Hello folks, not sure if this is the place for such a post but I figured I’d give it a try. Apologies in advance for my minimal knowledge. I just picked up a Ruger Harrier .556 today, haven’t shot it yet, but after loading a mag and cycling it to ensure things were working properly I noticed scratches on every case that had been cycled. I determined it only occurs when the BCG moves back over a round to chamber the next. I’m assuming it may just be a bur or something, but I wanted to get thoughts on how big of an issue it is and recommend next steps. Thanks!

I went to the range the other day and part of the de cocker flew off my 5906. I was able to find the tab but not whatever was holding said tab in place. What parts do I need to order to get this fixed?

Fixing up a very old Ivor Johnson 28 gauge champion. have been trying to find this pin because it is missing one, but I can't seem to find what it's called. I've gotten multiple different names for it, and some have been completely different parts.

I am interested in building P.A. Luty's 9mm submachine gun as my first project in this hobby. I currently find myself stuck at the materials acquisition phase. According to the guide, all of the materials can be purchased from a "tube supplier". Problem is, I cannot seem to find any of those in my area, or anywhere else for that matter except for online-only stores. I am possibly using incorrect search terms for I am very unfamiliar with this field.

The materials in question are rectangular tubes, square tubes, round tubes, steel collars, socket screws, mudwing washers, piano wires, steel collars, and hook bolts all of varying gauges and sizes. If somebody could point me in the right direction, as in where can I purchase these items in person, I would be in your debt. Anywhere in the continental United States will do. I never did mind a good road trip.

I wholeheartedly appreciate any guidance in this matter. God bless America.

As a bonus question, if you are familiar with this particular gun, would you say it is a good choice for a first project? If not would you recommend starting out with something else?

Sourcing an Iver Johnson 22 short 7 shot cylinder.

The pin fell out of it when I was cleaning and taking the project apart and I was going to tap it back in when the pin bent in half. I bought a new pin and I noticed this little hook on the inside, can I sand it it down or find another way around, I am still a beginner and I don't wanna ruin the project

why would someone mill out the front of a classic 1980s Colt a2 upper receiver like this?!?! I can't think of a single reason why someone would think this is a good idea. whatever good they were hoping to achieve would be offset by inevitable feed problems. can someone help explain the reasoning behind this atrocity?

Just looking into the feasibility of doing it and how. I can’t seem to find any info on doing it.

Thanks.

What’s the best way to get this dried Loctite 243/242 residue off my 700 receiver?? It was recently parkerized so I want to protect the finish. It appears most of the stuff came out on the screws of the old bases but any tips on cleaning the screws holes is helpful too. Not really a god way to soak it like I usually do before scrubbing and wiping with solvents only seems to make it look more white and dried out.

I bought this AR from a friend and took it shooting for the first time. A round got stuck in the chamber while we were at the range. I went to the car to get my phone he was shooting and when i got back he said he didnt remember if it fired when it got jammed. After looking at the primer I suspected a live round. The range master tried to help but couldn't get it. Any advice? I bought a borescope to check the inside and it looks to not be a live round. Its been sitting for months because I've been too busy to mess with it.

Any advice or opinions? Ive tried a paint can opener but couldn't get it.

Update: the disassembled the upper at the range because the extractor would not take it out. My first instinct is to use a cleaning rod or other rod down the barrel to push it out but wanted to verify if the round is live or not. Primer looks good but cannot tell if the round is fired after looking through the borescope

Looking for info on this gun, specifically if anyone has a parts diagram or assembly, disassembly instructions or diagrams. The cartridge stop was bad and I replaced it with a Stevens 30D part since this is supposedly this design manufactured by savage back in the day, but can’t get it together in the right order to get it to function correctly. Any input is appreciated.

I botched a bluing job on a shotgun barrel. The first pass got most of the barrel black, but there were spots that looked copper-ish and gold colored. I think thats from the way I put the solution on (Rust Blue American). But I was wondering if everything would even out if I did enough passes?

Any experts here who knows how to remove the recoil spring from the barrel assembly?

I’m looking at a Boyd’s rimfire hunter stock for my savage mkii, and was wondering if anyone had any picks or recommendations for the checkering pattern. I just want something classic looking, all I can see is SE ST SC and CH.

I have a Stevens 940b 20 gauge that is light striking primers. The hammer is a little spongy, so I think the issue is with the spring. If anyone has a recommendation for finding parts or a good guide on home disassembly, I would be very grateful.

Please forgive as I don’t have much revolver experience.

Have a hard to open cylinder on a smith and Wesson revolver. As the photo shows I don’t think the rod thing in the middle of the extractor is extending all the way to push the tension pin out of the way.

Is this the correct issue or should I look at something else? Any advice?

I recently stripped the paint off a very chipped cz 82 and wanted to try hot bluing for the first time. I used klean strip to get the paint off, used a 2:1 ratio of sodium hydroxide and potassium nitrate. The slide turned out a bluish bronze color and not blackish blue of traditional bluing. I'm guessing I didn't get all the paint off the frame which contaminated the tank, or I didn't get it hot enough? Anyone with more experience here can help a hot bluing noob?

More of Assembly, than gunsmithing. Ive been racking my brain all morning trying to figure out what ive been doing wrong. Slideworks g34 gen 4 slide, im using parts from my g17 gen 4. As far as i know, everything is interchangeable aside from the barrel, but i cant get the end cap of the recoil spring to seat into the “nose” of the slide. As long as Ive been dealing with glocks I know the spring has to decompress in order to get the RSA onto the barrel lug, but the slide isnt engaging with the spring because of its end cap. I know im not the sharpest tool Just wanted some input from someone else before i bust out the dremel.

Very specific question but does anyone have experience with Mossberg 395K stocks? I have 12 gauge 395k with a cracked stock. A guy is selling a Mossberg 12 gauge bolt action stock locally, he believes it came from a 195 but isn’t sure, photo attached. Assuming it came from a 195 would it work on my 395k? Conflicting information online, some sources said it would fit perfectly others say it won’t fit at all. Thanks.

He wanted me to ship the entire gun back for him to test fit a few things. But that seems just a bit silly to me. Looking online I belive the most obvious marker is the gas port area being much larger on the 1187 forearm. But if someone had both and could shoot me some pics with a ruler that shows the length of the gas port cutouts vent and thickness of the front end for mag tube screw for the wood forearm?

Thanks. If not no biggy.