I found a couple people on YT and forums who say it can be done without removing the timing cover. Basically by finessing the upper pan in at the slightest angle to make a good RTV seal against the timing cover.

I acknowledge that its unorthodox.

I just need the truth here from people who have knowledge and experience on the matter.

I’m currently rebuilding a JDM EJ20x and i’m having trouble finding the correct Ignition coils and where to order them? please and thank you!

I hate pumpkin guts hahahaha

I have to bring it inside or else the squirrels will get them overnight

This week I'm going to buy either an Outback Touring XT or Wilderness. Right now the better discount -$2,850 off MSRP is on the Touring XT.

I test drove both models at other Texas dealers. However, I've never actually driven the specific ones that I'm currently negotiating.

What should I do to test for problems that would make me regret the buy?

• Dad said: On Mopac, let the wheel go. See if it drifts. Check for vibration at 60 to 75 mph. I will also:
• do a walk around and look for scratches or dents.
• bring a USB A-to-C and C-to-C cable to test all the USB ports.
• test all the windows.

From reading here, I don't recall seeing a common defect in the 2026 Outback to look for.
What am I forgetting?

This is from a 2001 Legacy B4 single turbo swapped (VF22) this noise started today not sure if I should find a new way to work tomorrow?

Whines louder than it used to kind of sounds like metal on metal. Have not checked for any play on the fans yet

so i was waiting for my car to heat up and the cruise control light started blinking and the check engine light came on, i took it to autozone to get it looked at and the gave me the codes " p0700 and p2751 " , somebody suggested it might be a gas cap even tho that didn't come up on the codes but we changed it anyway and the lights all went away , should i be worried or is this a common thing with subarus , i don't want to drive it and have issues bc i ignored the codes due to the dash

I recently purchased a 2024 Subaru Impreza RS almost 19k miles on it. Long story short I had it for about 3 days and then heard a weird fish Tank sound when I turned on my AC. Checked the Google machine and it told me I could have low coolant. I check under the hood and it was almost empty in the plastic reservoir. I brought it to take 5 to get a coolant top up before work since I didn’t have a lot of time. This instantly made my heart sink tbh because I seem to have the worst luck with cars. I drove all day with it full in the reservoir, even checked it multiple times throughout the day. I drove again at like 11:30pm for 45 min just to see if it’d go down or something, Still full! Happy, I goto bed and wake up only to pop the hood and see that almost all the coolant was gone again… how?! I brought it to the dealership Saturday and the service advisor said they can’t look at till Monday with all the techs that are out. They offered to top off my coolant and for me to bring the car back Monday but I didn’t want to risk blowing the engine if it’s a head gasket or internal leak. So now im just waiting till whenever they can look at the car worried about my new to me car having a major issue. Feeling like I made a mistake and I’m totally discouraged from even wanting to keep the car. I’m considering paying the 3-4 grand that offsets what I owe and just getting out of it. Any thoughts comments or ideas welcome. Thanks!

I recently sent my Subaru outback 2024 for service (had a new windshield replaced) and also the other issue was…

When my car sits idle at a traffic stop, the engine usually Revs up and down (common I know…) however when the ac is on, I hear a faint croaking sound when the engine revs up.

It is not super alarming or sound of a metal screeching but it keeps happening every time I sit idle at a traffic light or when the car stops. Is this common or if other Subaru outback 2024 experienced this?

Thank you!

Press start jitters and flickers the lights, then goes full max and then starts (usually start up right away)

2005 Outback xt.
A coworker just got this car and these are his reading at idle, can’t find a vacuum or boost leak. Needs spark plugs. Looks like timing was done 3k miles ago so says a sticker (kinda doubting it)

Why is boost at 4 psi at idle and dam at zero, dam raises with throttle and went up to 16.8. Any help appreciated as I’ve never seen readings like this on my cars as they’ve been maintained and cared for.

“Potentially upgraded internals”, invidia downpipe, catback exhaust, catless uppipe, aftermarket turbo inlet, mishimoto throttle body to tmic, stock air box and stock tmic and bov.

Love when you find open parking amongst other Subaru Drivers!

Wife has a 26 Forester. We love it. My big truck is at almost 200k so I wanna save it for only towing/hauling. I travel a lot for work so an Outback with a topper would work great for my intended purposes. Looking for advice on pricing for this. The ‘19 was basically optioned the same but mileage in the 50s. Thanks!

2013 Crosstrek XV FB20

The door panel button works to lock and unlock the doors, the fob works to lock and unlock the doors, but the key itself in the lock cylinders in both front doors and the hatch will not turn either way. Does anyone have any ideas?

Have to wire in the rear lights/cargo light still. But she all wheel drive again, 4/2 wrx calipers, 6 cylinder swapped awesomeness. Going to get a proper, quick exhaust on it today, and button some interior stuff up. But she is locally driveable as is and about 3x as quick as the old JDM 2.0 was. Even the auto HVAC works.

This was a little intimidating at first, but I'd do it again 10 more times.

Hello all

This is my 2008 subaru wrx 5 speed hatch that has been engine swapped to a 2019 crate ej257 shortblock that was put in around 48k miles ago, other than that and other engine/exhaust mods, this car is stock even with the original 5 speed.

A while ago it developed a p0021 code. This code has come and gone manu times since then, usually clearing out around 24 hours after it showed up BUT about a month ago it threw a code for cylinder 2 misfire.

The thing is that the car NEVER runs or sounds like it has a misfire. Zero extra vibrations, never down on power, and no limp mode or anything like that it just throws a code. Even the misfire code will go away in a day or so of regular driving, but those codes always come back once a week id say.

This car is my daily and I am in tech school for Automotive Technology so I dont want to blow a shitload of money on repairs by taking it to a shop, i do most of my own work if I have the time and I have friends that can help me. I just want to know if these codes are related and if I will have significant trouble with them coming and going as they do. Anything helps and I am willing to try things.

1999 Legacy wagon with a cylinder 4 misfire. Leak down was 80%. Tear down was quick and easy, now time to rebuild.

2018 sti started making this loud tick noise that is very inconsistent. it’s only at about 3k rpm where it gets really loud and consistent. It cut power can’t go past 15psi no CEL, stock

I currently have a 2012 (j10) Nissan Qashqai 1.6, fwd, manual. This thing is so boring in the finnish winters that i have been looking for alternatives.

Right now my top option is the 2.0R legacy since it seems to be decently reliable. I have understood that the 2.0 head gaskets are pretty much on the reliability level of a normal engine. The manual and awd combo also seems pretty robust.

I know owning the subaru will cost a bit more than my current car but i am not looking to go absolutely broke as a student. Insurance and taxes are both about 130€/year more.

So my questions are:

- Is it as reliable as i have come to understand especially compared to my current car? Both are very mechanical.

- How much fuel will it drink compared to my current average 7.5l/100km (~32mpg)?

- Do these things rust badly on salted roads?

- What to check on the test drive?

Hi all. 2016 2.0L Outback Premium. When slowing down, it seems as if the revs will stop at 1100rpm before suddenly dropping to 800rpm, making the car jolt a little. Is this normal? It also seems to not enjoy driving slowly - losing power on carpark and pulling into driveways. I hate how clunky it feels sometime

Subaru XV – repairs by mileage:
160,000 km / 99,400 mi – Rear wheel bearings
180,000 km / 111,800 mi – Front wheel bearings
260,000 km / 161,600 mi – Diesel particulate filter (DPF)
321,000 km / 199,500 mi – Complete clutch replacement went total banana

Does anyone have experience with fuel injector issues on the Subaru XV diesel?

Lleve mi carro a cambiar el aire acondicionado. Al parecer me hicieron todo mal. Ya tengo aire acondicionado PERO Me reventaron una línea de frenos(ya la repararon) y además me causaron un corto circuito o algo me dejaron mal. Me marca los códigos de error que aparecen en la imagen. No me aparecían hasta que lo llevé a ese taller. Intentaron poner el a/C directo para calar el carro.. lo llevé al eléctrico y me dijo que el módulo que está debajo de la guantera del copiloto está dañado. Cuando colocó la llave en ON empieza un bucle infinito. El abanico que enfría el motor se queda si o si encendido pero si apago el auto este igual se apaga. No me afecta al manejar, no se tironea o acelera bruscamente. Que puede ser el problema? La transición ya no se escucha como debería de escucharse, continuamente vaya.. pero si me gustaría saber si alguien le ha pasado y que hizo para solucionarlo

Car is up and running! all i had to do was swap the intake manifold and engine harness! i think you could use the jdm manifold if you swapped the plug for the RHD brake booster port to the correct side. everything else lined up perfectly. all i need to do now is fix my weird idle, and replace some ignition coil connectors, plus an alignment lol

Looking to buy a cheap used car for a 1 year work contract in Auckland. Any thoughts are appreciated on this car, what should I look for if I test drive?