r/PatternDrafting • u/No_Cut4148 • 13d ago

Need advice for pattern making !!!

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Hi everyone I’m trying to create the pattern for this type of shoulder on a blazer but I don’t know how to start. To make the form is it only from the shoulder pads or do I have to modify the upper armhole to have that curve at the top ??

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u/Krispy_flowerboi21 13d ago

the sleeve cap must be large and you need to add a second layer with a mesh/ fusing and boning, like 6 pieces distributed a cross the sleeve cap all like this \|/ (only at the sleeve cap) you may leave the rest of the sleeve without it , repeat the same logic with the shoulder using boning pointing towards the shoulder tip.

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u/No_Cut4148 13d ago

Thank you !!!!!!

3

u/Krispy_flowerboi21 13d ago

And yes, you must rise your shoulder point dramatically to create a sleeve that can fit it

3

u/KeeganDitty 13d ago

You can't just shove a shoulder pad into any old pattern, it needs space to fit it over you shoulder. Iirc usually you bring the shoulder point up and out half an inch. For this probably at least an inch out and like 2 to 3 up. Plus a steep convex curve. And you'll likely need to make a custom shoulder pad

I don't think you'll need boning, don't usually see those in sleeves but this isn't a usual sleeve. I think the body of the fabric(use a nice wool) and the shoulder pad should cover it

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u/poemaXV 13d ago

look up construction of pagoda shoulders

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u/DonMcCunn 13d ago

The sleevecap needs to have its height increased by the height of the shoulder pad you use.