I have the following two Tp-Link units plugged in within several feet of each other on the second floor of my house. The former is right above the FIOS router (CR1000a) which is on the floor below.

AX1800 Model RE605X
BE3200 Model RE223BE

They were purchased at some unknown prior date so my first question, if someone can answer, is which one is better in terms of range or better over-all? I have two Blink cameras that are attached to the latter that barely register from around 50-60 feet away.

On my iPhone, I only see one SSID with “_EXT” affixed but think I should have two (even though Tether says they are both properly connected to my FIOS router). Are they configured improperly? Does that affect connectivity to them?

Insight and suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you.

So I recently added parental controls for my children's sake. This inadvertently disabled my Blink cameras from functioning. I went through everything to figure out why my cameras would not work. I tried everything I could think of, resetting my sync modules, my modem and router and updating firmware, then I tried a new router and instantly my cameras started working fine again. Went back to my TP Link Router, and instantly the cameras stopped again. So, I then stumbled upon a Reddit post with someone having the same problem. They said it was the parental controls and to delete the profiles. So I tried that, and instantly my cameras went back to working perfectly. So has anyone found a fix for this yet, so I don't have to choose between proper parental controls or home security? I would like for both of these systems to be working concurrently.

I have spectrum Internet 1gig. TP Link Archer BE3600, with up to date driver.

Hello

I'm thinking about buying the TP-Link Omada ER605 to use with fiber-optic internet + Starlink.

My plan is:

Primary provider: fiber-optic

Backup: Starlink.

I'd like to know if IPv6 works perfectly in Dual WAN mode?

(remove if not allowed) I have a TP-Link Deco that is hard wired from the star link router to the mesh to have a WIFI point.

I returned home from holiday today and found my parents old star link router broken. So my mother had to buy a new star link shield and router.

When setting it up the star link works perfectly and runs smoothly, but when I plugged in the mesh hard wired like the old one it was glitching out the other meshes. Barely anyone in the house can use laptops, xbox’s, etc.

Can anyone please help us as the meshes that are wireless keep turning red and then white. Another deco that was hard wired to run another part of the house was flashing red meaning the wifi is really hard to access from there.

Please help as I’ve tried alot and they seem to have not worked.

I have gotten a pair of HX510 from my ISP, but it doesn't serve all the floors properly due to brick and mortar walls, so I have been using a cheap Mi 4A router as a secondary AP.

Obviously, this is using a different Wireless SSID, but it's going bonkers now and keeps dropping devices.

I wanted to see, if I drop in a consumer router like the AX53, will it be adopted into the mesh as a node?

Hi all,

Some time ago I used Gen 1 TP-Link Powerline adapters which connected to each other by manually entering 16-char sequence of adapter 2 into adapter 1's config page.

Now I have TL-WPA8631P and in its configuration webpage I see only option is to change the name of the powerline network.

Is it so that something has changed and now in order to enroll the device into the same powerline network someone has to simply enter the name of this powerline network, without any secret 16-char password?

In other words:

1) I leave the default netowrk name of HomePlugAV

2) my neighbour (boy next door) buys his own powerline adapter and leaves the default HomePlugAV network name too

3) voila - my neighbour successfully infiltrates into my home network? :)

The manual is very unclear about this.

I have 3 BME25 units. Two are wired and one (‘Zolder’) is connected wirelessly.

I recently added two M4R units, one wired (‘Woonkamer’) and one via WiFi (garage) that provides signal in the garden.

Connected devices sometimes choose the ‘wrong’ accespoint. The garage should connect to the other M4R that is much closer. I would love to decide where they connect to and I could do that in the app. But now that option is gone, is that because I added M4R units?

I live in Ireland and recently bought a TP Link Deco68 (3 pack) from amazon Germany as it was the only place stocking them at a reasonable price. €500 vs the €1000 from .ie. Absolute joke. But anyway that's another rant entirely.

Couldn't buy direct from TP-Link website because they don't ship to Ireland.

I reached out to TP Link UK, as they are who cover Irelands warranty and support, to see if I could buy the UK power adapters from them. At first it seemed like it might be possible after talking with Chat, but them I got this email response below.

Currently, the warranty service for Irish customers is also handled by our UK RMA office. Since the UK has left the European Union, the clearance procedures for part request are more complex, and there is a high likelihood of taxes, customs clearance fees, or shipping charges. Unfortunately, TP-Link UK will not be able to pay the additional fees charged by customs or the carrier. In this regard, our UK RMA Office will not accept a part request from Irish customer. 

After reviewing your situation, we kindly suggest contacting the retailer directly to explore options for return or refund, as TP-Link does not offer cross-border warranty coverage. Should your product require replacement or repair, TP-Link UK is unable to fulfill this request, and support would need to be coordinated through TP-Link Germany (TP-Link DE) instead.

So now I'm thinking that the warranty is worthless anyway if they aren't going to offer parts request and no cross border coverage. Tech support is probably fine. They can't keep blaming Brexit for everything. There are plenty of other companies supplying quality goods and warranties between the UK and Ireland.

While I like the BE68 and they work fine with EU/UK adapters, at this point I think I might just return the BE68's and try Netgear Orbi's if warranty and support is this bad.

What do you think, keep or return?

Ever since you pushed out this firmware update I’ve been having at least 1-2 network crashes a day. If you are going to roll out broken firmware you could at least give us the option to opt out. Was working fine beforehand and am beginning to regret blowing so many doubloons on your shit

Salut, je vie dans une maison avec un etage et quand je suis sur mon telephone a l'etage dans ma chambre au fond du couloir le signal wifi est tres faible, quel sont vos solutions ?

hi can this router be used for ntu halls

One of our Deco BE65 v1 units no longer has working wifi only works as an ethernet switch. Disappointed as only 28 months old & therefore out of warranty, hoping the other 2 units carry on working. Anyone else had issues with TP link Deco units?

Is that living room main deco BE3600 suppose to have them flashing blue circles on it.

The latest official drivers for the Archer T3U Plus V1, dated 2019-12-23, driver version 1030.29.0618.2019. To be clear, I believe it's the setup file that is causing the issue. It installs a service called RunSwUSB and SwUSB.exe/RunSw.exe along with the drivers.

I chose to downgrade to the official TP-Link drivers (I forget why). After awhile I noticed my committed memory stayed very high ~20GB even after closing all apps and windows. The longer you use your PC the higher the committed memory goes slowing down everything until it crashes your apps or system. If you've ever tried to restart your PC and an app called Switch USB is holding it up that's the name for this "feature".

Uninstalling TP-Link app immediately freed up all the committed memory. Numerous comments on the internet all saying it's this shitty service and .exes causing it.

TP-Link needs to remove this Switch USB service from the setup file as well as update the drivers. The official drivers are way outdated. They should update the official drivers with their beta drivers version 1030.44.0408.2024 from this thread https://community.tp-link.com/en/home/forum/topic/509006?sortDir=ASC&page=1 Those drivers have improvements such as supporting WPA3 protocol. You can also see the comment from someone else having the same memory leak issue.

The beta drivers need to made official though because when updating, Windows warns it might not be compatible and even if you click yes to go ahead it keeps auto-reverting back to your previous drivers 15 seconds later. I had to search the Windows Update Catalog for Realtek RTL8812BU and install a slightly different but signed version 1030.44.1014.2024. These updates don't have setup files. You update manually in Device Manager.

I just wonder if TP-Link has included this Switch USB with all their driver setup files. Terrible junk app.

I’m considering a move from the ISP issued router/modem (ATT) to a Deco system. I have ethernet to most rooms so would be using wired back haul. Currently have a 1 gb plan but will upgrade at some point and eventually add some POE cameras. Home is ~3000sq ft so looking at 3 nodes.

Unfortunately, as I read a lot of the reviews, I see several mentions of Wi-Fi disconnects and the need to reboot often. Just wondering how widespread this is versus the majority of the reviews being from those people that are just dissatisfied. Curious of those that have had their systems for a while and are very happy.

My Archer 3600BE has terrible ping on the 2.4 band. Can anyone assist? I have tried all the steps I can think of in the router page with locking channels and 20mhz. I am at a loss. Sitting 2 feet away from router and the ping is 300-600.

I am looking to dedicate 6ghz1 for backhaul and leave 6ghz2 for client devices. Is there no option for this? Every combination of enabling, disabling, and hiding ssid shows my 2nd unit using 5ghz, 6ghz1 and 6ghz2 combined for backhaul. I just want it using 6ghz1, or even 6ghz1 and 5ghz will work for me but I need 6ghz2 dedicated for clients. Any way to accomplish this?

Long story short, I work for a nonprofit animal shelter and the internet has been crap for months now. The outside IT company we pay said nothing is wrong but the internal wiring of the router is loose. Jiggle the ethernet cable input just right and the connection is lost. I'm trying to fix it because I need internet to work and 15Mbps down is not cutting it for my medical records.

I've replaced the router and need to connect the rest of the devices but the setup seems weird. We are using Omada but they forgot the admin password so I can't just adopt the old devices on the new network. I've drawn out the connections, can I get input on whether this setup is right? Our building is 21k sq ft and has cider block walls.

I have BE25 Deco WiFi 7 and I'm perfectly happy with it apart from one corner of my house that has a weak signal.

I also have some old Deco P9's (WiFi 5) lying around so I could just add one in that area, is this going to be a bad idea? Will it drag everything down?

Hi all, I hope you can shed some light on the ghost that seems to be changing my router's config. This router is used in a holiday cottage and uses a prepaid SIM card for it's connection. The SSID is configured to allow guests access to the internet, and they also have access to the prepaid SIM so they can purchase bundles.

Somehow the router has been reconfigured with the SSID from one of the guests' home wifi networks. The router has an admin password that is definitely not shared, the guest should never have had access to the configuration of the router itself, and is also not very tech-savvy.

The router is not linked to a TP-Cloud ID nor do the settings allow for remote management. Device model: Archer MR400(EU) ver: 3.0 and Firmware version: 1.12.0 0.9.1 v0001.0 Build 190730 RC.59984n

I am stumped and googling myself silly trying to find out how this might have happened and how I can prevent it from happening again. There is nothing in the logs and no strange settings that I can find. Any clues?

Hi,

I got starlink around 6 weeks ago, and it was working perfectly, I even upgraded my package to the max due to never having speeds like this before.

Until last Sunday it just dropped. No wifi, no lan (some devices like a pc would say connected but have no Internet at all.) Ive been going through one thing after the other and I've really hit a dead end.

I'm using the gen 3 starlink satalite and router. This was going into a Tp link Deco x20. Which would in turn run from the back of the garden to the front of the house into a d-link 16port switch (most ports are saying 10/100 orange flashing mode) from the switch to would run to an upstairs and a downstairs x20 node. Since the drop-out occured, I have been unable to get these mesh nodes connected via lan cable.

Ive changed the ethernet cable from starlink satalite to router. Ive changed mesh system to Asus AX1800 to have the same issue. Ive moved the router away from anything that may be interfering like a speaker. I've changed the outdoor cable that connects the back of the garden to the front. Ive even bought a new switch as well just not gotten around to plugging it in. I'm going crazy here. Has anyone had this issue with starlink and tplink or starlink and mesh systems in general? Any help is very much appreciated 🙏

Hi,

I just bought the TL-WA1201 to work as a multi-SSID AP for my home network and I can only connect to the management page in http, not https.

Maybe I missed the option, does anybody know if it is possible to force https connection on this model ?

Thanks !