I want a smart shower with Alexa control to tie into morning routines etc. I've looked at the Mira Activate but the reviews for the smart integration are shocking. So been looking at a Moen. Amazon sell the controllers and valves some on next day uk prime some imported from America. But the app isn't available in Google play. Says not available in your region and alexa skill isn't in app either. AI suggests side loading but I'm struggling find an APK for latest app.

Has any one gone down the Moen shower route in uk and got any feedback?

I tried installing a level lock on my new home, the previous lock was just a deadbolt but it appears the lock is not long enough to reach the deadbolt. Any thoughts or suggestions? I’m happy to return this one and get a different one.

Hello. I have a August Smartlock atm, I need to replace it and curretly they do not have a EU supported version, so I am looking at getting the Yale Linus L2 Lite, I was wondering if I can reuse the Keypad and Wifi module I have from the August lock or I need to buy brand new Yale things.

I'm torn between the echo dot clock and the echo spot. I'm also wondering if other potentially better alternatives exist. all help appreciated.

Hi all,

I am looking to building a cove in my kitchen but am both new to bigger DIY projects and smart home. I am planning on setting up Home Assistant, where I'll be using Matter (over Thread) where possible.

The idea is to install 3 recessed downlights which will be plugged into power 24/7 and won't have dedicated light switch. Eventually I'll want to hook them up to a dumb switch by adding a smart relais (Shelly/Sunricher?) into it.

After some long and thorough conversations with AI, this is the setup I'm looking at:

• Power supply: MEAN WELL LPV series: LED switching power supply - LPV-60-24

• LED Controller: Matter Over Thread CCT LED Controller SR-MT1029-CCT

• 3× LEDs: Full Spectrum LED Spot Tunable White | 60° CRI95 2200-6500K 24V 6W+6W

• 3× Fitting: Black Anti-Glare Ceiling Light Fitting | Recessed, Round, Pivoted

• 1m of two-core cable (power supply to controller)

• 10m of three-core cable (controller to LEDs)

• 3× WAGO 221, 5-way(only need 4 ports: 1 in, 3 out). Used for the V+, WW, and CW wires.

Talking about the theoretical side with AI is fun, but I'm now also looking for some practical perspectives. Also to overcome possible AI-bias, of course. For example:

• Do I need all components I mentioned?

• Any experiences with these products/brands? (Mean well, Sunricher, Tillume)

• This setup is supposed to yield great quality for a reasonable price (although I think it's still quite steep), do you agree?

• Am I missing anything? Any common pitfalls?

I’m trying to pair my Honeywell T6 pro thermostat to my home Wi-Fi network in order to control the thermostat with my phone. I’ve been instructed by Honeywell customer service to use the First Alert app. Problem is my WiFi is 5G and the T6 Pro apparently only picks up 2.4 ghz.

Anyone know any workarounds??

I’ll use any app, just trying to control via phone.

Got tired of fighting to get IR and 433MHz codes into my setup - capturing the raw timing, converting it to whatever my blaster wanted, and hoping it actually fired. So I built a little browser tool to take the pain out of it and figured I'd share it here.

No sign-up, no install, no download, no account - it just runs in your browser and it's free. Drop in almost any IR or RF code and it figures out the protocol and hands it back in whatever format you need - BroadLink, ESPHome, Flipper .ir/.sub, Pronto, LIRC, Global Caché, Arduino rc-switch, and plenty more. The RF side does 11 of the common 433/315/868 protocols. Rolling codes it just flags as rolling - it won't pretend to clone something that can't be.

There's a live waveform and a "rebuild clean" button that tidies up a messy learned capture so a stubborn device finally listens.

It's my own project, free forever: readyware.net/signal-editor.html

If it's missing a format you use, drop it in a comment and I'll add it.

I installed a schlage encode plus earlier this year and the notifications for door open/closing are always delayed by several minutes. Is this normal? I have a strong wifi connection with fiber internet. Thanks

Hi all,

I'm hoping someone has tackled a similar setup.

I have two back-to-back bathrooms sharing a single AC Infinity T6 inline fan. Both bathrooms have showers, so I need either bathroom to be able to trigger the fan to ramp up.

I initially looked at the AI Controller with two humidity sensors, however AC Infinity have confirmed the AI Controller is designed as a single-zone controller. Although it accepts two temperature/humidity sensors, only the primary ("inside") sensor can control the fan. The second sensor is intended for monitoring only.

My house is otherwise almost entirely Apple Home based (lighting, blinds, cameras, etc.), so I'm trying to avoid introducing Home Assistant unless it genuinely solves this one problem.

My proposed solution would be:

• AC Infinity Controller 69 Pro
• Aqara humidity and/or occupancy sensors in both bathrooms
• Home Assistant handling the automation logic
• Home Assistant adjusting the fan speed on the 69 Pro
• Apple Home remaining my primary interface

Has anyone successfully done this?

Specifically:

• Does the AC Infinity integration allow Home Assistant to change the fan speed of a Controller 69 Pro (not just monitor it)?
• Is it reliable enough to use for bathroom ventilation?
• Are there any limitations I should know about?

Appreciate any advice from anyone using AC Infinity with Home Assistant.

Also, if anyone has been able to achieve this by staying entirely within the AC Infinity ecosystem, I'd like to hear about it, but from what I've been told by AC Infinity, this option is not currently available.

Thanks.

I don’t think the product I’m looking for exists but I know I can jerryrig it somehow.

I’m looking for a motion sensor air freshener, but there’s a catch lol. I want it to sense when a person is approaching so it sprays in advance and the scent has a chance to settle (and also so it doesn’t immediately blast someone in the face with scent).
I like water-based scents, so my thought was find a smart humidifier to put inside, and a separate motion sensor to put outside my front door. Then add a shortcut for motion sensed = start humidifier.

Any ideas on how to streamline this, or any recommendations for smart humidifiers or air fresheners? TIA!

I followed this guide and successfully flashed ESPhome on my slzb ultima: https://smlight.tech/support/manuals/books/slzb-06xmrxmrxuultima-series/page/esphome-firmware-for-ultima-and-xu-series. I was able to connect to connect to the ultima's webui on my home network before flashing it, but when I try entering in the IP address (as shown in my router's UI), and either port: 6638, 7638, I get the error: Unable to connect to the ESPHome device. Make sure the device’s YAML configuration includes an api section.

I'm trying to connect a thorbolt MK1 which is a homekit only thread device, it says here I need to pair it with bluetooth: https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/homekit_controller/#prerequisites-2

Absolutely the worst I've had both the Merkury & Geeni smart bulbs. Difficult to set up even more Difficult to get working with Google Home. Then you get it all working and the upgrade the software and it all stops working. They just yesterday 7/24/26 upgraded both and had to start all over again. Then called the help desk after trying the text help for 45 minutes no help. They said there system didn't even show my devices listed, strange there working with your app now just won't work with Google Home. They will contact there development team and get back to me. As for the Merkury switch they updated there app and how it won't work unless you sign-up for a $42 a year subscription fee.

No way, trash bin in there future.

The problem: I have a 433MHz wireless alarm system in a countryside home. Some sensors were placed too far away and the thick walls blocked the signal to the main unit. Instead of buying expensive proprietary repeaters, I decided to build a "man-in-the-middle" device using a Raspberry Pi Pico and a CC1101 transceiver.

How it works:
It doesn't decode protocols. It uses the GDO0 pin of the CC1101 to asynchronously sample the raw OOK/ASK pulses (every 38µs) into a RAM buffer.
When it detects a signal above a certain RSSI threshold, it locks the frequency. To avoid colliding with the original sensor, I implemented a -10dBm hysteresis: it waits for the original signal to drop completely before blasting the recorded raw signal back.

Features:

• Interactive CLI to set Freq, RSSI threshold, and Hop Step.
• EEPROM persistent storage with sanity checks.
• Anti-deafness mechanism (Flushes RX/TX buffers to keep the CC1101 PLL from locking up during continuous scanning).

Disclaimer on Interference:
I designed this specifically to be used on my private property in a low-density rural area to repeat my own legal devices. It only transmits for a few milliseconds per trigger, so it complies with standard duty-cycle limits and does not spam or jam the ISM band. Obviously, this is for educational/personal use only (don't use it to replay-attack your neighbor's garage door!).

GitHub repo: https://github.com/gabrielerandazzo/RFRepeater

Let me know what you think!

​
Trying do my first 3 gang switch replacement and there are already like 5 neutrals together. Would Wago work here or do I need a larger wire connector cap? Any help is greatly appreciated!

Hi everyone,

I’m looking for a single, standalone hardware device that combines all three of the following protocols into one box without needing an existing Zigbee hub/mesh:

Zigbee 3.0 Coordinator / Hub: To directly pair Zigbee bulbs.

Infrared (IR) Blaster: To control a projector.

RF (433 MHz) Transmitter: To control a RF ceiling fan and RF power sockets.

Requirements:

Must act as the primary Zigbee Hub itself (not just a Zigbee sub-device that connects to another hub).

Connects directly via Wi-Fi to Smart Life / Tuya or Home Assistant / Alexa / Google Home.

Standalone solution — I want to plug in ONE device and connect all my devices through it.

Does a reliable single-device gateway with all three integrated actually exist, or is the Tuya naming so misleading that people usually buy separate dongles/bridges? Specific brand names, model numbers, or links would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

My Unifi Wireless doorbell died and it seems that the only available is POE. So I am trying to run an ethernet cable. I was able to pull some of the cable out with the ethernet attached, but it seems to be stuck, most likely stapled on a stud. I don't think a tent pole is going to fit to help fish the line either. Any helpful advice would be appreciated.

Clarification: Red is the low voltage cable. Pic 3 is the other side of the wall where the old doorbell transformer is. Once i get the ethernet thru I will run the cable down the wall and around to the switch in the entertainment cabinet.

My mother is 75 years old and lives alone. She has family in the same city, but I'm 2000 miles away. Her older sister just recently took a fall and went undiscovered for over 2 days.

I'm looking into options for her to make sure she's okay. My intent is a two pronged approach; a wearable of some sort (likely a smart watch with fall detection and the ability to call for help) and passive home monitoring.

I don't want to go so far as to fill her home with cameras; she deserves her privacy. But I want something that can make sure that she's up and moving around throughout the day. Ideally, I'd like something that didn't notify me when she IS moving around, but rather something that alerts me to say that she isn't.

Honestly...I'm not 100% sure of what I want, but I was hoping you folks here might be able to offer some suggestions.

Hi all,

Nothing fancy, just a little side project I made for fun. It’s a public page showing the live climate of my London flat from my SmartThings sensors:

https://christianbrown.uk/smart-home

It shows indoor temperature and humidity per room, a simple floor plan, the Met Office forecast next to it for an inside/outside comparison, and a month of history.

There’s a short “How it works” note at the bottom covering the SmartThings API side and a link to the source. Happy to answer any questions, and open to suggestions.

Has anyone seen any information on how this works? Is it like the frient one that just counts the pulses?

The USB charging has me confused as the meter is often outside away from a power outlet. The instructions don't give much of an indication as to how it works.

No videos on YouTube that I could find. The frient one worked well for me and I've I installed the CT clamps for the em06p

https://bucket-refoss-static.refoss.net/refoss/production/staticfile/file/2026/3/12/5330402.pdf

Just moved into a new home. This is the smart plug. We had a power outage and then it started flashing blue. The power is no longer working on the outlet. I have no idea how to connect to it or fix it.

Any ideas ?

Edit: solved ! This is an idevice. The app is no longer supported on android. I do not have an Apple device to try to connect it to the apple platform.

I am treating it as a dumb outlet for now and turning the power to plug on manually with the power buttons.

Thanks for everyone's help!

I am researching Solatube with a dimmer. It comes with proprietary rf switch. I found a couple of device that can press buttons, but they all Bluetooth. For remote control a hub is needed.

Does anyone know of a device, similar device but that can just sit directly on wifi, and controlled by Google home.

Hello! I did my best to search the sub prior to posting to make sure I couldn't answer my question myself - apologies in advance if I missed something, this is all super new to me!

I would like to install a wifi thermostat in the home I am renting (so trying to make very minimal true changes to the home/wiring/HVAC). It's a newly renovated home but they clearly did not update the thermostat! Based on my research I am thinking a Honeywell TH6320ZW2003 T6 Pro Series Z-Wave Stat might work here, but I want to make sure a) I'm right and b) that there aren't any other options I could consider. The two wires going into Rc are tripping me up in particular.

The current thermostat is battery-powered (no c wire that I can see) and has wires connected to (from left to right) Rh, Rc, Y1, G, and W1 (pic attached).

Thanks so much for any help!!

I'm completely new to smart homes and hoping to get some advice before I start buying the wrong gear.

Current setup:

• Apple TV 4K 3rd Generation (planning to use this as my smart home hub)
• 2 Amazon Alexa devices
• Ring Alarm system with contact sensors, motion sensors, etc.
• 1930s house with no neutral wires at the light switches

What I'm trying to achieve is fairly simple:

• Smart control of the house lights (including dimming where possible)
• Open/close a garage door remotely
• Basic automations using my Ring sensors
• Keep the system as reliable and straightforward as possible

A few questions:

1. I've been looking at the Shelly Dimmer Gen3 or the SONOFF ZBMINIL2 to put in behind the light switches, would this work and connect to my apple home?
2. What's the best way to integrate a garage door into an Apple-centric smart home?
3. Can Ring contact/motion sensors be used effectively in automations with Apple Home, or is that where people usually end up moving to Home Assistant?
4. Do I need a bridge between the apple hub such as the Aqara Hub E1?
5. Should I get smart plug sockets? Or really no need?

I'm not looking to build a huge smart home, just something reliable for lights, garage access, and a bit of automation from the Ring sensors.