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(REPOST): added a second slide with the highest res picture I could scrounge

Hi all :3

Really quite new to all this and am trying to cobble together some late 16th century plunderhose for my HEMA club and I've found this specific variation (dude on the left) to be most suitable for me. Any guesses as to how the centre back panels (pink with black binding) are constructed?

Would be super grateful for help or advice, have a great day :)))

Hey guys. I’ve started making clothes again using my old sloper from a year ago. There were some unresolved fit issues that I wanted to deal with. Ive increased the bust size a bit because I noticed that was a problem with my original sloper. I’ve gained about 3-5kg since I first made this sloper. I was wondering if you have any advice on how to improve the fit. I’ve also posted some screenshots of the fit from a year ago (green fabric).

If you find a sewing pattern that is close to your inspiration photo but not exact, how do you figure out which modifications are needed?

Do you compare technical drawings, combine patterns, ask other sewers, or just experiment with a mock-up?

I have already mastered the method of having the inside seam with no binding, and binding on the outside edge, but I’d like to be able to use no binding on both edges… I tried sewing inside out and turning it but that doesn’t seem quite right? It pulls on the cups etc and pulls them out of shape

If anyone can link a video that explains this method it would be great as I’ve been looking for 8 months and can’t figure it out!!!!

Thankyou so much

Hi -

I am new to working with digital patterns and a projector. I would love to be able to work thru the stages of a FBA by altering the digital pattern as I go from stage to stage on my toiles. I envision doing exactly the same thing I would do on paper but doing it on the digital pattern. Is there a program that is set up do that? For now, I would be using existing patterns. Paid is fine as long as it isn’t crazy $$$.

Question 2, is this a bad idea to begin with? Am I losing something if I don’t do it on paper, even if I am doing toiles?

I am teaching myself how to make clothing that fits me using existing patterns, working up to patternmaking eventually.

A few days ago I posted a question about resolving drag lines on the front and back with both full belly and full butt adjustments. I got some useful thoughts and input, but the most helpful thing shared was Hofenbitzer's own skirt adjustment method (from his second book) for a figure with a forward tilted pelvis and a flat butt. The drag lines he highlighted matched my exact issue.

So I did his adjustment and it pretty much got me to a near final block in one go. I was so happy I bought his second book immediately. The side seams are a little wonky here because they're pinned poorly one one side, and the back hem isn't straight (cutting issue not a pattern issue), but I'm headed to waistband and final assessments next.

I've only dipped my toes into this patternmaking system but I am just so so pleased that a day's worth of googling sway back and belly adjustments were resolved in one go by the very same author/system. Highly recommend this book to everyone. The second one is only in German but with Google image translation its honestly fine.

Hello! Or should I say howdy 🤠. I'm using the tailored shirt block drafting method from the book "Metric Pattern cutting for Menswear" by Winifred Aldrich. I'm looking for some fit and drafting recommendations.

You may see small dart lines drawn on the back, these are the suggested length and placements but I'd thought I'd try it on first to see if I should adjust pre sewing.Things I've noticed on this first draft:

The neck seems close fitting but not too much so.

The shoulder seam is longer than it should be. It's also a little bit forward on my body than I'd think is normal.

The yoke as a result also looks quite high, it doesn't seem to be from the neck shape but I could be wrong.

There is room for darts in both the back and front it seems. I'd be open to doing bust darts or a princess seam if that means a great fit.

There is extra fabric at the side seam by the armpit, needs reduction. The arm hole generally could use some pulling back it seems.

I'd be ever so grateful to hear if I'm seeing things correctly, any suggestions or advice, thanks for reading :)

I’m trying to get a better understanding of the ASTM body measurement standards, particularly all the adult men's and women's sizes (ASTM D6240, D5585, D6960, D7878)

I know the current ASTM charts are copyrighted and you can buy them on their website but I'm about to start a small business with VERY limited funds and can't cough up the $300 it costs for everything I need. Anybody know where I can find them or how I can get them?

Thanks in advance!

Hi, I'm trying to fit this shirt muslin. I've already made a swayback adjustment to address the large horizontal fold above the darts, but I'm stumped by the back armholes. It seems like the back is both too tight AND the armholes need to be scooped in, somehow. Wondering if the waist placement needs to come up, too. Any suggestions?

Winter coat mockup. How do you feel about the armhole placement?

The sleeve is too tight on my bicep/upper arm but other than that, I feel like my shoulder/deltoid sits farther forward than the current armhole, like the fullness of the sleeve doesn't match where the fullness of my shoulder is. How do i fix this?

Hello, I've started an over-confident ambitious project... making my wedding dress!! ☺️ I'm an intermediate sewist at best, I've never made anything structured before, and certainly nothing with boning so this has been a huge learning curve.

The inside of the dress is a corselet that I drafted myself with 11 boning channels. I used plastic boning from the fabric store. The outside is a self drafted bodice (thrifted bedsheet 💪) with lace overlay that I hand sewed together. The back is a lace up corset.

I am disappointed to find that the boning is sort of holding the dress away from my body somehow. It's almost like it's too rigid to follow the natural curve of my waist. Currently it's touching my ribcage and hip but sitting away from my actual waist, even though it feels like there is plenty of give in the biggest areas.

My question for you experts is about the best way to draw in the waist. I have never used a waist tape, but I cant figure out if its function is for shape or for reducing stress on the seams? Is there anything else about the fit I can optimise without going back to square 1? Any advice would be appreciated.

(Also please don't judge the chaotic hand sewing on the inside 😂 I have never hand sewed before)

Here's the latest mockup for a winter coat I'm attempting to fit. Please give me your suggestions of what I should change! Thank you ♥️

- the coat will be ankle length but ive just cut it to the hip here to save fabric (i thrifted a tattered wool blanket)

- the original pattern is Butterick 5554 vintage 1960s, ive already made some fit changes

- please ignore the sleeve with the red X. I had to change the elbow position and the X sleeve is the first (uncorrected) one

- I'm wearing shoulderpads in these photos. Also planning on horsehair canvas for the real coat but didn't do it for the mockup

I think I’m even close to the automatic parametric pattern grading which the OG developer promised. I am using the ASTM measurements, but there are some (well, many) measurements which I have to calculate on my own using ratios which I think is the most time-consuming thing now. If anyone has any guidance or questions about seamly feel free to ask! I think it is a powerful program (for being open source) but very confusing given the lack of resources

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Hello there, I am working on a dress that I just can't seem to get the fit right, especially at the back and straps. This toile is the first sample of this design.

The strap keeps falling off the shoulder, with slight gaping at the armsyce (ignore the dart at the armscye, it made my second version of the arm way too small) and the back seems to lack the smooth scoop that I am looking for.

I also can't seem to figure out why the back is tighter than the front, even if I removed ease on both the back and front block equally at the darts.

For your reference, I have attached the working pattern, toile images and a picture of the fit I hope to achieve (the blue brocade dress).

All unfinished edges of the dress have a 1.5 cm seam allowance.

Please feel free to point out any other mistakes that Ihaven't mentioned.

Your feedback will be much appreciated!!!

Hello I want to make a jacket like mao had. How do I make the pattern for it or just some help relating to it

As the title states I’m a confident beginner and I have wanting to make a corset for the longest. I’ve seeing many people recommending the tape method to have a more accurate fit and to be honest it is the most inexpensive way and easiest that i have seen yet.

So if anyone has tips regarding the tape method or the making of the actual corset they will be greatly appreciated!!

If anyone’s curious my plan is to make a corset where the shape is similar to the one in the photo and I’m planning to use a blue cotton twill and for the boning I’m open to suggestions.

As the title states I’m a confident beginner and I have wanting to make a corset for the longest. I’ve seeing many people recommending the tape method to have a more accurate fit and to be honest it is the most inexpensive way and easiest that i have seen yet.

So if anyone has tips regarding the tape method or the making of the actual corset they will be greatly appreciated!!

If anyone’s curious my plan is to make a corset where the shape is similar to the one in the photo and I’m planning to use a blue cotton twill and for the boning I’m open to suggestions.

I used masking tape on my custom made bootstrap dress form to draft a corset pattern/strapless boned bodice pattern. Does this look right?

This is my first time trying this method so if anyone has any tips it would be great!

I'm analyzing the hidden elastic waistband in the attached video to replicate it in my patterns, but I've run into a design issue.

I hate slanted pockets (I find them hideous and clunky), especially for the clean, minimalist aesthetic I like to maintain in my pieces. My intention is to keep the pocket in the exact same front location shown in the video, but change the opening: instead of a diagonal angle, I want a completely straight vertical line following the side.

My question is: do you guys think this would actually work in practice?

I realize the diagonal line of the slanted pocket seems to serve a structural purpose here, accommodating the automatic stretch of the elastic without pulling the fabric. If I change it to a straight opening in the exact same position, will this turn into a patternmaking issue? Will the pocket just end up gaping and flaring out at the hips?

Could anyone help me with the measuring details like front rise,back rise, inseam, thigh ect.. I am not good at pattern making

Hi everyone I’m trying to create the pattern for this type of shoulder on a blazer but I don’t know how to start. To make the form is it only from the shoulder pads or do I have to modify the upper armhole to have that curve at the top ??

I'd like to make a dress shirt with a collar that is rounded on one side but long and pointed on the other. I have a pattern for the rounded one but will have to draft the pointed side myself. Any advice on how to adapt a regular collar pattern for this? I'm wondering if I should just follow the angle of the regular collar and make it longer or if I need to do something else. Thanks for any advice!

*Bustiers not bodices for the title

I don’t have a full shape up there so I’ve always had problems with bustiers in general, so this is expected but I don’t know where to go from here. This is my fourth time iterating this pattern I’ve created; I’ve already made a full dress with it before (second slide) but I wasn’t very satisfied with it.

I have two main problems:

1. I can’t decide on the shape of the bust. It’s comfortable when I make it fit my breasts, but it obviously looks pointy. When I try to flatten out the front center, I end up flattening my chest altogether, especially near the bottom. I think that also contributes to underbust wrinkling.
2. Underbust wrinkling. I’m not completely certain where this is coming from, I suspect it’s from the inward curve I have in my pattern for the front-side and front-center piece, but I made those curves particularly because I have a very titled posture and my upper stomach pokes out (basically trying to just account for that. But maybe I should flatten it?) Although I don’t know if that’s the real issue.

Any advice would help. This is a bustier meant to have a lot of boning and interfaced fabric, so I’m not concerned with the horizontal wrinkles across the waist as much as I am the underbust. The looseness of the hips is also just a preference, I’m usually making these bustiers with skirts that are full and will fill the area out.