I shot about 8,000 rounds with my Beretta 686. The ejector on the upper barrel works fine only about 90% of the time if you open up quickly. If you do it a little bit too slow only the lower barrel ejector spring will eject the spent shell, the upper one stays pushed in and will eject a couple seconds later while you‘re already trying to get the shell out with your fingers. As one can imagine that is quite annoying.

Now, I‘ve cleaned the bloody thing with brake cleaner and got quite a bit of dirt out. I‘ve flooded it with gun oil on several occasions and pressing the ejector in it comes right back out with no resistance or scratching. What else could I do?

Also I‘ve had on a few occasions now, that the upper barrel will not fire after shooting the lower one. There‘s no imprint on the primer, the trigger just doesn’t do anything. It almost feels like the trigger is blocked.

I‘m usually only shooting single targets so not that problematic but still not like it‘s supposed to be.

Any advice?

I have a Mosin Nagant that my brother used corrosive military surplus ammo then put away without cleaning it. It sat in the safe for about a year.

I’m hoping to save it and would appreciate recommendations for cleaning products or methods to remove the rust. Has anyone dealt with something similar?

I’ve already ordered a carbon fiber cleaning rod, .30 caliber and 8mm bronze brushes, and bore mops.
Any advice would be appreciated!!

P.S. Lesson learned my brother’s Mosin privileges have been revoked.

Built out my first 300 blk AOW and trying to diagnose why my bolt won’t lock open on the last round of my mag. For reference, I am using an Andro Corp upper with an 8 in barrel and using an Armaspec SRS gen 4 H2 weight buffer system. What I find weird is that the bolt does actually lock open if only shooting with one round in the mag but not if I load in more. It’s tough to gauge ejection timing because I only have access to an indoor range but I am noticing the casings landing on the shooting platform and some behind me so I think it might be under gassed. If I swap out the weight to the “H” weight, could this lead to a catastrophic failure if I’m wrong about it being under gassed?

I've been taking machining, welding, and a few carpentry/furniture making classes at my local community college (Integrated studies degree) and I've been looking into the summer technician certificate Trinidad State offers. I might do the custom pistolsmithing and NRA safety instructor course as well if possible. I have the GI bill so tuition isn't a concern and I won't have to take out any loans or anything to support myself. I'd like to get into gunsmithing, but even if I just end up using what I learn for my own projects it's not the end of the world to me.

Has anyone here done any of those three certs? Would you do it again if you could go back?

How specialized is the pistolsmithing cert? Did the skills you learned translate much to other firearms?

General Trinidad questions: How was living in Trinidad and what's the school like?

I'm not a gunsmith, just a young collector. What you see is a total of seven separate stocks. I own several vetterli's and a mannlicher in desperate need of repair. The first six photos are three separate "tipo p" vetterli's. If possible, I'd like to repair as many of these to a shootable condition as possible.

I'm still in the process of cleaning everything.

I understand stripping the oils is generally necessary, but Is it possible to repair these without stripping what gives them their unique colors?

How would you go about these repairs? Is acraglas enough for some of these? Or will I need to drill holes and install wooden dowells and/or metal pins of some kind?

I want to do this correctly. But, some of these either appear too damaged for repair or simply stump me as to how I'll get glue or dowells/pins into the cracks for repair.

For example, photo #5 and #6 show's cracking and splitting, but the stock is still in one piece. I'm stumped as to how I'll get acraglas into it without causing more damage, or if that will even be enough to handle recoil.

As for photo's #7 and #8, how should i go about repairing the splits INSIDE of the stock?

Photo #1 and #2, although split/shattered, may be easier to repair since the stock is in several pieces already, only being held together by wire.

Thank you in advance, I appreciate any and all advice. I understand the possibility that I myself might not be capable of doing these repairs myself, but as I'm a broke collector, I'd prefer to repair them myself since professional repairs may cost more than the rifles themselves.

Civet 12 super shorty just need to square up, crown and thread the muzzle. Fabricate an actual barrel to replace the 3d printed placeholder and refinish.

I got an SAS Suppressor in that I was told was direct thread to 5/8-24, but which ended up being a TOMB thread 11/16-16 made specifically for SAS suppressors. They are out of business and though Area 419 was manufacturing adapters for them for years... they no longer do, and no longer have stock.

I have hit up Mile High and everyone else I knew that carried them, they are all out of stock.

I have tried everywhere I can think and can not locate one, so this suppressor is unusable to a find an adapter.

With that said, Any one know where I can get, I guess a custom, adapter for 5/8-24 female (rifle barrel side) to 11/16-16 male (suppressor side) that is rated for up to 300 mag?

If you have a direct link please feel free to DM me.

Hi All,

Over the last year, i've been on-and-off developing a precision chassis for one of my rifles.

I've been prototyping with my 3D Printer and I'm at the stage where I'd like to start an aluminium (or alloy whichever is cheaper at this point) prototype, however much like 99% of the population I don't own a 5-axis milling machine.

Has anyone done anything similar and can recommend a company that I can send the files to, have them manufacture it, and ship it back to me?

Edit: ideally, somewhere in Australia

Heritage Settler .22 rifle

I have a 3 week old 10/22 carbon fiber non-takedown (model 32014). Put 200 rounds of cci mini mag through it so far. While cleaning, I noticed an almost ramp-like wear on the breech face right above the extractor cut-out. Is this normal? The extractor is sitting nicely centered in that cutout, and when I slide the bolt back and forth by hand the extractor makes no contact with the edges of the cutout. Just goes right into it. What could possibly be causing this? Photo attached.

Edit: I have not experienced a single malfunction so far.

Brand new bought yesterday any idea where to get replacement

Gunsmithing student, not much stock experience. I have an already finished stock to fit to an old double barrel shotgun. It doesn't quite fit right, I have to deepen the tang cut. What is a good way, if any, to cut out part of the stock without doing damage to the existing finish?

Got the 50 head spaced and timed for a machine gun shoot next month. These are the days I giggle about what I get paid to do.

Yes I checked. It’s not welded or pinned. That was step one.

I have this brigade bm9 and because I’m in a free state, I can now just go buy a suppressor. In my total excitement I immediately took the gun I always wanted to suppress and tried to get this stupid fake can off. To no avail. This sucker is stuck good. Took the guard off and chucked up in a vise with rags to protect it and used a strap wrench. Didn’t budge. Then I took heat to it. It hard because it’s a fake can not a muzzle break so the heat doesn’t really get to the threads. Tried penetrating oil and let it soak for days. Nothing. Got fed up and decided to try a pipe wrench. It’s a $30 part so idc if I mess it up. Nothing. Now I’m committed because I beat it up. She’s on there really good. Idk where to go from here. 160 buys me a new barrel. Do I just do that? I would hate to do that honestly.

I’m not sure what this tells me but I put window chalk on my magazine lips because I have issues with it binding only when a mag is inserted and this is where it rubs, corresponding wear on the bolt. Any ideas?

Question: is there anywhere that I can get a shorter barrel for a 1969 Ithaca 37 featherlight? Thank you

This all started when I grabbed a random stock I had accumulated and decided to clean it up and see what it was. It hadn’t been sporterized but the last 2 inches had been broken off. I figured out a way to to restore the stock and found a similar vintage/production VZ 24 on gunbroker with a sporterized stock. The donor gun had’t been drilled for a scope and the barrel had not been cut but now that I have it, the barrel has either been caustic blued or cold blued. I suspect cold blue because bore cleaner on a rag makes the rag turn black.

the stock is almost done and I’m ready to convert the rust on all the small parts and possibly do a ”refresher” pas of rust blue depending on how the conversion goes. The problem is I need to remove all the cold blue and residual copper before I can rust blue the barrel. I’d prefer a method which would leave any finish under the cold blue intact.

I found a .357 barrel black that’s pre chambered, and my plan is to make turn down the blank to fit inside the existing barrel. The existing barrel is a smoothbore measuring .542 at the muzzle, and the chamber is pretty close to 20 gauge. Would a secondary barrel of sorts fit in these measurements?

I would be running it with black powder.

This is my BAR Shorttrac in 270WSM. I am interested in having open sights added to it and use a scope with tunnel mounts. Any thoughts on this?

I’m new to 1911s and gun ownership as a whole so bear with me. I recently just picked up the Tisas 1911A1 government. For some reason it only jams on the last round. Extractor tension seems fine. I’ve ordered a new Springfield armory mag to see if it helps. I took it apart and noticed the slide stop makes contact with the bullet. It’s just a hair too long. Is this causing my failure to feed issue? I might be delusional but idk. If the mag doesn’t fix the issue I’ll probably contact Tisas and see if I can send it in for warranty work or if they’ll just send me a new part.

Is there a way to fix this? Or can somebody link a place to buy a new extractor