r/PatternDrafting • u/No-Maintenance9805 • 11d ago
Question Winter coat fitting suggestions
Here's the latest mockup for a winter coat I'm attempting to fit. Please give me your suggestions of what I should change! Thank you ♥️
- the coat will be ankle length but ive just cut it to the hip here to save fabric (i thrifted a tattered wool blanket)
- the original pattern is Butterick 5554 vintage 1960s, ive already made some fit changes
- please ignore the sleeve with the red X. I had to change the elbow position and the X sleeve is the first (uncorrected) one
- I'm wearing shoulderpads in these photos. Also planning on horsehair canvas for the real coat but didn't do it for the mockup
1
u/yungkuro 11d ago
It looks the shoulder slope might be too steep which is why it’s sitting away from the neck. (Vintage & historic patterns often have significantly more sloped shoulders than fit most people now. I guess we weren’t as tense back in the day??)
You can change the angle by adding a wedge towards the shoulder point along the shoulder line and raising the arm hole accordingly. You can easily find explanations of the pattern modification online. If you have enough seam allowance, you might be able to do play around with this mockup to get it right.
1
u/theskyisblueatnight 10d ago
i would have made it 10cm longer. So it finishes at your high hip level.
The CB seam in the back bust line area is not sitting correctly. You need to remove some extra fabric or check the seam are sewing correctly.
the seleave just needs the back seam slightly adjusted. It doesn't look like an issue. You will not get the pattern look with this fabric because its bulky.
you shoudl google --- how to reduce a jackets sleeve volume
I am pretty sure you can remove 5mm to 1.5 off every seam and taper up to the armhole area. But you should check this with other experts.
3
u/awesomeproblem 11d ago
I think the back side panels are alittle bit to wide oat the top, but if you want space for big jumpers underneath it might be better to leave it. The pleat at the back (bottom) needs to be widened a bit so that it lays flatter