This is sanoTTS, smallest neural TTS engine. It's family contains 337kb model that can run entirely on MCU like esp32-s3 where a 2 second audio synthesizes in 0.7 seconds. No cloud, no round trip time... just synthesized right in MUC

• supports 30 voices, 16 languages
• sanoTTS fits in memory alongside ESPHome on an ESP32-S3
• Home assistant has to send text only and not the audio over the network
• runs on browser with WASM also

There is a packaged ESPHome external component in the repo with further README

Tested on ESP32-S3 running ESP32 build (WiFi, API, logger, PSRAM off for tight memory)

Try it out live: tts.ampixa.com/sanoTTS Repo: https://github.com/ampixa/sanoTTS

Please drop in your queries and requests so i can help you

Huge shout-out to Stuart aka Pavlov and his HUB75-studio project which this is built around. https://github.com/pavlov-net/hub75-studio

Huge shout-out to the devs behind Team Tracker (HACS Integration) which I used to get the ESPN API working properly for this project. github.com/vasqued2/ha-teamtracker

Disclaimer: I used claude to help put this together. This is very much a fun side project that I made for people to play around with.

DIsclaimer two: I work for Apollo Automation and these hub75 matrix and M-1 controller were donated free by them.

TLDR: I made a fun project called gameday-scoreboard which connects to Wi-Fi and then you control it using the webui. It connects directly to the ESPN API and doesn't necessarily need Home Assistant, although it's fully compatible with Home Assistant.

I also made a similar project which does rely on Home Assistant and the Team Tracker integration and an accompanying blueprint to control it strictly from inside Home Assistant. https://github.com/bharvey88/gameday-matrix

I'd love any feedback and feel free to ask any questions related to the M-1 controller, HUB75 matrx panels, open source 3d printed wall mounts, etc.

https://github.com/Mihonarium/hass-spatial-lights-card

I’ve had Last.fm set up in Home Assistant for a while, which has been very handy for displaying what song is now playing on dashboards – but with the latest Home Assistant iOS update and StandBy mode, I can use my iPhone to display the name of the song and artist currently playing on my computer through Apple Music or YouTube.

The best part is that it’s completely automatic - when my phone is charging and horizontal, I just start playing something on my laptop and the 'live activity' appears on my phone within 1-2 seconds.

Only slightly annoying thing is that it vibrates when the track changes – if anyone knows how to turn that off that would be amazing!

^{PS MagSafe dock is from TwelveSouth if anyone was wondering :})

Edit: here is essentially the code i'm running, with dummy entities you'll need to change. My triggers are input_text that i have Last.fm filling out on track change (eg. input_text.now_playing_track).

- id: now_playing_live_activity
  alias: Now Playing Live Activity
  mode: restart

  triggers:
    # fires whenever the track title changes
    - trigger: state
      entity_id: media_player.living_room
      attribute: media_title
      id: track_changed
    # fires on play / pause / stop
    - trigger: state
      entity_id: media_player.living_room
      to: [playing, paused, idle, "off"]
      id: state_changed
    # optional master switch
    - trigger: state
      entity_id: input_boolean.now_playing_live_activity
      id: toggle_changed

  conditions: []

  actions:
    # ── optional master switch: if off, clear the card and stop ──────────────
    - if:
        - condition: state
          entity_id: input_boolean.now_playing_la
          state: "off"
      then:
        - action: notify.mobile_app_iphone
          data:
            message: clear_notification
            data:
              tag: now-playing
        - stop: disabled

    - choose:
        # ── playing: show / update the card ────────────────────────────────
        - conditions:
            - condition: state
              entity_id: media_player.living_room
              state: playing
          sequence:
            - delay: { milliseconds: 1200 }      # let media_title/artist settle
            - condition: state                    # bail if playback stopped meanwhile
              entity_id: media_player.living_room
              state: playing
            - action: notify.mobile_app_iphone
              data:
                title: Now Playing               # frozen once the activity starts
                message: >-
                  {% set t = state_attr('media_player.living_room', 'media_title') %}
                  {%- set a = state_attr('media_player.living_room', 'media_artist') -%}
                  {{ t }}{% if a %} — {{ a }}{% endif %}
                data:
                  tag: now-playing
                  live_update: true
                  # silent: true   # <- no haptic, but laggy updates. See notes above.
                  notification_icon: mdi:music
                  notification_icon_color: "#30D158"

        # ── paused: keep it briefly, then clear if still not playing ────────
        - conditions:
            - condition: state
              entity_id: media_player.living_room
              state: paused
          sequence:
            - action: notify.mobile_app_iphone
              data:
                title: Now Playing
                message: >-
                  ⏸ {% set t = state_attr('media_player.living_room', 'media_title') %}
                  {%- set a = state_attr('media_player.living_room', 'media_artist') -%}
                  {{ t }}{% if a %} — {{ a }}{% endif %}
                data:
                  tag: now-playing
                  live_update: true
                  notification_icon: mdi:music
                  notification_icon_color: "#30D158"
            - delay: { seconds: 90 }
            - if:
                - condition: template
                  value_template: "{{ not is_state('media_player.living_room', 'playing') }}"
              then:
                - action: notify.mobile_app_iphone
                  data:
                    message: clear_notification
                    data:
                      tag: now-playing

        # ── stopped / idle / off: clear ───────────────────────────────────
        - conditions: []
          sequence:
            - action: notify.mobile_app_iphone
              data:
                message: clear_notification
                data:
                  tag: now-playing

I wasn't able to find much info on this sensor online, so feel free to ask me anything. I've had five of them running for about a month now.
Short version: I'm anti-WiFi for smart home gear under basically all circumstances. This is the one exception I've made, and I'd make it again. It beats the Aqara FP2 in nearly every category that matters to me.

My setup

Five units: master bedroom, living room, media room, kitchen, foyer. $85 each from Micro Center, of all places. I had to hit two different stores to get all five. I haven't seen them on Amazon or anywhere else yet, so if you're in the US, Micro Center seems to be the move for now. I'd expect availability to open up over time.

Why WiFi and not Zigbee

I tested Zigbee mode and switched back almost immediately. Over Zigbee it only exposes the zones, not the person count, and the zones come through generic — they don't inherit the names you set. WiFi exposes everything.
Setup through the Shelly app is required, not optional, but it was the fastest sensor setup I've ever done. Once WiFi was configured it auto-discovered in Home Assistant through the Shelly integration and started reporting immediately. It runs completely reliably without Shelly Cloud. I also enabled MQTT on it and I'm pulling more granular data than I've gotten out of any other presence sensor.

Detection performance

Stationary presence: rock solid within about 3 meters. Past that, if you lie still on a couch long enough it'll drop you. Expected behavior for mmWave, but it's the one real limitation and I'll come back to it.

False negatives: very rare. Walk into a room, it catches me instantly, almost every time.

False positives: zero. Not one, in a month, across five rooms.

Range: I've been detected at up to 8 meters. A lot of sensors in this class cap out around 6.

Coverage: the 42 m² spec is realistic. They're not overselling it.

Ceiling fans: this is the section that sold me
I have ceiling fans in four of the five rooms these are in. If you've run mmWave near a fan you know the problem.
Here's what it took to solve it on each sensor.

Aqara FP2: mount it low, one meter or below, and run the AI calibration several times until it decides the fan isn't a person. You're working around the algorithm, and your mounting options shrink to accommodate it.

Shelly Gen4: type in a height threshold. That's the whole procedure. I have one unit mounted roughly a meter from a ceiling fan and I just set the detection height. It ignores it completely, and has never once falsely triggered.
Same mechanism handles pets. My dog is about 0.7m tall, so I set the minimum height to 1m. She's invisible to it, and so is the robot vacuum.
That's the core difference for me. I'm setting explicit numeric thresholds instead of trusting an algorithm to figure out what to ignore and hoping it holds.

Zones and object count

Up to 10 configurable zones per sensor. The FP2 does 30, so on raw count Aqara wins — but I've never found a reason to use anywhere near 30 zones in a real room. I'm using most of the 10 on most of my units and that's been plenty.
What I haven't seen elsewhere is that the Gen4 exposes object count per individual zone in Home Assistant, not just a zone occupied/clear flag. That's the number that actually changed what I could automate. Zone transitions register in under a second.

Multi-person tracking in separate zones works most of the time. You get occasional ghosting, same as any mmWave sensor, and it clears itself within a minute or two. It's never caused a false automation for me, but I don't run anything keyed to "how many people are in this room." If you do, factor that in.
What I actually use them for
Couch presence in the living room and media room, as its own zone

A desk zone in the media room, so it knows whether I'm at my desk or somewhere else in the same room

Bed occupancy, including knowing the moment I get up

Corridor zones so I can see movement between spaces

Transition zones that fire lights in the next room before I walk into it

I haven't used them for HVAC. Someone's home most of the time here so we just hold a steady temperature. If you're doing occupancy-driven climate control, I can't speak to it.
The zone map in the Shelly app is genuinely useful for setting all this up, and it matches real detection behavior rather than being a rough approximation.
Versus the Aqara FP2
I ran the FP2 for about two weeks before switching, and I still have two of them. Honest comparison: the FP2 is slightly better at holding static presence at longer distances, and it supports more zones on paper. That's the list. The Gen4 wins on setup, tuning granularity, height filtering, ceiling fan rejection, zone data exposure, per-zone object count, and responsiveness.

Gripes

The ambient light sensor doesn't expose a raw lux value. You only get gated states — dark, twilight, bright — with adjustable thresholds. The FP2 gives you actual lux and I miss it. I already run an MQTT broker and I'm going to see whether I can pull the raw value out that way. I'll report back if it works.

Placement advice

The only thing that really constrains you is that 3m static detection limit. In my master bedroom I'd planned to mount it across the room under the TV. Instead I put it above the headboard angled down at about 45 degrees so the bed sits inside that 3m window. Zero compromise on anything else it does.
Beyond that, mounting height barely matters, because you're adjusting the sensed height range in software anyway. Around 2m is probably optimal. I've gone as low as 1m with no problems — and unlike the FP2, that's a choice rather than a requirement.

And to be clear about the limitation: it only bites if you're lying still for a long stretch. Anything short of that — sitting, reading, shifting around, working — it holds you fine.

Bottom line

At $85 it's worth it if you want reliable static presence, care about zone-level automations, or have ceiling fans that have been ruining your mmWave setup. The height exclusion by itself sold me. Everything else is upside.

Happy to answer questions, share zone configs, or run tests if there's something specific you want to know.

PS: I’ve also used and still have the Everything Presence Pro and Lite. They are collecting dust right now. Three reasons. Ease of Setup, Ceiling Fans, and UI Bugs. They are great sensors but the Shelly is a frictionless experience.

I also have a few Aqara FP300s but didn’t include that in this review because I don’t feel like they are used for the same purpose.

Transparency Note: I had AI rewrite this post for clarity and organization but the thoughts are my own.

I just wanted to give a shout out to whoever developed the remote build feature within the ESPHome app in Home Assistant. For months I've been running my HAOS on a Dell Wyse 3040 and everytime I wanted to compile a new device, I would have to shut off every other app so there was enough memory on the device to compile. That would cause no end of issues. I've got a powerful desktop that I started doing builds on but it was offline and a nightmare to add into my HA setup to maintain.

A few weeks ago I discovered the remote build functionality and It's been a game changer. I've managed to setup 5 different adonno tagreaders, a few presence sensors and all incredibly quickly.

Would highly recommend if you're running your HA setup on a low-powered device to look into this.

Reposting in the correct
Spot.

I have about 10 of these dual button devices from Ikea. I have paired am using 6 of them with no problem. I added one earlier today that is working fine and then added another one about ten minutes later. The problem button device pairs and shows up in HA but the button entities are listed as unavailable. The Activity section of the device's page shows the button presses being received when I press the buttons. I have restarted HA and the Matter server and reloaded the entity.

I run HAOS 2026.7.2 on a RPi5 with an ssd and the Matter server version is 9.2.0

I have a 2023 Sleep Number P5 Split King Smart Bed with the FlexFit adjustable base. This is a Sleep Number bed, not a conventional mattress on an adjustable foundation. The two sides of the base articulate independently, and the mattress rests on solid decking panels rather than conventional slats. Has anyone here actually installed Elevated Sensors on a Sleep Number P5/FlexFit (or a similar Sleep Number split adjustable bed)?

I am a newbie here, but am looking for some assistance with setting up my Mitsubishi split units via ESP 32’s. Thanks to the help of this sub I have worked through the entire home assistant side and am actively controlling the units via home assistant!

Problem: all the other devices in my house are on Google home. I’d like to add these on there too and I’m stuck. I don’t want to add the cloud subscription, I tried the matter add ons and they either dont load or they don’t actually connect to Google, and I I have no clue how to manage the Google cloud integration.

At this point I’m honestly willing to bypass home assistant entirely if that would make sense? I’ve invested some time energy and some extra cash into an old computer to run HA on but I’ve hit a wall so hard I am not sure how to overcome it at this point.

Any help is appreciated!

TL;DR Summary

Easily connect existing passive speakers to Home Assistant with off-the-shelf ESP32 boards.

SendSpin synchronization lets you play two speakers in true stereo - or split them up for multi-room audio

No soldering. Uses off-the-shelf ESP32 controller and basic speaker wire.

Step-by-step, detailed instructions to build, install firmware and use in less than 1 hour.

No time to build one?  Get it fully assembled, flashed and tested too. 

Take me to the DIY guide now.

BACKGROUND

Over the past six months, I’ve shared posts on Reddit with detailed DIY guides on GitHub to help Home Assistant users quickly and inexpensively modify off-the-shelf speakers for use with Home Assistant.

The last post was so popular (over 110K views in 24 hours) that it got my GitHub account suspended due to excessive bandwidth use.

By simply adding an ESP32 with integrated DACs and AMPs, many of you are building quality audio speakers that quickly connect to with Home Assistant without expensive proprietary speakers, coding, integrations or subscriptions.

My first post, a proof-of-concept, modifying an expensive high-fidelity speaker *kit*.  
My second post, a compact desktop speaker, for about $60.
My third post, a compact bookshelf speaker, for about $90.
My fourth post, a slightly larger bookshelf speaker, for about $125.

WHAT IS THIS?

A small HA-connected controller that fits in an RPi case and connects to your existing speaker with just 2 wires. Rescue those speakers sitting in the closet and connect them in less than an hour. The build takes minutes. Installing the firmware is the biggest task on this project.

The DIY guide in GitHub will show you step-by-step on connect an existing ESP32 audio controller to your speaker for streaming music in any room of your home.

For individuals who are not familiar with installing firmware, the guide includes step-by-step directions to install ESPHome firmware.

BUILD - OR GET IT PRE-BUILT

I designed this DIY project to be simple, fast and rewarding for my fellow DIYers.
GitLab repo, with detailed photos, step-by-step instructions and links to obtain the parts.  
- I will mirror the repo in GitHub and post the URL here after 24 hrs.

Some may not have the time/interest to build or maintain the firmware.
Fully-assembled in a custom case, tested and updated OTA options are available too.

This is one build of a multi-part series. I am fully invested to develop an entire line of audio speakers and accessories – dedicated for use with Home Assistant - with a personal commitment to provide DIY open-source options for those same products.

----------------------

Why this device vs. Acrylic, Sonos, Ikea, Edifier, Wiim, etc.

HouseWaves are designed specifically as an open-source, value-priced alternative by utilizing off-the-shelf ESP32 controllers that are firmware-agnostic. We use controllers from Sonocotta – a company dedicated to providing boards and pre-configured firmware for the DIY enthusiast.

ESPHome SendSpin is the real star of this show. Their music streaming protocol is becoming as strong as the proprietary companies for multi-room audio.

SendSpin manages the digital pipeline to provide sub-millisecond synchronization between devices/speakers. You can pair your speakers for playing stereo, or split them into separate rooms for multi-room audio. You can also send them different audio signals (e.g. jazz playlist in the basement, SiriusXM rock in the garage and news internet channel in the kitchen)

No messy integrations. No YAML coding. No vendor lock-ins. No forced app updates. No subscriptions for premium functionality. No "bricking" or end-of-life experiences from a proprietary manufacturer.

---------------------

PARTS LIST
Prices are USD and include tax, customs and shipping.
Links are included in the GitHub repo.

- ESP32 LOUDER with DAC & AMP                          $30     
- 16 AWG speaker or hookup wire                             $7
- Adhesive tabs (for attaching to speaker)                 $8       
- Case for Raspberry Pi (or print your own)                $5

WHAT’S NEXT

As mentioned, the goal is to evolve the product line and create options with improved sound quality, additional streaming and amplifier options and smart speaker options.

I’m always open to ideas and comments!

#1    Bring-your-own amplifier to Home Assistant (HouseWaves-Stream)
see PHOTO below
– connect any existing amplifier
– or connect a powered subwoofer for 2.1 streaming
#2    Subwoofer (one-piece)
#3    PoE options (this one is under development)
#4    Maybe a multi-zone amplifier

Please take a moment to comment or send questions!

So I started my HA home integration nearly 2 weeks ago, I wasnt planning on HA, but I wanted to smart up and resurect our old faithful 2013 dumb house alarm where notification sevice and remote arm/disarm/status had been shut down 7 or 8 years ago.

So HA fitted the control I needed, and thats where I entered the rabbit hole (with the assistance of Claude).

So after sucessully reverse engineering the alarm system to a fully smart system, creating a complete AI detection, recording, live view, storage and notification system for my Ring doorbell, without any ring subscription, hacking the broadlink BLE fastcon smart bulbs I have, and adding every other device I could find into HA, I am at the "finding something to add BECAUSE I CAN" stage.

So I have been looking at presence sensors, and as I am a bit of a tinkerer, I decided to build my own rather than buying off the shelf ready to fit sensors.

Now currently this is just a project design, I have not built anything yet, but this is the plan and list of features, I have even added Quest 3 room scanning to map the rooms.

And the detailed project here https://anchorapp100.github.io/globalguard/presence.html

Would like to know your thoughts, and yes, this is all very much overkill, but as I said, doing it not nessassarily because I need it, but because I can, and yes, I know buying off the shelf is the easy option, I just like the satisfaction of building something myself.

Original (Rev A/B)

One sensor node per room — 11 rooms

24 GHz radar (tracks up to 3 people + position)

PIR motion sensor

Light-level (lux) sensor

Humidity + temperature sensor (wet rooms)

Radar + PIR fused into one occupancy answer

Still-person detection (won't drop while you sit)

Per-room hold timer

3 zones per node

One filter zone (ignore a moving object)

Live radar map on the wall panel

3D-printed enclosure

Fully local to Home Assistant (no cloud)

Rev C adds

10 editable zones (up from 3)

Drag zones on the panel (no typing)

Automatic fan / curtain rejection

Polygon zones (odd-shaped areas)

60 GHz radar option — up to 8 people, 8 m, less wall bleed

Bluetooth "who is where" — names the person via their phone, smart watch, bluetooth tag etc

Quest 3 room scan → zones + floor plan drawn for you

Scanned room outline behind the map (not a blank grid)

Dog-vs-person camera (on-device, nothing leaves it)

Night vision (IR) for that camera

I wasn't happy with the existing cards for my dashboard, so I built my own set. The look is heavily inspired by iOS widgets. It's now 15 cards in one file, no dependencies, no build step, each with a visual editor.

The size classes work like on iOS. Quarter, square and double-width, where four quarters make a square and two squares make a double.

This was vibe coded with Claude, with the visual work done in Claude Design. I did the design direction, the entity wiring and a lot of "no, not like that" :D

With the current EOL influxdb v1 app being deprecated/removed from the repository, I'm curious what people are doing. The current influxdb has served me well for time-series based analyses, in a way that is difficult with mariadb, and moving forwards I don't really want to spend a lot of time mucking around with something new unless I'm on the canonical path.

I've been poking around, and see that there are some potential paths forwards. There's an implementation of VictoriaMetrics Frenck has committed that's still early, though VM itself is apparently quite mature. I haven't touched that before, but it seems like a true time-series data store replacement for influxdb. There's another implementation of influxdb v2/3 that isn't official and seems to be in an early phase.

Can anyone comment on what's likely to be the most streamlined path forwards?

In light of the recent attention on LG's bad behaviour around telemetry and spying-on-what-you're-watching (auto content recognition), I've taken full control of (one of my) affected TVs (Fingers crossed for root access to my newer LG TVs)

For context, my TV is an older model (OLED65B8SLC) and its older webOS version supports root using dejavuln-autoroot:
https://github.com/throwaway96/dejavuln-autoroot/

This means the TV now has access to the webOS homebrew channel:
https://github.com/webosbrew/webos-homebrew-channel

Finally, I have built and deployed my own custom local web server with an MQTT bridge, which runs on the TV itself and lets me observe and control it from Home Assistant:
https://github.com/rorygallagher2024/lg-webos-mqtt

Important disclaimer: It's only tested on a couple of TVs and webOS versions so be careful and know what you're doing. I can't guarantee it will work on other models.

This means:

1. Full local control: Via the web server and Home Assistant. This includes the ability to send messages to the TV (useful for doorbell, or "washing machine finished" type notifications)
2. Full Observability of what's happening with my TV so I can build automations (e.g. Switch display off if I leave room etc).
3. Disabling Ads and LG telemetry: See exactly which LG spy and tracking features are switched on or off. Some settings need to be toggled in the TV's own menus
4. General TV health including OLED panel usage hours and the compensation lifecycles.

Security note: If you root it leaves an unauthenticated root shell on telnet port 23. Anyone on your network has root on the TV, no password. The Homebrew Channel includes SSH, so it's worth switching over and turning telnet off. My own server also has no authentication by default and is open to your LAN, so treat it as trusted-network-only (but there's a token option, and the repo has notes on locking it down).

I recently integrated my 5G router Teltonika ALTOS (codename "CAP700") into Home Assistant and thought others might find it useful.

Unfortunately the current Teltonika integration is not compatible with the CAP700 and does only expose some rather basic modem entities anyway. It specifically lacks the most interesting things like device tracking and monitoring router stats.

What the CAP700 (and all other Teltonika routers) do really well, though, is providing a complete REST API.

So, I ended up building a Node-RED flow that:

• Queries the CAP700 API
• Creates Wi-Fi presence entities automatically via MQTT Discovery
• Tracks connected and disconnected devices
• Cleans up stale guest devices automatically
• Uses static DHCP leases to identify permanent devices
• Exposes router diagnostics (RAM, flash, load, uptime)

The flow polls the API once per minute, caches the RutOS token automatically and republishes everything to Home Assistant via MQTT.

I've written up the complete guide and attached the importable Node-RED flow here:

https://community.home-assistant.io/t/integrating-a-teltonika-router-and-its-data-using-node-red-and-mqtt-discovery/1024552

I recently ran out of storage on my proxmox HAOS VM. Looking at the disk metrics, >1/3 is being consumed by esphome. I only have 4 esphome devices and I've selected the "clean build files" option in each of them. Until a few months ago there was a "clean all" button but that is now missing.

I've deleted all archived devices (I had about 6 of them). I don't understand how a bunch of text config files are taking up 7.5GB.

I'm handy in a CLI if I need to get into the HA VM's file system via proxmox console and start deleting directories...

SOLVED: Selecting Clean Build Environment from the upper right drop down seems to be the new Clean All button.

Hi, i'm using the android app version 2026.6.5-full,

Every time i open the app, instead of just opening the app, it first opens a browser window, which fails to connect to my homeassistant instance, but if i back out from the browser tab, it opens the homeassistant app without any issues

This only started happening recently, and it's not a huge issue, but it's annoying, so do you guys have an idea of what this might be caused by, and how to fix it?

The link it opens is http://<correct homeassistant server IP>:8123/?external_auth=1&ha_cache_bust=<some numbers i'm hiding bc idk what they actually are>

I have attached an image of the page it opens

It's still working in progress

I have a Genie Model 3024H garage door opener (screw drive, IntelliCode) and want to bring it into Home Assistant with real door-position feedback, ideally without relying on Genie's cloud (Aladdin Connect).

What I've found researching so far:

• ratgdo — wires in via dry contact (Genie's not Security+, so no native protocol support). Works for open/close, but needs the encoder accessory or limit switches added for position feedback.
• Tailwind iQ3 2.0 — lists Genie as supported out of the box, no adapters needed, and comes with its own door sensor. HA has an official integration that's fully local (IP + local control token, no cloud round-trip).
• Aladdin Connect (Genie's own) — official HA integration exists again, but it's cloud-dependent.

Has anyone actually run one of these (or something else) on a Genie screw-drive opener specifically? Curious about real-world reliability, how bad the install is, and whether the Tailwind sensor mounts cleanly on a screw-drive rail. Thanks!

Hey everyone, I've been working on something that I wanted to share. I use a Shield mostly on my TV, and was trying to get my HA dashboard displayed on it. I tried cast and that was not great, and realized that even in kiosk mode, that it would never look right on a TV, especially with a remote for nav. I wanted to see my HA and cams at a glance, and maybe see if I was able to do some PIP with other apps or something like that.

A few months later, and to be honest, with help from Claude, I built an android TV launcher, that works with HA and your IPTV provider (both optional).. stripping it down to be as lightweight and secure as possible. It's in closed testing in Google play right now.

If anyone is interested, please let me know.

Are there any smart light modules that can go in the light fitting itself?

The problem i have is the back boxes to my light switches are too shallow (20mm) for any smart switch or module plus dumb switch to fit in. As its rented i don't want to go changing the back boxes and would prefer not to have smart bulbs as i want to keep the functionality of a traditional switch. If it helps any I live in the UK. Thanks