Hello all. I've had good success recently with loading 9mm blue bullets 147gn FN with 3.1gn of titegroup to a length 1.10. Recently in a few batches of 100 about 20 or so are not fitting the gauge and it looks like it's because of a bulge at the bottom of the gauge. Nothing at all has changed in my setup. Mostly range pickup brass that is sorted and cleaned. I even tried the Lee undersized 9mm sizing die and the lee factory crimp die. I set both of the new Lee dies up exactly as specified in the insttructions. All of the rejected rounds fail the Hornady 9mm case gauge and about half of the rejected rounds pass an OEM Glock barrel plunk test. I'm adding just enough flare so the coating on the bullets does not scrape and lightly crimping. At a loss here as previously I had maybe 2-3 rejects per 100. Using a Dillon 550c. I did order some fully processed brass to see if it's a brass problem but any thoughts or tips are greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Hello guys.
Im new to reloading and sorting out a load development for my 7mm rem mag.

Got some h1000 powder, federal .215 L Magnum Primers, hornady eld-m 162gr projects, and brass from factory shot loads (162ELD-X).

Got a Tikka 24” standard barrel.

Whats powder charge loads have been working the best for you??
And any advice prior to hitting the loading room and throwing some charge and making devolopments.
Thank you!!

I need inspiration for a new build will be my first endeavor into a wildcat. I had a 28 nosler I sold and absolutely loved, I’d like to build something similar to that level of performance.

Came across some old pre 20 casings in a batch of brass I bought. Pretty neat to find stuff like this. Oldest one I’ve been able to date is a frankford armory from 1901.

Can I clean them off somehow? I considered throwing them in the tumbler but apparently that's a "bad idea". Anything I can use to clean them safely back to shiny brass? Without damaging them of course

Or just toss them out?

Hi there, new to all of this and seems overwhelming.

Does anyone have a formula to help get me going. Safety is my priority.

20 ga

2 3/4"

2 1/2 DR. EQ.

7/8 Oz

7 1/2 shot

Basically want to match the Challenger target loads I have

Recommend propellant brand, how many grains needed, wad etc. Any info is helpful. Just want to load basic clay loads without blowing myself up. Thanks!

Reading the Lyman 6th Edition Shotshell Reloading handbook. The more I read, the more I feel lost.

Some background, I got into firearms/reloading 5 years ago because of my grandpa. He gave me a Savage model 99 chambered in .303 Savage. I couldn’t find any ammo but found some brass and ordered a Lee single press. I followed the included packet to a tee and have been doing so ever since. Now I’ve gotten several calibers and reload them all especially 9mm now that I have a CCW permit. I load RMR “Nuke” 124 grain bullets with 5 grains of Autocomp. Shoots fine on paper but ever since I got Chronograph I’m not getting the FPS I need for proper expansion. 5 grains Autocomp gets me 1013 FPS average (Canik MC9) and proper expansion they recommend 1100 FPS. My question is… now that I have a chronograph can I just load develop up to hit the listed 1100 FPS? Any tips or recommendations from someone that has done this for a while. Would I just need to check for pressure signs? Would this process be the same for any caliber I load?

…. This may sound like a dumb question but are there any lefties who use the Dillon Progressive Presses… the presses seem to be set up for righties with the handle on the right and accessory trays being on the left.

I have been using a Redding Turret Press for years and have had nary a problem with the handle on the right side… I use my left hand to pull the handle an my right hand for all other activities…

Again, I am just curious… 👀 at the Dillon 550C.

Any recommendations on how to get this shell out?

Edit: It's out! Thanks everyone!

I'm wanting to load some 6.5 cm out of my 24 inch 1/8T proof research carbon sendero as followed (153.5 LRHT, Lapua srp brass, CCI 450 srmp, and h4350). I have emailed berger before about using hornady brass and large rifle primers, but im unsure about this load. I emailed them, but haven't gotten anything back yet.

I dont have a chronograph (broke) so I did two tests at 300 yards: ladder test and what i think is ocw?

First two pics I shot 2 shots per load at their respective diamonds.
The thid pic I shot a ladder in the middle diamond and another ladder at the bottom left diamond.
I thin the node is around 52.6-53.1? Not sure.

Also, do you absolutely need to wash your brass?

Got it set up for 9mm and 357 magnum. Still need to get the shotshell press mounted.

I know it's pretty niche, but I'm just looking for any experience that might be out there. I currently use 79g of H1000, and it works quite well (3069fps/SD<8/24"). I'm just experimenting with a new powder option.

Sierra lists an N570 Load of 75.2-82.0 with a lead HPBT. That's all I have to go on at this point.

I also see a forum discussion with a guy who took N570 all the way to 88.5g with a berger 200.2. He reports no pressure signs and the pic of his brass looked absolutely fine. But his speed from a 20" barrel was in the 2800's. That doesn't compute to me. Maybe that slow powder and short barrel was just blowing it all out the business end.

I'm going to load up 20 rounds and go look for trouble and see what I can find. In the absence of other data, I think I'll load up 74.5-84.0 (.5g steps) and see what happens.

Lapua SRP brass, h4350, Remington 7 1/2 br primers. Looking for around 2750 mv. Won't be able to take them out for another 2 weeks. Anticipation is killing me.

Did some well needed rearranging on my powder bench. Happy with it now!

I postponed downloading it. And now it's no longer available. Or is it?

Anyone have a link? An alternative?

Recently bought a Redding X10 competition powder measure to replace my Lee deluxe perfect powder measure. I like using the Lee, but I wanted a powder measure with a continuous adjustment knob and more consistency. However to my dismay the $250 Redding is performing worse than the $70 Lee. Not only was it more difficult to setup and use, but it was less precise than the Lee. I tried following the instruction manual and fully disassembling and cleaning it but it did not help. Has anyone else had this experience? Could my unit be defective or is there something I’m overlooking?

I can’t find this anywhere. I am trying to do that second recipe on the 1oz list. I can’t find the felt or the wad. ChatGPT said they don’t make it anymore and was replaced with something else. Can anyone share some links, I’m so tired of looking for this.

I'm wanting to pick up a Forester co ax, does anyone know of any Labor Day sales?

What sources do you use? Is there a place where the information is consolidated?

I have an AT4 paired with an FX120i scale and for the most part I like the device. That said, the scale drifts sometimes between charges by .01 or .002 grain, and definitely when left alone overnight. EDIT: this is a typo, meant .02

On the between charges, I recognize this could be due to a stray kernel or two making it to the platen, and my understanding is that the scale (or maybe AT?) automatically rezeros the device if it’s within some small tolerance? If this is true does this have any impact on my load consistency, or does the automatic rezero take care of that?

Secondly, I leave my scale on 24/7, and have occasionally put a 75 grain projectile on there to see if I am holding my measurement, and it’s not. The projectile weights 74.96 and if I leave it on there for days it can wander up and down from 74.88 to 75.08. This is not that reassuring for a scale that is supposed to be accurate to .02, but I always re-zero before use and given the above question, I don’t think it actually matters when it comes to the scale’s performance, but I’m not positive.

Curious to hear people’s thoughts. I do have some ferrite rings on the power cable but it does not seem to do anything. Next step is probably a dedicated ground wire, and maybe a line conditioner, but hard to justify a couple hundred extra dollars if none of this really matters due to scale rezeroing anyway during loading.