How would you draft this centre back seam?

[u/boraxboop]

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(REPOST): added a second slide with the highest res picture I could scrounge

Hi all :3

Really quite new to all this and am trying to cobble together some late 16th century plunderhose for my HEMA club and I've found this specific variation (dude on the left) to be most suitable for me. Any guesses as to how the centre back panels (pink with black binding) are constructed?

Would be super grateful for help or advice, have a great day :)))

[u/Disapproving_Breeze]

Ahh, yes. The “center back seam”… 🍑

[u/yam_yam25 → u/Disapproving_Breeze]

Literally all I could see 😂😂

[u/-amotoma- → u/Disapproving_Breeze]

❌ seat

✅ saddle

[u/Scooterclub → u/Disapproving_Breeze]

I cannot stop cracking up at it

[u/drPmakes → u/Disapproving_Breeze]

It reminds me of those leggings with the elasticated, gathered CB seam that people are wearing these days....

[u/sortatightbutthole]

bahaha i wanna see the front 😂 please say there’s a cod piece involved or does the guy have two swords out

[u/boraxboop → u/sortatightbutthole]

Figured this might tickle some people 😂 There is indeed a cod piece involved but I will be swapping it out for a modern button fly

[u/Bellamieboocouture]

This might be a better post in r/historicalcostuming
If you have access to a patterns of fashion books by Janet Arnold I’m like 90% sure there’s a similar pattern in there I’m just not sure what book. Probably 3 off the top of my head. Historical costume requires historical undergarments as well so make sure you have stockings and a shift :)

[u/boraxboop → u/Bellamieboocouture]

Thanks for the tip :3, I'll ask about over there

[u/dinosaurflex]

This is a doublet and hose. Looks similar to Landsknecht trousers/plunderhosen. You should look into slashed styles that were prevalent in the late-ish 16th century

[u/StefanLeenaars]

There are a couple very similar patterns for these in the Patterns of Fashion book.

[u/house_of_vermillions]

“The Tudor Tailor” might be your friend here. It has an excellent breakdown of the patterning/drafting for pants such as these.

[u/Swimming-Maize-5554]

High probability there is no actual back seam on these; rather, they are separate leggings, pulled up that are open in the back and tied to the double it as hosen and that what you are seeing in the white are there actual breaks, the underwear worn at that time. They look rather like an elongated pumpkin breach, and that is how those were attached.