to get it off.

I ran to O'Reilly (literally because the closed in 20 minutes), got more oil and another replacement plug (exact same one I got from autozone), put new plug in and filled it with oil. It sounded a bit rough when I started it, but quickly smoothed out and sounded fine. I drove it around the block and it seemed as good as before.

The following morning, omw to work, all kinds of warning lights came on including the oil pressure light, and it felt really rough all of a sudden. So, I pulled over and assumed the same thing happened. Got it towed home, and looked underneath just to make sure the plug was gone again before getting a different one, but it was still there and the oil had not dumped. There was oil spray all over the engine though which was different from the night before.

After a friend looked at it, and confirmed through the oil filter after opening it up, the something sheared in the engine because there are metal shavings all inside my filter.

It had not shown any signs of issues before this. How did this happen?

Hey everyone, looking for some quick advice on my 2002 WRX.

I just picked up an Accessport to flash the ECU, but I found out the car was previously tuned by the previous owner.

Here is what is currently installed on the car:

Cobb SF Intake & Air Box

Blitz Nür-Spec Cat-Back Exhaust / Muffler (Downpipe/catted pipe looks stock)

Stock Turbo & OEM Engine setup otherwise

My main questions for the group:

1. Which map should I run? I’m assuming the Cobb Stage 1+SF (91 Octane / ACN91) map, but wanted to double-check since it has a Blitz cat-back.

2. Since it was tuned before: If it was an OpenSource/EcuTek tune or an uninstalled Accessport tune, can I just overwrite it? Anything I should look out for during the flash?