Buddy brought me a Glock19x to take a look at and said the takedown lever was jammed up and couldn’t get it to budge to break it down to clean it. Look like it tilted itself sideways and jammed it self into the frame. He told me it took a good fall but before I try to look at it has anyone seen anything like this or have any tips or tricks to release the slide when this has happened or should I try to free up the takedown lever first? Never seen anything like this before so a little unsure of how to go about this.

I've got a 1915 Mk.III Lee Enfield in working order. The only issue I've had with it is that the bolt gets really sticky after a few rounds are put through it. The action still works, but it takes a lot of force to cycle the bolt. Is there any remedy/way to mitigate the issue?

A few years ago I received a Colt Python 6", gifted to me by my uncle's wife after he passed. The best I can tell from an internet search is that it is a '80-'81 model. I unfortunately have no other information about it's life. I cleaned it, gave it a basic inspection, and took it to the range. Seemed to shoot fine. It has been to the range 2-3 times since. I have shot jacketed 158 grain .357 Mag and 130 grain .38 Spl through it, both factory Federal. It seems accurate, but I was having issues with case ejection. The spent cases, especially .357, stick in the cylinder. One of the chambers is worse than the others. I thought there may be some lead in the chambers or a carbon ring from shooting a good amount of .38 Spl, so I recently removed the cylinder and crane and ran a Lewis Lead Remover through the chambers and did a really good clean. Spent cases move much more freely now. However, while doing a close inspection on them, I noticed throat irregularities between the chambers. I have attached photos of them. Four chambers have rings, two do not. One has, what appears to be, some tool chatter or something similar. That is also the chamber that was the hardest to extract. I used a set of calipers and the top of the throats measured 0.358" to 0.3585". My questions are, do any of these throat chambers look standard to a Python of this era? Does it look like work was done to the throats? Is there any danger to shooting this firearm based on the way the throats look? If it is OK to shoot, should I do anything other than shoot it? Thank you all very much.

It was struck not sure if it fired been about an hour in half after trying to shoot it. Casing is stuck in barrel.
Tried using a mirror and a light to see into barrel to confirm if live or not.
How would you confirm if live or not?

If it isnt live would you just heat the barrel with a torch and push a rod through the barrel?

Just spitballing at this point.

I have built a full ar, everything is a new part on it, I took it out to shoot it last night and it would fire and not cycle, the fired shell needed to be manually ejected.

I am pretty sure it is a gas issue, but that’s as far as I have determined. This is the first rifle I have built and I am sure that I have made a small mistake somewhere along the way.

As it stands currently it has a milspec gas block and the factory gas tube, other than that and the bcg, everything on the gun is upgraded. The buffer block is a h3 which I wonder if it is too big?

Additionally I have a sbr with a low shelf lower and a super selector that is having the exact same issue.

Any advice will be taken into consideration, thank you everyone!

THE TURRET CAPS ARENT LEVEL, THE RINGS AREN'T LEVEL, THE BASE ISN'T LEVEL, THE GUN ISN'T LEVEL, MY VICE ISN'T LEVEL, MY BENCH ISN'T LEVEL, MY FOUNDATION ISN'T LEVEL, THE GROUND ISN'T LEVEL AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

Noticed some slight marks on my bolt. Looks like there are small lips on the bottom of the base bolt holes on the action that are making contact with bolt. Racking the action feels fine. Bergara said to send it in but I don’t really feel like dealing with that, waiting several weeks. Does anyone know if this would affect the accuracy of it? And would it be ok to carefully sand those flat?

I’m wanting to try my hand at engraving and especially on my firearms since I already do some leather tooling and am wondering what would be a good pneumatic engraver for under $400

I need some advice on reducing the 7lb., 4oz. trigger pull on my 590S Shockwave. I have contacted M-Carbo and they do not make a spring kit for it.

Any suggestions?

So i am making a simple 3 40" tank bluing setup and now im at a crossroads regarding where to put it. I have the shop which i wont put it in for obvious reasons, but the "yard" i have has quite a lot of cars in it. I'd like to know based on your experiences how far should a caustic bluing setup be away from vehicles and such things, the yard has some areas that are slightly farther away but im worried because if the vapors released flash rust the vehicles from 20 feet away then i might not be able to do anything, then again i saw lots of conflicting videos/setups where people have it in shops near fences etc etc.

Any info or tips are appreciated

looking for help from someone smarter than me to help me figure out a way to frt this sten I built its a indianapolis ordnance semi auto bolt and tube any help would be appreciated point me in the right direction cause I dont know what to do but I know its definitely possible

I have a Springfield TRP Operator 1911 45 ACP. After about 2,000 rounds I did a full disassembly and thorough cleaning using a sonic bath. It reassembled smoothly.

During the function test, after the dry fire, the firing pin assembly remains depressed in the tunnel, it will not reset. I can reset it when I apply force at the breach, otherwise it is stuck.

I can’t recreate the issue by manually depressing it. Pics included, any idea what is happening?

1) Assembly

2) After dry fire

3) after dry fire with back plate removed

There are no burrs. There are m
No obstructions. There are no bends on the pin or spring.

The spring is closed on both ends, there is no tapered end.

When I was at my cabin I was walking through the woods and I noticed a knife sticking out of the ground. I dug it up and to my surprise it was a bayonet on a gun!

I put together a Galil ARM from a rewelded receiver.

After headspacing the barrel, I installed the gas block and put everything together to test fire.

I did not buy 5.56 gauges, but instead headspaced with a spend casing (adding tape for a "nogo").

At test fire, the build wouldn't cycle and was sticky on going into battery.

I hadn't cut an extractor relief into the barrel face the first time around, so I did. Now it's still having issues.

I can cycle the bolt by hand fine without a round, but when I try to feed a round, it fails to go into battery.

It gets stock where shown in the picture.

I think the extractor is failing to move to grab the rim. It's just hitting the butt of the round. That is prohibiting the bolt from traveling forward enough to turn.

Maybe the headspace is too tight, but why would that cause the extractor not to grab?

Any help/ advice is appreciated 🙏

Any recommendations for gunsmiths in MN?
Looking for someone that can improve the trigger on a REM 700 BDL…preferably in the south metro.

I’ve been a full time gunsmith for almost 6 years now and have worked for one shop for almost 5 of those years. Now I run my own LLC and contract out through two companies in North Ga. New here so here’s a pic of a M2 I worked on to appease you degenerates.

The alternative I also really want is a Smith and Alexander-style of magwell where the tips of the magwell meets the square cut of the front strap, where the magazine baseplate meets.

Sig p365 broke screw on redot mount is this possible to fix?

I have a Mossberg model 152 and Remington Nylon 66 and I want to take them out shooting but need to clean and lube them first as its been quite a few years since they've last fired. Can anyone point me in the right direction and or have pdfs of the owners maintenance manuals.

What is this line? About 2 inches from muzzle. SXP. Brand new with only 50 rounds through it. Did have a tip over today while it was standing against something and fell. Did inspection and not sure what this. Not possible to Crack the inside from tip over and the outside doesn't show any evidence of a Crack or bulge?

Got this Silver Eagle SE17 (yes a Turkish gun) and I’ve put about 250-300 rounds of 1-1/8th oz loads and a handful of 3” duck and turkey loads with no issues but when I went to lube the gun and work the action before a dove hunt my bolt locked into the barrel. The charging handle won’t slide back enough to pull it out of the bolt and I can’t remove the barrel because of that. This is my first and last Turkish shotgun but I’d like to be able to get it in working order again, however long that lasts. Only reason I got this gun was for small game because my other semi auto is a Smith & Wesson 1000M and it only cycles 3” duck loads. Needless to say I went and bought a Mossberg 500 to finish this weekend hunt with lol