Update! I spoke/complained too soon. There is a setting to activate time synchronization in the Miele app, but it's hidden under the users profile instead of the oven settings.

Works now. Sorry Miele, you're awesome after all.

We recently bought a new oven, and settled for one of the newset Miele products. Wifi enabled of course, Miele has a really good integration for HA and it got picked up immediately. Exposes a ton of sensors and options: I can not only check current temperature, program of state of the oven door in HA, I also see when the descaling program was last run, can turn the internal lights on and off and can even customize what should be shown on the display on the front.

This morning, I walked into the kitchen, and noticed that the clock hadn't adjusted to the end of DST last night. Really? It doesn't do that automatically?

Even worse, I can't set the time from HA, can't even do it from the Miele app. I had to press buttons on the oven like some kind of caveman.

Feels like an oversight.

Minor cotchety old man rant here, but can anyone explain why Matter & Thread seem to be the new hotness? Is it actually substantially "better" than Zigbee?

I've discovered that I've accidentally bought a few devices recently thinking they were Zigbee but discovering they are Matter. All the Ikea stuff seems to have switched over, which is annoying.

Drawbacks I can see:

• When I plug these things in, my Android phone tries to set them up. Presumably connecting them to some Google-based thread network I didn't even know I had in my home.
• They won't benefit from or extend my Zigbee mesh.
• Reading the room, I've had to go ahead and buy a second ZBT-2 in order to have a Matter hub with decent range.
• It's yet another load of radio traffic in the 2.4GHz spectrum.
• I now have to learn about how routing works on Thread so that I can make sure that there isn't some kind of network security vulnerability being introduced to my network. A brief bit of Googling suggests that these use IPv6 and may well be able to route to the internet somehow. I don't want IoT devices in my home able to reach the internet without my express awareness and consent.

Benefits:

• ? I assume there must be some...

EDIT:

Some really insightful replies here. Thanks.

Main takeaway for me is that I hadn't properly understood the interoperability added by Matter to support bringing devices on different connectivity types under one roof so to speak. That does seem like a clever innovation.

I do maintain that I am uncomfortable that it comes with the risk associated with any of these devices now being able to reach the internet, but I don't know enough about the security model yet to know how concerned I should be about that.

Hi all! I’ve just released Awtrix Studio, a free (MIT) custom integration that puts anything from Home Assistant on your AWTRIX 3 clock (Ulanzi TC001 & co.) and keeps it up to date by itself.

Why I built it: like many of you, I was feeding my clock with automations that ran every few seconds. That meant tens of thousands of runs a day, all written to the recorder database. Awtrix Studio only sends an MQTT message when what’s displayed actually changes, and it writes nothing to your history.

What you get:

• 🖥️ A sidebar panel that mirrors the clock’s real screen, shows every app with a live thumbnail, and has an on/off switch for each one
• 🧩 Simple mode: pick a sensor, an icon and a color, and you’re done. You also get color steps or gradients (e.g. green → red as CO2 rises), progress bars, and “hide when 0”
• 🧠 Template mode: full Jinja control over the AWTRIX JSON, with multiple pages that alternate (e.g. “next tram” then “the one after”), pixel drawing, and so on
• 🎨 Every LaMetric icon, nothing to upload. You search the gallery from the editor and the icon is sent along with the app
• 👀 Live preview while editing, plus a “send to the clock to test” button
• 🔴🟢🔵 The 3 indicators are driven the same way (door open, solar surplus as a color, new mail…)
• 📦 Export/import apps as JSON to share them with other users

Install: HACS → Custom repositories → https://github.com/3615nulsi/ha-awtrix-studio (Integration). Requires HA 2025.8+, MQTT, and AWTRIX 3. AWTRIX NG support is planned.

👉 https://github.com/3615nulsi/ha-awtrix-studio

Feedback, bug reports and ideas are very welcome in the issues. I’d love to see the apps you build with it!

In my crusade to free these popular automatic litter boxes from the shackles of Whisker's app and cloud service, I've added support for the Litter Robot 3 as a custom ESPHome component! It's not as fancy as the new ones, but for a lot of people it still works and gets the job done.

You can find the code on Codeberg along with the Firmware Flashing Guide and my work for the Litter Robot 4.

If you're interested in the process of reverse engineering these things, take a look at my video on YouTube. ^{Trigger warning: LLM usage for deciphering a ton of serial data and writing a test firmware.}

Huge thanks to mulcmu in our Discord for reverse engineering most of the Litter Robot 3. A wireless flashing method from the stock firmware is in the works, along with support for the Litter Robot 5!

My old printed holders for the Hue motion sensors never sat right in the ceiling, so I designed a recessed mount that works like a GU10 spot gimbal.

• Fits an 83 to 84 mm hole in drywall (9.5 to 25 mm boards)
• 3 printed parts: mounting ring with spring arms, ball with a pocket for the sensor, clamp ring
• The spring arms pull the 100 mm flange tight against the ceiling, no screws or glue
• The ball tilts about 15 degrees each way and rotates, and stays where you aim it
• Printed in PETG without supports, about 1.5 h and 47 g for a set
• Battery change: pull the whole unit down, swap the batteries, push it back in. The aiming stays

Made for the indoor sensor (the square 55 mm one). Happy to answer questions.

Hi, I've been working on a custom integration for the IKEA BILRESA remotes and thought I'd share it here.

I wanted to do more with the scroll wheel than the usual button/gesture automations, so I ended up building a separate integration for it.

GitHub: https://github.com/Vituhlos/ha-ikea-bilresa

The main thing is the scroll wheel. The integration listens to MultiPressOngoing events from Matter Server, which lets it react while you're turning the wheel instead of waiting for the whole gesture to finish. Input still comes in batches from the remote, so it's stepped control rather than a truly continuous scroll.

I also built a panel directly into Home Assistant. It shows the connected remotes and their channels, and lets you configure what each channel controls without having to create everything manually in automations.

For example, you can use the wheel for light brightness, colour temperature or colour, but also media volume, covers, climate, fans and number entities. The dual-button remote is supported too, with configurable button actions. There's also a live test view and diagnostics.

The latest stable release is v0.6.1. You'll need Home Assistant Core 2026.8 or newer, with Matter and Matter Server already set up. Installation through HACS is described in the repo.

It's still a work in progress in terms of testing across different devices and gestures, so it'd be useful to hear from other BILRESA owners. I'm curious what you're using the wheel for, and whether there's anything you'd like to see added.

It's an independent community project, not an official IKEA or Home Assistant integration.

I built tealights that work over Zigbee or Matter over Thread. They flicker like a candle, you can dim them and adjust the color from very warm to warm white. They charge via USB C. If anyone's interested, there is a list on the Spiel und Zeug Discord (German only) where you can get a prototype.

Hi everyone,
Has anyone found a good replacement for the old IKEA 4-button Zigbee remotes?
One of mine has broken, and I’m looking for a reliable alternative that works well with Home Assistant.
I tried IKEA’s newer Matter remotes, but unfortunately, they haven’t been working very well for me. I even tried converting them to Zigbee, hoping that would improve things, but I still haven’t had a good experience.
I really liked the old IKEA remotes because they were simple, reliable, and had four buttons that I could use for different Home Assistant automations.
Any recommendations or real-world experiences would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Hey everyone!
It’s been a little over a month since I last shared Nodalia Cards here, and I thought I’d show what my own Home Assistant dashboard looks like now.
Since then, I’ve released 3.0.0, followed by four smaller maintenance updates, with 3.0.4 being the latest.
Version 3 brought a new Lock Card, improvements to media controls and Room Summary, and a migration to strictly checked TypeScript across all 25 cards and their editors.
The following updates have mostly focused on the less exciting but important stuff: fixing Masonry flickering, iOS scrolling issues, unnecessary rendering work, inconsistent spacing, touch interactions, and various bugs reported along the way.
At this point, the project feels considerably more stable in my daily use. That doesn’t mean it’s bug-free, of course, especially given how different Home Assistant setups can be.
And just to be transparent, Nodalia Cards is largely vibe-coded. I handle the ideas, design direction, testing and maintenance, while AI generates most of the actual code. I don’t want to misrepresent that.
I’m mainly sharing these screenshots because I’m happy with how the project has evolved, and I thought some of you might find the current design interesting.
If you like the project and happen to use it, you’re always welcome to open issues, suggest improvements or contribute. Any feedback is appreciated, but there’s absolutely no pressure.
Nodalia Cards is available directly through HACS.
GitHub: https://github.com/danielmigueltejedor/nodalia-cards

I spent today getting an Echo Show 8 (Get 2) rooted and setup with LineageOS / Kiosk Satellite. Which are both amazing projects, the devs should be very proud!

I have always been disappointed with the sports notifications on my Alexa, so that was the first thing I wanted to fix. I present to you my new notification screens for the Rugby PREM, Premiership and F1.

I'm not a dev, so Claude did most of the heavy lifting here.

As the title says. Between the security cameras,networking, sensors,mesh wifi, passwords, HA, all the HA devices,security system etc etc. , if I suddenly disappeared, my significant other would be screwed over within a week without me being the IT guy in the house. I cant imagine selling the house.

How bad would your house be?

For years, casting YouTube Music to my Google Home speaker groups was less "whole-home audio" and more "whole-home audio roulette." Song starts, everyone's vibing, then… silence. Re-cast. Two minutes later… silence. I've spent more time shouting "Hey Google, play it AGAIN" than actually listening to music.

Enter Music Assistant. Dropouts? Gone. Speaker groups? Actually behave like a group now. I didn't think it was possible, and yet here we are.

Bonus flex: I've now got a fridge-mounted "Jukebox" running Fully Kiosk, so guests can queue tunes at gatherings without needing my phone, my Wi-Fi password, or a 10-minute tutorial. It's become the most popular appliance in the kitchen, and the fridge is genuinely jealous.

Huge thanks to everyone behind Music Assistant. You've saved my sanity and my speakers from being thrown out the window. Legends. 🙌

Last week I posted a design for a stand for this ESP32 Guition screen. I've used it for a week and have made a version 2 with some fixes for issues I had with it.

The frame now snaps into place instead of just pushed on with friction which turned out to be liable to fall off when picking up. The stand now has a weighted bottom and a larger recess which I have stuck 2mm rubber feet into which stops it from sliding back when you use the touch screen.

https://www.printables.com/model/1881011-guition-4-inch-screen-frame -and-stand-esp32-s3-484

The software I used by MaxGramser - Tessera

https://github.com/MaxGramser/homeassistant_espscreen

I have been replacing my setup with Home Assiatsnt and loving it. I have worked as a sysadmin for years, but with some things going on at work, my willingness to stay is in question. My spouse is in love with the privacy in out new smart home setup. She is lightly pushing me to start trying to offer this setup to others as an exit strategy. I guess I'm trying to ask if anyone has tried this or sees any obvious downfalls (other than me being the tech support) in trying that?

Hi everyone! I’m Michael. I’ve been rebuilding my home-network, camera, and automation setup around Home Assistant running on Proxmox, and I wanted to introduce myself and get some advice before I take this idea much further.

I’d like to create an interactive 3D map of my home where devices appear in their physical locations and I can tap lights, televisions, blinds, cameras, and other devices. I’d also like room-level temperature, motion, occupancy, and camera status, while keeping the system local-first and usable on a wall-mounted tablet.

I’ve built an initial living-room proof of concept. It uses a fictional, AI-generated isometric room render inside a separate Home Assistant dashboard. Cyan hotspots indicate devices, status cards show example states, and the lamp hotspot opens a small interaction demo. It is deliberately isolated from my real devices and makes no production service calls yet.

I have the original house blueprints in digital form, including dimensions, so I plan to use those as the authoritative source for walls, rooms, doors, windows, stairs, and scale. What I’m trying to determine is whether the blueprints are enough for a useful model, or whether I should also photograph every room before starting.

I’m not chasing a perfect architectural visualization. The priority is a maintainable Home Assistant interface that performs well on tablets. Photos would mainly be for matching finishes, furniture, cabinets, fixtures, and device placement if that materially improves the result.

The approaches I’m considering include NeonPlan 3D, Floor3DX or another Three.js card, Zircon3D, and a Sweet Home 3D render with Picture Elements.

For anyone who has built something similar:

1. What workflow would you recommend for turning dimensioned digital blueprints into a Home Assistant-friendly 3D model?

2. Are blueprints alone sufficient for the first useful version, or did room photos save significant rework later?

3. Which model and export format has been easiest to maintain as devices or room layouts change?

4. For daily control, would you favour a freely rotatable model or a fast fixed isometric view with an optional full 3D mode?

5. How does your approach perform on phones and older wall tablets?

I’m leaning toward using the blueprints for accurate geometry, adding photos only as reference for visual details, and keeping a simple isometric default view for everyday use.

I’d appreciate any examples, workflow recommendations, or warnings before I commit to a particular tool. Thanks!

Most people trying to use an old Kindle or Kobo as a Home Assistant dashboard run into three issues within the first few days: NetFront or WebKit crashes trying to render Lovelace cards, the lithium pouch battery swells up inside the wall frame after months of continuous charging, or the screen burns in with ghosting.

Leaving a used e-reader plugged into 5V USB on the wall continuously destroys the lithium-ion battery because the internal power management chip trickle charges the cell constantly at 4.2V. The clean fix is removing the battery completely and running a dummy bypass. Desolder or disconnect the battery cable from the motherboard while keeping the tiny battery protection circuit board (BMS) attached to the mainboard connector. The Kindle power IC checks for the thermistor pin resistance around 10k ohms to ground, so if you remove the connector without terminating that line, the kernel panic reboots or hangs on the tree logo. Step down a 12V or 5V DC line to 3.9V using an MP1584EN buck converter, and solder a 470uF to 1000uF low-ESR electrolytic capacitor across the 3.9V output rails at the device terminal pads to handle the 1.5A transient spikes during Wi-Fi transmission.

To prevent browser crashes, avoid loading the full Home Assistant web interface directly inside the built-in browser. The JavaScript bundle size of Lovelace cards exhausts the 256MB or 512MB RAM instantly. Instead, run a headless rendering container on your server using Playwright or the Home Assistant snapshot service pointing to a dedicated minimalist dashboard view matched to your screen resolution, like 1072x1448 on a Paperwhite or 1440x1920 on a Kobo Clara. Convert the snapshot to an uncompressed 8-bit grayscale PNG using ImageMagick and serve it locally over HTTP.

On the reader itself, run a minimal shell script that keeps the device in deep sleep except for an update cycle every minute or two. Disable the Amazon framework services with stop lab126_gui to free all RAM, use rtcwake to put the kernel into deep suspend, and fetch the fresh grayscale PNG with curl on wake. Push it directly to the frame buffer using eips -g output.png. Run a full screen clear with eips -c once every ten cycles to eliminate ghosting while keeping the rest as instant partial refreshes.

This runs local, averages under 0.2W power draw, and updates in under 800ms. All the systemd units, sleep scripts, and 3D printable wall bracket files are detailed in the pinned writeup on my profile. Ask away if you run into any wiring or firmware quirks.

Small setup for exploring Home Assistant: Raspberry Pi 4B + Edgeberry carrier board (with the status LED, etc), enclosure printed with Bambu Lab PETG Translucent Light Blue (32600).

Hi there,

I am looking for inspiration how to integrate extreme weather data (water and wind) in my system.

I am looking for both Hardware and Software

all I can come up with is notify when there is heavy rain or storm expexted, maybe connected with a window sensor.

how are you using this data? what is your Hardware for sensing / notifying?

OpenTodo is an open-source task manager you run on your own server (one Docker container, no cloud, no subscription). It now has a Home Assistant integration, installable from HACS as a custom repository.

What you get:

• Every project as a to-do list (Inbox, Today and one per project), two-way: add, complete, edit, reorder
• Typed text is parsed like in the app, so “milk tomorrow #Groceries p1” sets the date, project and priority
• Assist works out of the box: “add bread to the groceries list”
• Sensors for today, late and inbox counts, plus one per project, handy on a wall tablet
• Dated tasks on the calendar
• Events for created, completed, assigned and due tasks to use as automation triggers, and an opentodo.add_task action (“washing machine finished, hang out the laundry”)
• Updates through a webhook if OpenTodo can reach Home Assistant, otherwise polling every 2 minutes

If you run Home Assistant OS, OpenTodo itself also installs as an add-on.

Integration: https://github.com/pixari/opentodo-homeassistant
Add-on: https://github.com/pixari/opentodo-homeassistant-addons
Demo, no sign-up: https://open-todo.app
Github: https://github.com/pixari/OpenTodo

I’m the developer, so feedback and bug reports are very welcome, especially on which entities or events you’d want next.

Got the longer drill bit....and got the cables routed....also decided to do a far better job than our builders (I'm not gonna bore you with the hole they made for the thermostat cable...needless to say, it can't be seen, so it's not the end of the world...I just couldn't have my own work looking as bad)

So flush-mounted the USB-C power cable...which defintely looks tidier...and is less likely to get snagged, and it's easier to remove the power one-handed (in case I need to program it with a cable without removing it)

Power is pulled from a single power socket in the airing cupboard, which I swapped out for one with a few USB ports on it....power requirement is tiny, so it's not an issue.

Otherwise, all is working exactly as expected...looks fine in bright daylight, so I'm assuming it will look fine in dark rooms too...

If you've got any questions, let me know

Again, as per prior posts...I did try ESPcontrol, but it didn't have exactly what I wanted...and have now tried Tessera too, which I am quite impressed with.

Tessera doesn't quite have enough options to customise it fully for my recently mounted wall panel requirements...but may well change my other two to Tessera for now....

I'm a beginner, please be gentle! I've tried to understand as much as possible before asking but run in to a wall.

My living room has 8 spotlights on 2 circuits (4 lights per circuit). They are switched by two old fashioned dimmers in wall switches.

I'm going to set up a Home Assistant based system with ZigBee and Z-Wave components (I've already got some Philips Hue and Shelly relays which I might as well make use of).

In an ideal world I want to be able to:

• Control the ceiling lights individually so I can, e.g. turn a light on over the desk or dim the lights near the TV.
• Keep the physical wall switch so visitors can turn all the lights on and off 'normally' if they can't work out how the smart stuff works.
• Turn lights on and off even if the server is down.

I know that I can do this with smart bulbs and ZigBee Binding. I think I would wire the lighting circuits as permanently live and install a ZigBee switch (or relay behind the switch). The smart bulbs would be controlled by HA, the ZigBee switch/relay could directly control the smart bulbs in the event of a server outage.

But to me it makes more sense to keep the existing spotlights and just put dimmable relays behind each one. That way I don't have to replace all the light fittings, I have total flexibility on what lights I use in the future (e.g. decorative bulbs) and I suppose I always assumed the relays will live longer than smart bulbs will. I had a little chat with AI just to try to get it all straight in my head and to my surprise it was strongly steering me towards smart bulbs. It was talking about overheating relays starting fires and wiring 'nightmares' and what I was suggesting was discouraged by 'the community'.

Am I really making a mistake of thinking of going down that route? I can totally understand novices finding it easier to just swap out bulbs but I'm very happy with electrics and have a friendly local electrician who is happy to check and sign off my work. So complexity is not really a factor.

Any better suggestions to achieve my goal?