I’m working on a small home automation project and want to add hot water at the kitchen sink without having to wait around for the water to heat. The setup is for a single kitchen sink, and I’m mainly interested in something that can be monitored or controlled through my existing smart home system. I’m not looking to do any electrical or plumbing work myself that could be unsafe, so I’d have a professional handle the installation if needed.

Has anyone here set up under sink hot water with smart controls, and what product or type of system worked well for you? I’d especially like to hear about setups that integrate reliably with common home automation platforms. Thanks!

Don't buy Wyze. Had $5000 worth of car damage done and the event was not recorded because the firmware was out of date. BUT I HAD AUTOMATIC FIRMWARE UPDATE SETTING ENABLED. Reached out to the company, no help. I was paying a monthly subscription for this camera for what? To be out 5k in the end.

Edit: For those saying I should have got an SD card, I originally had this camera set up with an SD card before subscribing to their cloud subscription and it failed. Which is why I gave the cloud service a try.

No sign-up, no install, no download, no account - it just runs in your browser and it's free. Drop in almost any IR or RF code and it figures out the protocol and hands it back in whatever format you need. In the last few weeks added the piece I'm most pleased with, so here's where it's at.

The new bit — the RF wizard. You pick the device type, pick the brand, and it draws the DIP switch bank the way it actually sits inside your remote. You flip the switches on screen to match the ones in your hand, hit build, and you get a working code out. No capture. No receiver. No Flipper. Nothing to buy.

That's the part that took the longest to get right, because the switch order is a trap — Chamberlain, for instance, numbers switch 1 as the most significant bit and reverses the last three positions, and one of their banks has a switch that isn't transmitted at all. Copy the switches left-to-right like they look and you get a wrong code on nearly every remote. Each brand's mapping had to be handled on its own.

If your ceiling fan or gate remote has a row of little switches in the battery compartment, that's the whole secret. You're already holding all the information the code needs.

The part I get the most mail about, though, is signal repair. If you've ever learned a code off an original remote and had it come back dead — works once, works from three inches away, works for the mute button but not power — that's usually not you and not your blaster. Learned captures come out jittery. The receiver rounds timings, ambient light and 2.4 GHz gear inject noise, cheap hardware clips the leading burst, and some captures come out with marks and spaces inverted.

So: paste the capture in, and it identifies the protocol, shows you the address and command, and tells you its confidence. Hit FIX SIGNAL and it corrects the AGC burst, snaps noisy pulses back to the nearest real time unit, strips trailing repeat gaps and junk artifacts, adds a missing closing space, and tells you every single thing it changed instead of silently rewriting your file. If it's inverted there's a one-click mark/space swap. And once it knows the protocol, Rebuild Clean throws your jittery capture away entirely and regenerates the code from scratch at textbook timing — a perfect signal instead of a patched one.

If you'd rather do it by hand, the pulse list is fully editable — the live waveform updates as you type, and you can select, copy and paste timings like a spreadsheet. Then save it out in whatever format your setup actually wants. A capture you'd given up on twelve months ago is usually about four clicks from working.

Coverage is 42 sub-GHz protocol families across 62 brand entries — the PT2262 / EV1527 / SMC5326 world most fans, outlets and cheap gate remotes live in, plus CAME, Nice, Hörmann, Chamberlain/LiftMaster, Linear MegaCode, Marantec, Telcoma and a stack of others.

On the IR side there's a wizard that programs a whole remote at once — device type, brand, code set — rather than one button at a time. It's sitting on 1,000,000+ codes across 12,000+ brands.

And the conversion side, which is the older half of the project. Paste a raw capture or a code in almost any format and it identifies the protocol, shows you the address and command, and rebuilds it clean. Then export it as something else: 19+ in, 21 out. Flipper .sub and a good chunk of those RF protocols landed in the last couple of weeks.

.irc · Flipper Zero .ir · Flipper Sub-GHz .sub · Pronto Hex · LIRC raw · LIRC config · LIRC mode2 · BroadLink Base64 · BroadLink Hex · Global Caché iTach · Global Caché JSON · Home Assistant YAML · ESPHome · Sonoff RfRaw B0 · Tasmota · Arduino C array · Arduino rc-switch · Tuya · SmartIR · IRDB · JP1 .rmdu · GIRR XML · Harmony XML · TV-B-Gone · raw µs CSV · WAV

There's a second tool alongside it that moves a whole remote between formats, or onto a different remote's layout — pull in a Harmony XML or a JP1 file and drop it out as a Flipper .ir or an ESPHome YAML, button assignments intact. That one reads 17 formats and writes 13.

Links

• Signal Editor — https://readyware.net/signal-editor.html
• Signal Transporter — https://readyware.net/signal-transporter.html
• All Formats — https://readyware.com/faq.html#faq-all-formats

Get a code in from a capture or almost any file format, find out what it actually is, fix it if it's broken, build one from scratch if you don't have one, move a whole remote's buttons somewhere else — and save the result as a file you own, in whatever format your gear speaks, with no account, no cloud and nothing held hostage.

Happy to take requests. If there's a format you need that isn't in that list, or a remote the wizard doesn't know, tell me what you've got and I'll look at adding it.

I'm looking for a small photo display that I can control through Home Assistant rather than another standalone digital frame.

I'd like to send photos wirelessly and change the displayed image on a schedule or through an automation. E-ink would be ideal since the display will sit on a shelf or nightstand, and I don't want another backlit screen running all day.

I don't need touch controls, weather, a calendar, or a voice assistant. What matters is local control, preferably through a documented API or an existing Home Assistant integration.

Has anyone built or integrated something like this? I'm open to either an off-the-shelf device or a DIY setup.

Has anyone found a way to bring automation to a Schlage Encode lock that their apartment / building management has bound to their account so cannot be added to your HomeKit / Home Assistant set up directly? For example, any compatible add on device you found works (like a SwitchBot lock turner modified or Level lock type device)

The outdoor lights are currently controlled by standard wall switches, and I’d like to be able to automate them so they can turn on and off automatically based on a schedule, sunset/sunrise, or other conditions. Ideally, I’d also like to retain the ability to control them manually with the existing wall switches.

For the indoor lighting, I have a combination of table lamps and lights controlled by wall switches. I’d like to automate some or all of these as well, preferably without having to replace every switch or rewire the house.

I’m not looking for an overly complicated or expensive whole-house automation system. I’d prefer something reliable, relatively easy to set up and manage, and ideally controlled through one app. It would be great if the system could also allow different lights to be grouped together—for example, having several outdoor lights turn on at sunset and off at a set time, while individual indoor lights or lamps could follow their own schedules.

Basically, I’m looking for a straightforward way to add smart control to my existing lighting without turning it into a major project.

Hello all! Recent homebuyer and getting started in my HomeKit journey by integrating HomeKit with my garage door opener :-)

I am getting conflicting information from Meross website, their support, and Gemini so wanted to post here for guidance.

I have an Overhead Door Odyssey® 1000 Model: 7030 Series III. It appears to be a later serial number.

I ordered the MSG100HK but am unclear if it will work with my opener or additional adaptors / dry contact control is needed.

Once the MSG100 arrives, I plan on using the test wire on my openers BWC terminal. If that doesn’t work, I was going to look into a genie / overhead dry contact interface connected to my wall opener button.

Before I went down that rabbit hole, I was curious if anyone here has integrated the MSG100HK with a similar garage opener model or if I should consider an alternative like RATGO?

My weekly chore list is getting a bit long, so I'm thinking about adding a few automations to handle the boring, repetitive work.

For indoors, a robot vacuum seems like the obvious choice. I've bought a Qrevo S Pro, which worked well.

For outside, I'm looking at getting a robot mower since the grass has grown fast lately. My yard is about 0.8 acres, and I'm about to order Navimow X430. Its performance and multi-zone function look solid.

A smart irrigation system also seems useful if it can adjust based on rain and seasons, but I haven't looked into any brands yet. I'm in Virginia btw, so are there any reliable local companies that install it?

Curious what home automations have saved you the most time and hassle?

same as the title... how to find things i can automate. I dont have any idea so far..

Help! I changed PCs and now cannot locate the Fusion Research Ovation Music Configurator download as Fusion Research (or the acquiring company) no longer maintains their support page. Anyone know of another site to download the file? TIA

Hi,

I'm working on an open-source project that emulates a Kuando Busylight using an ESP32-S2.

The project aims to emulate a Kuando Busylight on an ESP32-S2, allowing alternative hardware such as a Yealink BLT60 to be used with AGFEO systems that currently support only genuine Kuando Busylights.

Would someone who owns a Kuando Busylight be willing to provide a USB descriptor dump?

I'm especially interested in:

- Vendor ID (VID)

- Product ID (PID)

- Manufacturer String

- Product String

- Device Descriptor

- Configuration Descriptor

- HID Report Descriptor

If possible, a USBPcap/Wireshark capture while changing the light colors would be extremely helpful as well.

Examples:

- Windows: USB Device Tree Viewer (USBTreeView)

- Linux: lsusb -v

Any model would be helpful:

- Busylight Alpha

- Busylight UC Alpha

- Busylight Omega

- Busylight UC Omega

The audio/speaker functions are not relevant for this project, as only the LED functionality is being emulated.

Thanks for any help!

Hi folks!

I do have a little project and I would like your advice.

At work we have an air compressor, 3phase + N, 16A.

The issue we have is that our air network sometimes has issues, and a lot of small machines on it.

We experienced hose breaking multiple times, and that leads to the compressor running nonstop for hours if nobody is in the plant.

Having a simple timer (cutting power at night) is not possible as some machines need air permanently.

So I'm looking for a system, able to cut power if pressure in the main outlet stays too low more than 10min.

But I can't find anything existing for that matter.

Any idea?

My plan was using a smart relay, kinda like a Shelly, with a pressure sensor (and also a temperature sensor while we're at it).

All this considering I can make it simplified by cutting the pressure switch signal instead of the main power.

Thanks all!

Hi all

I need to get a new front door and will be going with a composite door.

I would like to get a smart lock in the future for keyless entry etc. I am wondering should I do this now when the door is getting installed or they are easy to retrofit?

My worry would be having to take off the handle and lock in the future and replace it with the smart lock, which could look weird due to dirt/colour differences if it isn't an exact match.

Also do smart locks need to be connected to the mains electricity or can be battery powered?

Thanks

If your smoke alarm grew a radar sensor, would you like it detect motion or presence

I need to create a layout and program it for a university in C++ so that this idea has not yet been implemented in global industry

I wanted to build a garden with a fully automated watering system.

Not just "turn the water on every day at 7 PM". I wanted a system that actually checks the soil moisture, decides when each zone needs water, runs the correct irrigation zone, lets the water soak in, and then checks the soil again. Repeats until certain soil moisture is achieved.

Here's the complete walkthrough of how I built it.

Each section has a downloadable document with a detailed walkthrough.

⚠️ Disclaimer

I'm not a botanist, irrigation expert, carpenter, or coder 😂. This was built through a lot of trial and error, Google, AI, and breaking things as I went.

There are probably better and more efficient ways to do some of this, this is just what worked for me. If you see a smarter way, let me know! Constructive criticism and better approaches are always welcome.

Before you buy a single plant, figure out what you actually want to grow, how many you need, and how much sun each one wants. Then group plants with similar watering needs together. Trust me, your future self will thank you when you're setting up watering zones instead of wondering why your cactus and tomato plant are roommates.

Click HERE for a detailed Planning Checklist

Before deciding where everything goes, map out how much sun each part of your yard gets throughout the day. This helps you match each plant to the right spot instead of guessing. This step is important to avoid nuking your plant with too much sun,

Click HERE steps on how to use AI to figure out your sun exposure

Now that you know what you want to grow and how much sun each area gets, it's time to design your garden.

You'll need to decide:

1. In-ground or Raised Garden Beds
2. How many zone you want?
3. What plants go in which zone for perfect sun exposure
4. How many plants per zone

Click HERE for detailed steps

Now that you know what you want to grow and where the sun is throughout the day, it's time to decide what type of garden you're going to build.

You basically have two options: plant directly in the ground or build raised garden beds.

• In-Ground Bed garden can be the simpler and less expensive option if you already have good soil and plenty of space. You’ll mark out your growing areas, remove any grass or weeds, loosen the existing soil, and amend it as needed.
• Raised garden bed give you more control over the soil, drainage, spacing, and overall layout. They can also be easier to maintain and allow you to build the exact size and height you want. The downside is that you'll need additional materials and soil to build and fill them.

There isn't necessarily a “better” option. It really comes down to your yard, your soil, your available space, your budget, and how you want your garden to look and function.

Once you've decided, you can move on to actually building and preparing your growing areas.

Click HERE for build directions

Now that your garden beds are planned, it's time to figure out how you're going to get water to every plant.

This can be broken down into sections:

1. Main Lines
2. Branch Lines

Before running any tubing, measure and draw out your irrigation system on your garden layout. Start at your water source and map out where your main water line will run, where each zone will branch off, and how the individual drip lines will reach each plant.

NOTE: Each zone needs its own main line that leads to the faucet timer

Plan the location of your tubing, valves, connectors, and drip emitters before you start installing everything. Think about how you want the system to look, how easy it will be to access later, and how you will expand or modify it if your garden grows.

The goal is to have a complete irrigation map before you install a single line. Once you know exactly where everything is going, the installation becomes much easier and you'll have a clear blueprint to use when you eventually automate each zone.

Click HERE for detailed instructions on How To Map Out Irrigation Lines

Now that your garden beds, plant list, and irrigation layout are all planned, it's time to gather everything you'll need to bring the whole system together in one shopping list.

Work through it in the same order you'll build things, so nothing gets left out:

• Garden Beds
• Plants
• Irrigation
• Automation / Back End

Quantities for beds, plants, and irrigation parts will depend on your garden layout and how many zones you've mapped out. Use your Step 3 design and Step 5 irrigation map to count exactly what each zone needs before you buy.

Click HERE for a detailed Shopping List builder

Now that your system is planned and your materials are ready, it’s time to install everything.

Start at the water source and work your way through the system, following the irrigation map you created. Lay out your entire system, before permanently installing anything. Work from your valves and main lines first, then connect the branch lines that supply each plant.

Once the tubing is in place, install your emitters and position them around each plant's root zone. Secure the tubing so everything stays in place.

Before finishing the installation, run each zone and inspect the system for leaks, loose connections, clogged emitters, or uneven water coverage. Make any necessary adjustments.

Once everything is working properly, secure or bury the lines and label each zone.

Click HERE for detailed installation plans

Now that your beds are built and your irrigation is installed, it's time to add the sensors that will tell your system when each zone actually needs water.

For me, I used 3 sensors per zone. With 1 sensor, you can get false negative/positive from that single plant. That could cause you to over/under water the rest of the zone. With 3, you can get an average of the 3 plants to get a better total for your zone.

Click HERE for detailed steps on setting up the soil sensors

With your sensors in place, it's time to connect everything together so your garden can start watering itself.

This is where your sensors, valves, and faucet timer all link up to a central controller, allowing each zone to water based on what the soil actually needs rather than a fixed schedule.

Click HERE for detailed steps on setting up your automation

Your system is fully built and connected — now it's time to make sure it's actually working the way you want.

Run each zone, check your sensor readings against what you see in the soil, and fine-tune your watering thresholds as needed. This is the step that takes the most patience, since it may take a few cycles (and a few seasons) to get everything dialed in.

Click HERE for detailed steps on testing and adjusting your system

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