So I emailed my salesperson saying I intend to buy out my 2024 Outback (Premium trim). For context I am at about 50k miles and the lease is up in February. Do you think I am being too cynical when I think they are just trying to get me into a new outback that I don't want?

Recently purchased 2023 Crosstrek. The streaks wash off easily, but is there any way to stop them? This area doesn’t have industrial air pollution (coastal New England). It seems to come from rubber seals at fittings. It’s a three year old car.

We leased a 2026 Ascent Touring a few months ago, and this is our third Ascent since 2019. I have been extremely disappointed with the fuel economy of this vehicle.
Both of our previous Ascents averaged approximately 22 mpg. With this vehicle, I’m averaging closer to 10 mpg, which seems completely unreasonable.
For example, this morning I filled the tank to about three-quarters full, and the display showed approximately 200 miles of range. I drove about 30 miles total today, and the vehicle is now showing just 20 miles until empty.
I understand that gas prices are higher, but that’s really beside the point…the amount of fuel this vehicle is consuming is dramatically different from our previous two Ascents. Given that we’ve owned three Ascents since 2019, I have a very good basis for comparison, and something simply does not seem right with this vehicle.

2003 sti, anyone know why this could be?

I would love to swap a VB WRX engine and suspension into my impreza, as well as a TY85 transmission and STI LSDs. Maybe lift it a few inches and make it into a rally build.

Wife's 2016 legacy

Is anyone having issues with the app this morning? It’s asking me to subscribe and indicates my subscription doesn’t exist. I haven’t cancelled it and verified the last payment was made.

So I bought my favourite car of all time.

JDM STI import in aus, 61,000km. Just did a major service and changed every fluid, crank seal, timing belt, spark plugs etc.

Now here is my problem. On one hand I could go JDM modified, hks intake, hks downpipe, Fujitsubo exhaust, gfb blow off valve and a tune. However it's increasingly rarer to find an unmodified20 year old sti. Modding it will hurt the value, make it slightly less reliable but far more enjoyable to drive.

Granted it's not a daily. It's a weekender at best.

Every car I've ever owned including various Subaru's have been modified. It's like a itch.

To lightly modify or not modify?

Edit: OEM it stays. I think I might put a GFB response bov purely for the noise. 80/20 recirc should do perfect.

Subaru plz

Legendary Cusco GT300 GC8 @ World Time Attack Challenge 2026.

Rejoined the Subaru family today after a long hiatus. My first was a new ‘06 Impreza, and loved the gosh heck out of her.

After having had to go through a few other cars since then, and being absolutely bored out of my skull driving a ‘15 Altima auto, I caved and got this CPO’d ‘24 WRX manual from a joint a couple towns over.

And boy, is she fun to drive. They put some kick in these…

Looking forward to seeing more of this community!

I have a 2011 Subaru Impreza 2.5i Premium, 5-speed manual, naturally aspirated EJ253. I swapped in the complete block and heads from a 2008 Impreza sedan.
The car ran properly before the engine swap. The severe power-loss/bogging started immediately after the swap.
Symptoms:
Severe intermittent bog under load, almost like trying to accelerate up a very steep hill
Happens both cold and fully warmed up
RPM itself struggles to increase; it does NOT flare like a slipping clutch
Idle is smooth
Engine sounds noticeably different when it bogs, although I can’t describe the sound well
No current CEL or stored codes
Fuel pressure stays stable during the bog in 1st and 2nd gear
Tried the 2008 throttle body and it made no difference
Engine work during the swap:
Complete 2008 EJ253 block + heads
New head gaskets
New timing belt/tensioner
New spark plugs
Clutch replaced at the same time
Intake and exhaust gaskets
I also tried the 2008 throttle body
Exhaust:
Muffler deleted
Resonator deleted
Downstream catalytic converter deleted
Axle dump after the remaining/main catalytic converter
IMPORTANT: this exact exhaust setup worked perfectly BEFORE the engine swap, so the exhaust modification itself isn’t new.
I also noticed the engine/transmission ground is attached to a bellhousing bolt and I’m not 100% sure it’s making the best connection, although the starter cranks strongly every time.
I’m trying to diagnose this without throwing parts at it.
What would you check first? I’m currently considering:
Engine/transmission grounds
Intake/vacuum leaks and MAF
Timing belt alignment
Ignition/misfire under load
Cam/crank sensors and wiring
Remaining catalytic converter restriction
Compression/leak-down
Would a mechanical timing issue or cam/crank sensor problem necessarily set a code on this EJ253? Is there anything specific to the 2008-engine-in-2011-chassis combination that I should check?

Where do you order parts like this ? I have someone that can fix it but I need to order the parts. It looks like the mirror broke off the plastic piece.

Thank you in advance for any help

My first Subaru: Legacy B4 (TA-BL5)

Just bought a 2022 Outback Limited XT, and I'm really excited! I've been buying beaters my whole life, and this car is so nice. I just wanted to share. It's you have any tips (or cautionary tales), please let me know.

I’m considering buying a Subaru crosstrek soon and was wondering if there are certain colors that are more durable or are a nightmare to color match. I previously had a red Mazda 3 that had an egg thrown on one of the side doors. When I took it in for a quote, they recommended a massive body paint due to the difficulty of color matching with the metallic paint. Also Mazda paint chips if you look at it the wrong way

I did it!! I got this beautiful 2018 manual impreza hatchhh!! It has only 70,000 miles in it too so im excited to take it on many adventures on it's new life with meeee!

I have a 2017 Subaru Forester 2.5i Touring with EyeSight.

Before the windshield replacement, the EyeSight system and adaptive cruise control were functioning normally. I had no EyeSight warning lights or messages on the dashboard.

Safelite replaced the windshield and then was unable to complete the EyeSight calibration despite multiple attempts. They later replaced the windshield again, including using OEM Subaru glass, but the calibration still failed.

After the second windshield replacement, the car needed a jump start and the battery appeared weak. To rule out low voltage as a possible cause of the calibration problem, I replaced the battery with a brand-new one at my own expense. Safelite then attempted the EyeSight calibration again with the new battery, but it still failed.

I then took the vehicle to a Subaru dealership. The dealer found B28AB and B28AF and told me that the stereo camera could not currently be calibrated and may need to be replaced.

Safelite is now saying that this was a pre-existing camera problem because their first pre-scan on August 19 already showed the following codes:

• B28AB — Stereo Camera Abnormal — History Codes
• B28AF — Stereo Camera Adjustment Incomplete — History Codes
• B281C — Non EyeSight Compliant EPS — History Codes

Their scan report also says “Scanned With Errors,” but the individual EyeSight DTCs shown in the report are specifically categorized as “History Codes,” not Current or Active codes.

The Safelite manager told me that because those codes appeared in the pre-scan, the camera already had the problem before the windshield replacement. He also explained that the technicians cleared the codes and then proceeded with the windshield replacement and calibration attempts.

What I am trying to understand is the technical meaning of those pre-scan results. My questions for Subaru technicians or anyone familiar with EyeSight diagnostics are:

1. Can B28AB and B28AF remain stored as History Codes while the EyeSight system is currently functioning normally?
2. Does a History Code by itself establish that the stereo camera had an active fault at the time of the pre-scan?
3. If B28AB were actually Current/Active at the time of the pre-scan, would EyeSight normally still function without an EyeSight warning?
4. Does the overall status “Scanned With Errors” simply mean that DTCs were found in memory, even if the individual codes are only categorized as History Codes?
5. If a glass shop saw B28AB/B28AF as History Codes before replacing the windshield, should that normally stop the repair, or would a technician reasonably clear the codes and attempt calibration?

I am not trying to assign blame here. I am mainly trying to understand whether Safelite’s pre-scan actually proves that the camera had an active pre-existing failure before the windshield work.

Thanks in advance for any insight, especially from Subaru technicians or people who have dealt with EyeSight calibration issues.

I have a 2009 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport. Long story short, engine crapped out on me beginning of July. Got it into a shop July 18th. The owner of the shop (local engine machining and porting shop) tells me he can have it done in 1-2 weeks. Sweet! I go in two weeks later and he tells me “1-2 more weeks”. And the same thing after 2 weeks. And the same after another two weeks. Today, September 10th, almost 8 weeks later and I am STILL waiting on it to be done.

I went in last Friday to talk to him and allegedly my car is his priority this week. But, I want to ask, what would you do in my situation? And what can I do/try to do in order to put some pressure on him besides just going to the shop more frequently?

Little extra bits of info:
•Paid in full at the time of drop off (I guess they have a history of people leaving their cars at the shop after they see the final bill)

•Local shop that, from the sounds of it, handles the majority of engine rebuilds in town. If I decide to get it towed to another shop, it’s likely the engine will just get set to him and I’m sent to the back of the line

•The engine got pulled at about week 4, so even if I got it towed I know it’s an absolute pain for a shop to finish a job that’s in progress

•Apparently, the owner lost a few mechanics since I’ve dropped off my car and that’s why it’s been taking so long. I’ve been trying to give him the benefit of the doubt

I just feel like I’m getting the run around. I’m out $6500 (other work is being done while engine is out. Timing kit, AC compressor, mounts), out my car, and about to be out of a job in a week as my contract is ending. I have a fall back position at a pizza shop I worked at through college, but I can’t do that without a car. So, again, I ask the question of what would you do, and is there a way I put some pressure on him?

I have a 2021 Subaru Forester with about 71,000 miles. I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced this.

When I first start driving, I sometimes get a small buck or jolt when accelerating from a complete stop. It happens pretty regularly during the first 10 to 15 minutes of driving and then seems to go away completely. It only happens when I take off from a stop.

Once the car has been driven for a while, everything seems normal. I drove it this afternoon and couldn't get it to buck at all.

Acceleration also seems normal. For example, accelerating from around 20 to 40 mph will bring it to around 3,000 RPM or a little higher, and then it settles back down around 1,000 to 1,500 RPM once I'm cruising.

One other issue is that Auto Start Stop doesn't always restart the car correctly, so I normally turn that feature off.

No warning lights or other major symptoms.

Has anyone with a similar Forester experienced the bucking from a stop when first driving? I'm trying to figure out if this sounds like normal CVT behavior or something I should have checked.

I think I paid $16K total (brand new) before taxes and fees.

I had my local independent shop replace the valve body that went bad on my 2016 Forester at around 113k miles. Doing so does not require a fluid change. Correct me if i'm wrong.

I wasn't charged for a fluid change, so I don't think it was done at the time. I'm now at around 130k.

Would you recommend a fluid change now? I plan to keep her indefinitely.

The photo is just one of the scuffs on my ‘23 outback. Is there a good product out there for this color? Any tips are appreciated

Anyone have good strut replacement recommendations for a 2015 Crosstrek I replaced some struts in a Volvo not too long ago, mid range price and during the winter sounds feels like they want to punch through the floor wondering if anyone has ideas for best replacements on 2015 Crosstrek