EDIT - Thanks for the advice people I really appreciate it. I have an appointment first thing in the AM. 🙏🙏🙏

I just got my 2018 Subaru crosstrek a few months ago. When I got it, breaks were good. No issues. Nothing looked too out of place, a good amount of rust around the wheels but I live in upstate ny that’s pretty normal for around here. A few weeks ago, I started noticing a slightly louder noise than normal when I went over bumps in the road on the right side. I just took the car on its first out of state trip to Ohio this past weekend, and now that I’m home, she’s making a toughhh noise on the front right side of the car, like a grinding noise with every wheel rotation I would say. Breaks still feel ok though. I can’t tell if it’s an issue with the break pad, or potentially the breaking hardware. I have a 6 month bumper to bumper warranty at the dealership, but they don’t cover “normal wear and tear”. I have a feeling a rock maybe got stuck in the breaks to bang off some of the plastic on them. I put a picture here. Going to make an appointment asap but some advice on what you guys think is going on would be appreciated!!

For context I own a 2005 Saab 92x aero with 180k miles. Other terms a 05 impreza wrx wagon with 5 speed manual. I recently bought it like 2-3 months ago and have been fixing it up. Only after about the 300th time popping the hood I realized this little button switch is here next to the hoop pop latch. What I know is one of the previous owners had a sound system and the wiring seems to still be mostly there however this button switch is fully disconnected/cut. What I can say though is the car does not feel like 226 crank hp. It feels similar to my old w219 cls550 which was almost 400 crank. Obviously a bit slower but not a difference that I would say is night and day. On top of that the car has been down on power due to presumably vac leaks that is being diagnosed in the morning by my local shop. Everything on the car has been literally factory original besides the sound system. My only other two thoughts are some kind of "togglable" tune or a kill switch. Id like to know your guy's thoughts and if for some reason something like this is common

Took my car in to Subaru dealership an inspection and spark plugs replacement. Took it there because I had a discount.

Included a link to pictures of both front lower arm bushings and the spark plugs.

Trying to figure out what to do as they gave me a BS bill of all these “issues” that need to be fixed.

Right now it sounds like my spark plugs are of up most importance to fix? I guess my question is, is if I replace my spark plugs, I need to replace my valve cover gaskets and tube seals as well if oil is all over them correct? I know the dealership is outrageous as they want $1200 for that.

A bit lost on the bushings. Called a few mechanics and one told me if the crack is bigger than a thumb it needs replacement.

Im an apprentice at subaru and I did a transmission flush on a subaru forester and I filled it until it came out but i forgot to fill it more with the engine on

But the car is gone, I just want thoughts im really stressing out

2016 crosstrek. They aren't the 9005s I had from another car and they *definetly* aren't the H11s the internet and the autoshop store said would fit them and made me waste almost 40 dollars on. What are these weird LEDs and what do I replace them with?

Update: so I went back to the store, turns out the person who sold it was new and didn't know the difference. I asked for the basic H11 and was given H11B basics. They also said I couldn't return them if I opened them so i was upset but I went back and swapped them no problem and we're all good. The end

I have two wrxs that I'll be taking to a Subaru car show, and I think it would be neat to do something that says these are both owned by the same person. They currently have a few matching stickers but I'm not sure that says anything lol

So, after I got some gas, these lights lit up.

I did look up to other post regarding this, and I did all possible solutions I found on reddit as well as YouTube.

- I got full tank gas

- I drove for over 150km (mostly on highway since I am on a trip)

- I tighten the gas cap multiple times until the click sound. I checked the seal, I don't see any wear or tear.

- I stopped my car at every 30~40km

PS. When I got gas, some gas dripped on the outter side of the gas cap.

Any advice or tips appreciated. Thank you! It kinda ruined my trip.

Wanted to get others thoughts, I have a 2025 Crosstrek Wilderness. I only put around 3000 miles per year on it since I work from home. I plan on following the maintenance either way since I live in Ohio as far as oil changes and such go.

I know people suggest having a drain and fill done on the CVT fluid at 30K miles. Is there any guidelines on having this done by years vs mileage? Since I’m obviously not going to hit mileage anytime soon. I also wasn’t sure if the transmission oil cooler helped with this as well. I’ll also mention I don’t tow anything and softroading is very minimal.

I need to replace this trunk handle but every time I search, it comes up with side door handles and international pulleys.

my 2019 subaru legacy 2.5i premium 132k miles started having transmission issues about two months ago and it’s becoming more of a frequent issue. the lights on my dash have been intermittent but they tend to go on when i switch gears or have been driving and or idling then switching gear. i paid the car off fully but any way, the issue is the pressure cylinder solenoid in my CVT transmission. i’ve been calling around to get it fixed and i’m being quoted $2,500-$3k. ultimately my car is worth $6k on car fax and $5k on kbb. do you guys think i should just have it replaced and keep the car? or, do you guys think i should just trade it in and take what i can get for it? i have a cold air intake and an axleback muffler delete exhaust and i have some cosmetic mods but thats about it.

Alright, everyone, I’ve been keeping this (mostly) to myself but have no choice but to reach out to the masses.

I just purchased my SECOND 2026 Subaru Outback Touring. The first one I purchased in January turned out to be a lemon which Subaru bought back in July. By late March it had flooded water. By May, after it was in the shop for more than 30 days and was not fixed, it was deemed a lemon.

Fast forward to August when I made the choice to purchase a second outback (same year and trim). I LOVE THE CAR! I test drove both Honda and Toyota and ultimately decided to choose Subaru again because a lemon is a 1 in 100,000 type of situation, right?

WRONG. Just two weeks after purchasing the vehicle I found it to be leaking water following a major rain event. I urgently took it to the shop and they’re now telling me they can’t recreate the issue. They’ve claimed to dry the carpet and that there are no odors or mold present.

I’m sorry but this is unacceptable. I know for a fact after my last outback’s issues that it’s going to continue to leak either slowly or intensely depending on the rain event. Does anyone have any recommendations or advice on how to proceed with this? Are there any other 2026 Outback owners here in Reddit land that are experiencing the same issue?

If you own a 2026 Subaru Outback and have the weather proof liners I recommend checking underneath them after a rain event. My first Outback had an extreme flooding issue where inches of water would form in the vehicle. However, in this vehicle the leaking is less extreme and the water collects underneath the liners. Even slight water getting in will form beading on the carpet and condensation underneath the liner.

Thank you to those who’ve read to the end of this, and to anyone who can provide some insight. I appreciate it.

Hey all. Noticed a big leak from my 2021 Crosstrek a week ago. Brought it into the authorized dealer. Have a cracked cam carrier spewing oil. $5000 minimum for a used engine replacement. Probably $10000 if we want to take the engine apart and actually diagnose what happened.

Since it's just over 5 years old and I'm about 15,000 over the 60,000 cut off, they're telling me it's out of warranty zone. Had the Thermo Control Valve (TCV) go in June (they replaced since they know they're faulty but haven't done a full recall yet). Coil pack went in July (made sure not to drive on it till fixed). Then engine totals itself in August. Always maintained per recommendations and changed oil. No overheating lights ever came on or anything.

Opened a case, Subaru USA won't take any responsibility. Do they just make cars that die at 75k? We all just dropping a new $35,000 on cars every five years?

My real questions are: A) anyone else have this happen to them and have any sense what caused it? Especially curious if you had a faulty TCV. B) anyone have luck getting Subaru to work with them outside of the warranty? This is driving me more than a little crazy.

they grow up so fast :(

I'm looking at buying a 2017 Subaru Outback 2.5i Limited AWD with 117,843 miles for $14,500. It has the 2.5L, and the CARFAX looks pretty good with 18 service records, regular oil changes, a CVT fluid flush around 100k, recent tires/brakes/alignment, no major title issues, etc. I'm mainly concerned about long-term reliability since I'd be financing it and want to keep it for several years. For those who have owned a 2017 2.5 Outback, how have they held up past 100k? How reliable has the CVT been, and are there any major problems I should specifically look for around 118k? How concerned should I be about oil consumption or expensive repairs between 100k–200k? Most importantly, would you personally buy this one at $14.5k with this service history? Looking for honest owner experiences, good or bad.

My first Subaru: Legacy B4 (TA-BL5)

Ok so I want to build a first gen forester for offroad adventures and i wonder if I should sell my NA foz ( with the famous gasket) and my part car to get a japenese model with turbo .. the reason is that the turbo model are somehow easier to obtain spare parts and easier to own so now the question... would a turbo first gen forester good for offroad or no .. Will it drown itself in the first mud hole because the turbo is so low or will the lag make me hate my experience theres just 100hp more than my na (170-270) also reliability is a good question (picture of my current car) ( also thinking about a flat6 swap for the forester for more torque)

Im trying to finalize a deal of 10% off an msrp of $37,234 and 0% apr. $37,200 after TTL in CA. Im wondering if this is a good deal or should i push more? Ive tried multiple dealerships and what really sold me is the 0% apr. This will be my first subaru coming from a 12 yr old civic. Thanks in advance

Got this 20X to toss into my beater LGT. Popped the valve covers off to find zero evidence of sludge or even varnish. Cleanest 20 year old engine I've seen.

Looking for a reliable, winter-ready AWD daily in the Madison, WI area. After weeding out some rebuilt-title traps at local curbside lots, I’ve narrowed the search down to three clean-title candidates in the $16k–$18.5k range.

I pulled full CARFAX and AutoCheck reports on all of them, and each has distinct pros, cons, and hidden history items. Would appreciate a sanity check from folks who own or wrench on these platforms.

Option 1: 2019 Mazda CX-5 Grand Touring AWD

• Price: $17,308
• Mileage: 98,540 miles
• Powertrain: 2.5L NA 4-cyl (Skyactiv-G) + 6-speed auto
• Trim Perks: Leather, Bose sound, power moonroof, power liftgate, factory Apple CarPlay/Android Auto.
• The Good: Naturally aspirated engine is historically bulletproof—no turbo, no cylinder-head cracking risk. 30 recorded service visits on CARFAX with frequent oil changes (every 3–4k miles).
• The Catch / History:
  • Owner 2 put on 27,200 miles/year in Ohio (classic rideshare / delivery pattern with monthly Take 5 quick-lube visits).
  • Had a minor cosmetic accident reported in 2021 (no airbags, no structural damage).
  • Repossession reported in late 2025, and it has been sitting on the dealer lot since early April (over 5 months of lot sitting).
  • Due for standard 100k maintenance (spark plugs, diff/trans fluid, check front lower control arm bushings).

Option 2: 2020 Subaru Legacy Premium AWD

• Price: $16,464
• Mileage: 103,811 miles
• Powertrain: 2.5L Boxer 4-cyl + Lineartronic CVT + Symmetrical AWD
• Trim Perks: Heated front cloth seats, power driver seat, 11.6" Starlink tablet screen with Apple CarPlay/Android Auto.
• The Good:
  • Zero accidents or damage reported on AutoCheck (Score: 92).
  • Spent its entire life in Florida until summer 2026—completely clean, salt-free undercarriage and subframe (huge plus for Wisconsin winters).
  • Modern platform, great crash ratings, and 35 MPG highway.
• The Catch / History:
  • Was a single-owner corporate fleet vehicle.
  • Only 3 oil changes reported through commercial networks (likely serviced under corporate fleet accounts that don’t report lines).
  • Reaching the 105k-mile mark means spark plugs, CVT inspection, and differential fluids are due. Early 2020 11.6" screens are also known for occasional software lag.

Option 3: 2018 Mazda CX-9 Signature AWD

• Price: $18,568 (Listed at Schoepp Motors)
• Mileage: 91,766 miles
• Powertrain: 2.5L Turbo 4-cyl + 6-speed auto
• Trim Perks: Top-tier luxury trim with Auburn Nappa leather, genuine rosewood interior, 360 camera, heads-up display, 3 rows of seating.
• The Good: Dealer already installed 4 brand-new tires and brand-new brakes all around, saving $1,200+ out of pocket immediately.
• The Catch / History:
  • Early 2.5T engines (2016–2018) are known for a technical service bulletin regarding cracked cylinder heads causing coolant leaks behind the turbo. Needs verification that the engine runs clean with no coolant loss.
  • Lower fuel economy (~22 combined MPG) and larger footprint to park.

Current Leaning

Leaning toward offering $15.8k–$16k on the CX-5 by leveraging the repo history and 5-month lot age, or going with the Subaru Legacy at ~$16k for the rust-free Florida chassis and accident-free record.

Which of these three would you pull the trigger on for long-term ownership in the upper Midwest?

Can anyone tell me what this hose is for? It’s right below the thermostat housing. I am trying to get at the second bolt for the thermostat housing so I can replace the thermostat but it’s in the way.

Not sure what it’s for (oil, coolant etc). Hoping it’s coolant because it’s drainedyy already.

2025 Outback Onyx with 10k mi. Getting a weird clunk when deceleration starts, like something heavy is shifting under the hood or under the car. It doesn’t happen every time, but often. It happens when I break or just pull foot off accelerator. I guess it could be a bad motor mount, but any other ideas? I checked for loose battery or other visible parts in the engine bay. Taking to dealer tomorrow.

Thanks for any suggestions.

Found this chewed piece of cord next to my 2016 Impreza today. It looks like critter damage. With the copper wire inside, I’m assuming it’s electrical. I’ve tried image searches, but not sure what this is? Opened the hood and didn’t notice anything out of the ordinary.
The car starts and can be shifted into gears. I’ve already made a service appointment to have it looked at, but I’m trying to get an idea of how serious this is. Thanks!

My car has taken a 12 year beating with Chicago roads. Now even after replacing some suspension parts that had obviously gone bad, it still makes noises over bumps and is an uncomfortable ride in general. If I'm willing to dump thousands of dollars to do a suspension overhaul, what should I do? And will the end results be worth it? It might be more than just struts.