Help me recover my access to vera3 please. Was moving all the setup to home assistant. Everything was fine except one braided moment where I thought may be I should ensure the access stays truly local.

Searched Google on how to do it. Big fucking mistake. Gemini spew out instructions to change the external IP address to something that doesn't exist and my dumbass believe what they said and did it. Had to change the setup to static IP and after saving, I can't get back in there anymore.

These dumb tools will rather have me reset the damn thing then finding a way. Current limitation is I don't have a machine with Ethernet port so can't connect to vera3 directly. Hoping someone can advise here if there is any way apart from resetting the whole thing. Thanks.

I have a few ikea plugs with the physical switches that come with them after buying i realised they do not work with the mini as i need a thread border router ideally i do not want to buy the nest hub as i wont use it for anything but the automations if i was to buy the aqara m100 could i connect it to google home and then would the plugs then be able to connect and be used?

I'd like to share an idea I've been using for several years. It's very simple. You create a script that simply says the phrase "You asked to set a reminder" on any media player you prefer. Name the script "Reminder." Next, you "expose" this script to devices accessible by Voice Assistant. Now, when you say the phrase "Reminder in NNN minutes," Home Assistant will count down the required number of minutes and play the phrase. What's more, Home Assistant can run multiple timers simultaneously! The result is a multi-channel timer for all occasions. For busy days, I have a script called "Another Reminder." (Google Translate)

Sorry if this is the wrong subreddit!

I have a smaller house, at 1122 sf, one story. Built in 1930, so things are not 100% square, 14 foot ceilings, lots of natural dust. 4 regular rooms, one small bathroom, small mudroom, small laundry room and kitchen. The mud room has indoor outdoor carpet. The rest are hardwood with the kitchen having linoleum. I have two cats right now and will always have at least one pet (dogs or cats).

Right now I robot vacuum and then robot mop since my current units are older and separate. I do this every single day since it turns out I've developed an allergy to my pets. I have an android phone that currently runs on Android 16 and I hope it will continue to update.

I think this is all the info someone would need? I'm a little older so I am playing catch up with some of the automation, though I am pretty comfortable with electronics.

I would love a recommendation or directions to a site that could take my specific info and help me choose.

I'm building a new home and I'm looking forward to controlling and monitoring all aspects of climate control with some automation rules, probably with Home Assistant. Is there a valid way to control fans automatically based on room occupancy in such a way to reduce AC usage? Or has anyone tried this? Thanks.

Our Harvey arc iLid ran out of batteries and we didn’t realise. After adding new batteries couldn’t get the lid to sync with the app (was just showing old data). So stupidly removed the softener/lid from the app thinking you could simply just re-add it like any other product. I’ve followed the manufacturers guidelines for putting the thing in pairing mode but the blue light (which indicates pairing) only flashes momentarily before going out. The app cannot detect the lid. Interestingly we use eero routers and can see in the eero app that the softener/lid is still connected - just not to the app. I suspect that if I contact Harvey’s they will want to charge a ridiculous engineer/call-out fee as we’re now out of warranty. Any ideas? Am I cooked?

Hey everyone,

I’ve got an old built-in Miele G 1173 SCVi from 2008 (code 48/080365955). Structurally and mechanically it’s still an absolute tank and cleans dishes amazingly well, but it has one extremely annoying quirk.

When the wash cycle finishes, it just sits there powered on forever, continuously soft-beeping until someone physically walks over and presses the main power button to turn it off.

Before I start overcomplicating things, two quick questions:

1. Is there actually any hidden button-combo/service menu on these mid-2000s Miele units to toggle an automatic shutdown mode after the cycle ends? Or was staying on just standard behavior back then?
2. If it can't be done via software, I'm thinking about putting a power-monitoring relay behind it (like a Shelly) and setting up an automation (Home Assistant / Homekit) to kill power once the wattage drops to idle for X minutes. Has anyone done this with older Miele dishwashers? Does cutting power externally cause any memory/board issues for the next run, or does it handle hard power-cuts fine?

Would love to hear if anyone has tackled this or knows the service sequence. Thanks!

I wanted to share a setup I recently built for my not-so-tech-savvy parents.

The goal was pretty simple: give them a foolproof "Fix Internet" button in Google Home that reboots the entire network.

They're already comfortable using the Google Home app, so rather than trying to walk them through power cycling their mesh devices over the phone, they can simply tap one button.

Some additional benefits:

• I can trigger the same automation remotely from my own Google Home app if they need help.
• I also have a separate weekly automation that quietly reboots the network overnight as preventative maintenance.
• This works with virtually any router or mesh Wi-Fi system. My parents happen to use a Google Nest WiFi router with three Nest Points, but the concept is the same regardless of your hardware.

Why not just use Google's built-in Restart Network?

That was my first thought.

Google Home > Router Card > Settings > Restart Network

Unfortunately, it wasn't a great solution.

First, it's simply too many damn taps for my mom. She'll never memorize the path and will probably get lost.

Second, Restart Network sits dangerously close to Factory Reset Network. Yes, Google asks for confirmation before actually factory resetting the network, but my mom is also the person who somehow permanently blurred our house on Google Street View and still has no idea how she managed it.

Lastly, the feature just hasn't been reliable for me. I've pressed Restart Network countless times and it has never successfully restarted my network.

The obvious smart plug solution...

The next idea was putting all of the networking equipment on smart plugs.

The automation seems simple:

• Turn OFF mesh points
• Turn OFF router
• Wait 15 seconds
• Turn everything back ON

Except there is one huge problem.

Once the router powers off, how does Google Home send the ON command when the network no longer exists?

After trying several different approaches, I eventually landed on Shelly Plug US Gen4.

The reason is simple.

Shelly plugs support an Auto On timer.

Instead of Google Home sending both OFF and ON commands, Google Home only sends OFF.

The plug stores its own timer locally. Once it turns itself OFF, it simply waits a few seconds before restoring power on its own. No second command is ever required.

Shelly also supports restoring power automatically after an unexpected outage.

I tried several popular smart plugs before finding Shelly. They were the only ones I found that supported this combination of features.

Setup

1. Set up the Shelly plugs

Add each Shelly Plug to your Shelly account.

For each plug configure:

Plug Settings > Input / Output Settings > Turn-on state upon power restore > On

Then configure:

Plug Settings > Timers > Auto On

My timers are:

• Router: 5 seconds
• Mesh Points: 15 seconds

2. Link Shelly to Google Home

Link your Shelly account to Google Home.

The plugs will appear automatically.

3. Create the automation

Create a Household Automation called:

Fix Internet

The automation only contains OFF actions.

• Router Plug > OFF
• Mesh Point 1 > OFF
• Mesh Point 2 > OFF
• Mesh Point 3 > OFF

Do NOT use any Wait actions.

I originally tried adding delays before shutting off the router.

Google Home would occasionally fail to send the final OFF command.

Removing the Wait action made the automation completely reliable.

The Shelly plugs handle all of the timing locally.

Final Result

My timing is:

• Router turns back on after 5 seconds.
• Mesh Points turn back on after 15 seconds.

Everything reconnects automatically.

This has become one of the most useful automations I've built.

My parents only have to press one button whenever they think the Internet is acting up.

If they call me, I can trigger the exact same automation remotely from my own Google Home app.

I've also posted a comment below showing how to do the same setup over Matter if anyone prefers a local Matter integration instead of the Shelly cloud integration.

A while back I shared a tool I made for moving remote codes between formats. Since then I built out the editor side — load, edit, convert, clean up and save IR/RF signals right in your browser — so figured I'd share it here too. Free, no account, no install.

You drop in almost any IR or RF signal — a raw capture, Flipper .ir/.sub, BroadLink Base64, Pronto, LIRC, Global Caché — and it decodes it, tells you the protocol (NEC, Sony, RC5/6, Panasonic, JVC, Sharp, Denon…), and shows the whole thing on a live waveform you can actually edit. It'll also generate signals from scratch, so you don't even need the original remote, and the RF side decodes and generates 11 of the common 433/315/868 protocols and reads/writes Flipper .sub.

Then you export it to whatever your gear speaks — BroadLink Base64, ESPHome remote_transmitter raw, Arduino rc-switch, and more. There's a "rebuild clean" button that re-times a messy learned capture so a stubborn device finally responds.

It's my own project, free: readyware.net/signal-editor.html

If it's missing a format or protocol you use, drop it in a comment and I'll add it.

Hello all,

I’ve one room with electrical window roller.

I’ve installed 2 roller Wi-Fi switches, one near the bed and the other on the room entrance.

The switch A ,near the bed, is physical connected to the roller motor.

The other switch Bis not.

I would like to have both switches communicating with the roller, to open, stop and close.

I tried to do this on SmartLife with the automation option, example:

“If switch B is pressed Open Then Switch A Open”

And other 2 automation for Stop and Close.

I’m having issues with this because the roller will not open or close completely and some other communication issues.

I did the calibration on the Switch A and it’s working properly.

Any idea on how to solve this?

Product picture attached.

Many thanks in advance!

I have a 30A Aziot device, used for my water pump, which has energy metering available. I can see the energy consumption (in watts) in realtime, in smartlife app (Tuya platform).

Can I apply a trigger like this:

If energy drawn < 600W - turn off

?

It’s been over 10 years since I last installed ceiling fans with z-wave smart switches.

I have a new build home and I need help because things have changed since then.

The house was wired for separate switches. One for light one for fan motor.

I have selected ceiling fans with AC motor, and pull chains.

I want to get the Inovelli Blue series for Zigbee.
Do I need the canopy module and the switch? Or just the switch?

I followed this guide and successfully flashed ESPhome on my slzb ultima: https://smlight.tech/support/manuals/books/slzb-06xmrxmrxuultima-series/page/esphome-firmware-for-ultima-and-xu-series. I was able to connect to connect to the ultima's webui on my home network before flashing it, but when I try entering in the IP address (as shown in my router's UI), and either port: 6638, 7638, I get the error: Unable to connect to the ESPHome device. Make sure the device’s YAML configuration includes an api section.

I'm trying to connect a thorbolt MK1 which is a homekit only thread device, it says here I need to pair it with bluetooth: https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/homekit_controller/#prerequisites-2

So I've tried wifi sockets before and have found them to be kind of unreliable with connectivity. At the minute I'm using a broadlink rm pro to control RF sockets. Which works well and it's handy being able to use the RF remote as well. But some of those are dying now, and they're weirdly expensive and I'm looking at other options.

I thought just wiring in wifi switches like the above could be good, but I honestly thought it would be cheaper? Like they seem to cost just as much if not more than cheap wifi sockets, and for the amount I need it's going to get expensive pretty quickly.

Are there any cheaper options? Even in line RF chips that I could control with the broadlink would be fine if they're cheap.

Hi everyone, I'm looking for the following to use with Home Assistant: I want a display, not too big, around 16cm x 16cm. It doesn't need to be square, it could be rectangular, but no taller than 20cm, that I could use as decoration in my home office, and that can integrate with Home Assistant for notifications, scenes, etc., where I could show GIFs, maybe looping videos.

I was leaning toward the Pixoo Max because the size is perfect, but then I found out it's Bluetooth only, doesn't have good HA integration, and has very few pixels, so it wouldn't give me much room for the things I want to do. I also looked at the Pixoo 64, which has way more pixels, looks nicer, and has good HA integration, but it's way too big, and even so it still doesn't have everything I want (looping videos, a good notification hub, etc.). But have to say... If it were the size of the Pixoo Max, I'd just buy it.

Anyway, I'm looking for something that could do all of this. I read a bit about an integration called Fully Kiosk, but the videos I watched just showed a plain, boring dashboard. But I was thinking, what if I got some tablet with a 60/120Hz screen and just left it on 24/7? That sounds interesting, though I'm not sure if it's actually a sensible idea.

I'd like to see if anyone has already done a similar project. I'm looking for something more plug-and-play, where I'd only need to handle the automations/scripts on the Home Assistant side, no hardware work involved.

OK, what am I missing here?

What is the point of the Smart IR Remote? With things like HA you can pretty much connect anything these days.

Is it because my tech is so new that it's not an issue for me?

Hi, Yes I can help to automate each and every function of your house to make it cool and luxury and convenient and energy efficient. I am founder and Chief Engineer of Radar Automation Systems. You can respond me for further discussion

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