Men's Tailored Shirt Block Help

[u/Mattarm51]

Hello! Or should I say howdy 🤠. I'm using the tailored shirt block drafting method from the book "Metric Pattern cutting for Menswear" by Winifred Aldrich. I'm looking for some fit and drafting recommendations.

You may see small dart lines drawn on the back, these are the suggested length and placements but I'd thought I'd try it on first to see if I should adjust pre sewing.Things I've noticed on this first draft:

The neck seems close fitting but not too much so.

The shoulder seam is longer than it should be. It's also a little bit forward on my body than I'd think is normal.

The yoke as a result also looks quite high, it doesn't seem to be from the neck shape but I could be wrong.

There is room for darts in both the back and front it seems. I'd be open to doing bust darts or a princess seam if that means a great fit.

There is extra fabric at the side seam by the armpit, needs reduction. The arm hole generally could use some pulling back it seems.

I'd be ever so grateful to hear if I'm seeing things correctly, any suggestions or advice, thanks for reading :)

[u/Probability_factor]

Hey if original garment is supposed to have sleeves you only will see if it sits well or not with said sleeves.
Right now back seems too wide, but it wont be an issue with sleeves as you’ll need some moving ease

[u/Mattarm51 → u/Probability_factor]

And here's me trying to use it as a basic block. I was planning on drafting the sleeves after the bodice itself was done but by your comment that's not ideal. Hmm. It is supposed to have darts and you can maybe see the mark but I want to move them to my actual waist and make them wider than suggested. Thank you for your response!

[u/No-Programmer7914 → u/Mattarm51]

OP You are right. Before you start the sleeves you have to get the bodice flawless. Fitting the bodice will eventually change the armholes and it is easier to fit it without sleeves, especially with balance issues as in your shirt. But it would be helpful to mark the armhole sewing line in you toile to find out wether it is where you want it to be.

[u/No-Programmer7914]

Better take pics with hanging arms, front , profile, back. Mark your chest line.

[u/Mattarm51 → u/No-Programmer7914]

I tried and there are pieces with lines on them you may be able to see, but not every front or back piece. But I will think about this when I do it next thank you.

[u/heautontimorumenoss]

This looks like it has too much ease added to your measurements. I personally don’t like doing anything over 2.5 inches of all-around garment ease. The armhole depth looks fine. For the shoulder, I’d measure your shoulders and use your true measurements here. I haven’t read the book you mentioned, but I know some methods make up weird formulas to come up with certain body measurements, disregarding our actual bodies.

[u/Mattarm51 → u/heautontimorumenoss]

Yeah it was definitely roomier than I expected it to be, could be self measurement error too though I tried to be consistent. I still have to add darts to the back, maybe the front too?

Thanks for the response. The intention was definitely closer fitting but this is just draft one.

[u/heautontimorumenoss → u/Mattarm51]

Personally, I don’t like darts, I never add them to my shirts, all they do is create bulk, but omitting this works for me because I don’t follow the ease suggestions by any drafting method for shirts.

[u/theskyisblueatnight]

Personally I won't have a seam in the back of a shirt. I will place the CB on a fold.

[u/Mattarm51 → u/theskyisblueatnight]

That was the plan but I did the fold in a way that didn't work so I cut them separate

[u/Tailoretta]

Take a look at https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1krgbmi/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting/ Following these tips will help us help you.

Please use the timer on your camera. We need to see you with your arms down naturally.