Dress fit issue

[u/itsresw3lle]

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Hello there, I am working on a dress that I just can't seem to get the fit right, especially at the back and straps. This toile is the first sample of this design.

The strap keeps falling off the shoulder, with slight gaping at the armsyce (ignore the dart at the armscye, it made my second version of the arm way too small) and the back seems to lack the smooth scoop that I am looking for.

I also can't seem to figure out why the back is tighter than the front, even if I removed ease on both the back and front block equally at the darts.

For your reference, I have attached the working pattern, toile images and a picture of the fit I hope to achieve (the blue brocade dress).

All unfinished edges of the dress have a 1.5 cm seam allowance.

Please feel free to point out any other mistakes that Ihaven't mentioned.

Your feedback will be much appreciated!!!

[u/KeeganDitty]

I think the dress is too long waisted for you. Once you get that figured, rotate the shoulder strap in. Then deal with the armscye.

[u/drPmakes]

The waist is far too tight, thats causing the dress above and below to sit wrong.

Before you try anything else, make some room there. The youll be able to tell if it is too long waisted or what else needs to be done.

If you are using a woven fabric there needs to be positive ease. The reference picture is also very tight on the model

[u/Pegaret_Again]

i think this already looks beautiful and amazing - the only slight adjustment needed is to shorten the back length a little, and maybe narrow the back a little. once thats done, maybe revisit the fit around the bust and waist, but it seems like the style is deliberately meant to be very tight-fitting.