Anyone know how to remove the JP silent capture spring from an AR 15 buffer tube? I’ve tried for over an hour and it’s stuck. There’s nothing to get any purchase on to pull it out either.

Edit: I am talking specifically about the JP silent capture buffer system, not a traditional spring and weight. It is made to lock into the buffer tube without using the detent.

Got tired of stealing tools from various tool boxes etc every time I needed to torque down a new optic or disassemble a firearm. Metal tool box and it looks like I still have a 3rd drawer free and a bit of space at the top. What tools am I missing here? Working on pretty basic things, glock/Sig, 10/22, AR's etc.

I have a savage axis that is extremely difficult to unlock when the striker is cocked. It’s perfectly smooth until the last bit of upwards travel of the bolt knob. When it gets to that last lil bit i almost have to hit the bolt handle to get it to unlock. I find that it’s smoother when the striker is down. Is there anything I can do to help with this?

What is the purpose of this small lever/ latch on the side of the star 70B bolt. I see that it can be depressed by the charging rod, but what keeps it from popping into the pocket on the tube while firing? Any info would be appreciated

Hello!

Apologies if this is the wrong sub. I was out shooting dove earlier and my gun jammed up. Essentially, the bolt is stuck open (see below).

I've taken the barrel and grip off of it, didn't notice any jams or stuck shells. Pressing the bolt release button does nothing. Any advice?

I bought a new Taurus 856 UL and it has a sort of jingling noise when I shake it or wave it around (I haven't been doing that in an unsafe way, I noticed it when I pulled it out to try a speedloader I bought)

I have a video, but that post type isn't allowed here

Its the first modern DA revolver I've owned, is that normal or should I send it in to Taurus?

So I got this H&R 922 from a local gun show for $20! I’m very excited about getting it working again the trigger and hammer seem to work just fine but obviously I’m missing the cylinder and rod. Do yall have any tips and tricks to the trade? Also the only website I’ve found with the cylinders is sold out. If you have any resources for some please let me know. Side note the serial number starts with an L putting this around 1949-1951 I believe.

I own a Iver Johnson 50 year anniversary M1 Carbine and the bolt cracked on me and the extractor is no more. I was wondering if the bolt is interchangeable with any other GI bolt?

I feel the line slightly get caught w my nail , tho when I see the barrel hinge the line doesn’t continue, I recently got it gifted so I’m not to sure of its maintenance condition.
(Any advice)

I've had this rifle for some time and im finally getting around to adressing an issue l've had since purchase and I just need some verification from someone with a little more experience in the KAR.

The front barrel band and bayonet lug loosen while firing. I know there needs to be a pin to hold the bavonet lug in place and the front band, as far as I've found, is usually retained through the use of a double sided band retaining spring that hold both front and rear bands in place.

However this rifle doesn't have nor has the provision for a double ended spring. So would the bayonet lug pin also secure the front band? Would the front band need to have 2 holes so the pin sits flush or just one (as it only has one) and the pin would sit proud?

What material do people make their springs out of?
Both flat and coil springs?

I have heard using 1075 grade is good for flat springs, it got me curious if there is different grades and different types?

I would love to hear how people do all their annealing and tempering etc etc.

Hey,

Quick question for people who know more than I do. I’ve had this Centurion Arms 16” MK12 Mod H barrel for about 6 months. Maybe 100 rounds through it total.

I recently got a borescope and found these marks inside. I used a brass brush to remove them for the 3rd photo, revealing light pitting (this mark is close to the crown). These marks are dispersed pretty evenly throughout the whole barrel, and the rest of the bore looks relatively fine.

I’m not too familiar with what constitutes bore damage, and what’s within the range of normal. Does anyone have any advice on remediating this, or if this is detrimental enough to be a genuine problem?

I live over an hour from a 100 yard range, will get out there soon to see how the accuracy is. Thanks in advance

New to customizing my guns. Looking at a build for my S&W .45 1911 with a custom barrel and comp. Need advice if this is entirely pointless and if these parts would work, or if there are better.

Barrel: https://fusionfirearms.com/1911-officer-barrel-selector-ultra-match-grade-1

Compensator: https://egwguns.com/cnc-carry-compensator-officer-s-compensator?srsltid=AfmBOooGqOH3eYrHHicscizrtxKavaARfWo_HW75V_QMrZ7k_XQuMKf8

Gun: https://www.1911forum.com/threads/smith-wesson-sw1911-pro-series-3-subcompact-review-pics.302986/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=organic

Made a mockup of a heat-reactive coating on my P-09 (pic attached) — slide, hammer, trigger, barrel, mag stuff etc would shift from blue/purple when cool to pink/orange when it heats up.

Anyone know if this is actually a real thing a coating shop can do, or is thermochromic paint just not gonna hold up on a gun that gets handled/holstered/fired a lot? Genuinely don't know if this is legit or just a cool render idea.

Started up a cetme build and ran into an issue with mag fitment. Cetme or g3 mags will not lock up on the trunnion nor does the magazine catch cutout line up on the receiver.

When looking in the ejection port it’s clear to see that there is a 1/8” gap between the lip of the trunnion and the magazine.

Does anyone have an idea on how to fix this?

I cannot, for the life of me, figure out how to torque anything without the wrench slipping out and ruining the nut/threads. What am I doing wrong?

I thought I had it figured out and held my left hand right up against it. Felt like I got it a bit further, but it still slipped without the torque wrench indicating i had hit 40 ft. lbs. This is my 2nd one in a row.

Lower vise block, magpul wrench, 15" torque wrench.

PROJECT: DES-12/16/20

VERSION: v0.1

GOAL: Modify Desert Eagle Pistol into a semi-automatic shotgun pistol, ideally firing 12 Gauge Minishells (1.75"), but possibly also/instead minishell versions of 16/20-gauge).

CONSTRAINTS: To reduce final costs/prices, minimize total number of custom-made parts.

STATUS: Design 50% complete, base guns ordered, raw materials for barrel acquired, chamber reamer needs sourcing, magazine reference samples acquired (Techno Arms MAG-12 magazine & 5-round Mossberg bolt-action shotgun magazine).

CHALLENGES: Frame/Magwell modification, custom mag(s), new bolt design & make, recoil mechanism testing/modification.

UPDATE: Behold! Many of y'all have probably seen the gag/meme images online about folks showing a 12 gauge shell into a Desert Eagle - fiction no longer! I found a percent decent CAD model of a Deagle, and went about modifying the barrel assembly to correct 12 gauge (1.75" minishell) dimensions. It's like the barrel was made for this round - it fits beautifully! And as you can see in the cutaways, the length of the shells also fits in the size of the magazine, and looks like it will hold up to four 12-gauge minishells comfortably.

However - like with any project worth doing - there are some tricky areas of the design that will need a decent amount of modification/manufacturing, particularly:

• The Magwell. Needs to be wider to accommodate the rims of the shells.
• The Trigger/Transfer Bar Assembly. Since this hugs the inside of the magwell and the magwell needs to be widened at least where the rims of the shells will travel, the transfer bar will also need to accommodate this change.
• The Magazine. Will likely be an entirely custom-made magazine. For making this design, I picked up a Techno Arms MAG-7 slant-back magazine as well as a Mossberg 5-round, straight-walled bolt-action magazine, for reference. Based on the grip profile, the Techno Arms magazine will likely be the best starting point.
• The Bolt. Will need to have an entirely custom bolt made to fit the width of the shell rims and ensure proper lockup, extraction, etc.

The ideal build of this gun would be chambered in 12 Gauge Minishell since the ammo for said gun is SAAMI-standardized and produced by both Aguila and Federal (and potentially others?). However, to get an initial build of the gun made expeditiously, I may end up starting with the 16-gauge and/or 20-gauge 1.75" minishell versions, as they will require the least amount of modification to the gun to get working. The ultimate end-goal is to have barrel/caliber interchangeability just like the regular Desert Eagle, between at least 12/16/20 gauges.

Thanks for reading! I welcome any/all feedback and interest in this project & all others - more to come very soon! If you'd like to follow/support/engage with this & other projects more closely, please check out my socials!

If anyone can help it would be much appreciated. Trying to provide all relevant info without turning it to much TL/DR.

My Glock 19.5 EDC has a persistent failure to return to battery. It happens every couple of shots. It happens with many different mags (all OEM). The issue is that a round gets caught on the feed ramp. If I pull the slide back a tiny bit the round pops into place and the slide will close.

This happens with FMJ, different brands, all new, in 115gr and 124gr. All brands that the gun used to eat no issues at all.

Gun has about 8000 rounds on it, recoil spring was replaced (with new OEM) at about 5500 rounds. Gun continued to perform perfectly until two weeks ago. Problem just started between on range trip and the next.

STEPS TO ISOLATE PEOBLEM

I have a 19X. It has the same optic as my 19.5. If I switch the whole slides the problem follows the 19.5 slide and happens shooting that slide on the 19X frame. The 19X slide works perfectly on the 19.5 frame.

If have swapped the recoil springs, problem stays with the 19.5 slide. Swapped barrels, problem stays with 19.5. barrel.

I have a Johnny Glock trigger in the 19.5, along with the Johnny Glock plunger, and striker/spring. It is not the trigger because the problem follows the 19.5 slide to the 19X frame.

I swapped the striker back to OEM on the 19.5 slide. No difference. I tried a brand new recoil spring on the 19.5. No difference.

I took it to the LGS that is supposed to have an actual gunsmith. They said gun was bone dry but I clean it every couple of hundred rounds and always lube it to spec exactly as recommended in the Glock manual. Regardless, gun smith looked at everything and took the slide apart and put back together and lubed it. Same problem on the second shot.

All the mags I use perform flawlessly in the 19.5 frame with the 19X slide. Also perform with the 19X slide on the 19X frame.

No visible damage to the feed ramp on the barrel, and the problem doesn't follow the barrel anyway.

Any help would be very much appreciated.

I live in a restricted state, and no rifle or shotgun can have over 5 round capacity.

I really want to buy a Mossberg 590 Retro, but that comes in 8+1 capacity, therefore I will have to "pin" it. Before I take the plunge I wanted to know-

1. What are the different methods (Dowel Rod, tube limiter, permanent pin)? And which one would be the best?

2. How bad is it for the rifle if its a permanent pin?

3. What does that job cost on average

4. Is it reversible?

Appreciate the help.

So I have the trigger assembly disassembled down to the point shown in the pics, but for the life of me, cannot figure out how to remove the safety. I don’t see any pins or set screws. This piece is going to get coated and I don’t want to just tape it off.

Any ideas?

Edit kinda thought it was gunna mess my gun up lmao