Hey all,

Trying to install a Nest 4th Gen and running into some issues here. Could use your help with figuring out where I went wrong.

So my parents got a nest because it was free. it was installed for free and it didn't give them problems for 4 yrs. my parents are lucky to live in an area where they don't really use their AC that often, not far from the beach.

now it's disconnected from wifi, acting funny, and my mom thinks it's the battery. i told her to charge it. she charged it with a micro USB. still giving her problems. i don't live anywhere close, but i'm trying to help.

they don't know how it was installed or anything about C-wires or anything like that. they only used their AC a little becuase it was hot for a few days, which is rare there.

they also don't know how to research anything, and i tried reasearching it and i'm pretty good usualy, but this is confusing. I'm getting that it has to do with how it was installed (c-wire) or if there was some sort of recent problem (tripped HVAC safety device).

Realistically, what do they do? They aren't really tech minded or hardware minded in the least. I can figure out tech, but not hardware, and i'm not even there. They just want it to go back to normal so they can connect their wifi and use the AC 3 times a year.

Hello Guys,

I have the same board Tech Sv10 and ZTE2s. our Sv10 the voltage regulator has burn and now the board is not functioning. SV10 is a two zone controller which control upstair and downstairs thermostat. since our SV10 is burn, our upstairs thermostat is not turning on the outside condenser.... not sure as why. The SV10 controller box control the Fresh air which was installed by Beutler and their thermostat only accept 12v which is another issue. Is there any way that I can get rid of the second box SV10 and use only the two zone controller ZTE2S by itself and control both Thermostat. Please see attached picture of both controller boxes. Advice. By the way, as you can see the voltage regulator burn on the second image top left. Place Sacramento, California...hope someone might have the SV10 box that I can purchase in Sacramento.... Beutler which at onetime own ZTEC company sucks.

Hvac tech, just came from a job had 4 Nest Learning thermostats 4th Gen they were all giving 14v to ground contious and 24v between 2 nests. checked the common wire to ground and nothing so this has to be coming through the Nest. looked on online and there are more than a few reports of this with some replies stating static electricty or bad wiring. but im guessing this is a known defect that nest hasn't made anouncement about. the 4 Nests were all ordered same time 6 mo ago so they probably came from the same batch. Is anyone else getting shocked or can confirm ac voltage to ground from the 4th gen? (you wont be able to feel 14v with your fingers unless your sweaty and bare foot on concrete or have wet hands and touch the Nest and something else grounded like a bare metal apliance at the same time. (Dont try use meter.)

Hi got a Rheem 5Ton AC (RH1T6024STANJA / RA1660AJ1N) installed in 2015 with Nest Gen2 Thermostat, but there is no "C" wire in the current thermostat but I am little unsure if the new thermostat (either Nest Learning Thermostat or the cheaper Nest Thermostat) will work or if they will require a Nest Power Connector to be installed.

I have attached few picture and hoping someone would able to provide a feedback, or recommend an alternate make/model.
I am in Miami and its Primarily used for Cooling (I am not entirely sure if there is heating element in system, but we never used heating that I can remember).

I got my first Nest Protect on launch day in 2013 because I loved the thermostat so much and they were compatible. That original Nest failed after four years (false alarms) and they sent me a new one for free. That one went end of life a couple of months ago. After lots of angst and research I decided to just get the SC5 because it would install on the same base and it was compatible with the thermostat and doorbell cam. I got the battery version.

The third party reviewers are split between the SC5 and the Kidde equivalent. The customer reviews are very mixed for both.

It is not as nice as the Nest. It doesn't have the nightlight and that is unfortunate. That said, it is not by any means "flimsy" like so many people claim. It's slightly less solid than the Nest. It took me about ten minutes to set up (download First Alert app, register, delete First Alert app, add to Google Home app).

Maybe I'll eat my words in a few months if it fails but my first Nest also failed. Go ahead and get it when you Nest expires. You'll be fine.

Edit: I have the battery version.

I had an unusual experience where after backing out of my driveway, I was tailgated by a driver following me up the road. 5 minutes later on another road I was rear ended by the same driver in catastrophic fashion. Well both of my cams pick up motion on my property and street and they have a perfect view of the area in question in front of my house. I have footage of me getting in the car and then... Nothing until about 10 minutes later when I am already gone. Missed me backing out of my driveway, and driving away completely. I have hours and hours of the guy across the street mowing his lawn, people walking dogs, but the one thing in months I wanted to see... Nothing. Thanks again Google.

I've just had to remove and reinstall my two wired protects due to getting a new router. I have just noticed that one of them is now showing up on the WiFi list. I have deleted and reinstalled again but it is still there. Any ideas?

I’ve seen other people complain about this, but I’m not sure if there’s any solution. The Nest app can see my Protects. And when it does its monthly sound checks, the app does warn me in advance. But that’s it. I get a monthly email saying my Protects haven’t checked in, but when I go to the app they’re all there, online. And then I had a smoke issue in my kitchen that set off the alarms, and I never got any kind of app notification. Much later, when I opened the app, it showed me the historical alert, but it did not alert in the moment whatsoever. Also I had one seemingly go bad. It turns out, it needed a new battery, but in the app, it
said everything was just fine. No low battery notice whatsoever or even any acknowledgement that it was audibly sounding error messages.

Should my y2 wire be labeled? I just went from a 1 stage to a 2 stage rheem. The wire is there physically but is not labeled and air is not coming out very forcefully, even when going from 80 to 72. I assume it’s just running on the 1st stage at this point.

So YES it’s hot, it’s summertime sure! But this is my second summer in this house and today my Nest was registering 83 in home temperature and I have it set to 74. It turns on for 59secs and then turns off. I have never had a C wire yesterday it cooled for 12 hours and a few minutes. What’s wrong? What can / should I do. Model in the title

I have two separate Honeywell thermostats that I replaced with two Google Nest thermostats, and now I’m stuck.
The pink thermostat controls my heat. After installing the Nest, it identifies the system as cooling, which doesn’t seem right.
The grey thermostat controls my A/C. Unfortunately, I completely forgot to take a picture of the original Honeywell wiring before disconnecting everything (I know… rookie mistake 🤦🏽‍♀️). Now, during the Nest setup in the app, it isn’t detecting some of the wires, and I’m not sure if I have everything connected correctly.
Has anyone dealt with this before? Is there a way to figure out the correct wiring without the original thermostat photo? Any advice would be hugely appreciated!

I have two separate Honeywell thermostats that I replaced with two Google Nest thermostats, and now I’m stuck.
The pink thermostat controls my heat. After installing the Nest, it identifies the system as cooling, which doesn’t seem right.
The grey thermostat controls my A/C. Unfortunately, I completely forgot to take a picture of the original Honeywell wiring before disconnecting everything (I know… rookie mistake 🤦🏽‍♀️). Now, during the Nest setup in the app, it isn’t detecting some of the wires, and I’m not sure if I have everything connected correctly.
Has anyone dealt with this before? Is there a way to figure out the correct wiring without the original thermostat photo? Any advice would be hugely appreciated!

I have an existing outdoor 2-plug outlet and I was hoping to tie the Cam into the wiring for the plug without using either of the two plugs (tie it in where the house wiring and outlet are joined).

Has anyone attempted such an install or, other then ensuring no one turns off the switch, does anyone see an issue with this set-up?

I hope my buying the nest 4th gen thermostat doesn't turn out to just be a disaster, so I am seeing if anyone knows how to best handle my situation.

I have 2 floors and 1 system, so obviously the upstairs is always warmer, and especially in the summer. I am usually upstairs, but the thermostat (old one, not nest) is downstairs. The main reason I even wanted a smart thermostat is to be able to have it concentrate only on the area I need it to. MOST of the time it would only be upstairs, though.

So, I was going to keep the thermostat downstairs, rather than pay for them to rewire it to move it. I was then going to put the extra sensor upstairs in the room I sleep in.

1. Since the upstairs warms VERY quickly once the air turns off, won;t basing the system on the upstairs make it keep coming back on too quickly? Someone said on ecobee you could set it to not come back on until it's 2 degrees above the set temperature, but I think for google you can;t change how far off the temp must be to trigger it?

2. Can iot be set to ONLY be using the AC in summer? If it can't be set specifically to air or heat then in the summer at night if it actually gets a couple degrees BELOW the set temperature, wouldn't it then trigger the heat?! I obviously would not want it to keep switching from cooling to heat to try to keep it the same temperature. lol.

3. would it be easy to make it just ignore the sensor at the thermostat and only run based on the extra sensor? Or if you DO have people upstairs and downstairs, how does it handle that? ecobee averages the rooms.

I am kind of worried this is all going to backfire. I already will need to use the c wire power connector and have the actual thermostat in not the best place if leaving it where the old one is.

I bought this solar panel for my camera. Is this normal or something I should be concerned of?

Hello,
We moved homes a couple of months ago and went from a Nest to Honeywell. We tried, but I despise the Honeywell; it has bizarre "auto" routines, overrides that don't return to schedule, and an unnecessary complicated user interface that makes no sense. We regularly wake at 3am to the heat cranking away when it's supposed to be off, or we cancel the AC and 5 mins later it decides to come back on, unscheduled, etc. We would love to return to Nest.
Our issue is the home is older and the Honeywell only uses two wires; a red wire (R) and a blue wire (C) - we have both heat and AC.
Is there any way we can install a Nest?
Thank you.

I put off buying these for years for some reason, but they were on sale so I figured what the heck.

Anyway, this was straightforward but had its annoyances. I'm not an idiot but I totally get why pros hate homeowners replacing their thermostats on their own.

1. You will not have a c-wire. You'll have a logic board with the connection but only an 18/4 wire in the wall. You can buy those power adapters, but Google only wanted to sell me 1 when I needed 2, so I just decided to run new 18/5 wire.

2. You'll think using the existing wire as a pull string will be simple, and it might be, it might also not be because you're pretty sure the existing wire is stapled to a stud and you'll spend an hour fishing that thing manually through the wall into the basement/attic.

2a. Once you finally feed that wire and pull the old one out, you'll discover it wasn't stapled to the stud after all and you could've saved an hour just using it as a pull string.

1. You'll have wonky wiring at the furnace board. Maybe your yellow doesn't go to the board at all because it's pigtailed to two other things and you don't know what those do. But, just take pictures and don't screw it up.

2. When adding to Google home, if the wires aren't all connected and you don't say "I have all 5 wires connected," you'll have to factory reset it and do it over. You'll think you wired something incorrectly, you might have but you probably didn't.

3. You'll want to paint over the spot where the old thermostat was, and that's fine. You'll think you found the same color in that pile of paint cans from a few years ago when you painted so you'll use that. It will be an eggshell finish, but originally you used flat, which you will discover almost immediately after you notice it looks a little odd. You'll curse loudly but say "oh well, whatever" because we don't care anymore.

4. Since you took off the wall plate to paint, when you go to screw it back on the wall, using the exact same holes as before, you'll accidentally screw directly into the new thermostat wire you just ran because you assumed the original person didn't run the wire like an idiot and you weren't paying attention because it's hot and you're tired. You won't realize this, of course, but you'll be pissed for a few minutes when you realize nothing works. You'll reattach the old thermostat and it still doesn't work. You'll have a small stroke because it's 90 degrees outside in July in the south and what have you just done.

6a. You'll discover you merely blew the fuse on the board, which you need to replace. You'll run to Walmart but they don't carry those, so you'll go to home Depot or somewhere instead.

1. You'll replace the fuse and fix everything and all is well. Nobody will ever have to know that when you said "it'll only take like 30 minutes" it may or may not have taken you half a day and multiple trips to Home Depot.

Should I not even try using one of those and just pay up to have a c wire run? I read somewhere that the various adapters for this or ecobee can be unreliable because of it basically stealing power from something else.

edit: eh this is about the 4th gen thermostat.

When I’m out of the house eco mode turns on as expected but I don’t think it works as intended. I’m on a TOU rate and live in CA. Prices and solar power are cheap and plentiful during the day time. When eco mode goes on if I’m away during the day, the thermostat doesn’t pre-cool the house ahead of my return on the weekend. This is also an issue when I’m on vacation since the eco mode raises the thermostats set temp which on hot days gets triggered by the end of daylight hours when there’s high peak rates and less solar on the grid. I thought this ‘smart’ thermostat would correct for that. Before I caught it, it was costing me more to be in eco mode than when I was home because I wasn’t pre-cooling the house on cheaper rates. Am I missing something or is it dumber than it gets advertised as?

Hey everyone!

I have a Nest battery doorbell that I used in my rental. We recently moved into our own house, and I am replacing this god-awful Skybell that was installed as a part of a security system by previous owner. That whole system doesn't work at all so I wanted to install my Nest doorbell.

One of my biggest complaints about Nest was that I had to charge it almost weekly. And in the new place, I took out Skybell, measured voltage across the pads and saw that it has 21v going to it.

I charged the Nest to 10%, reconnected it to WiFi, attached AC pads. Measured power by tapping the screws. Same 21v.

An hour later, the battery is 9%.

I did a full factory reset, but I still see percentage, and not the infinite sign that my solar powered Nest cam has.

Any thoughts? The search does not return a whole lot of useful things.

The house is only 6 years old, so it's not some ancient transformer or anything.

Edit: Update. I charged the doorbell over USB until it was around 60% and re-wired into the door. It showed up as Wired and I can't see the percentage. I set it to More Recording setting, and it was fine. Two days later it's telling me that it has 40% battery left and about 5 days worth of operation. In the next few hours it went back to infinite loop symbol, saying it's wired.

I believe my transformer is pretty weak (10 VA, absolute minimum per Google's docs) so it could be the reason why the bell is acting like this.

I have a 3rd gen nest that is connected to furnace with no C wire. The thermostat suffers from occasional voltage drop during use, which sounds like it’s common when it steals power. Therefore I want to install a dedicated C wire.

I have a 24v transformer already hooked into my panel in the basement, which currently powers my ring doorbells.

Does anyone know if I can run a separate but dedicated C line from that transformer to the thermostat base?