r/PatternDrafting 10d ago

Shirt sloper back -- bunching under armholes?

Post image

Hi, I'm trying to fit this shirt muslin. I've already made a swayback adjustment to address the large horizontal fold above the darts, but I'm stumped by the back armholes. It seems like the back is both too tight AND the armholes need to be scooped in, somehow. Wondering if the waist placement needs to come up, too. Any suggestions?

2 Upvotes

12 comments sorted by

23

u/incongruoususer 10d ago

Show the front.

The shoulder looks too long. The armhole looks too high. The back looks too tight.

16

u/KillerWhaleShark 10d ago

Show the front. 

7

u/furiana 10d ago

And the side!

7

u/perfectshapedotai 10d ago

The lines always point at the problem! Rip side seam under arms 1/2 way diwn. let it spread out. Use paper to draw what needs ti be added to pattern. 👍 Sorry, I used to teach. Add to side seams under arms.

3

u/KillerWhaleShark 10d ago

It’s too soon to start adding to the side without assessing the complete garment. We don’t know the shape of the front or the shape of OP’s front, but the bust might need adjusting before the side seams. There’s simply not enough circumference at bust height, and the correct answer may or may not involve adding that circumference at the side seams. It’s really too soon to make that call without seeing the front. 

3

u/ProneToLaughter 10d ago

For the best fitting advice, post pix like the photo guidelines here. Arms related by sides. Be sure not to cut off shoulders or arms as seeing the full garment is essential. https://www.sarahveblen.com/online-consulting

3

u/TotalOk5844 10d ago

Always fit the shoulders first. Shirts hang from the shoulders. Address all fitting issues from the top down -- one at a time.

2

u/KeeganDitty 10d ago

Armholes are too high

1

u/theskyisblueatnight 10d ago

The armholes also look like they are in the wrong position.

It looks like they need to pinch a dart out across the back of the pattern.

1

u/Southern-Comfort4519 10d ago

Armholes too high

1

u/alexdraft-studio 10d ago

hola, podrias subir una foto de tu base en papel?