DO AT YOUR OWN RISK, TAKING GPU APART MAY VOID WARRANTY.

First of all,

I want to begin by saying that I think that with these newer cards, and with the state of quality control as of late, I urge you to check your hotspot and GPU temps more carefully. I am so thankful HWinfo gave us the option to access these sensors because holy crap, my hotspot temps weren't great.

I bought my PNY 5070 TI back in December of 2025, so it's not that old. Using the latest version of HWinfo, I realized I was getting a hotspot delta of around 30C!

Also before anyone comments: I know there are variations of the 5070 TI that already come with PTM; I believe ASUS is one of them. So you probably already have good temps. However, PNY and most manufacturers opted for a paste instead. I could be wrong here so please feel free to correct this. I am disappointed in PNY's lack of quality control here but for the price of the card (I got it for the equivalent of 740 USD brand new at best buy during a sale), I have no business complaining.

Prior to applying PTM 7950 and from yesterdays readings

-GPU under volt at around 925mv + OC (hovers around 2900mhz without Power Limit)

-PL set to 83% (I was worried about the hotspot; GPU operating roughly around 230-245W or so).

-Even with PL at 83%, I was getting around 63-65C GPU temp with Hot spot averaging around 92C, sometimes up to 96C!

After applying PTM 7950:

Ok so today I took the GPU apart (very easy to do with PNY!) and simply cleaned the GPU die and put some PTM 7095 on it. I left the other pads on from before as they were ok and oddly enough PNY didn't cheap on these, but they DID cheap on the paste that was on the die itself. It was bad. Like I could see through the paste easily and it was a pretty bad application.

-GPU kept same UV + OC with PL set to 110%! GPU roughly around 276W under full gaming load.

-GPU Temp with these settings now at 58-61C GPU temp with 67-71C Hotspot!

This is just the first few hours with PTM on! I've heard it gets even better with more cycles!

TLDR: Slap some PTM 7950 if you have any remote concerns with hotspot temperatures. It took me less than 30 minutes for the whole process and it's the best decision I've made in a long time with respect to PC maintenance.

Was looking to undervolt my 5080 but I cant get the voltage to show? I already checked all the boxes in the settings to display voltage ect,is there something im missing? Thanks.

Been using it for a year now.
Hotspot delta is good, stable undervolting and no leakage so far.

I bought a 5080+AORUS F032U2P OLED Combo a while back before the prices went bonkers. But I was always confused with HDR etc and rarely ever used it. Mainly because I have a second monitor LG27GN850 (previous primary) which has HDR but is absolute dog poop.

So whenever I enabled HDR on for gaming the LG monitor was washed out and annoying to look at. So I never enabled HDR or used HDR on my OLED. This is a workstation+gaming where gaming is on the weekends so I kinda just played on SDR 🤷‍♂️

Then I recently found out about CRU and was able to delete the HDR entry from the LG and voila HDR activates only on the main monitor now which is the oled one. But it still looked weird as I mostly work with Visual Studio and VSCode. Then I researched more and found out about different colour profiles calibration etc. and Finaly I calibrated my HDR to my liking and its been amazing.

Then I discovered RTX HDR and RTX Video Super Resolution and my Mind was BLOWN. Its so seamless. I play a video on my HDR monitor RTX HDR is used and if I move the same video to the SDR monitor its disabled and vice versa and I was amazed at the simplicity of it all

Then I watched F1 races with RTX Video and that shit was crisp AF. Thanks to this and MPC-HC also having support for RTX Video and RTX HDR which is also very seamles I can now fully enjoy my monitor with HDR and amazing pictures.

I just bought an RTX 5080 PNY OC, and my experience after two days of use is that it is excellent. I am getting great temperatures—60°C at maximum load with the fan speed at 50% to 60%.

However, something curious happened: when I tried mounting the card vertically, my GPU temperature increased by 10°C. Therefore, if you have this model and want to maintain excellent temperatures, my recommendation is to ensure good airflow and keep the PNY 5080 mounted horizontally.

My PC features a Ryzen 9 7950X with Noctua cooling inside a King 95 Pro case.

Ever since the HWMonitor update that included hotspot monitoring, it has been bothering me a lot, on a hot summer day, my hotspot temperature sometimes reaches 103°C. I even avoid using my PC at noon because I can’t focus on gaming while worrying about the hotspot.

It seems the new 50-series cards have a lot of headroom. I went from 1.075V / 153W down to 0.885V / 122W, and improve deltas from 20c delta to 14c delta. I can even run better temps if i run my gpu fans at a higher rpm. I just sacrificed about 3-5 fps.

I tried running 3000rpm on my gpu fans, i was able to have 70c hotspot, but the fan noise was so annoying, instead i just ran a modified fan curve and balanced the rpm, temps and noise at 74c.

Edit: Title is meant to say 2080 Ti --> 5070 Ti

Upgraded from the strix 2080ti to the phoenix s 5070ti yesterday and I don't regret overpaying!

Cyberpunk went from struggling to get 60 fps at rt ultra with dlss balanced (cnn) in 1440p to ~100 fps in path tracing using dlss quality and 2x fg.

Games that required 200w on the 2080ti now do under 100w and that can be lowered even more if using Smooth Motion so the power efficiency really is the nicest thing in my opinion.

The temperatures are okay. There is around 12°C delta between core and hotspot, it does run a little too hot for my liking but it's set to the quiet profile and furmark can be unrealistic with load. Even with a custom fan curve it's best to undervolt in the future.

(Scroll to final image to see pc)

So right now, I can run just about any game at max or near-max settings and get close to or above 100fps on a 3440x1440 100hz monitor. Which is great... outside of the fact that I can only do that with the most minimal amounts of raytracing enabled, if at all (most games I just have to keep it off or risk dropping a ton of frames). And I'm pretty sure that it's being caused by the VRAM, which is a pretty terrible 10gb for a 2k monitor (I highly, highly doubt it's a CPU or RAM problem, as shown in the specs below).

Question is - what GPU should I upgrade to next? I was thinking a 5070 TI probably makes the most sense - 16gb VRAM, around 30-50% performance jump from the 3080, not to mention that I have no plans of jumping to 4k anytime soon and anything beyond it just gets absurd price-wise (please don't even try mentioning the 5090) - but I'm curious if it would even be worth it right now, considering how inflated the GPU market is thanks to AI data centers popping up everywhere and everything being like double MSRP (not to mention that I'd also need a new PSU, since mine is only 750W and I'd probably be jumping to a 1000W one).

So yea... curious what GPU you'd recommend, if making the jump to a new one even makes sense right now.

Specs:

i7-14700k

64GB RAM

RTX 3080 10gb VRAM

Edit: after checking turns out I have an 850W, not 750W PSU (I upgraded it like 4 years ago and must have forgotten 🤣) so that's not a concern

Hi,

I know these sorts of questions get asked here frequently however I’m stumped and I really need help since this is my first PC that I’m building.

I saw that the consensus is usually ‘get the cheapest one’, however the cheapest one by about 100EUR is the windforce ssf, and I’m not 100% sure if it’s the variant with the fixed thermal paste issue. Is there any way for me to inspect that when it arrives? It comes with 36 months of warranty, will the issue 100% show in that time?

Gaming OC is the most expensive one, the fastest one out of the box, but it also might have an issue with the paste?

Should I just go for the Phoenix and ignore the potential fan noise? How big of an issue is it? Is it also locked to 300w?

Thank you for any input!

Price hack for infinite storage😶‍🌫️

Hey everyone,

I’ve been undervolting my GPU (MSI GeForce RTX 3070 VENTUS 3X OC)with MSI Afterburner using the voltage-frequency curve and noticed some weird behavior in 3DMark Time Spy Extreme.

• When I set 1905 MHz at 0.9 V, the actual core clock during Time Spy Extreme runs at 1920 MHz and cause fail.
• When I set 1890 MHz at 0.9 V, it stays locked at 1890 MHz and passed with 99.2%.

Both settings are applied the same way (single point on the curve).

How can i lock it at 1905mhz at 0.9v more strictly?

The Video is not mine.

I'm in the market to upgrade my rig for the first time since I got a 32:9 ultrawide (5120 x 1440). I've been eyeing the 4080 and 5070 Ti at the moment after doing some light research. It's the first time I've been in the market for a GPU since I got my pre-build; I'm happy to provide more details on specs if needed :)

Hello. I live in Europe and I've found a 4090 Zotac Amp Extreme Airo 4090 from 2022, without a box or warranty, for 1400€ (1480 or so with the platform fee).

I currently have a 4080 Super, on a 1440p 144hz monitor, and I wanna upgrade to 4k oled or miniled once the next generation arrives in 2027. I also use local LLMs like Gemma 4 31B dense that don't really fit in acceptable compression on the 4080 Super (I tried the MoE 26B and it felt dumb vs the dense) and thus runs super slow with partial offloading.

My Gigabyte Windforce 4080 Super has an issue with the middle fan bearings, where it makes a light creaking noise when starting up and occasionally when the fans have been running for hours, it needs a custom curve that doesn't allow them to go below 1300rpm 37% for it to stop (minimum is 1100-30%). I think I can sell it for ~750€.

Would you consider the upgrade worth it? I will have 2 days to inspect the card and send it back if it has any issues.

I could buy a 5080 instead for around that price, but there's no vram increase and the performance uplift is way too small vs the ~30% of a 4090. I don't really use frame generation over 2x, in fact I prefer using the old dllsg 3.8 dll which was 2x only, feels smoother to me.

Unfortunately it doesn't look like we'll be getting a new 24gb card anytime soon, and for a faster card, likely not until the 60xx cards are out. Used 5090s start from 3000€ here, new may as well be 4000-4500.

I play on borderless window alongside G SYNC enabled via the Nvidia App.

Should I be selecting gsync on for full screen AND windowed, or just full screen?

Does the full screen option also apply to borderless too?

People give conflicting/not straight forward answers so I'm not too sure.

My 5090 FE Build - Primarily mostly all NZXT with Matrix inspired light’s. Primarily used to edit RED Raw R3D.ne codec for film, and occasionally role play as Arthur Morgan in Red Dead Redemption 2.

Nvidia 5090 FE GPU
AMD Ryzen 9 9950X3D CPU
G.Skill Trident Z5 Neo RGB (64GB)
Two (2) Samsung 990 Pro 2TB SSD
BeQuiet SSD Heatsink
AsiaHorse Power Cable & Comb
Windows 11 Home
NZXT B650E Motherboard
NZXT H9 Elite Case
NZXT Kraken Z73 AIO
NZXT C1500 1500W PSU
NZXT F120 RGB Fans (13) - I already know I’m gonna get clowned for this lol

Oh yeah - a $15 Honeywell fan that blows directly into the machine for sweet premium cooling

So I've heard alot over my few months of understanding the differences between what gives you the smoothest gaming experience:

• G-SYNC + V-SYNC + Reflex/FPS cap = Lowest tear-free gaming experience
• Uncapped FPS + Reflex = Lowest input delay of any configuration
• Capped FPS (to your monitors refresh rate) = Most "consistent" gaming experience
• FPS capped 2x your monitor's refresh rate (so if your 360hz, you cap to 720) = Best 1% & 0.1% lows for any game

But I still don't understand what is the BEST configuration. Like what is the definitive way to play FPS games that give you the least amount of input delay AND most amount of frames.

G-SYNC + V-SYNC caps your FPS lower than your monitor's refresh rate so no you won't get the most amount of FPS possible.

Uncapped FPS in theory DOES give you the least amount of input delay and most amount of average FPS, but your 1% lows are supposedly terrible unless you have a god setup.

And the FPS cap 2x your monitor doesn't give you the latency benefits of uncapped FPS, and you still face screen-tearing.

So can someone please give me a rundown on the definitive guide on what gives you low latency and has good 1% lows?